Why I Keep Coming Back to Nyíregyháza
The first time I visited Nyíregyháza in 2018, I was supposed to stay for just two days. Those two days turned into a week, and I’ve returned every year since (except during the pandemic). There’s something captivating about this lesser-known Hungarian city that keeps pulling me back. Last summer, as I sat in the thermal waters of Aquarius Élményfürdő watching the sunset paint the sky pink, I realized I’d fallen completely in love with this place and needed to share it with fellow travelers.
Nyíregyháza (pronounced neer-edge-hah-za) sits in northeastern Hungary, away from the typical tourist trail yet brimming with authentic experiences. This guide shares everything I wish I’d known before my first visit – from navigating the incredible zoo to finding the best töltött káposzta in town.
Getting to Nyíregyháza in 2025
Most international travelers arrive via Budapest’s Ferenc Liszt International Airport (BUD). From there, you have several options:
- Train: My preferred method. Direct trains run from Budapest-Nyugati station, taking about 2.5 hours. A one-way ticket costs around 3,900 HUF (about €10). Pro tip: book through the MÁV app for a 10% discount.
- Bus: Volánbusz operates services from Budapest’s Népliget station, taking approximately 3 hours. Tickets cost around 3,700 HUF (€9.50).
- Car rental: The most flexible option, taking about 2 hours via the M3 motorway. Just be aware that parking in downtown Nyíregyháza can be challenging during summer months.
In 2025, the rail service has improved with newer, air-conditioned trains on this route – a welcome upgrade from the older carriages I endured on my first visit!
Local Transportation Updates for 2025
Getting around Nyíregyháza has become easier in 2025:
- The city’s public transportation system now offers a tourist pass for 1,500 HUF (€3.80) per day with unlimited rides.
- New bike-sharing stations have appeared throughout the center, with rentals at 200 HUF (€0.50) per hour.
- Bolt (similar to Uber) operates in the city and is usually cheaper than traditional taxis.
Money-Saving Tip: Download the Nyíregyháza city app (available in English) for free public transport maps and a 20% discount code for Bolt rides from the train station.
Where to Stay: Neighborhoods & Accommodation
I’ve stayed in various parts of Nyíregyháza over the years, and each neighborhood has its own charm:
City Center (Belváros)
The heart of Nyíregyháza, with its beautiful main square (Kossuth tér) and pedestrian streets, is ideal for first-time visitors. Everything is walkable, from restaurants to the main sights.
Recommended stays:
- Hotel Korona – Mid-range hotel with an excellent location and surprisingly good breakfast. Rooms from 24,000 HUF (€60) per night.
- Central Apartment – My go-to when traveling with friends. Spacious, with a kitchen and washing machine. Around 21,000 HUF (€53) per night.
Sóstó Area
Located about 5km from the center, this is where you’ll find the famous Sóstó Zoo, lake, and thermal baths. It’s quieter and more resort-like.
Recommended stays:
- Hotel Sóstó – Right next to the thermal baths with spa access included. Pricier at around 35,000 HUF (€88) per night, but worth it for the location.
- Pangea Hotel – Themed rooms based on different continents, popular with families visiting the zoo. From 28,000 HUF (€70).
Insider Tip: Avoid hotels on the eastern side of the train station (Örökösföld area) unless you’re on a tight budget. The area is perfectly safe, but you’ll spend too much time commuting to the attractions.
Top Attractions in Nyíregyháza for 2025
Sóstó Zoo (Nyíregyházi Állatpark)
Often ranked among Europe’s best zoos, Sóstó Zoo is Nyíregyháza’s crown jewel. Unlike many city zoos, animals here have spacious enclosures in a forest setting. The new Oceanarium that opened in late 2024 is spectacular!
Practical details:
- Admission: 4,600 HUF (€11.50) for adults, 3,000 HUF (€7.50) for children
- Hours: 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM (April-October); 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM (November-March)
- Time needed: At least 4 hours to see everything properly
On my last visit, I arrived right at opening and headed straight to the Green Pyramid (rainforest house) before the crowds – the humidity fogs up everyone’s camera lenses, but the free-roaming monkeys and tropical birds are worth it!
