Discovering Benghazi: My Personal Journey
The first time I stepped foot in Benghazi back in 2018, I was overwhelmed with anxiety. The media portrayal had painted a grim picture, and I questioned my decision to visit. Seven years and multiple trips later, I’ve developed a deep affection for Libya’s second-largest city. During my most recent visit in late 2024, I was struck by how much had changed—new cafés dotting the corniche, reconstruction projects breathing life into war-damaged neighborhoods, and a palpable sense of cautious optimism among locals.
“Benghazi tadhharu bi-l-hayah min jadid” (Benghazi is coming alive again), my friend Tarek told me as we shared mint tea overlooking the Mediterranean. This sentiment captures the resilience I’ve witnessed in this misunderstood city.
This guide distills everything I’ve learned—often the hard way—about navigating Benghazi safely, respectfully, and meaningfully. Whether you’re traveling for business, family connections, academic research, or simply curiosity about this historically significant place, I hope my experiences help you avoid my mistakes and discover the authentic beauty of Benghazi.
Essential Planning: Before You Go
Entry Requirements & Documentation
Libya’s visa process remains complex in 2025, especially for Benghazi. I learned this lesson when my first visa application was rejected because I hadn’t secured a local sponsor—a requirement that isn’t clearly stated on most embassy websites.
- Visa: Apply at least 3 months in advance through a Libyan embassy or consulate
- Local Sponsor/Invitation: Essential for most travelers (connect with hotels, tour companies, or business contacts)
- Travel Permits: Once in Libya, you’ll need permits to travel between cities
- Embassy Registration: Register with your home country’s embassy before arrival
Money-Saving Insider Tip #1: Skip the expensive visa agencies. I paid 250 USD for a service that essentially did what I could have done myself. Instead, connect directly with your accommodation in Benghazi—many higher-end hotels offer visa assistance at a fraction of the cost or even complimentary for longer stays.
Security Considerations
The security situation in Benghazi has stabilized significantly since 2017, but remains dynamic. During my 2022 visit, I made the mistake of not checking neighborhood-specific safety updates and accidentally wandered into an area where tensions had recently flared.
- Check travel advisories weekly in the month before your trip
- Join Facebook groups like “Expats in Libya” for real-time updates
- Consider hiring a local guide/fixer for at least your first few days
- Memorize emergency phrases in Arabic (see Language section)
- Avoid photography near military installations or checkpoints
When to Visit Benghazi
The Mediterranean climate makes Benghazi pleasant for much of the year, but timing can make or break your experience. I once visited during August and spent most days hiding from the oppressive heat!
Season | Months | Temperature | Considerations |
---|---|---|---|
Ideal | March-May, Oct-Nov | 18-27°C (65-80°F) | Perfect weather, moderate tourism |
Summer | June-September | 30-40°C (86-104°F) | Extremely hot, locals often leave |
Winter | December-February | 10-18°C (50-65°F) | Occasional rain, fewer tourists |
Ramadan | Varies annually | Varies by month | Limited daytime dining, unique cultural experience |
Navigating Benghazi Like a Local
Transportation Options
Getting around Benghazi efficiently requires some local knowledge. My biggest transportation mishap occurred when I trusted Google Maps walking directions and ended up on a 7km trek in midday heat through areas with no sidewalks!
From Airport to City
Benina International Airport (BEN) is approximately 19km east of central Benghazi.
- Pre-arranged Hotel Transfer: Most reliable option (40-60 LYD)
- Taxis: Available outside arrivals (negotiate rate before entering, expect 50-70 LYD)
- Ride-sharing: Wasalni app works in Benghazi as of 2025 (similar to Uber, ~35-45 LYD)
Moving Around the City
- Walking: Feasible in central areas and the corniche during daytime
- Taxis: No meters; negotiate fare upfront (short trips: 5-10 LYD)
- Microbus: Local shared vans with fixed routes (2 LYD per ride)
- Car Rental: Available but challenging without Arabic skills (~70-100 LYD/day)
Money-Saving Insider Tip #2: The local microbuses are significantly cheaper than taxis and an authentic way to experience daily life. Look for white Toyota Hiace vans with destinations written in Arabic on the windshield. I saved approximately 200 LYD during a week-long stay by using these instead of taxis. Ask your hotel to write down your destination in Arabic to show the driver.
Accommodation Guide
Finding suitable accommodation in Benghazi can be challenging online. Many good options don’t appear on international booking sites, and quality varies dramatically. My first stay was in a hotel that looked great in photos but had no running water for two days!
