Did you know that Eritrea is home to over 360 islands, most of which remain uninhabited? This little-known fact is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the wonders of this fascinating East African country. As a seasoned traveler, I've explored countless destinations, but nothing quite compares to the raw beauty and rich culture of Eritrea. In this guide, I'll take you on a journey through the perfect 2-week itinerary that'll have you falling head over heels for this hidden gem. Get ready for an adventure of a lifetime!
Week 1: Exploring Asmara and the Surrounding Highlands
Day 1-3: Discover the UNESCO-listed capital, Asmara
When I first set foot in Asmara, I was immediately struck by its unique charm. The city's Art Deco architecture, a remnant of Italian colonial rule, transported me to a different era. I spent my first morning sipping a macchiato at Bar Vittoria, a local favorite that's been around since the 1930s.
As I wandered through the streets, I couldn't help but marvel at the well-preserved buildings. The Fiat Tagliero building, shaped like an airplane, caught my eye. It's a prime example of Futurist architecture and a must-see for any visitor.
On my second day, I visited the Asmara Cathedral, a stunning Romanesque-style church that dominates the city skyline. The intricate details of its facade left me in awe. Later, I explored the bustling Medeber market, where skilled artisans create beautiful objects from recycled materials.
My third day was dedicated to the Cinema Impero, a classic movie theater that's been beautifully maintained since the 1930s. I caught a screening of an old Italian film, which felt like stepping back in time. The day ended with a visit to the Tank Graveyard, a haunting reminder of Eritrea's struggle for independence.
Day 4: Visit the ancient monastery of Debre Bizen
Leaving Asmara behind, I embarked on a journey to Debre Bizen monastery. The drive itself was an adventure, winding through breathtaking mountain scenery. As we ascended, the air grew cooler and the views more spectacular.
Arriving at the monastery, perched atop a 2,450-meter peak, I was struck by its isolation. The ancient structure, dating back to the 1350s, seemed to touch the sky. I was fortunate to meet one of the monks, who shared fascinating stories about the monastery's history and the religious life there.
The highlight of my visit was undoubtedly the library. Housing centuries-old manuscripts and religious texts, it felt like stepping into a treasure trove of knowledge. As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the landscape, I knew this was an experience I'd never forget.
Day 5: Explore the picturesque town of Keren
Keren, nestled in a bowl-shaped valley, greeted me with its laid-back atmosphere and friendly locals. My first stop was the vibrant Monday market, where I mingled with Bilen and Tigre people in their colorful traditional dress. The aroma of spices and the chatter of haggling filled the air.
I then made my way to the British and Italian War Cemeteries. These serene places of remembrance offered a poignant reminder of Eritrea's complex history. As I walked among the graves, I reflected on the human cost of conflict.
In the afternoon, I visited the Mariam Dearit Shrine, a unique chapel built into the roots of an ancient baobab tree. The sight of this natural sanctuary left me in awe of human ingenuity and spiritual devotion. As the day drew to a close, I climbed to the remains of the old Egyptian fort for a panoramic view of Keren bathed in the warm light of sunset.
Day 6-7: Hike through the Semenawi Bahri National Park
The Semenawi Bahri National Park, often called the "Green Belt" of Eritrea, was a nature lover's paradise. I started my two-day trek early, accompanied by a knowledgeable local guide. The cool mountain air was invigorating as we set off on the trail.
As we hiked, the landscape transformed from lush forests to grassy plateaus. My guide pointed out various endemic plant species, including the rare Eritrean aloe. We were lucky enough to spot a troop of hamadryas baboons, their distinctive manes catching the sunlight.
On the second day, we reached higher elevations, and the views were simply breathtaking. Rolling hills stretched as far as the eye could see, dotted with traditional villages. We stopped at one such village for lunch, where I had the chance to interact with the friendly Bilen people and learn about their way of life.
The highlight of the trek was reaching a hidden waterfall. The sound of cascading water and the spray on my face was a welcome respite after the long hike. As we made our way back, I felt a deep connection to this unspoiled wilderness and a newfound appreciation for Eritrea's natural beauty.
