My Eswatini Love Affair: How This Tiny Kingdom Captured My Heart (and Camera)
The first time I visited Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) in 2018, I planned to stay for just three days. Seven years and countless visits later, I’m still discovering new corners of this photogenic kingdom that make my Instagram followers ask, “Where IS that place?” My love affair with Eswatini began when I stumbled upon a remote waterfall in Malolotja Nature Reserve—completely alone except for a troop of curious vervet monkeys watching from the trees. As I set up my tripod, the golden afternoon light filtered through the mist, creating what would become my most-liked photo that year. I realized then that Eswatini might be Africa’s best-kept secret for photographers.
Having explored most of southern Africa with my camera in hand, I can confidently say that Eswatini packs more diverse photographic opportunities into its modest borders than countries ten times its size. From the dramatic mountain scenery of the Highveld to the traditional ceremonies that have remained unchanged for centuries, this tiny kingdom between South Africa and Mozambique offers an authentic African experience that’s increasingly rare on the continent.
In this guide, I’ll share my hard-earned knowledge of Eswatini’s most photogenic locations, including the best times to visit, how to get there, and the little-known spots where you can capture images that will stand out in a sea of sameness on social media. I’ve also included practical information about photography permits, cultural sensitivities, and how to interact respectfully with local communities when seeking that perfect shot. So charge your batteries, clear your memory cards, and join me on a photographic journey through Africa’s most underrated destination.
Natural Wonders That Will Break Your Instagram
1. Sibebe Rock: Africa’s Second-Largest Monolith
Just outside Mbabane lies a geological marvel that few international visitors ever see. Sibebe Rock is the second-largest monolith (single stone) in the world after Australia’s Uluru, yet it receives a fraction of the visitors. My tip? Visit at sunrise when the pink-orange light creates dramatic shadows across its weathered surface.
I learned the hard way that the best viewpoint isn’t from the official parking area. Instead, hire a local guide (I recommend Sibebe Adventures, +268 7602 8687) for about 150 emalangeni ($8) who can take you to the eastern face where you’ll capture the most dramatic perspective. The hike takes about 40 minutes and requires decent fitness, but the resulting images are worth every drop of sweat.
“The most magical moment at Sibebe comes when afternoon thunderstorms roll in around January-February. Position yourself safely (not on top!) to capture lightning strikes over the rock face – just be prepared to protect your gear from sudden downpours.” – Personal experience, February 2023
2. Malolotja Nature Reserve: Waterfalls and Alpine Meadows
The highlands of Malolotja Nature Reserve offer a completely different Eswatini than many expect. Think misty mountains, rolling grasslands, and the spectacular Malolotja Falls—a 95m cascade that requires a challenging 11km round-trip hike to reach.
During my last visit in July 2024, I rented one of the self-catering cabins for three nights (2200 emalangeni, about $120 per night) which allowed me to photograph the reserve at first and last light when day visitors are absent. The morning mist rising from the valleys creates ethereal landscapes that seem almost prehistoric.
- Best photo spot: The viewpoint at Logwaja (GPS: 26.0853° S, 31.1076° E) offers a 360° panorama across the reserve that’s particularly stunning at sunset.
- Best time to visit: April-May when the grasslands turn golden
- Photo tip: Bring a polarizing filter to cut through haze and make those cloud-dotted skies pop against the mountains
3. Ngwenya Mine: The World’s Oldest Mine with Modern Views
Dating back over 43,000 years, Ngwenya Mine is not only historically significant but offers some of the most photogenic industrial landscapes in southern Africa. The ochre-colored earth contrasting with the deep blues of the excavated pits creates almost Martian landscapes.
A guided tour costs 180 emalangeni ($10) and lasts about two hours, but I recommend arranging a private early morning tour (350 emalangeni, $19) to catch the dramatic shadows as the sun rises over the quarry. The mine’s curator, Mr. Dlamini, is incredibly knowledgeable and can position you at photo spots not shown to regular visitors if you explain you’re a serious photographer.
After numerous visits, I’ve learned that the mine has different faces throughout the year:
Season | Photographic Highlights | Challenges |
---|---|---|
Rainy season (Nov-Feb) | Dramatic storm clouds, water reflections in pits | Unpredictable weather, access roads can be muddy |
Dry season (May-Sep) | Clear skies, vibrant earth colors, better access | Harsh midday light, dusty conditions |
Transitional (Mar-Apr, Oct) | Green surroundings, moderate weather | Unpredictable lighting conditions |
Cultural Hotspots for Authentic Portraits
4. Mantenga Cultural Village: Beyond the Tourist Show
Mantenga Cultural Village might seem like an obvious tourist spot, but it remains one of the most photogenic places to capture traditional Swati culture. While most visitors only see the scheduled dance performances, I’ve built relationships with the staff over years that allow me to photograph behind the scenes.
