Introduction: Why Comoros Should Be Your Next African Adventure
The first time I stepped off the plane at Prince Said Ibrahim International Airport (HAH) in Moroni, I was hit by the intoxicating blend of ylang-ylang, cloves, and salt air that defines the Comoros Islands. Five visits later, I still feel that same flutter of excitement as the archipelago comes into view from my airplane window. These volcanic islands tucked between Madagascar and the African mainland have stolen my heart in ways I never expected.
In 2019, I made a rookie mistake that nearly derailed my entire trip—showing up without enough cash and discovering ATMs were scarce and often non-functional. I spent my first night rationing my euros while frantically messaging friends back home. That experience alone taught me more about traveling in Comoros than any guidebook ever could.
This cheat sheet distills everything I’ve learned across my journeys through Grande Comore, Mohéli, and Anjouan—from navigating the complex ferry systems to understanding the unique blend of African, Arabic, and French influences that shape Comorian culture. Whether you’re planning a beach getaway, a hiking adventure up Mount Karthala, or simply seeking an authentic experience in one of Africa’s least-visited destinations, I’ve got you covered.
Essential Planning: When to Go and What to Expect
Comoros experiences two distinct seasons that dramatically affect your travel experience. I’ve visited during both and can offer firsthand insights into the pros and cons of each.
Climate and Best Time to Visit
- Dry Season (May to October): My personal favorite time to visit. Temperature ranges from 24-28°C with minimal rainfall. Perfect for hiking Mount Karthala and beach activities.
- Rainy Season (November to April): Humidity soars to 85% with frequent heavy downpours. However, accommodation prices drop by roughly 30%, and the landscapes explode with vibrant greens.
Pro Tip: If you’re planning to climb Mount Karthala, schedule your trip during the dry season. I attempted the climb during a November visit and had to turn back due to dangerously slippery conditions that local guides warned against.
Visa and Entry Requirements (Updated for 2025)
As of 2025, most travelers need to obtain a visa upon arrival at Moroni’s Prince Said Ibrahim International Airport. The visa process has significantly improved since my first visit, but still requires preparation:
- Visa cost: 30€ for stays up to 45 days (bring exact change in euros)
- Required documents: Passport valid for 6 months, return ticket, accommodation details
- Yellow fever vaccination certificate (strictly enforced since 2023)
The immigration officials at HAH airport now accept credit card payments, but during my 2024 visit, the card machine was offline for two days straight. Always bring cash as backup.
Budget Planning
Expense Category | Budget (€/day) | Mid-range (€/day) | Luxury (€/day) |
---|---|---|---|
Accommodation | 15-25€ | 40-60€ | 80-150€ |
Meals | 10-15€ | 20-30€ | 40-60€ |
Transportation | 5-10€ | 15-25€ | 40-80€ |
Activities | 0-15€ | 20-40€ | 50-100€ |
Insider Saving Tip #1: The local currency is the Comorian Franc (KMF), but euros are widely accepted. I’ve found that exchanging euros for KMF at the small exchange offices in Moroni’s main market offers rates about 8% better than at hotels or the airport.
Island Breakdown: Navigating the Comoros Archipelago
Each of Comoros’ three main islands has its own distinct character. Understanding their differences is crucial for planning your itinerary.
Grande Comore (Ngazidja)
Home to the capital Moroni and Mount Karthala, Grande Comore is your likely entry point and the most developed island.
Must-See Locations:
- Moroni Old Town: Get lost in the narrow alleyways and admire the intricately carved wooden doors. The scent of grilled fish and fresh bread from small bakeries creates an unforgettable sensory experience. View on Google Maps
- Mount Karthala: The hike to this active volcano takes 2 days round-trip. Budget approximately 80€ for a guide (mandatory since 2023). I still remember the absolute silence at the crater rim, broken only by the occasional rumble from deep below. View on Google Maps
- Chomoni Beach: My favorite secluded beach on the eastern coast with pristine black volcanic sand. Unlike the touristy beaches near Moroni, you’ll often have it to yourself. View on Google Maps
Local Phrase: When greeting locals, say “Bariza” (Hello) with your right hand over your heart to show respect. This small gesture earned me countless smiles and often led to wonderful conversations with locals who appreciated the effort.
Mohéli (Mwali)
The smallest and least developed of the main islands, Mohéli is a paradise for ecotourism and marine wildlife.
Why Visit Mohéli:
- Mohéli Marine Park: Home to nesting sea turtles (peak season July-October). The 5€ entrance fee goes directly to conservation efforts. View on Google Maps
- Itsamia Village: Center of turtle conservation. Stay at the community-run Laka Lodge (40€/night) where local guides can take you to witness turtles nesting by moonlight.