Week 2: Coastal Adventures and Historical Sites
Day 8-9: Relax on the beaches of Massawa
After the mountainous terrain of the first week, arriving in Massawa felt like entering a different world. The heat and humidity hit me as soon as I stepped off the bus, but the sight of the sparkling Red Sea made it all worthwhile.
I spent my first day exploring the old town of Massawa. The Ottoman and Egyptian architectural influences were evident in the coral-block buildings and intricate archways. The ruins of the Imperial Palace, damaged during the war for independence, were a sobering reminder of the city's tumultuous past.
The next day was all about beach relaxation. I headed to Gurgusum Beach, a stretch of pristine white sand fringed by turquoise waters. The gentle lapping of waves and the warmth of the sun on my skin were the perfect antidote to the previous week's activities. I tried my hand at snorkeling, marveling at the colorful fish darting among the coral reefs.
As the sun began to set, I made my way to the fish market. Here, I selected the catch of the day and had it grilled to perfection at a nearby restaurant. The taste of fresh seafood, enjoyed with views of fishing boats returning to harbor, was unforgettable.
Day 10: Dive into the Red Sea at the Dahlak Archipelago
Excitement coursed through me as I boarded the boat to the Dahlak Archipelago. This group of over 200 islands is renowned for its pristine marine environment and rich history. As we sailed, our guide regaled us with tales of pearl divers and ancient trade routes.
Upon reaching one of the larger islands, I was struck by its otherworldly beauty. The white sand beaches were dotted with mangroves, and flamingos waded in the shallows. But the real magic lay beneath the waves.
Donning my scuba gear, I plunged into the crystal-clear waters. The underwater world that greeted me was nothing short of spectacular. Vibrant coral gardens teemed with life – parrotfish, angelfish, and even a sea turtle glided past. The highlight was exploring a sunken Italian warship, now an artificial reef home to a myriad of marine species.
Back on the boat, we enjoyed a lunch of grilled fish and fresh fruit. As we sailed back to Massawa, I felt a profound sense of privilege at having experienced this unspoiled marine paradise.
Day 11-12: Explore the ancient port city of Adulis
The journey to Adulis took me through a stark, desert landscape. As we approached the site, I could hardly believe that this barren area once hosted a thriving port city. Adulis, dating back to the 2nd century BC, was a key player in the maritime trade between Rome and India.
Accompanied by an archaeologist, I spent the first day exploring the extensive ruins. The foundations of ancient buildings, remnants of a grand cathedral, and fragments of intricate mosaics painted a picture of a once-prosperous metropolis. Learning about the advanced water management systems and the cosmopolitan nature of Adulis's population gave me a new appreciation for ancient engineering and cultural exchange.
On the second day, we visited the small on-site museum. Here, I marveled at artifacts recovered from the site – everything from delicate glassware to coins bearing the faces of long-forgotten rulers. The highlight was a beautifully preserved ivory chair, a testament to the skilled craftsmanship of the Aksumite period.
As the sun set on Adulis, casting long shadows across the ruins, I couldn't help but feel a connection to the countless traders, sailors, and residents who had walked these streets over two millennia ago.
Day 13: Visit the rock-hewn churches of Qohaito
The journey to Qohaito was an adventure in itself, winding through rugged mountain roads with breathtaking views at every turn. As we climbed higher, the landscape became increasingly dramatic, with sheer cliffs and deep valleys.
Arriving at the Qohaito archaeological site, I was immediately struck by its remoteness. This ancient city, perched on a high plateau, was once a thriving center of the Aksumite kingdom. Walking among the ruins, I tried to imagine the bustling streets and grand buildings that once stood here.
But the true marvels of Qohaito are its rock-hewn churches. As I descended into the first church, carved entirely from solid rock, I was awestruck by the skill and devotion of its creators. The cool, dim interior was a stark contrast to the bright sunshine outside. Ancient frescoes, though faded, still adorned the walls, telling biblical stories in vibrant colors.