The key is to arrive at least an hour before the scheduled shows (11 am and 3:15 pm) and ask permission to observe the performers preparing. This is when you’ll capture authentic moments—dancers applying traditional makeup, practicing moves, or joking with each other—that tell a more genuine story than the performance itself.
Entrance fee is 300 emalangeni ($17) which includes the demonstration, but I’ve found that bringing printed photos from previous visits as gifts opens doors to more intimate photographic opportunities. Sawubona (hello) and ngiyabonga (thank you) go a long way in building rapport with the performers.
“One of my most treasured photos came from Mantenga when a sudden rainstorm interrupted the dance performance. Rather than canceling, the dancers continued in the downpour, their movements creating splashes that caught the afternoon light. Sometimes the unplanned moments create the most authentic images.”
5. Swazi Candles Craft Market: Colorful Artisan Portraits
The colorful creations at Swazi Candles in the Malkerns Valley make for vibrant social media content, but the real photographic gold lies in capturing the artisans at work. The market has become more photographer-friendly since my first visit in 2019, and now most craftspeople welcome cameras—though always ask permission first.
I’ve found that purchasing a small item (prices start around 50 emalangeni, $3) from an artisan before asking to photograph them creates goodwill. The best light filters through the open-sided workshops in mid-morning or late afternoon, creating beautiful directional light that highlights the craftspeople’s hands and their intricate work.
Don’t miss the broader craft market surrounding the candle factory, where weavers, woodcarvers and basket makers create photogenic scenes. This is also one of the few places where I’ve successfully used a 50mm f/1.8 lens to create beautiful portraits with blurred colorful backgrounds of crafts and fabrics.
6. Incwala and Umhlanga (Reed Dance) Ceremonies
Eswatini’s traditional ceremonies offer unparalleled cultural photography opportunities, but they require careful planning and respectful approach. The Incwala (usually in December/January) and Umhlanga Reed Dance (August/September) are the most significant.
My first attempt to photograph these ceremonies in 2019 was nearly disastrous—I arrived unprepared and almost had my camera confiscated. Through that experience, I learned the proper protocols:
- Always request official permission through the Eswatini Tourism Authority at least two months in advance
- Pay the photography fee (currently 500 emalangeni, about $27, for personal social media use)
- Hire a local cultural guide who can explain appropriate behavior and positioning
- Dress conservatively (covered shoulders and knees)
- Never photograph the King without explicit permission
For the Reed Dance, the main ceremony at the royal residence in Ludzidzini is impressive, but I’ve found that the preliminary gatherings in local communities offer more intimate and authentic photography opportunities. Ask your hotel or local contacts about when these happen.
My tip for Incwala is to focus on the preparations in the days leading up to the main ceremony, when warriors gather sacred water and plants. These processions through rural areas offer compelling imagery without the restrictions of the main event.
Wildlife Encounters That Tell a Conservation Story
7. Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary: Up-Close Encounters
Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary might lack predators, but this makes it one of the few places in Africa where you can safely walk or mountain bike among wildlife, creating unique perspectives for your photos. The sanctuary’s relaxed zebras, warthogs, and antelopes allow for close-up shots impossible elsewhere.
I stay at the beehive huts (950 emalangeni, $52 per night) which place you right in the middle of the action—I’ve had zebras grazing outside my door at sunrise, creating frame-worthy silhouettes against the morning mist.
For something truly different, join a guided sunset horse ride through the sanctuary (450 emalangeni, $25). Riding among herds of impala and zebra creates a unique perspective, though it requires some photography skills to shoot while on horseback. I use a camera strap that crosses my body and a lens with image stabilization.
Wildlife photography tip: Mlilwane’s open grasslands provide beautiful backlighting opportunities in early morning and late afternoon. Position yourself with the sun behind your subject for dramatic silhouettes and rim lighting effects that will make your wildlife images stand out.
8. Mkhaya Game Reserve: The Rhino Close-Up
For serious wildlife photographers, Mkhaya Game Reserve offers intimate encounters with both black and white rhinos that would be impossible in larger, more crowded reserves. The stone cottages at Stone Camp (from 2500 emalangeni, $138 per person, including meals and game drives) place you in the middle of the bush with no fences, creating opportunities for unique nighttime wildlife photography.