- Livingstone Bat Reserve: Home to endemic Livingstone fruit bats with wingspans reaching 1.4 meters. The sound of thousands of wings flapping at dusk is something I’ll never forget.
Insider Saving Tip #2: When traveling to Mohéli, book your ferry ticket directly at the port in Moroni rather than through hotels or agencies. You’ll save about 15€ and can negotiate in KMF rather than euros, saving another 5-10%.
Anjouan (Ndzuwani)
Known as “The Pearl of Comoros,” Anjouan features dramatic mountains, cascading waterfalls, and the most fertile agricultural land.
Highlights of Anjouan:
- Mutsamudu Old Town: The island’s capital with a fascinating citadel (Ujumbwe) and vibrant market. The narrow streets buzz with the sounds of craftsmen hammering silver jewelry and the calls of spice merchants. View on Google Maps
- Lac Salé: A mysterious saltwater lake connected to the ocean through underground tunnels. Local legend says it’s home to spirits—respectful behavior is expected. View on Google Maps
- Moya Beach: The finest white sand beach in Comoros. The contrast between the turquoise water and the emerald-green mountains behind is breathtaking.
Travel Mistake: During my 2022 visit, I attempted to photograph the Friday prayers at Mutsamudu’s Grand Mosque without permission. This caused significant offense. Always ask permission before photographing religious sites or ceremonies, and women should dress modestly (covering shoulders and knees).
Getting Around: Transportation Hacks for the Comoros
Inter-Island Travel
Moving between islands requires planning and flexibility:
- Domestic Flights: AB Aviation and Int’Air Îles offer flights between islands (60-90€ one-way). Book at least 3 days in advance during high season.
- Ferry Services: The more affordable option (20-30€ one-way) but schedules change frequently. The SGTM ferry is the most reliable option.
- Speedboats: For the adventurous traveler, local speedboats (kwassa-kwassa) offer the cheapest option (10-15€) but come with significant safety concerns. I’ve used them twice but wouldn’t recommend them during rough sea conditions.
Local Phrase: If ferry schedules change, you’ll often hear “Mwé yazimu” (“I understand”) from resigned locals. Learning to say this with a smile helped me adapt to the fluid nature of transportation in Comoros.
On-Island Transportation
Transport Type | Cost Range | Pros | Cons |
---|---|---|---|
Shared Taxi (“Taxi-Brousse”) | 500-1000 KMF (~1-2€) per trip | Affordable, frequents main routes | Crowded, only follows set routes |
Private Taxi | 5000-7500 KMF (~10-15€) per hour | Convenient, can wait for you | Expensive, negotiate price beforehand |
Motorbike Rental | 15,000 KMF (~30€) per day | Freedom to explore, good for rural areas | Roads can be hazardous, no insurance |
Car Rental with Driver | 40,000-50,000 KMF (~80-100€) per day | Comfortable, local knowledge included | Expensive for solo travelers |
Insider Saving Tip #3: Download the offline maps of each island on Google Maps before arrival. Data service is spotty, and having offline navigation saved me countless times, especially when hiring taxis where I could verify we were taking the most direct route.
Cultural Insights: Navigating Comorian Customs and Etiquette
The Comoros culture blends African, Arab, and French influences. Understanding local customs will significantly enhance your experience and help you avoid unintentional offense.
Religious Considerations
Comoros is a conservative Sunni Muslim country where religious practices shape daily life:
- Dress modestly: Both men and women should cover shoulders and knees. Women don’t need to wear headscarves but should carry a light scarf for visiting mosques.
- Ramadan: During this holy month, eating and drinking in public during daylight hours is disrespectful. Many restaurants close during the day, so plan accordingly.
- Prayer times: Business and transport often pause briefly during the five daily prayer times.
Travel Mistake: During my first visit, I arranged a boat tour during Friday prayers (around 1 pm). Not only was it impossible to find a captain willing to take me, but my persistence in asking caused discomfort. Now I always plan leisure activities around prayer times, especially on Fridays.
Social Etiquette
Small courtesies go a long way in Comoros:
- Greetings are important and often lengthy. Always shake hands (right hand only) and inquire about someone’s well-being before discussing business.
- Photography: Always ask permission before photographing people, especially women and children.
- Dining: Eat with your right hand if invited to a traditional meal. Leaving a small amount of food shows you were satisfied.
Local Phrase: Saying “Marahaba” (thank you) with your hand over your heart shows sincere appreciation. When a local shopkeeper in Anjouan gave me extra bananas after hearing me use this phrase, I realized how much locals appreciate visitors making an effort with their language.
