Ultimate Cheat Sheet for Assab, Eritrea Travelers (2025) - Local Insights & Practical Tips - Xplrverse

Introduction: Why Assab Should Be On Your Radar

The first time I stepped off the small aircraft onto the tarmac at Assab Airport (ASM), I was utterly unprepared for what awaited me. The searing heat hit like a physical wall, my carefully planned itinerary quickly fell apart, and I found myself completely captivated by this little-known Eritrean port city. After seven visits over the past decade, I’ve developed a deep connection with Assab’s unique charm, complex history, and resilient people. What was initially intended as a one-time business trip has evolved into a recurring journey that feels like returning to a second home.

Nestled on the Red Sea coast, Assab offers a fascinating blend of colonial architecture, traditional Afar culture, and stunning maritime landscapes that few Western travelers ever experience. Trust me when I say that the challenges of getting here are vastly outweighed by the rewards of discovering one of East Africa’s most overlooked destinations.

This guide isn’t just a collection of tourist suggestions—it’s a comprehensive cheat sheet born from my own mistakes, discoveries, and the invaluable wisdom shared by local friends who’ve shown me the real Assab beyond the limited information you’ll find in conventional travel resources. Whether you’re visiting for business, research, or the increasingly rare form of adventurous tourism, I’m sharing everything I wish someone had told me before my first visit.

Essential Travel Information for Assab

Current Entry Requirements (2025 Updates)

Eritrea’s visa process remains one of the most challenging aspects of planning your trip. As of 2025, the government has marginally simplified some procedures, but preparation is still crucial:

Travel Permits: Beyond your Eritrean visa, you need a specific travel permit to visit Assab. This must be arranged through the Eritrean Immigration Office in Asmara.
Documentation: Bring multiple passport photos, copies of your passport, and your hotel reservations. Local authorities may request these at checkpoints.
COVID Protocols: While most global restrictions have eased, Eritrea maintains certain health screening procedures. Check with the U.S. Embassy in Eritrea for the latest requirements.

Insider Tip: The visa application asks for a local contact. If you’re staying at a hotel, you can list them, but having a genuine local contact will significantly smooth your entry process. On my third visit, my friend Ibrahim’s name on my application cut my wait time at immigration from 2 hours to 15 minutes.

Getting to Assab

Reaching Assab has become slightly easier in 2025, but it remains a destination that requires determination:

By Air: Eritrean Airlines operates limited flights from Asmara to Assab Airport (ASM). These flights are infrequent (currently twice weekly) and often subject to schedule changes.
By Sea: Cargo vessels occasionally accept passengers from Massawa to Assab along the coastal route. This takes 2-3 days but offers incredible views of the Red Sea coastline.
Overland: Due to border tensions, land routes are generally not recommended and may be restricted for foreigners.

Money-Saving Tip #1: Book Eritrean Airlines flights directly through their office in Asmara rather than online. You’ll save approximately 15-20% on fares, though this requires having someone in Asmara assist you or arriving in the capital first.

Understanding Assab’s Cultural Landscape

Local Customs and Etiquette

Assab’s population is predominantly Afar, with influences from decades of Italian colonization and more recent Tigrinya cultural elements. Understanding these dynamics will significantly enhance your experience:

Greetings: Begin interactions with “Assalam aleykum” (peace be upon you) and wait for the response “Waleykum assalam.” Even this simple gesture earns immediate respect.
Photography: Always ask permission before photographing people or government buildings. I learned this lesson harshly when my camera was temporarily confiscated near the port in 2019.
Dress Code: Eritrea is relatively conservative. Both men and women should avoid shorts and revealing clothing, especially outside tourist areas.

Cultural Insight: If invited to an Afar home, remove your shoes before entering and accept at least some food or coffee when offered. Declining hospitality can be perceived as an insult. The phrase “Gaddia Mahaba” (thank you very much) will be deeply appreciated.

Language Essentials

While Arabic and Afar are the predominant languages in Assab, you’ll find varying levels of English and Italian spoken, particularly among those working in transportation, hotels, and government offices.