On my last visit in May 2024, our guide Mnisi positioned our open vehicle perfectly for backlit rhino portraits in the golden hour. The reserve’s limited number of vehicles means you’ll never have other tourists ruining your shot.
The camp’s “no cell phones” policy (they can be used in your room only) creates a truly immersive experience, and I’ve found that the guides are willing to accommodate serious photographers with extended time at sightings if you communicate your needs respectfully.
My insider tip that I learned from a local photographer: Visit during May when the late afternoon light creates a golden glow through the combretum woodland, backlighting the rhinos’ impressive profiles.
9. Hlane Royal National Park: Elephants and Lions
As Eswatini’s largest protected area, Hlane Royal National Park offers classic savanna landscapes and the kingdom’s only lions. The park’s sparse vegetation compared to other African reserves makes wildlife photography more predictable, though still challenging.
The elephants at Ndlovu waterhole provide reliable photo opportunities, especially in the dry winter months (May-September) when large herds gather in late afternoon. I’ve spent entire days at this waterhole and captured incredible interaction sequences between elephants, rhinos, and various antelope species.
While self-driving is permitted in most of the park, the lion enclosure requires a guided tour. These tours tend to visit at predictable times when the lions are least active. My workaround? Book a private guide (850 emalangeni, $47) and specifically request early morning or late afternoon access to the lion area when the cats are more active.
Photography tip: Hlane’s flat landscape makes it ideal for capturing dramatic skies behind your wildlife subjects. Visit during November-February when afternoon thunderstorms create spectacular backdrops for elephant herds.
Off-the-Beaten-Path Gems That Few Photographers Find
10. Mahamba Gorge: Dramatic Landscapes Without Crowds
In the far southwest of Eswatini lies the virtually unknown Mahamba Gorge, a dramatic ravine carved by the Mkhondvo River. I discovered this place by accident in 2021 when a wrong turn led me down a dirt road that ended at one of the most spectacular viewpoints in southern Africa.
The lack of development means you’ll likely have this photographic paradise to yourself. No entrance fees, no fences, just raw natural beauty. I recommend parking at the small church (GPS: 27.0518° S, 31.0671° E) and hiking the informal trail that leads to various viewpoints along the gorge rim.
The best light occurs about two hours before sunset when the lowering sun illuminates the red cliff faces. Bring a wide-angle lens to capture the scope of the gorge, but also a telephoto to isolate interesting rock formations and the river below.
The drive to Mahamba takes about 2.5 hours from Mbabane on progressively rougher roads. The last 12km requires a high-clearance vehicle in the rainy season, though most cars can manage it during the dry months. I made the mistake of visiting after heavy rains and spent two hours digging my rental car out of mud—learn from my mistake and check road conditions before setting out!
11. Nsangwini Rock Art: Ancient Canvases
Hidden in the northeastern mountains near the Mozambique border, the Nsangwini Rock Art site contains some of southern Africa’s most impressive San (Bushmen) paintings dating back thousands of years. The site’s remote location means few photographers have captured these images.
A local community guide is required (150 emalangeni, $8) and well worth it for both their knowledge and the short but steep hike to the site. I visited with a 24-70mm lens thinking it would be sufficient, but quickly realized that a macro lens would have been ideal for detailed shots of the more intricate paintings.
The best time to photograph the rock art is mid-morning when soft light reaches the overhanging rock shelter without creating harsh shadows. I’ve found that a polarizing filter helps reduce glare on the rock surface and brings out the ochre colors of the paintings.
Beyond the rock art itself, the site offers spectacular views across the Komati River valley into Mozambique. On clear days, this creates a perfect landscape composition with ancient art in the foreground and rolling mountains behind.
12. Shewula Mountain Camp: Rural Authenticity
Perched on the eastern escarpment overlooking Mozambique, Shewula Mountain Camp is a community-owned project that offers both stunning landscapes and authentic cultural photography. The camp’s simple rondavels (from 450 emalangeni, $25 per night) provide the base for exploring surrounding homesteads and farmlands.
What makes Shewula special for photographers is the access to everyday rural life that’s becoming increasingly rare to document authentically. Through the camp’s community program, I was invited to photograph traditional food preparation, cattle herding, and daily activities that show Eswatini beyond the tourist facade.
The late afternoon walk to Mutundozi viewpoint rewards photographers with sweeping vistas across the lowveld plains all the way to Mozambique. I found this spot perfect for capturing the transition from golden hour to blue hour, with small village fires beginning to dot the landscape below.
