Introduction: Why Cabo Verde Stole My Heart
The first time I stepped off the plane at Praia International Airport (RAI) back in 2019, I had no idea Cabo Verde would become my obsession. Six years and eleven visits later, I’m still discovering hidden corners of this volcanic archipelago that most travelers miss. I’ll never forget getting caught in an unexpected rainstorm on Santo Antão, ducking into a tiny local bar where an elderly man taught me to play ouril (a traditional board game) while we waited out the downpour. The smell of cachupa simmering on the wood stove, the sound of morna music floating through the open door, and the warmth of complete strangers who insisted I join their family meal—that’s when Cabo Verde truly captured my heart.
This guide isn’t your typical tourist info packet. It’s everything I wish someone had told me before my first trip: the money-saving hacks, cultural insights, transportation tricks, and those special places that don’t make it into mainstream guides. Whether you’re island hopping for two weeks or settling in on Santiago for a longer stay, consider this your 2025 cheat sheet to experiencing Cabo Verde like someone who knows the archipelago intimately.
Understanding Cabo Verde’s Islands: Which Ones to Visit
Cabo Verde is an archipelago of 10 islands (9 inhabited), each with its own distinct character. After exploring them all multiple times, I’ve developed a cheat sheet to help you choose which islands match your travel style.
The Tourist Centers
- Sal: Beach paradise with the most developed tourism infrastructure. Perfect for first-timers who want ease and comfort, but this comes with higher prices and less authentic cultural experiences.
- Boa Vista: Endless beaches and sand dunes with a growing resort scene. More laid-back than Sal but still tourist-oriented.
The Cultural Hearts
- Santiago: Home to the capital Praia (where RAI airport is located) and the historic Cidade Velha (UNESCO site). The most African-feeling island with vibrant markets and authentic culture.
- São Vicente: The cultural capital centered around Mindelo, known for music, nightlife, and its annual carnival.
The Hiking Paradises
- Santo Antão: Dramatic mountains, deep valleys, and the famous hiking path from Cova crater to Paúl Valley. My personal favorite.
- Fogo: Home to an active volcano with incredible hiking opportunities and unique wine production.
The Hidden Gems
- Brava: The smallest inhabited island, lush and green with few tourists.
- Maio: Pristine beaches without the development or crowds.
- São Nicolau: Beautiful mountain scenery and traditional villages virtually untouched by tourism.
Insider Tip: The islands are grouped into Barlavento (windward) in the north and Sotavento (leeward) in the south. Plan your island hopping within one group to save on transportation costs and time. Island hopping across groups usually requires returning to Sal or Praia first, adding expense and travel days.
Getting Around Cabo Verde: Transportation Secrets
Inter-Island Travel
The biggest challenge for visitors to Cabo Verde is efficiently moving between islands. Here’s what I’ve learned:
Flights
BestFly and TICV operate domestic flights. They’re not cheap, but they’re fast:
- Book at least 3-4 weeks in advance for the best rates
- Prices range from 80€-150€ one-way depending on route popularity
- The Santiago (RAI) to Sal route has the most frequent service
- Flight schedules change seasonally and aren’t always reliable
Money-saving hack #1: While not advertised, BestFly offers a 10-15% discount if you buy multiple flights at once through their office in Praia. I saved nearly 200€ on my last trip by purchasing all my domestic flights in person upon arrival rather than online.
Ferries
Much cheaper than flights but slower and sometimes canceled due to rough seas:
- CV Interilhas operates most ferry routes
- Fares range from 15€-35€ one-way depending on distance
- São Vicente to Santo Antão is a reliable 1-hour ferry (runs several times daily)
- The ferry from Praia (Santiago) to Fogo takes about 3 hours but only runs 2-3 times weekly
My painful lesson: In January 2023, I booked a tight itinerary relying on ferries, only to have three consecutive days of cancellations due to high swells. I missed my international flight home and had to pay for a last-minute flight from Fogo to Santiago (150€). Always build buffer days into your schedule if using ferries!
On-Island Transportation
Aluguer (Shared Vans)
These are my favorite way to travel like a local:
- Shared minivans that leave when full (hiace vans)
- Super cheap: 100-300 CVE (1-3€) for most routes
- No fixed schedule – they depart when full
- Found at central markets or main transportation hubs
On Santiago, the main aluguer station is at Sucupira Market in Praia. For São Vicente, head to the fish market area in Mindelo.