Sóstó Thermal Bath & Aqua Park
The completely renovated Aquarius Élményfürdő combines traditional Hungarian thermal baths with modern water attractions. After a long day of sightseeing, there’s nothing better than soaking in the mineral-rich waters.
Practical details:
- Full-day ticket: 5,200 HUF (€13) weekdays; 6,400 HUF (€16) weekends
- Hours: 9:00 AM – 9:00 PM daily
- Must try: The outdoor thermal pool even in winter – sitting in steaming water while snowflakes fall around you is magical
The medicinal water here has high salt content (hence the name Sóstó, meaning “Salt Lake”) and is said to help with joint pain and skin conditions. I noticed my psoriasis improved significantly after several visits!
The New Hidden Gems for 2025
Nyíregyháza Canopy Walk
Opened in late 2024, this 300-meter elevated walkway through the Sóstói Forest offers a bird’s-eye view of the woodland. At 15 meters high, it’s not for those with a fear of heights, but the views are worth it!
Admission: 2,000 HUF (€5)
Tirpák Cultural Center
This new museum celebrates the Tirpák people (Slovak settlers who shaped Nyíregyháza’s culture). The interactive exhibits explain local traditions, and the rooftop café offers panoramic city views.
Admission: 1,800 HUF (€4.50)
Food & Drink: Where Locals Actually Eat
Hungarian cuisine goes far beyond goulash, and Nyíregyháza offers some exceptional dining experiences at prices that will make Budapest visitors weep with joy.
Traditional Tirpák Cuisine
The local specialty is Tirpák food – a unique blend of Hungarian and Slovak influences:
- Tirpák Borozó (Dózsa György utca 4) – My absolute favorite for authentic local food. Their töltött káposzta (stuffed cabbage) is the best I’ve ever had. Main dishes: 2,500-3,800 HUF (€6-9.50).
- Négy Évszak Étterem (Four Seasons Restaurant) – Locals celebrate special occasions here. Try the Tirpák meat platter. Slightly pricier at 3,500-5,000 HUF (€9-12.50) for mains.
Cafés & Quick Bites
- Caffe Kávé (Dózsa György utca 8) – Hip café with excellent specialty coffee and homemade cakes. My regular morning spot. Coffee: 650-900 HUF (€1.60-2.25).
- Kürtősház (Kossuth tér) – For kürtőskalács (chimney cake), a sweet Hungarian pastry. Around 1,200 HUF (€3).
Local Phrase: When entering restaurants, say “Jó napot kívánok!” (yo nah-pot kee-vah-nok) meaning “Good day!” The staff will immediately appreciate your effort.
Drinking Like a Local
Hungarians love their drinks, and Nyíregyháza has some fantastic options:
- Zip’s Brewhouse (Bocskai utca 25) – Craft beer heaven with rotating taps of local brews. Beer: 950-1,400 HUF (€2.40-3.50).
- Bor Pont (Wine Point) – Cozy wine bar specializing in Tokaj wines from the nearby region. Great for sampling Hungary’s famous sweet aszú wines. Glass of wine: 800-1,800 HUF (€2-4.50).
- Felhősök Tower – Hidden speakeasy-style bar on the top floor of an unassuming building. Must try their pálinka (fruit brandy) tasting flight. 3,200 HUF (€8) for 4 samples.
Food-Related Mistakes I’ve Made
- Ordering at touristy restaurants in Kossuth Square – I paid nearly double what locals do. Instead, walk two blocks in any direction for better food at better prices.
- Not making reservations on weekends – The best restaurants fill up quickly, especially Friday and Saturday evenings. Call ahead or use the Facebook page to reserve.
- Assuming all paprika is spicy – I once ordered “csípős” (spicy) paprika sausage and nearly burned my mouth off. Hungarian spicy is legitimately spicy!
Seasonal Events & Festivals Worth Planning Around
Nyíregyháza’s event calendar has grown impressively in recent years:
VIDOR Festival (August)
My favorite time to visit! This week-long “Cheerfulness and Music” festival transforms the city with free concerts, street performances, and theater shows. The city center becomes one big party with food stalls and craft beer tents.