My hard-earned tip: While the camp can arrange formal community visits, I’ve had my best photographic opportunities by spending time in the camp’s kitchen helping prepare meals. This organic interaction led to invitations to photograph aspects of community life that would have been impossible to arrange formally.
Urban and Architectural Photography Spots
13. Mbabane Market: Color and Commerce
The central market in Eswatini’s capital offers a riot of colors, textures and authentic daily life that makes for compelling street photography. Unlike markets in more touristy African destinations, Mbabane’s market remains primarily for locals, creating unposed, authentic scenes.
I’ve found Friday mornings the most photogenic when fresh produce arrives and the market reaches peak activity. The covered sections create challenging lighting conditions, so I typically use a fast prime lens (f/1.8 or wider) and am not afraid to push my ISO to 1600 or higher.
While most vendors are comfortable with photography, especially if you purchase something small, always ask permission for close-up portraits. The phrase “Ngingakutfwebula?” (Can I photograph you?) demonstrates respect and usually receives a positive response.
My biggest mistake on my first visit was bringing too much equipment. The market is crowded and a simple camera setup allows you to move quickly and attract less attention. Now I typically bring just one camera body and a 35mm lens, which provides enough flexibility for both environmental portraits and wider market scenes.
14. House on Fire: Architectural Fantasy
The surreal architecture of House on Fire in the Malkerns Valley has become one of Eswatini’s most recognizable Instagram spots, but timing is everything to get unique shots of this Gaudí-esque venue.
While the property is best known for hosting the annual Bush Fire Festival, it’s accessible year-round. I’ve found that early weekday mornings (before 9am) offer the rare opportunity to photograph the buildings without any people present. The property manager is usually happy to let photographers explore if you explain your purpose.
The melting stone facades capture light differently throughout the day. Morning light highlights the eastern faces with warm tones, while late afternoon creates dramatic shadows across the sculptural elements. Rainy days create interesting reflections in the puddles that form in the amphitheater.
For unusual compositions, look for the small details—faces carved into doorways, surprises hidden in the architecture, and the interplay of natural elements with the built environment. My most popular House on Fire image actually focuses on a tiny stone face partially obscured by a creeping plant, creating a mysterious mood that captures the venue’s unique character.
15. The Rosecraft Weaving Center: Texture and Pattern
Just outside Manzini, Rosecraft offers a feast of colors and patterns for photographers interested in artisanal processes. The center specializes in hand-woven mohair products, and the workshop floor creates stunning visual compositions of threads, looms, and skilled hands.
Unlike some craft centers that restrict photography, Rosecraft welcomes cameras as long as you purchase something small from their shop (items start around 100 emalangeni, $5.50). Their open-sided workshop is perfectly lit with natural light, making it ideal for detail shots of the weaving process.
Visit mid-week when production is in full swing, and try to arrive around 10am when the weavers are fully engaged in their work but the light remains soft. I’ve found that a 50mm or 85mm lens with a wide aperture works perfectly to isolate the intricate details while creating a dreamy bokeh of colors in the background.
Look for compositions that include both the traditional wooden looms and the weavers’ hands—these images tell the full story of craftsmanship that makes Eswatini’s textile tradition so special.
Your Perfect Eswatini Photography Itinerary: Making It Happen
After numerous trips experimenting with different routes, I’ve perfected a 7-day itinerary that maximizes photographic opportunities while minimizing driving time. Eswatini is small enough that you can base yourself in just three locations and still capture all the highlights.
Here’s my tried-and-tested action plan for photographers visiting Eswatini:
- Day 1-2: Mbabane/Ezulwini Valley Base – Photograph Sibebe Rock (morning), Mantenga Cultural Village (afternoon), and sunset at Execution Rock
- Day 3-4: Malkerns Valley Base – Capture Ngwenya Mine (morning), Swazi Candles artisans (mid-day), and afternoon wildlife at Mlilwane
- Day 5-6: Eastern Eswatini Base – Focus on Mkhaya Game Reserve for wildlife and Shewula for cultural/landscape photography
- Day 7: Return Loop – Photograph House on Fire (morning) and Mbabane Market (afternoon) before departure
This route works clockwise around the country, minimizing backtracking and capturing diverse subjects. If you can time your visit during traditional ceremonies, adjust this itinerary accordingly as those should take priority.
My three biggest money-saving tips for photographers in Eswatini:
- Accommodation hack: Rather than staying at the more expensive lodges within reserves, book nearby self-catering accommodations and pay daily entry fees. I saved over 9000 emalangeni ($500) on my last trip using this approach for Hlane Royal National Park.