Useful Phrase	Afar Pronunciation	Situation to Use
“Assalam aleykum”	ah-sah-LAM ah-LAY-koom	General greeting
“Gaddia Mahaba”	GAD-dee-ah mah-HAH-bah	Thank you very much
“Ma’abuu’tta”	mah-ah-BOO-tah	How are you?
“Meqe le”	MEH-keh leh	I’m fine
“Hagay male”	hah-GAY mah-LEH	No problem

Accommodation Options in Assab

Assab’s accommodation options have improved slightly since my first visit, though they remain limited by international standards. Don’t expect luxury, but you can find comfortable places to stay:

Best Places to Stay

Hotel Assab: The city’s primary hotel for foreign visitors, located near the central market. Air conditioning is reliable (crucial in Assab’s heat), and rooms start at 1,200 Nakfa (approximately $80 USD) per night. Request a sea-facing room on the upper floor for better breezes and views.
Red Sea Pension: A simpler but clean option with rooms from 850 Nakfa ($55 USD). The shared bathrooms are a drawback, but it’s well-maintained, and the owner, Tekle, is an invaluable source of local information.
Private Homestays: For longer stays, locals sometimes rent rooms in their homes. This requires local connections but offers the most authentic experience and better rates (typically 500-700 Nakfa/$30-45 USD per night).

Money-Saving Tip #2: Negotiate weekly rates at Hotel Assab if staying more than three nights. They rarely advertise this, but I’ve consistently secured 20-25% discounts on longer stays simply by asking and offering to pay in advance.

Accommodation Challenges to Prepare For

Assab’s infrastructure faces challenges that directly impact accommodations:

Power Outages: Electricity is inconsistent throughout Assab. Better hotels have generators, but they typically run them only during evening hours (6 PM – 11 PM).
Water Availability: Showers may only have water during specific hours. Ask at reception when checking in so you can plan accordingly.
Internet Access: As of 2025, internet remains extremely limited and unreliable. Hotel Assab has the most consistent connection, but expect frequent outages and very slow speeds.

Sustainability Tip: Bring a portable water filter like a LifeStraw. You’ll save hundreds of Nakfa on bottled water while reducing plastic waste in a city with limited recycling infrastructure. I use mine to filter tap water for drinking and teeth-brushing, saving approximately $10 daily on bottled water.

Navigating Assab: Transportation & Logistics

Getting Around the City

Assab is relatively compact, making many sites walkable, but the intense heat (often exceeding 40°C/104°F) makes alternative transportation worth considering:

Shared Taxis: These white Toyota Corollas operate on set routes for 15 Nakfa ($1) per person. Flag them down anywhere along their route, which typically runs from the port area to the market and residential districts.
Private Taxis: Recognizable by their blue color, these cost 150-200 Nakfa ($10-13) for trips within the city. Always negotiate before entering.
Motorcycle Taxis: The fastest option for navigating Assab’s sometimes narrow streets. Expect to pay 75-100 Nakfa ($5-7) per trip. I prefer these for shorter distances, especially during the busy market hours.

Money Matters

Handling finances in Assab requires advance planning:

Cash Economy: Assab operates almost exclusively on cash. Credit cards are not accepted anywhere as of 2025.
Currency: The Eritrean Nakfa (ERN) is the official currency. The current official exchange rate is approximately 15 Nakfa to 1 USD, but the black market rate is closer to 60:1.
Banking: The Commercial Bank of Eritrea has a branch in Assab where you can exchange money officially, but bringing euros or US dollars and exchanging through trusted local contacts will give you a much better rate.

Money-Saving Tip #3: Exchange only small amounts of money officially at the bank to show legitimate transactions on arrival. For your primary expenses, ask your hotel manager or a trusted guide to facilitate exchanges at better rates. This typically yields 3-4 times more Nakfa for your foreign currency. During my last visit, I received 58 Nakfa per dollar through my hotel contact versus 15 at the bank—effectively reducing all my local expenses by 75%.

Must-See Places in Assab

Historical & Cultural Sites

Despite its small size, Assab contains fascinating historical layers:

Italian Colonial Architecture: Walking through downtown Assab reveals the city’s Italian colonial past. The former Governor’s Residence and administrative buildings near Assab Port showcase distinctive 1930s Italian design elements.
Ancient Afar Settlements: Just 7km outside the city, you’ll find remains of traditional Afar dwellings that predate the colonial era. Accessible by taxi (200 Nakfa round trip), these provide insight into indigenous building techniques.
Ottoman-era Fort: Although partially ruined, this small fortress on the northern edge of town offers excellent views over the harbor and stands as evidence of historical Ottoman influence.