Taxis
- Widely available in main towns
- Always negotiate price before getting in
- In Praia, expect to pay 300-500 CVE (3-5€) for trips within the city
- Collective taxis are cheaper but follow set routes like buses
Car Rental
- Expect to pay 40-60€ per day
- Roads can be challenging, especially on Santo Antão and Fogo
- Local companies are cheaper than international chains
- International drivers license not strictly required but recommended
Money-saving hack #2: Instead of renting a car for your entire stay, hire a local driver for a full day tour (60-80€) to see the highlights, then use aluguers for shorter trips. I’ve found some of my favorite hidden spots through chatty local drivers who were happy to detour to their personal favorite viewpoints.
Accommodation Guide: Where to Stay Beyond the Resorts
While the all-inclusive resorts on Sal and Boa Vista are convenient, they isolate you from the real Cabo Verde and your money doesn’t benefit local communities as much. Here are better options I’ve discovered:
Santiago Island (Praia)
Most travelers arrive via RAI airport, making Praia a common first stop:
Type | Recommendation | Price Range | Why I Love It |
---|---|---|---|
Budget | Residencial Nazaré | 30-40€/night | Central location, family-run, includes breakfast with homemade jam |
Mid-range | Pensão Astoria | 50-70€/night | Colonial building with character, rooftop terrace with city views |
Boutique | Casa Colonial | 80-100€/night | Beautifully restored heritage building, helpful owners with deep local knowledge |
Local phrase worth knowing: “N ta fika na Plateau” (I’m staying in Plateau) – useful when taking taxis. Plateau is the historic center and safest area for tourists.
Santo Antão (Hiking Paradise)
My favorite island for immersive stays:
- Paúl Valley: Aldeia Jerome – Family-run ecolodge with farm-to-table meals (60€/night)
- Ponta do Sol: Residencial Ponta do Sol – Simple rooms with amazing ocean views (40€/night)
- Ribeira Grande: Casa das Ilhas – Beautiful garden setting with kitchen access (50€/night)
São Vicente (Cultural Hub)
Stay in Mindelo to enjoy the music and nightlife:
- Budget: Residencial Solar – Clean rooms near the center (35€/night)
- Mid-range: Kása d’Artista – Art-filled boutique hotel run by a local musician (65€/night)
Money-saving hack #3: Outside high season (December-March), almost all accommodations are negotiable, especially for stays of 3+ nights. I’ve regularly received 15-30% discounts simply by emailing directly and politely asking for their best rate for a longer stay. Even better, arrive with cash and negotiate in person – I got a week-long stay at a guesthouse in Tarrafal (Santiago) for half the listed price this way in April 2024.
Food & Drink: Navigating Cape Verdean Cuisine
Cape Verdean food blends Portuguese, West African, and Brazilian influences. Here’s what to try and where to find it:
Must-Try Dishes
- Cachupa Rica – The national dish: a slow-cooked stew with corn, beans, cassava, sweet potato, and meat. The best version I’ve had is at Quintal da Música in Praia.
- Catchupa Refogada – Leftover cachupa fried with eggs for breakfast. Look for it at morning markets.
- Buzio – Sea snail stew, incredible at the port restaurants in Tarrafal, Santiago.
- Grogue – Sugar cane spirit (similar to rum). The best comes from Santo Antão.
- Pontche – Grogue mixed with honey and lime. Dangerously delicious!
Where to Eat Authentically
Santiago
- Mercado de Sucupira – Food stalls serving cheap, delicious local food (lunch for 3-5€)
- Kebra Canela Beach – Fresh fish restaurants where you select your catch (8-12€ for a full meal)
- Quintal das Amoras – Lovely garden setting with traditional food (Plateau area)
São Vicente
- Fish Market – Watch the catch come in, then eat at the adjacent restaurants
- Mindelo Harbor – Seafood restaurants serving the day’s catch
Local phrase worth knowing: “Un cachupa sabi, por favor” (A tasty cachupa, please). Adding “sabi” (tasty) always gets a smile from local cooks!
Dietary Restrictions
As a vegetarian for my first two visits, I struggled until I learned these phrases:
- “Sin carne, sin peixe” – Without meat, without fish
- “So legumes, por favor” – Just vegetables, please
Vegetarian options are limited but improving in tourist areas. The best vegetarian food I found was at Terra Sóla in Mindelo.
My embarrassing mistake: During my first trip, I confidently ordered “catchupa sem carne” (without meat) not realizing that the stock was still meat-based. If you’re strictly vegetarian, be very specific about your needs!