- Transportation tip: Car rental prices vary dramatically. Book through Swazi operators like Swazi Car Rental rather than international agencies at the airport for savings of up to 40%. My last 7-day rental cost 4850 emalangeni ($265) compared to quotes over $400 from international companies.
- Photography permit bundle: Rather than paying individual photography fees at attractions, contact the Eswatini Tourism Authority ahead of time about their media permit (1700 emalangeni, $93) which covers most major attractions and can save hundreds if you’re visiting multiple sites.
For sustainable photography that benefits local communities:
“I always carry small prints from previous trips to give to people I photograph. These tangible gifts create goodwill and genuine connections that often lead to more authentic photographic opportunities. It’s also much more meaningful than simply tipping with money.”
Frequently Asked Questions About Photography in Eswatini
Is it safe to travel around Eswatini with expensive camera gear?
In my experience, Eswatini is one of the safest countries in southern Africa for photographers. I’ve never encountered issues with camera theft or safety concerns, even when photographing in markets or rural areas. That said, common-sense precautions apply: use a non-descript camera bag, don’t leave equipment visible in parked vehicles, and be aware of your surroundings in busy areas of Mbabane and Manzini.
Do I need permits to photograph in Eswatini?
For personal social media and non-commercial use, no special permits are required at most locations beyond standard entrance fees. However, there are important exceptions: traditional ceremonies require advance permission, and any photography that could be considered commercial (including if you have a large social media following) should be cleared through the Eswatini Tourism Authority. When in doubt, I’ve found it’s always better to ask permission than forgiveness.
What’s the best time of year for photography in Eswatini?
Each season offers distinct photographic opportunities:
- April-May (late autumn): My personal favorite for the golden grasslands, clear skies, and moderate temperatures. The landscape photography is exceptional during this period.
- August-September: Ideal if your primary interest is cultural photography, as this is when the Reed Dance ceremony typically occurs.
- November-February (summer): Dramatic storm clouds and lush green landscapes, though the midday light can be harsh and afternoon thunderstorms may interrupt shooting.
What lenses should I bring to Eswatini?
Based on multiple trips with different equipment, I’ve settled on this ideal kit:
- A 24-70mm f/2.8 as my primary lens (covers landscapes, cultural events, and general photography)
- A 70-200mm f/4 or f/2.8 for wildlife and portraits with compressed backgrounds
- A fast prime lens (35mm or 50mm f/1.8) for low-light situations in markets and indoor settings
- Optional: A wide-angle lens (16-35mm) for landscape work, especially at Sibebe Rock and in the game reserves
I initially made the mistake of bringing too much equipment. Eswatini’s relaxed pace and accessible wildlife mean you rarely need extreme telephoto lenses (unlike in larger game reserves elsewhere in Africa).
How do I respectfully photograph local people?
Cultural sensitivity is essential in Eswatini. I follow these guidelines:
- Always ask permission before photographing individuals, using the local greeting “Sawubona” to establish respect
- Offer to send or give prints when possible (I bring a portable printer on longer trips)
- Avoid photographing anyone who appears uncomfortable
- At traditional ceremonies, follow all official guidelines and never interfere with proceedings
- Learn a few phrases in siSwati—this simple effort transforms how locals perceive you and often leads to better photographic access
What about drone photography in Eswatini?
Drone regulations in Eswatini have tightened considerably since 2022. Currently, you need advance permission from the Eswatini Civil Aviation Authority, which requires application at least 14 days before arrival. The application fee is 500 emalangeni ($27) with an additional daily operating fee. I learned this the hard way when my drone was temporarily confiscated at Hlane in 2023. Even with permits, drones are prohibited near the King’s residences, over wildlife in national parks, and near border areas.
References and Further Resources
- Official Eswatini Tourism Website – Comprehensive information on attractions and events
- Big Game Parks of Eswatini – Details on Mlilwane, Hlane and Mkhaya reserves
- Lonely Planet: Eswatini – Good background information for planning
- Instagram: #EswatiniPhotography – Current images from photographers in the country
- Africa Geographic: Photography Tips for Eswatini – Specialized advice for wildlife photography
- Safari Bookings: Eswatini Photo Safaris – Information on guided photography tours
- Shewula Mountain Camp – Community tourism project in eastern Eswatini
- House on Fire – Official site with event calendar
- TripAdvisor: Eswatini Attractions – Visitor reviews and ratings
- UK Government Travel Advice: Eswatini – Current safety information
- World Nomads: Eswatini Safety Guide – Practical safety tips for travelers
- Malolotja Nature Reserve – Information on hiking trails and accommodation