The highlight of my visit was the church of Enda Abuna Gabra Mikael. Perched precariously on the edge of a cliff, it offered stunning views of the surrounding landscape. Inside, the intricate carvings and sense of spiritual tranquility left a lasting impression.
As the day drew to a close, I sat on the edge of the plateau, watching the sun set over the vast Eritrean highlands. The play of light and shadow on the ancient ruins and dramatic landscape created a scene of unparalleled beauty.
Day 14: Return to Asmara for final sightseeing and departure
My last day in Eritrea found me back in Asmara, determined to soak up every last bit of the city's unique atmosphere. I started early with a visit to the bustling Mercato, the city's largest open-air market. The vibrant colors, enticing aromas, and cheerful chatter of vendors and shoppers was a feast for the senses.
Next, I took a ride on the Asmara-Massawa railway, a historic narrow-gauge line that offers spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. The vintage carriages and the rhythmic clickety-clack of the rails transported me back to a bygone era of travel.
In the afternoon, I visited the National Museum of Eritrea. The exhibits on Eritrea's long struggle for independence were particularly moving, offering insights into the resilience and determination of the Eritrean people.
As the day drew to a close, I found myself back at Bar Vittoria, where my Eritrean adventure had begun two weeks ago. Sipping my final macchiato, I reflected on the incredible experiences, the warm hospitality of the Eritrean people, and the country's rich cultural tapestry. As I prepared for my departure, I knew that Eritrea had left an indelible mark on my heart.
Essential Tips for Your Eritrean Adventure
Best time to visit Eritrea
From my experience, the best time to visit Eritrea is during the dry season, which runs from November to March. I found the weather during these months to be particularly pleasant, with warm days and cool nights. This is especially true in the highlands, where Asmara is located.
I'd recommend avoiding the rainy season, which typically occurs from June to September. During this time, some roads can become impassable, particularly in rural areas. If you're planning to visit the coastal regions like Massawa, keep in mind that it can be extremely hot and humid year-round.
December and January are great months for cultural experiences, as many festivals and celebrations take place during this time. I was lucky enough to witness the colorful Geez New Year celebrations in September, which was a truly unforgettable experience.
Visa requirements and travel permits
Obtaining a visa for Eritrea requires some advance planning. I applied for my visa at the Eritrean embassy in my home country several weeks before my trip. The process was straightforward, but it did take some time, so I'd advise starting early.
Once in Eritrea, you'll need travel permits to visit areas outside of Asmara. I arranged these through my hotel in Asmara, and it took about 24 hours to process. It's important to note that these permits are specific to the areas you plan to visit, so have a clear itinerary in mind.
Remember to always carry your passport and travel permit with you. I was asked to present them at various checkpoints throughout my journey, especially when traveling between different regions of the country.
Transportation options within the country
Getting around Eritrea can be an adventure in itself. In Asmara, I found the local buses to be an affordable and authentic way to explore the city. For longer journeys, I mostly used shared taxis or private hire vehicles, which can be arranged through your hotel or a local travel agency.
The roads outside of Asmara can be challenging, especially in rural areas. For my trip to Qohaito, I hired a 4×4 vehicle with a driver, which was essential for navigating the rugged terrain.
I also had the opportunity to experience the historic Asmara-Massawa railway. While it doesn't run regularly, it's worth inquiring about if you're interested in a unique travel experience.
For visits to the Dahlak Archipelago, boat trips can be arranged in Massawa. Just be sure to book with a reputable operator and check that they have proper safety equipment.
Cultural etiquette and customs to observe
Eritrean culture is generally conservative, and it's important to respect local customs. I found dressing modestly to be crucial, especially when visiting religious sites. For women, this means covering shoulders and knees, and for men, avoiding shorts in most situations.
When entering someone's home or a restaurant, it's customary to remove your shoes. I always made sure to wait for my host's cue on this.
During meals, I learned to eat only with my right hand, as the left hand is considered unclean. Also, it's polite to accept at least a small amount of food or drink when offered, even if you're not hungry.