Tirpák Culinary Festival (September)
Dedicated to local Tirpák cuisine, this weekend festival features cooking competitions, food stalls, and cultural performances. The aroma of slowly-cooking stews fills the air, and you can sample dishes for just a few hundred forints each.
Sóstó Winterland (December-January)
New for 2024-2025! The area around Sóstó transforms into a winter wonderland with ice skating, light installations, and a Christmas market. The thermal baths remain open, creating a magical contrast of steaming pools amid snowy surroundings.
Season | Pros | Cons | Must-Do Activity |
---|---|---|---|
Spring (Mar-May) | Fewer crowds, flowering trees in parks | Can be rainy, some attractions have limited hours | Cycling around Sóstó Lake |
Summer (Jun-Aug) | All attractions open, lively atmosphere, festivals | Busiest season, can be very hot (35°C+) | VIDOR Festival, outdoor concerts |
Fall (Sep-Nov) | Beautiful colors in parks, harvest festivals | Weather becomes unpredictable | Tirpák Culinary Festival |
Winter (Dec-Feb) | Thermal baths are magical, Christmas markets | Cold (-5°C to -15°C), some outdoor attractions closed | Sóstó Winterland, thermal bath visit |
Day Trips from Nyíregyháza
One of Nyíregyháza’s strengths is its location as a base for exploring northeastern Hungary:
Tokaj Wine Region (1 hour drive)
The UNESCO-listed Tokaj region produces some of the world’s finest sweet wines. Several wineries offer tours and tastings, but my favorite is Patricius Winery, where you can explore 500-year-old cellars before sampling their excellent aszú wines.
Getting there: Direct trains run from Nyíregyháza to Tokaj town (40 minutes, 1,400 HUF/€3.50), but a car gives you more flexibility to visit multiple wineries.
Debrecen (50 minutes by train)
Hungary’s second-largest city has a completely different vibe from Nyíregyháza. Must-sees include the Great Reformed Church, MODEM Contemporary Art Center, and the newly renovated Nagyerdő Park with its thermal spa.
Getting there: Trains run hourly (1,200 HUF/€3 one-way).
Kéked Castle and the Zemplén Mountains (1.5 hour drive)
My personal favorite day trip combines nature and history. The 13th-century Kéked Castle is Hungary’s northernmost castle, surrounded by hiking trails through the beautiful Zemplén Mountains. In fall, the foliage rivals New England’s.
Getting there: No public transport, so you’ll need to rent a car or join a tour.
Money-Saving Insider Tips
The Nyíregyháza Card
Available at the tourist office for 2,500 HUF (€6.25), this card offers 20-50% discounts on attractions, selected restaurants, and transportation. It pays for itself with just two attraction visits.
Eat Like a Local
Look for places offering “napi menü” (daily menu) at lunchtime. For 1,800-2,500 HUF (€4.50-6.25), you get a three-course meal that would cost double à la carte. Fehér Ló restaurant has my favorite lunch deal.
Visit on Mondays
Many attractions offer significant Monday discounts to boost visitor numbers on traditionally slow days. Sóstó Zoo is 30% cheaper, and some museums are entirely free.
Sustainability Tip: Bring a reusable water bottle – Nyíregyháza installed public drinking fountains throughout the city center and parks in 2023. The tap water is excellent and safe to drink, saving you around 400 HUF (€1) per bottled water.
Cultural Insights & Local Customs
Understanding local customs will enhance your experience:
Greetings & Etiquette
- Hungarians typically greet with a handshake, maintaining eye contact.
- Removing shoes when entering someone’s home is customary (hosts often provide slippers).
- Tipping is expected – 10% in restaurants, rounding up for taxis, and small amounts for hotel staff.
Local Phrases Worth Knowing
- “Köszönöm” (kuh-suh-nuhm) – Thank you
- “Egészségedre!” (egg-es-shay-ged-reh) – Cheers! (literally “to your health”)
- “Nem beszélek magyarul” (nem bes-say-lek madj-ar-ool) – I don’t speak Hungarian
The Tirpák Heritage
Nyíregyháza’s unique character comes from its Tirpák settlers – Slovak people who arrived in the 18th century to repopulate the area after Ottoman occupation. Their influence remains in the local dialect, cuisine, and architecture. The Lutheran Great Church in the city center stands as testament to their legacy.