Natural Attractions

The natural landscape surrounding Assab offers striking contrasts:

Assab Bay: The sheltered waters of the bay provide essential habitat for diverse marine life. Early morning walks along the shoreline near Hotel Assab offer chances to see local fishermen returning with their catch.
Volcanic Landscapes: The drive to Irafayle (about 40km north) passes through dramatic volcanic terrain with distinctively shaped rock formations. Arrange a half-day trip for around 1,800 Nakfa ($120) including driver.
Buri Peninsula: For the adventurous, this sparsely populated headland contains pristine beaches and excellent snorkeling opportunities. Permission from local authorities is required.

Personal Experience: My most memorable Assab moment came at sunset on the Buri Peninsula. After a challenging drive across rough terrain, we reached a completely empty white sand beach where the contrasting colors of the volcanic rock, white sand, and turquoise water created an otherworldly landscape. The complete silence—broken only by gentle waves—provided a profound sense of remoteness I’ve rarely experienced elsewhere.

Local Cuisine & Dining Tips

What to Eat in Assab

Assab’s cuisine reflects its coastal location and cultural influences:

Seafood: Fresh fish, especially kingfish and grouper, is the local specialty. The small restaurants near the port serve the day’s catch grilled with minimal seasoning—simple but extraordinarily fresh.
Zigni: This spicy beef stew is typically served with injera (sourdough flatbread). Find it at Eritrean restaurants like Asmara Restaurant on the main street, where a full meal costs around 200 Nakfa ($13).
Pasta: The Italian influence remains strong in local cuisine. Many eateries serve pasta with seafood or meat sauces at surprisingly affordable prices (typically 120-150 Nakfa/$8-10).

Where to Eat

Red Sea Restaurant: Located near the port, this unassuming spot serves the freshest seafood in town. No menu—just the daily catch prepared simply. A full meal costs around 300 Nakfa ($20).
Selam Café: On Independence Avenue, this local favorite offers excellent coffee (15 Nakfa/$1) and breakfast options. Their shahan-ful (fava bean dish) is particularly good.
Hotel Assab Restaurant: The safest but most expensive option, with international-style dishes adapted to available ingredients. Main courses range from 250-400 Nakfa ($17-27).

Sensory Detail: The aroma of berbere spice and freshly brewed coffee wafts through Assab’s streets each morning. Follow your nose to small doorways where women tend traditional coffee ceremonies, roasting beans over charcoal braziers. The scent is an intoxicating blend of coffee, incense, and the salty sea air that permeates everything in this coastal city.

Health and Safety Considerations

Staying Healthy

Assab’s climate and limited medical facilities require preparation:

Heat Management: Temperatures regularly exceed 40°C/104°F. Dehydration and heat stroke are genuine risks. Drink minimum 4-5 liters of water daily.
Medical Supplies: Bring all necessary medications plus basics like antibiotics, anti-diarrheals, and rehydration salts. Assab’s pharmacy supplies are limited and inconsistent.
Food Safety: Stick to thoroughly cooked foods and peeled fruits. I’ve had the most success with freshly grilled seafood and avoiding raw vegetables.

Security Awareness

While Assab is generally safe for visitors, certain precautions are essential:

Photography Restrictions: Never photograph military personnel, government buildings, or the port area. This can result in detention and equipment confiscation.
Documentation: Carry your passport and travel permit copies at all times. Police checkpoints are common.
Political Discussions: Avoid political conversations, especially regarding government policies or regional tensions.

Personal Mistake: On my second visit, I casually took photos near the port without realizing how sensitive this area is. A plainclothes security officer immediately approached, detained me for questioning, and reviewed all photos on my camera. The situation was resolved after several uncomfortable hours only because my local contact vouched for me. Now I explicitly ask hotel staff which areas are acceptable for photography.