Photography can be a sensitive issue. I always asked permission before taking photos of people or buildings, especially government buildings or military installations.
Lastly, I found that learning a few basic phrases in Tigrinya, the most widely spoken language, went a long way in building rapport with locals.
Recommended accommodations for each destination
In Asmara, I stayed at the historic Albergo Italia, which offered a unique blend of colonial charm and modern comforts. For those on a tighter budget, the Central Hotel provides clean, basic accommodations in a central location.
In Keren, I found the Sarina Hotel to be comfortable and conveniently located. It's one of the few hotels in town with reliable hot water and electricity.
For my stay in Massawa, I chose the Grand Dahlak Hotel. While it's showing its age in some areas, the seafront location and spacious rooms made it a pleasant base for exploring the coast.
In more remote areas like Qohaito, accommodation options are limited. I stayed in a basic guesthouse arranged by my tour operator. While the amenities were sparse, the warm hospitality more than made up for it.
Remember that hotel standards in Eritrea may differ from what you're used to. I found it helpful to pack a few creature comforts, like a travel pillow and a portable battery pack, to ensure a comfortable stay regardless of the accommodation.
Must-Try Eritrean Cuisine During Your Trip
Traditional Eritrean coffee ceremony
One of my most cherished memories from Eritrea is participating in a traditional coffee ceremony. This isn't just about drinking coffee; it's a social ritual that can last for hours. I was invited to one by a local family I'd befriended in Asmara, and it was a truly immersive cultural experience.
The ceremony begins with the roasting of green coffee beans over hot coals. The aromatic smoke is wafted around the room for everyone to appreciate. The beans are then ground and brewed in a special pot called a jebena. The coffee is served in small cups called finjal, and it's customary to drink at least three cups.
What struck me most was the sense of community and unhurried pace of the ceremony. It's a time for conversation, reflection, and bonding. The coffee itself was unlike any I'd tasted before – rich, strong, and often flavored with spices like cardamom or cinnamon.
Injera with various meat and vegetable stews
Injera, a spongy sourdough flatbread, forms the basis of most Eritrean meals. My first encounter with injera was at a local restaurant in Asmara, and I was fascinated by its unique texture and slightly tangy taste. It's used not just as food, but also as a utensil to scoop up the various stews and vegetables served with it.
One of my favorite dishes was zigni, a spicy beef stew flavored with berbere, a complex spice blend. For vegetarians, I'd highly recommend the shiro, a hearty stew made from ground chickpeas or fava beans. The timtimo, a lentil stew, was another standout for me.
What I loved about Eritrean cuisine was the communal aspect of dining. Meals are typically served on a large platter covered with injera, with various stews and vegetables arranged on top. Everyone eats from the same platter, using pieces of injera to scoop up the food. It's a wonderfully social way of eating that encourages conversation and sharing.
Seafood specialties in coastal areas
When I reached Massawa, I was excited to try the seafood for which the coastal regions are famous. The Red Sea offers a bounty of fresh fish and shellfish, and Eritrean chefs know exactly how to make the most of these ingredients.
One dish that stood out was asa kulwha, a spicy fish stew that's popular in Massawa. The fish, usually snapper or grouper, is cooked with tomatoes, onions, and a blend of spices that give it a distinctive flavor. I enjoyed this with a side of rice flavored with cardamom and cinnamon.
Another memorable meal was a mixed seafood platter I had at a beachside restaurant. It included grilled lobster, prawns, and calamari, all caught that morning. The simplicity of the preparation allowed the freshness of the seafood to shine through.
For a quick snack, I often opted for sambussa, a triangular pastry filled with spiced fish. These crispy treats were perfect for satisfying hunger pangs between meals.
Local beverages to sample
While coffee is undoubtedly the most famous Eritrean beverage, there are several other drinks worth trying. Suwa, a home-brewed beer made from roasted corn, barley, and gesho (a type of buckthorn), was an interesting discovery. It has a slightly sour taste and is often served at social gatherings and celebrations.