Recommended Neighborhoods
- Al-Fuwihat: Safe, upscale area with diplomatic presence
- Downtown/Central: Convenient but busier
- Corniche Area: Beautiful sea views, walkable
- Al-Majuri: Residential area with some good guesthouses
Accommodation Options by Budget
Type | Price Range (LYD/night) | Recommendations | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
Luxury | 400-700 LYD | Tibesti Hotel, Al-Waddan Hotel | International standards, security, reliable power |
Mid-range | 150-350 LYD | Awal Hotel, Benghazi Suites | Good value, often more authentic |
Budget | 70-150 LYD | Guesthouses in Al-Majuri, Oun Hotel | Basic amenities, intermittent hot water |
Long-term | 2000-4000 LYD/month | Furnished apartments via Facebook groups | Requires local guarantor usually |
Money-Saving Insider Tip #3: Most hotels quote in USD but offer significant discounts (sometimes up to 30%) if you pay in Libyan Dinars cash. I saved approximately 80 USD on a four-night stay at Awal Hotel using this method. The key is to withdraw dinars from an ATM rather than exchanging at the hotel, where rates are poor.
Additionally, many hotels don’t advertise that breakfast is negotiable—I’ve successfully had it removed from my rate for a 15-20% discount when I preferred to eat at local cafés.
Cultural Navigation & Etiquette
Dress Code & Behavior
Libya is a conservative Muslim country, and Benghazi is more traditional than Tripoli. Respecting local customs will enhance your experience significantly. I learned this the hard way when I wore shorts to Jamal Abdel Nasser Street markets and received uncomfortable stares all day.
For Women
- Cover shoulders, chest, and knees at minimum
- Long sleeves and loose pants/long skirts preferable
- Headscarf not mandatory but useful to have for mosque visits
- Avoid tight-fitting clothes
For Men
- No shorts in public spaces (except private beaches/pools)
- T-shirts acceptable but collared shirts more respected
- Remove shoes when entering homes or mosques
Local Language Essentials
While many educated Benghazians speak some English, knowing basic Arabic phrases demonstrates respect and opens doors to authentic experiences. The Libyan dialect differs from standard Arabic, but these phrases will serve you well:
English | Arabic (Phonetic) | Usage Context |
---|---|---|
Hello/Peace | As-salaam alaykum | General greeting |
Thank you | Shukran | For any assistance |
Please | Min fadlak (to man)/Min fadlik (to woman) | Making requests |
Yes/No | Aywa/La | Simple responses |
How much? | Bekam? | Shopping, taxis |
Too expensive! | Ghali bezaf! | Negotiating |
Where is…? | Wayn…? | Finding locations |
I need help | Ana muhtaj musa’ada | Emergency situations |
Delicious! | Zaki! | Complimenting food |
Two distinctly Libyan phrases I’ve found particularly useful:
- “Mtarabin?” – How are you doing? (Literally: Are you comfortable?)
- “Bil haniy” – Enjoy your meal (said before eating)
Money Matters
Libya’s financial system can be confusing for visitors. During my second trip, I nearly ran out of cash because I incorrectly assumed ATMs would be readily available and credit cards widely accepted.
Banking & Currency
- Currency: Libyan Dinar (LYD)
- Cash Economy: Most transactions are cash-only
- ATMs: Limited functionality, often empty
- Exchange: Bring USD or EUR in cash
- Parallel Market: Unofficial exchange rates may be significantly better
Sustainability Tip That Saves Money: Bring a reusable water bottle with a built-in filter. Bottled water in Benghazi costs 2-3 LYD per bottle and creates plastic waste. I used my filtered bottle to drink tap water (which isn’t potable without filtering) and saved approximately 20-30 LYD per day while reducing plastic waste. The LifeStraw Go bottle served me perfectly.
Must-See Experiences in Benghazi
Historical & Cultural Sites
Benghazi’s complex history spans ancient Greek colonies to modern revolutions. Many historical sites were damaged during conflict but restoration efforts have made significant progress since 2022.
Essential Historical Sites
- Ptolemais Archaeological Site – Greco-Roman ruins (45 minutes drive from central Benghazi)
- Italian Quarter – Colonial-era architecture around Omar al-Mukhtar Street
- Benghazi Cathedral – Now Salmani Freedom Square, historic landmark
- King Idris Palace – Former royal residence
- Revolution Landmarks – Including Tahrir Square where the 2011 uprising began
Museums & Cultural Centers
- Benghazi Museum – Recently reopened with artifacts from ancient Cyrenaica
- Dar al-Fanun Gallery – Contemporary Libyan art
- Atiq Mosque – Historic mosque in the old city center
Natural Beauty & Outdoor Experiences
Benghazi’s coastal location offers stunning Mediterranean landscapes often overlooked by travel accounts focused on security concerns.