The Grand Marriage Tradition
If you’re lucky, you might witness a Grand Marriage (Ndola Nkuu)—an elaborate multi-day celebration that can cost a family years of savings. Being invited to even a portion of these celebrations provides a fascinating window into Comorian society and hierarchy.
I was fortunate to attend a Grand Marriage ceremony in Mitsamiouli (northern Grande Comore) during my 2023 visit. The explosion of colors, intricate dance performances, and generous hospitality shown to me as a foreign guest was unlike anything I’ve experienced elsewhere in Africa.
Food and Dining: A Taste of Comoros
Comorian cuisine blends African staples with Arabic and French influences, all enhanced by the islands’ incredible spices.
Must-Try Dishes
- Langouste à la Vanille: Lobster simmered in vanilla sauce. Best tried at Le Coelacanthe Restaurant in Moroni (25€).
- Mataba: Cassava leaves stewed with coconut milk and either fish or meat. The subtle bitterness of the leaves is perfectly balanced by the rich coconut. Found everywhere for about 3-5€.
- Poulet au Coco: Chicken slow-cooked in coconut sauce with local spices. The tangy aroma fills the streets of Moroni in the evenings.
- Mkatra Foutra: Fried bread often served for breakfast. Perfect with honey and Comorian coffee.
For the adventurous eater, try N’tsambu (octopus in coconut curry) at the waterfront stalls in Mutsamudu, Anjouan. The slight chewiness of perfectly cooked octopus combined with the rich curry makes this my personal favorite.
Sustainability Tip: Bring a reusable water bottle with a built-in filter. Bottled water costs 1-2€ throughout the islands, and plastic waste is a growing problem. Using a filtration bottle saved me approximately 60€ over a three-week trip while reducing plastic waste.
Where to Eat
Grande Comore:
- Le Coraya (Moroni): Upscale restaurant with excellent seafood and ocean views. Budget 20-30€ per person.
- Marché Volo-Volo (Moroni): The central market with food stalls serving affordable local dishes. Try the grilled fish for 5€. View on Google Maps
Mohéli:
- Laka Lodge Restaurant: The best dining option on the island, serving fresh seafood caught daily. Their grilled tuna with local spices (12€) is outstanding.
- Itsamia Village stalls: Simple, home-cooked meals for 3-5€. The coconut rice with local vegetables is particularly delicious.
Anjouan:
- Al-Amal (Mutsamudu): Popular with locals for traditional Comorian dishes. Budget 5-8€ per meal. View on Google Maps
- Waterfront fish market (Mutsamudu): Choose your fresh catch and have it grilled on the spot for 4-6€.
Travel Mistake: I once ordered an expensive lobster dish at a tourist restaurant in Moroni, only to learn later that the same restaurant had a “local menu” with similar dishes at half the price. Always ask if there’s a local menu or daily special not shown on the main menu.
Accommodation Guide: Where to Stay in Comoros
Accommodation in Comoros ranges from basic guesthouses to a handful of luxury options. Book in advance during high season (July-August) and for the more limited options on Mohéli and Anjouan.
Grande Comore
Budget Options:
- Le Jardin de la Paix (Moroni): Simple rooms from 25€/night. The lush garden and helpful owner Mariama make this my go-to budget option.
- Auberge d’Itsandra: Basic but clean rooms for 20€/night near Itsandra Beach.
Mid-range:
- Retaj Moroni Hotel: Modern facilities with pool access from 80€/night. Their breakfast with fresh tropical fruits is excellent.
- Golden Tulip Grande Comore: Beachfront property with comfortable rooms from 90€/night.
Mohéli
- Laka Lodge: Eco-friendly bungalows from 40-60€/night. Their beach location and conservation focus make this my favorite stay in all of Comoros.
- Chindini Beach Lodge: Simple beachfront huts for 25€/night. The sound of waves breaking just meters from your bed is magical.
Anjouan
- Al-Amal Hotel (Mutsamudu): Central location with basic rooms from 30€/night.
- Hotel Moya Plage: Beachfront property with stunning views from 45€/night.
Booking Tip: Most smaller accommodations don’t use online booking platforms. Email or call directly and confirm with a WhatsApp message. Ask about airport/port pickup services, as finding some properties can be challenging for first-time visitors.
Insider Saving Tip: For stays longer than three nights, always negotiate the rate directly with the property owner. I’ve consistently secured 15-20% discounts, especially during low season (November-April).
Unique Experiences: Beyond the Guidebooks
Some of my most memorable moments in Comoros came from experiences you won’t find in standard travel guides.