For non-alcoholic options, I enjoyed tej, a sweet honey wine that's popular throughout Eritrea and neighboring Ethiopia. It's traditionally served in a berele, a glass vessel with a narrow neck.
In the coastal areas, I often quenched my thirst with fresh fruit juices. The avocado juice, blended with milk and sugar, was a particular favorite of mine. It's rich, creamy, and incredibly refreshing in the hot coastal climate.
Lastly, don't miss out on trying karkade, a vibrant red hibiscus tea that can be served hot or cold. I found it to be a perfect afternoon refresher, especially when sweetened with a touch of honey.
Packing Essentials for Your 2-Week Eritrean Journey
Appropriate clothing for different climates and cultural norms
Packing for Eritrea requires careful consideration of both climate and cultural norms. In Asmara and the highlands, I found the weather to be pleasantly warm during the day but quite cool at night. I was glad I packed layers – light cotton shirts and pants for daytime, and a warm fleece or light jacket for evenings.
For the coastal areas like Massawa, lightweight, breathable clothing is essential. I packed loose-fitting cotton shirts and pants, which helped me stay cool in the humid climate. A wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses were also lifesavers under the intense coastal sun.
When it comes to cultural norms, modesty is key. For women, I'd recommend packing long skirts or dresses that cover the knees, and shirts that cover the shoulders. Men should avoid shorts in most situations, opting instead for long trousers.
For visits to religious sites, I made sure to pack a scarf to cover my head. It's also a good idea to bring a pair of slip-on shoes, as you'll often need to remove them when entering homes or certain buildings.
Essential travel gear and gadgets
A good quality daypack was indispensable for my daily excursions. I used it to carry water, snacks, and my camera. Speaking of water, a reusable water bottle is a must. While bottled water is available in most places, having your own bottle helps reduce plastic waste.
I found my portable power bank to be incredibly useful, especially in areas where electricity can be unreliable. It kept my phone and camera charged throughout the trip.
A headlamp or small flashlight came in handy during power outages and for exploring dimly lit historical sites. I also packed a basic first-aid kit, which thankfully I didn't need to use much, but it provided peace of mind.
For capturing memories, I brought both a DSLR camera and my smartphone. The DSLR was great for high-quality shots, while my phone was convenient for quick snaps and navigating with offline maps.
Lastly, I'd recommend bringing a small notebook and pen. I used mine to jot down phrases in Tigrinya, record my experiences, and even to communicate when language was a barrier.
Health and safety items to bring
While Eritrea is generally a safe country to visit, it's important to be prepared for any health issues that may arise. I made sure to pack a good supply of any prescription medications I needed, along with a copy of the prescription.
Sunscreen with a high SPF is crucial, especially for the coastal areas. I also brought insect repellent, which was particularly useful in the evenings and in rural areas.
To avoid traveler's diarrhea, I packed some over-the-counter medication like Imodium, as well as oral rehydration salts. A small bottle of hand sanitizer and some wet wipes were also useful for maintaining hygiene on the go.
For those prone to motion sickness, I'd recommend bringing some medication. The winding mountain roads can be challenging, especially on the journey to places like Qohaito.
Lastly, while it's not strictly a health item, I found my travel insurance to be an essential safety net. It provided peace of mind knowing I was covered for any medical emergencies or travel disruptions.
Remember, while it's important to be prepared, don't let concerns overshadow the excitement of your trip. Eritrea is a wonderful country to explore, and with the right preparation, you're set for an unforgettable adventure.
Conclusion
As we wrap up our ultimate 2-week itinerary for Eritrea, I can’t help but feel a sense of excitement for the adventure that awaits you. From the stunning architecture of Asmara to the pristine beaches of the Red Sea coast, Eritrea offers a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty that’s sure to leave you spellbound. So pack your bags, embrace the unknown, and get ready to create memories that’ll last a lifetime in this enchanting East African nation. Trust me, your 2 weeks in Eritrea will be an experience you’ll cherish forever!