- Benghazi Corniche – 10km seaside promenade, best at sunset
- Juliana Beach – 20km east of city center, cleaner waters
- Al-Koof National Park – Day trip (2 hours drive) for dramatic landscapes
- Ganfudah Salt Marshes – Pink waters and flamingos in winter months
Culinary Experiences
Libyan cuisine blends Mediterranean, Arabic, and Berber influences. In Benghazi specifically, there’s a notable eastern influence that differentiates it from western Libyan food. My first taste of authentic Mbakbaka (Libyan pasta) at a family-run restaurant near the corniche was a revelation—spicy, aromatic, and utterly different from any pasta I’d tried elsewhere.
Must-Try Dishes
- Mbakbaka – Spiced pasta with chickpeas and meat
- Bazin – Dough-like bread served with meat and potato sauce
- Aseedah – Dumplings in tomato sauce with vegetables
- Libyan Couscous – Differs from North African versions, often spicier
- Makarouna – Pasta with rich tomato sauce and unique spice blend
- Shakshouka – Eggs poached in spiced tomato sauce (breakfast)
Recommended Eateries
Name | Location | Known For | Price Range |
---|---|---|---|
Al-Safwa Restaurant | Al-Fuwihat district | Authentic Libyan cuisine | 20-40 LYD |
Venezia Café | Corniche | Sea views, Italian-Libyan fusion | 25-50 LYD |
Dar El-Kalam | Near Juliana Bridge | Seafood | 35-70 LYD |
Ben Matar Sweets | Old Market area | Traditional desserts | 10-20 LYD |
Street vendors near Maydan al-Sa’a | City center | Falafel, schawarma | 5-15 LYD |
Local Tip: Restaurants typically serve lunch from 1-3pm and dinner from 7-10pm. Many close between these times. During Ramadan, most restaurants only open after sunset.
Off the Beaten Path: Hidden Benghazi
Local Neighborhoods Worth Exploring
Beyond the central areas, I’ve discovered several neighborhoods that reveal authentic daily life rarely seen by visitors:
- Al-Sabri – Historic neighborhood undergoing rebuilding with traditional architecture
- Al-Hadaiq – “The Gardens” district with lush vegetation and residential charm
- Al-Majuri – Local markets and traditional craftspeople
I discovered Al-Majuri accidentally when a taxi driver took me on a detour, and it’s now my favorite area to wander. The small bakeries produce incredible khubz tarabulsi (Tripoli bread) that costs just 1 LYD yet outshines anything in fancier establishments.
Meeting Locals
Libyans are incredibly hospitable, but making connections requires some cultural understanding:
- Shisha Cafés – Men-only social hubs where political discussions happen
- Women’s Associations – Female travelers can connect through university or NGO programs
- Language Exchanges – Facebook groups facilitate meetings with English-learning locals
- Cultural Events – Poetry readings and art exhibitions at Dar al-Fanun
Personal Mistake to Avoid: During my second visit, I enthusiastically tried joining a group of men at a café without realizing I was interrupting a private gathering. I learned that it’s better to wait for an invitation or have a mutual acquaintance make introductions. A more appropriate approach is visiting cafés along the corniche, which are more accustomed to foreigners.
Practical Information for Daily Life
Internet & Connectivity
Libya’s internet infrastructure has improved significantly since 2021, but remains challenging:
- Mobile SIM Cards: Available from Libyana or Madar (bring passport)
- Cost: ~30 LYD for SIM with 10GB data
- Coverage: Good in central Benghazi, spotty in outskirts
- VPN: Necessary for some services (download before arrival)
- Power: Frequent outages; portable charger recommended
Personal Mistake to Avoid: I once spent hours trying to buy a SIM card at the airport only to learn they were sold out. Now I ask my hotel to arrange one in advance so it’s ready upon arrival.
Healthcare & Emergencies
Healthcare in Benghazi requires advance planning:
- Travel Insurance: Comprehensive coverage essential
- Medications: Bring adequate supply (some medications unavailable)
- Hospitals: Al-Jala Hospital is the best-equipped public facility
- Private Clinics: Ibn Sina Medical Center offers better service (expensive)
- Emergency Numbers:
- General Emergency: 193
- Ambulance: 195
- Police: 194
Shopping Guide
Benghazi offers everything from traditional souks to modern boutiques:
Markets & Shopping Areas
- Al-Fonduk Market – Traditional crafts and textiles
- Dubai Market – Modern mall with international brands
- Omar al-Mukhtar Street – Main shopping thoroughfare
- Wednesday Market – Weekly souk in Al-Majuri district
What to Buy
- Carpets: Authentic Cyrenaican designs with geometric patterns
- Silver jewelry: Distinctive filigree work
- Leather goods: Especially camel leather items
- Spices: Unique Libyan blends like bzaar and hararat
Negotiation Tip: Unlike some Arab countries, aggressive bargaining isn’t common in Libya. A better approach is friendly conversation that leads to a modest discount. My technique is to express genuine interest in the craftspersonship before gently asking “Mumkin takhfid basit?” (Could I have a small discount?)