Your 5-Step Action Plan for Nyíregyháza
After seven visits, I’ve refined the perfect strategy for experiencing the best of Nyíregyháza:
- Book accommodation in advance – Despite being off the main tourist trail, Nyíregyháza’s best places fill up quickly, especially during summer and festivals. Book at least 2 months ahead for peak season.
- Start with a walking tour of the center – Orient yourself with a stroll around Kossuth Square and the surrounding streets. The tourist office offers free maps with self-guided routes.
- Dedicate a full day to Sóstó area – Combine the zoo in the morning with thermal baths in the afternoon/evening. Trust me, your tired feet will thank you after walking the extensive zoo grounds.
- Arrange a wine tasting experience – Either as a day trip to Tokaj or at Bor Pont wine bar in the city center. Understanding Hungarian wines will enhance your dining experiences.
- Connect with locals – Join the “Nyíregyháza International Friends” Facebook group to find English-speaking events or meetups happening during your stay.
The beauty of Nyíregyháza is that it offers authentic Hungarian experiences without the tourist crowds or inflated prices of Budapest. Every time I return, I discover something new – a hidden courtyard café, a local festival, or an untouched hiking trail just outside the city.
After my first accidental extended stay, I now plan for at least 4-5 days here. It’s enough time to see the main attractions while also experiencing everyday Hungarian life at a relaxed pace. And isn’t that what travel should be about?
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Nyíregyháza safe for solo travelers?
Absolutely. I’ve visited solo multiple times and feel safer walking around Nyíregyháza at night than in many Western European cities. Normal precautions apply, but crime rates are low, and locals are generally helpful to visitors.
Do people speak English in Nyíregyháza?
Less commonly than in Budapest, but you’ll find English speakers in hotels, major attractions, and restaurants in the city center. Young people typically speak at least basic English. Learning a few Hungarian phrases goes a long way in smaller establishments.
What’s the best time of year to visit?
Late May to early October offers the best weather and full operation of attractions. August is ideal if you want to experience the VIDOR Festival, though accommodation prices peak then. I personally love September when the crowds thin but the weather remains pleasant.
Can Nyíregyháza be visited as a day trip from Budapest?
Technically yes, but I strongly advise against it. The 2.5-hour train journey each way leaves you with barely enough time to scratch the surface. Stay at least one night, preferably two or three.
Is Nyíregyháza expensive?
By Hungarian standards, it’s mid-range, but for visitors from Western Europe or North America, it’s very affordable. A quality dinner with wine costs around 5,000-7,000 HUF (€12.50-17.50) per person, museum entries average 1,500-2,000 HUF (€3.75-5), and good accommodation starts at 20,000 HUF (€50) per night.
What souvenirs should I buy in Nyíregyháza?
Look for local Szabolcs apples and apple products (the region is famous for them), handmade embroidery from the surrounding villages, or Tokaji wines. The covered market (Piac) has the best selection of authentic local goods.
How much cash should I bring?
While credit cards are widely accepted in most establishments, smaller places might be cash-only. I typically keep around 30,000 HUF (€75) in cash for smaller purchases, market shopping, and tips.
References & Further Reading
- Official Nyíregyháza Tourism Website – For current events and opening hours
- Sóstó Zoo Official Website – Details on exhibits and conservation efforts
- Aquarius Spa and Waterpark – Information on thermal baths and treatments
- Tokaj Wine Region Tourism – For day trip planning to the nearby wine country
- Hungarian Railways (MÁV) – Train timetables and tickets
- Hungarian Tourism Agency: Nyíregyháza Guide
- Atlas Obscura: Nyíregyházi Állatpark – Interesting facts about the zoo’s unique features
- Cultural Elites: Tirpák Heritage in Nyíregyháza – Deep dive into local cultural history
- Offbeat Budapest: Hungarian Food Guide – Comprehensive explanation of Hungarian dishes you’ll encounter
- Sustainable Travel International: Eastern Hungary Guide – Tips for environmentally conscious travel in the region