Wildlife Encounters
- Coelacanth Watching: Grande Comore is one of the few places where you might glimpse the “living fossil” fish thought extinct until discovered here. Arrange through the Comorian Scientific Research Center in Moroni.
- Livingstone Fruit Bat Colony (Mohéli): These massive bats with 1.4-meter wingspans are best observed at dusk near Nioumachoua village.
- Turtle Hatching (Itsamia, Mohéli): Between July and October, witness baby turtles making their first journey to the sea. The conservation guides ensure responsible viewing for 10€.
Watching dozens of turtle hatchlings scramble towards the ocean under the moonlight near Itsamia remains one of the most profound wildlife experiences I’ve ever had. The guides’ passionate explanation of their decades-long conservation efforts added an educational dimension that made the experience even more meaningful.
Cultural Immersion
- Ylang-Ylang Distillery Tours: Visit small-scale distilleries in Bambao (Anjouan) to see how this essential perfume ingredient is produced. The sweet, heady scent permeates everything.
- Traditional Dance Performances: The Mbiwi dance in Grande Comore and Anjouan combines Arabic and African influences. Ask at your accommodation about local performances.
- Medina Exploration: Hire a local student as a guide (about 10€) to explore Moroni’s or Mutsamudu’s ancient medinas, revealing hidden architectural gems and historical stories.
Outdoor Adventures
- Mount Karthala Climb (Grande Comore): This 2,361-meter active volcano offers challenging hiking with otherworldly landscapes. The 2-day guided trek costs approximately 80€.
- Dziani Boundouni Crater Lake (Mohéli): A moderate 3-hour hike leads to this stunning emerald-green lake.
- Snorkeling at Chomoni Beach (Grande Comore): Rent equipment (10€) to explore vibrant coral gardens just offshore.
Travel Mistake: On my second visit, I attempted to climb Karthala without hiring an official guide, thinking I could manage with online maps. Not only is this now illegal (since 2022), but I quickly became lost in fog on unmarked trails. I fortunately encountered a local farmer who pointed me back toward a main path, but the experience taught me to always respect local guiding requirements—they exist for good reason.
Safety and Practical Information
Health Preparations
- Vaccinations: Yellow fever certificate is mandatory. Also recommended: typhoid, hepatitis A, and routine vaccines.
- Malaria Prevention: Comoros is a high-risk malaria zone. Take prescribed prophylaxis and use insect repellent (especially at dawn/dusk).
- Medical Facilities: Limited to basic care. El-Maarouf Hospital in Moroni is the best facility, but serious conditions require evacuation to Réunion or mainland Africa.
Packing Tip: Bring a comprehensive medical kit including antibiotics, anti-diarrheals, and strong insect repellent. The humidity made my chronic eczema flare up during my second visit, and finding appropriate medication proved challenging.
Safety Considerations
Comoros is generally safe for travelers, but take normal precautions:
- Political demonstrations occasionally occur in Moroni—avoid these areas.
- Petty theft happens in urban areas; use hotel safes and don’t display valuables.
- Road safety is a concern—avoid night driving and be cautious of poor road conditions.
During the 2018 constitutional referendum, I encountered roadblocks on Grande Comore. By remaining calm and explaining I was a tourist, I was allowed to pass without incident. Always follow local news and embassy advisories before and during your visit.
Connectivity
Internet and mobile coverage have improved dramatically since my first visit:
- SIM Cards: Purchase from Comores Telecom or Telma at the airport or in urban centers (about 5€ with minimal identity requirements).
- Wi-Fi: Available in most mid-range and luxury accommodations in Moroni, but spotty on other islands.
- Power Outlets: Comoros uses European-style type E/F plugs (230V).
Connectivity Tip: Download the Maps.me app with Comoros maps before arrival. It offers more detailed offline maps of the islands than Google Maps, showing smaller trails and unmarked beaches.
Conclusion: Making the Most of Your Comoros Adventure
After five visits to these extraordinary islands, I’ve come to appreciate Comoros not despite its challenges but because of them. The lack of mass tourism infrastructure has preserved cultural authenticity and natural beauty that’s increasingly rare in our globalized world.
From the moment you smell the ylang-ylang scented air to your final sunset over the Indian Ocean, Comoros offers experiences that can’t be replicated elsewhere. The volcanic landscapes, vibrant marine environments, and genuine cultural interactions create memories that will stay with you long after you’ve returned home.
5-Step Action Plan for Your Comoros Trip
- Create a Realistic Itinerary: Plan for at least 2-3 days per island, with flexibility for transportation delays. If limited on time, focus on one island deeply rather than rushing between all three.