Money Matters: Currency, Costs & Saving Tips
Managing money in Cabo Verde requires some planning:
Currency Basics
- The local currency is the Cape Verdean Escudo (CVE)
- Fixed exchange rate: 1€ = 110 CVE
- US Dollars and Euros widely accepted at tourist establishments (but at poor rates)
- ATMs available on all major islands but sometimes run out of cash
Daily Budget Expectations (2025 Prices)
Expense | Budget | Mid-Range | Luxury |
---|---|---|---|
Accommodation | 25-40€ | 50-80€ | 100€+ |
Meals | 10-15€ | 20-30€ | 40€+ |
Transportation (daily) | 5-10€ | 15-25€ | 40€+ (rental car) |
Activities | 0-10€ | 20-40€ | 50€+ |
Important 2025 update: Since the pandemic, prices have increased 15-20% across the islands. The tourism recovery has driven accommodation costs up particularly on Sal and Boa Vista. Santiago and the less-visited islands remain much better value.
Money-Saving Insider Tips
- Withdraw larger amounts from ATMs to minimize fees (but keep it secure)
- Eat where locals eat – food stalls at markets serve full meals for 300-500 CVE (3-5€)
- Buy fruit from street vendors – fresh papaya, mango, and bananas for a fraction of restaurant prices
- Use aluguers (shared vans) instead of taxis whenever possible
- Negotiate accommodation rates for stays longer than 2 nights
- Bring a reusable water bottle with filter – tap water isn’t potable but filtered bottles save you buying plastic bottles
Sustainability tip that saves money: Cabo Verde has water scarcity issues. By taking short showers, reusing towels, and bringing a SteriPen or LifeStraw water purifier, you’ll save on bottled water costs (about 100 CVE/bottle) while reducing plastic waste on these beautiful islands. I saved about 30€ on my last two-week trip just by purifying tap water.
Cultural Do’s & Don’ts: Respecting Cape Verdean Ways
Understanding local customs will enrich your experience immeasurably:
Communication
- Portuguese is the official language, but Creole (Kriolu) is what most people speak day-to-day
- English is limited outside tourist areas, but increasing in younger generations
- Learning a few Kriolu phrases goes a long way in building rapport
Useful Phrases
- “Olá” – Hello
- “Obrigado/a” – Thank you (male/female speaker)
- “Tudo drett?” – All good? (common greeting)
- “Nha terra sabi” – Your country is beautiful/delicious
Social Etiquette
Do:
- Greet everyone when entering a small shop or restaurant
- Accept offers of coffee or grogue (local rum) as a gesture of hospitality
- Ask permission before photographing people
- Respect the relaxed pace (“morabeza” culture)
Don’t:
- Rush or show impatience – “island time” is real here
- Wear beachwear in towns or churches
- Give money to children who beg – support local organizations instead
- Compare islands negatively – each island has strong local pride
My cultural misstep: During my second visit, I made the mistake of telling a proud Santiaguense (Santiago resident) that I preferred São Vicente’s beaches. The temperature dropped immediately. I’ve since learned that gentle curiosity about each island’s unique qualities is much better than comparisons – Cape Verdeans have strong island identities!
Morabeza: The Cape Verdean Spirit
“Morabeza” is a Creole word that doesn’t translate directly but means something like “welcoming hospitality.” It’s the heart of Cape Verdean culture. If you’re invited to someone’s home or to join a family meal, accepting shows respect for this cherished cultural value.
Health & Safety: Staying Well During Your Trip
Health Considerations
- Water: Don’t drink tap water unless purified – bottled or filtered only
- Sun protection: The Cape Verdean sun is intensely strong year-round
- Motion sickness: Ferry crossings can be rough – bring medication if sensitive
- Medical facilities: Basic on most islands; better hospitals in Praia and Mindelo
Safety Tips
Cabo Verde is one of Africa’s safest countries, but normal precautions apply:
- Petty theft occurs in major towns – use hotel safes when available
- Avoid isolated beaches on Santiago after dark
- Use registered taxis at night rather than walking in unfamiliar areas
- Be cautious of unofficial guides offering services in tourist areas
Unexpected observation: The occasional power outages across the islands aren’t a safety concern—they’re just part of island life. Keep a charged power bank and small flashlight handy. During one memorable dinner in Tarrafal, our restaurant simply lit candles and continued service without missing a beat, creating an unexpectedly romantic evening!
Suggested Itineraries: Making the Most of Your Time
1-Week Itinerary: Cultural Highlights
- Days 1-2: Santiago (Praia) – Explore the capital, visit Cidade Velha (UNESCO site), and the Sucupira Market
- Days 3-4: São Vicente – Experience Mindelo’s music scene and beaches
- Days 5-7: Santo Antão – Hike the spectacular mountain trails, explore Paúl Valley
2-Week Itinerary: Comprehensive Cabo Verde
- Days 1-3: Santiago – Capital, history, mountains, and beaches
- Days 4-6: Fogo – Volcano hiking, wine tasting, Chã das Caldeiras
- Days 7-9: São Vicente – Cultural capital, music, colonial architecture
- Days 10-12: Santo Antão – Best hiking, dramatic landscapes
- Days 13-14: Sal – Beach relaxation before departure
Planning mistake I made: On my first visit, I tried to see five islands in ten days. The frequent flight delays and ferry cancellations meant I spent more time in transit than enjoying the places. Now I recommend a maximum of 3 islands for a 7-10 day trip, focusing on one island group (either Barlavento or Sotavento) to minimize travel complications.