Your 5-Step Action Plan for Visiting Benghazi
After seven years of traveling to Benghazi, I’ve distilled the essentials into this actionable plan:
- Start Early (3+ Months Before):
- Apply for visa with proper documentation
- Secure a local contact or guide
- Book accommodations directly via email/phone
- Register travel with your embassy
- One Month Before:
- Monitor security updates weekly
- Confirm all reservations
- Purchase comprehensive travel insurance
- Download offline maps, translation apps, and VPN
- One Week Before:
- Exchange some currency to USD or EUR
- Print all documents (electronic copies unreliable)
- Check latest COVID/health requirements
- Inform credit card companies of travel
- First 24 Hours in Benghazi:
- Arrange SIM card immediately
- Acclimate to neighborhood near accommodation
- Exchange currency at bank (better rates)
- Confirm local security situation with hotel staff
- Throughout Your Stay:
- Start with guided experiences before independent exploration
- Use a dedicated money belt for valuables
- Check in with embassy/family regularly
- Respect photography restrictions and local customs
- Collect business cards from places you enjoy (Google unreliable)
Following this structured approach has transformed my experiences from anxiety-filled to deeply rewarding. Benghazi rewards the prepared traveler with authentic cultural exchanges impossible to find in more touristed destinations.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Benghazi safe for tourists in 2025?
Benghazi has become significantly safer since 2017, but remains a complex destination requiring preparation. The central and northern districts are generally secure for visitors who exercise appropriate caution. However, safety situations can change rapidly, so it’s essential to monitor current conditions, register with your embassy, and ideally connect with local contacts. I’ve felt safe during daytime in most areas, but avoid outskirts and travel after dark.
What’s the best way to get a Libyan visa for visiting Benghazi?
The most reliable approach is applying through a Libyan embassy or consulate with an official invitation letter from a Libyan entity (hotel, business, or tour operator). The process typically takes 4-8 weeks. Using visa agencies can simplify the process but costs considerably more. Since 2023, some nationalities can apply through the electronic visa portal, though the system experiences frequent technical issues.
Can I use credit cards in Benghazi?
Credit card acceptance remains extremely limited as of 2025. A few international hotels accept cards, but the vast majority of businesses are cash-only. The banking system continues to face challenges, and many ATMs are non-functional or empty. I recommend bringing sufficient cash (preferably USD or EUR) to exchange upon arrival.
What should female travelers know about visiting Benghazi?
Female travelers should dress modestly (covering shoulders, chest, and knees at minimum) and may experience more limitations than male visitors. Solo female travelers may attract attention but are generally respected. Having a male companion (guide or fellow traveler) can provide access to more spaces. However, women-only spaces like certain cafés and hammams offer unique cultural experiences unavailable to male travelers.
How reliable is internet access in Benghazi?
Internet connectivity has improved notably since 2022, but remains inconsistent. Most hotels and cafés offer WiFi, though speeds rarely exceed 5 Mbps. Mobile data provides more reliable coverage in central areas. I recommend downloading offline maps, translation tools, and entertainment before arrival. A VPN is essential for accessing some websites and services.
What’s the current COVID-19 situation for travelers to Libya?
As of early 2025, Libya has relaxed most COVID-19 restrictions, but requirements can change with minimal notice. Currently, travelers need to show either proof of vaccination or a negative PCR test taken within 72 hours of arrival. Mask requirements vary by location and current health advisories. Check with your airline and the Libyan embassy for the most current requirements before travel.
Can I travel independently around Benghazi and to nearby sites?
Independent travel within central Benghazi is feasible for experienced travelers. However, trips to archaeological sites like Ptolemais or Cyrene require travel permits and are best arranged through a local guide or tour operator. Checkpoints are common on roads outside the city, and permission requirements change frequently. Having a local driver/guide significantly enhances both safety and access.
References and Further Reading
- U.S. Department of State – Libya Travel Advisory
- UK Foreign Office – Libya Travel Advice
- Lonely Planet – Libya Travel Guide
- Libya Herald – News and Updates
- Wikipedia – Benghazi History and Information
- The Guardian – Regeneration and Heritage in Benghazi
- Libyan Food – Traditional Recipes and Culinary History
- Middle East Eye – Architectural Heritage of Libya
- Culture Trip – Libya Articles
- Facebook Group – Expats in Libya
- Cyrenaica Heritage Organization
- Restaurant Guru – Benghazi Dining