- Secure Accommodations in Advance: Especially important for Mohéli and Anjouan, where options are limited. Confirm bookings via WhatsApp a week before arrival.
- Prepare Financially: Bring more euros than you think you’ll need (I recommend 50€ per day plus emergency funds). ATMs are unreliable, and credit cards are rarely accepted outside top-tier hotels in Moroni.
- Connect with Locals Before Arrival: Join Facebook groups like “Comoros Travel Experiences” to connect with locals and expats who can provide up-to-date information and possibly meet up during your visit.
- Pack Strategically: Include modest clothing suitable for a conservative Muslim country, medical supplies, a filter water bottle, and a torch for frequent power outages.
As the Comorian saying goes, “Maore ya masihu, Ndzuani ya ntsi, Mwali ya mahaba, Ngazidja ya mambwe” (“Mayotte of the night, Anjouan of the soil, Mohéli of love, Grande Comore of stone”). Each island offers its unique magic, waiting for those adventurous enough to discover it.
The road less traveled often leads to the most rewarding destinations. In choosing Comoros for your 2025 adventure, you’re not just visiting another tropical destination—you’re experiencing one of Africa’s best-kept secrets before the rest of the world discovers its charms.
Frequently Asked Questions About Traveling to Comoros
Is Comoros safe for solo female travelers?
Yes, Comoros is generally safe for solo female travelers, though conservative dress is essential (covering shoulders and knees). I’ve traveled solo on three of my five visits and experienced minimal harassment. However, I avoided walking alone after dark in urban areas and arranged transportation through my accommodations when possible.
What’s the best way to get to Comoros?
The most reliable routes to Moroni (HAH) are via Ethiopian Airlines (through Addis Ababa), Kenya Airways (through Nairobi), or Air Tanzania (through Dar es Salaam). French travelers can use Air Austral via Mayotte or Réunion. Flight prices range from 700-1200€ return from Europe, with better deals usually available 3-4 months in advance.
Can I visit all three islands in one week?
Technically yes, but I strongly advise against it. Transportation between islands is unpredictable, and you’d spend most of your time in transit. A better approach for a one-week trip is to focus on Grande Comore with perhaps a 2-day excursion to Mohéli if weather and ferry schedules cooperate.
Do I need to speak French to travel in Comoros?
While not essential, basic French is extremely helpful as it’s widely spoken alongside Comorian (Shikomori). English speakers are rare outside top tourist establishments. I managed with limited French on my first visit but found that learning key phrases significantly enhanced my experiences.
What about Mayotte? Isn’t that part of Comoros?
Geographically, Mayotte is part of the Comoros archipelago, but politically it’s an overseas department of France. Visiting requires a Schengen visa for non-EU citizens. There are no direct commercial connections between Mayotte and the Union of Comoros due to ongoing political disputes over Mayotte’s status.
Is Comoros expensive to visit?
Comoros sits in the mid-range for African destinations. Budget travelers can manage on 50-70€ daily, while mid-range travelers should budget 100-150€ per day including accommodations, meals, and activities. The lack of mass tourism means fewer budget options than in more popular destinations.
What’s the currency situation in Comoros?
The official currency is the Comorian Franc (KMF), but euros are widely accepted and often preferred for larger transactions. Credit cards are rarely accepted outside major hotels in Moroni. ATMs exist but are unreliable and often have withdrawal limits of about 150€ equivalent.
Are there any cultural taboos I should be aware of?
Public displays of affection are inappropriate. Alcohol consumption is legal but should be discreet. Photographing government buildings is prohibited. During Ramadan, eating, drinking, or smoking in public during daylight hours should be avoided out of respect.
References and Further Reading
- UK Foreign Office Travel Advice for Comoros – Regularly updated travel advisories and entry requirements
- Lonely Planet: Comoros – Comprehensive destination guide with practical information
- Official Comoros Tourism Website – Official information on attractions and events
- Journey Era: Comoros Travel Guide – Detailed blog with stunning photography and personal experiences
- Project Expedition: Comoros – Adventure activities and tour options
- IUCN Conservation Projects in Comoros – Information on conservation efforts and protected areas
- Mohéli Marine Park Official Website – Conservation information and visitor guidelines
- Mount Karthala Information – Geological information and climbing history
- World Nomads: Safety in Comoros – Practical safety information and travel insurance options
- CDC Travel Health Information for Comoros – Up-to-date health requirements and recommendations
- Ethnologue: Languages of Comoros – Information on Comorian dialects and language distribution
- Weather Patterns in Comoros – Detailed weather forecasts and historical climate data