Conclusion: Your 5-Step Plan for an Unforgettable Cabo Verde Experience
After six years of exploring these islands, I’ve distilled my advice into five actionable steps for an authentic Cabo Verde experience:
- Choose depth over breadth – Pick 2-3 islands that match your interests rather than rushing between all nine. The connections between islands are the most challenging aspect of travel here.
- Learn 5-10 basic Kriolu phrases – This simple effort will transform your interactions with locals and open doors to authentic experiences no guidebook can list.
- Build in buffer days – Transportation disruptions are common. Never schedule important connections (like international flights) without at least one buffer day.
- Connect with local music – Whether it’s catching live morna in Mindelo, funaná in Praia, or a spontaneous evening gathering in a village square, Cape Verdean music is your gateway to understanding the soul of these islands.
- Embrace “no stress” – The Cape Verdean philosophy of “no stress” isn’t just a saying—it’s a way of life. Flights will be delayed, restaurants will serve you when they’re ready, and plans will change. The sooner you adopt this mindset, the more you’ll enjoy these magical islands.
Cabo Verde remains one of Africa’s most underrated destinations—a place where authenticity still prevails over mass tourism. Every time I return, I discover new dimensions to these volcanic islands rising from the Atlantic. The landscapes will take your breath away, but it’s the warmth of Cape Verdean people that will stay in your heart long after you leave.
As they say in Kriolu: “Cabo Verde, terra sabi!” (Cape Verde, delicious land!)
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to visit Cabo Verde?
The climate is pleasant year-round, but the ideal time is November to June when temperatures are mild (22-28°C) and rainfall minimal. August-October can be uncomfortably humid with occasional rain. For cultural events, February (Carnival in Mindelo) and August (music festivals) are highlights.
Do I need a visa to visit Cabo Verde?
Most nationalities can register online for the EASE visa waiver before travel. As of 2025, this costs 30€ and allows stays up to 30 days. You must register at least 5 days before arrival and show proof of accommodation and return tickets.
Is Cabo Verde expensive?
It depends on your travel style. Resort areas on Sal and Boa Vista are priced for European tourists and can be expensive. However, on Santiago, Santo Antão, and other less touristy islands, you can travel comfortably for 50-70€ per day including accommodation, food, and local transportation.
Is English widely spoken?
English is not widespread outside tourist areas. In resorts and major hotels, staff generally speak English. On Sal and Boa Vista, many restaurant workers speak basic English. On other islands, Portuguese is more useful, though even basic Portuguese can be different from the Kriolu most locals speak among themselves.
Are the islands safe for solo female travelers?
Based on my experience as a solo female traveler to the islands, Cabo Verde is relatively safe. Exercise normal precautions, especially in Praia at night. Unwanted attention can occur but is usually harmless. I’ve felt comfortable hiking alone on Santo Antão and Fogo during daylight hours and exploring most towns independently.
How many days do I need to experience Cabo Verde?
For a single island visit, 4-5 days is sufficient. For island hopping, allow at least 10-14 days to experience 3-4 islands without rushing. Transportation between islands can be time-consuming and unpredictable, so factor in buffer days.
What’s the internet/connectivity situation?
WiFi is available in most accommodations but can be slow and unreliable. For better connectivity, purchase a local SIM card from either Unitel or CV Telecom upon arrival. As of 2025, 5GB of data costs around 1500 CVE (14€) and provides good coverage on major islands.
What electrical plugs are used in Cabo Verde?
Cabo Verde uses the European two-pin round plugs (Type C and F) with 220V supply. If coming from the US, you’ll need both a plug adapter and a voltage converter for most appliances.
References and Further Reading
- Cape Verde Information Portal – Comprehensive resource for planning
- EASE Visa Registration – Official site for pre-arrival registration
- CV Interilhas – Ferry schedules and bookings
- BestFly – Domestic flight information
- Guia de Cabo Verde – Detailed island guides (in Portuguese)
- Cape Verde Islands Guide – Tourism information by island
- Weather Information – Current conditions and forecasts
- Lonely Planet: Cape Verde – Travel guide and articles
- Cape Verde Tourism – Official tourism board information
- Hiking the Cape Verdes – Detailed trail information and maps
- Journey Era: Cape Verde – Destination guide with excellent photography
- Travel Cabo Verde – Local travel agency with useful information