Hidden Gems & Authentic Experiences

Off-the-Beaten-Path Discoveries

These lesser-known experiences provide deeper insight into local life:

Dawn Fish Market: Between 5:30-7:00 AM at the small harbor, fishermen sell their catch directly from boats. This isn’t a tourist attraction but a genuine local commercial exchange where you’ll see restaurateurs selecting their daily offerings.
Artisan Workshops: In the eastern neighborhood near the old mosque, several metalworkers create traditional Afar knives and jewelry. These small workshops welcome visitors interested in their craftsmanship.
Seasonal Salt Harvesting: From January to March, visit the salt flats 15km south of Assab where traditional salt harvesting continues using methods unchanged for centuries.

Cultural Immersion Opportunities

To truly understand Assab, seek these cultural experiences:

Coffee Ceremonies: Accept any invitation to a traditional coffee ceremony in a local home. These multi-hour rituals involve roasting, grinding, and brewing coffee beans while sharing conversation and community news.
Friday Markets: The weekly market expands significantly on Fridays, bringing traders from surrounding areas. Arrive before 10 AM to see the full range of goods, from livestock to textiles.
Fishing Excursions: For approximately 500 Nakfa ($33), local fishermen will take you out in traditional wooden boats. Beyond the fishing experience, these trips offer incredible views of Assab from the water.

Authentic Experience: During my fourth visit, I spent an afternoon with an elderly Afar craftsman who specializes in making traditional gile knives. Communication was limited to gestures and my few Afar phrases, but he patiently demonstrated each step of the forging process. The small knife he insisted I take as a gift remains one of my most treasured possessions, not just as a souvenir but as a reminder of genuine cross-cultural connection.

Practical Tips for a Smooth Visit

Communication Challenges

Staying connected in Assab requires planning:

Mobile Service: ErCell is the only mobile provider. SIM cards cost 50 Nakfa ($3) and are available at the ErCell office near the city center. Bring your passport for registration.
Internet Access: As mentioned earlier, internet is extremely limited. Hotel Assab offers the most reliable connection but expect slow speeds and frequent outages.
International Calls: WhatsApp calls rarely work due to bandwidth limitations. The ErCell office provides international calling services at approximately 30 Nakfa ($2) per minute.

Packing Essentials

Based on my experiences, these items are non-negotiable for Assab travel:

Portable Power Bank: Essential for keeping devices charged during frequent power outages.
Sun Protection: High SPF sunscreen, wide-brimmed hat, and light, long-sleeved clothing. The UV index is extreme year-round.
Cash: Bring more US dollars or euros than you think you’ll need. There are no ATMs that accept international cards.
Basic Medications: Pack a comprehensive medical kit including prescription medications, pain relievers, anti-diarrheals, and antibiotics.
Water Purification: Either tablets, a portable filter, or both. Bottled water is available but expensive and creates waste.

Personal Mistake: During my first visit, I brought only a small amount of cash, assuming I could withdraw more or use credit cards in emergencies. This was completely impossible. I ended up having to borrow money from a business contact, which was professionally embarrassing. Now I bring sufficient cash divided between different secure locations on my person and in luggage.

Seasonal Considerations

Best Times to Visit

Assab’s climate is hot year-round, but certain seasons offer advantages:

October-December: The most comfortable period with daytime temperatures “only” around 30-35°C (86-95°F) and lower humidity. Sea breezes make evenings pleasant.
January-March: Slightly cooler but windier. This period offers the clearest water visibility for snorkeling and diving.
April-September: Extremely hot, with temperatures regularly exceeding 40°C (104°F). Only visit during these months if absolutely necessary.

Seasonal Events Worth Experiencing

Month	Event	Description
January	Orthodox Christmas	Celebrated by Tigrinya community with church services and community meals
March/April (varies)	Ramadan	The Muslim majority observes fasting; businesses may have reduced hours
May 24	Independence Day	National holiday with parades and celebrations throughout the city
September 1	Revolution Day	Commemorates the start of the independence struggle with cultural performances

Weather Note: I once visited in July and found the heat nearly unbearable—walking even short distances became exhausting, and power outages meant air conditioning was unreliable. If you must visit during summer months, plan all activities for early morning or evening, and expect to spend midday hours resting indoors.

Conclusion: Making the Most of Your Assab Adventure

Visiting Assab isn’t for everyone—it challenges you with limited infrastructure, bureaucratic hurdles, and harsh climate conditions. Yet for those willing to embrace these challenges, it offers rare rewards: landscapes of otherworldly beauty, cultural experiences untouched by mass tourism, and the profound satisfaction of exploring a place few outsiders ever see.

My seven visits have taught me that the key to enjoying Assab lies in managing expectations while remaining open to unexpected discoveries. The relationships I’ve formed with locals have transformed what began as merely a destination into something more meaningful—a place that continually draws me back despite (or perhaps because of) its complications.

Your 5-Step Action Plan for Assab

Start Visa Process Early: Begin your visa application and travel permit requests at least 3 months before intended travel. Contact the Eritrean Embassy in your country to understand current requirements.
Secure Local Contacts: Reach out to your accommodation to help arrange airport pickup and local guidance. Having someone meet you upon arrival makes everything smoother.
Prepare a Communication Plan: Inform family or colleagues about limited communication possibilities. Set expectations for when you’ll be in touch.
Exchange Currency Strategically: Bring sufficient cash and develop a plan for both official and informal exchanges to maximize your budget.
Pack for Self-Sufficiency: Assume you won’t be able to purchase forgotten essentials. Pack medications, adaptable clothing, and backup power solutions.

As you prepare for your journey to this remarkable corner of the Horn of Africa, remember that flexibility is your greatest asset. The transportation delay that seems disastrous might lead to your most memorable encounter; the communication challenge that frustrates you initially might result in deeper cultural understanding.

Assab rewards the patient, adaptable traveler with experiences that remain vivid long after the challenges have faded from memory. I still recall the taste of freshly caught fish grilled over open flames, the silent majesty of star-filled skies undiminished by light pollution, and most of all, the generous spirit of people who have endured hardships yet welcome visitors with genuine warmth.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Assab safe for foreign visitors?

Yes, Assab is generally safe regarding personal security and violent crime. The primary safety concerns are health-related (heat, limited medical facilities) and inadvertently violating local regulations, particularly regarding photography and restricted areas. Follow local guidance, respect photography restrictions, and maintain awareness of your surroundings.

Can I visit Assab independently, or do I need a guide?

While not officially required, having a local guide significantly enhances the experience and helps navigate bureaucratic challenges. Independent travel is possible but prepare for frequent document checks and limited English speaking outside hotels and government offices. I recommend at least arranging airport pickup and an orientation tour upon arrival.

What’s the current political situation affecting Assab in 2025?

The political landscape continues to evolve. As of early 2025, relations between Eritrea and neighboring countries have stabilized somewhat, but regional tensions still impact travel logistics. Check with your country’s foreign ministry for current travel advisories, and be aware that situations can change rapidly. The U.S. Embassy in Eritrea maintains updated information for travelers.

How much money should I budget for a week in Assab?

For mid-range accommodations, meals, and modest activities, budget approximately $100-150 per day if exchanging currency at unofficial rates (which most visitors do). This includes about $80 for accommodation, $30-40 for meals, and $30 for local transportation and activities. Prices are higher if you exchange money only through official channels.

Is it possible to combine Assab with visits to other parts of Eritrea?

Yes, many visitors combine Assab with Asmara and Massawa. Internal travel permits are required for each destination. The typical route involves flying into Asmara, spending several days there, then either flying or taking boat transportation to Assab. Allow 10-14 days for this comprehensive itinerary, including buffer time for potential transportation delays.

Are there any specific cultural taboos I should be aware of?

Several important considerations: avoid public displays of affection; dress modestly (covered shoulders and knees at minimum); ask permission before photographing people; remove shoes when entering homes; and use your right hand for eating and greeting. Political discussions should be avoided, particularly criticisms of government policies.

What transportation options exist between Assab and other Eritrean cities?

As of 2025, Eritrean Airlines operates twice-weekly flights between Asmara and Assab. Boat transportation between Massawa and Assab is available but irregular. There is no reliable public land transportation between major cities for tourists due to permit requirements and security concerns.

Can I access the internet or make international calls from Assab?

Internet access exists but is extremely limited, slow, and unreliable. Hotel Assab offers the most consistent connection. Mobile service through ErCell allows calls within Eritrea, but international calling is best done through the ErCell office. WhatsApp and other internet-based calling services frequently fail due to bandwidth limitations.