Introduction: My Love Affair with Paraguay’s University City
The first time I stepped foot in San Lorenzo back in 2018, I was overwhelmed. What was supposed to be a quick day trip from Asunción turned into a week-long adventure that completely changed my Paraguay itinerary. I remember standing in the bustling Mercado Municipal, surrounded by vendors calling out prices in Guaraní and Spanish, the sweet scent of chipa in the air, completely lost but utterly enchanted. Seven visits later, San Lorenzo has become my favorite Paraguayan city outside the capital – a place where university energy meets traditional culture in the most authentic way possible.
This cheat sheet compiles everything I wish I’d known before my first visit to this underrated gem just 9km from Asunción. From navigating local transportation to finding the best places to eat, drink, and experience real Paraguayan life, I’m sharing all my hard-earned knowledge so you can avoid my mistakes and discover the real San Lorenzo in 2025.
Getting to San Lorenzo: Transportation Guide
San Lorenzo sits just 9km (about 5.6 miles) east of Asunción, making it an easy trip from the Paraguayan capital. Here’s how to get there without hassle:
From Silvio Pettirossi International Airport (ASU)
If you’re flying into Paraguay, you’ll arrive at Silvio Pettirossi International Airport (ASU). The good news? You’re already close to San Lorenzo!
- Taxi: Costs around 80,000-100,000 Gs (approximately $11-14 USD). Always negotiate before getting in or ask for the meter to be used. I once made the rookie mistake of not confirming the price and ended up paying nearly double!
- Rideshare: Uber and MUV operate in Paraguay. Generally cheaper than taxis at 60,000-80,000 Gs ($8-11 USD) depending on time of day.
- Public Bus: The budget option at only 4,500 Gs (about $0.60 USD), but requires a transfer in Asunción and takes significantly longer.
From Asunción
If you’re already in Asunción, you have more options:
- City Bus: Lines 18, 38, and 30 all serve San Lorenzo from various points in Asunción. Cost is just 4,500 Gs each way. Look for buses labeled “San Lorenzo” on their windshield.
- Taxi/Rideshare: Costs between 40,000-60,000 Gs ($5.50-8.50 USD) depending on your exact location in Asunción.
Money-Saving Tip #1: For the ultimate budget travel between Asunción and San Lorenzo, take the bus during non-peak hours. Not only will you avoid the crushing crowds of rush hour, but you’ll also experience how locals travel. Just keep your valuables secure and be prepared for a warm ride in summer months!
Getting Around San Lorenzo
Once you’re in San Lorenzo, getting around is relatively straightforward. The city isn’t huge, but it’s spread out enough that walking everywhere isn’t always practical.
Local Transportation Options
Transportation Type | Cost (2025) | Pros | Cons |
---|---|---|---|
City Bus | 4,500 Gs ($0.60 USD) | Cheapest option, frequent service | Can be crowded, routes confusing for visitors |
Mototaxi | 15,000-20,000 Gs ($2-3 USD) for short trips | Fast, can navigate traffic | Less safe, no protection from weather |
Taxi | 20,000-40,000 Gs ($3-5.50 USD) within San Lorenzo | Comfortable, direct service | More expensive, some drivers may overcharge tourists |
Walking | Free | Best for exploring central areas | Hot during summer, some areas not pedestrian-friendly |
I learned during my third visit that you can download the free Moovit app which has surprisingly good coverage of local bus routes in San Lorenzo. This was a game-changer for navigating the city like a local!
Local Phrase #1: “¿Cuánto cuesta hasta…?” (How much to…?) – Essential for negotiating taxi fares.
Local Phrase #2: “¿Este colectivo va a…?” (Does this bus go to…?) – Helpful when confirming bus routes.
Where to Stay in San Lorenzo
San Lorenzo doesn’t have the huge range of accommodation options you’ll find in Asunción, but what it lacks in quantity it makes up for in authenticity and value. During my visits, I’ve stayed everywhere from simple hostels to mid-range hotels to a lovely homestay with a Paraguayan family.
Best Neighborhoods to Stay
- Centro: Near the National University and main plaza. Most convenient for first-time visitors.
- Reducto: More residential, quieter area with better value accommodation.
- Near Avenida Mcal. Estigarribia: The main commercial avenue, convenient for shopping and dining.
Accommodation Options
Budget Options
Residencial San Lorenzo – Basic but clean rooms starting at 120,000 Gs ($17 USD) per night. Located just two blocks from the main plaza. No website, but you can call for reservations: +595 21 575-XXX.
Homestays – My personal favorite way to experience San Lorenzo. Local families offer rooms in their homes for around 150,000-200,000 Gs ($21-28 USD) per night, often including breakfast. You’ll need to book these through local contacts or Airbnb.
Mid-Range Options
Hotel Del Centro – Comfortable rooms with A/C and WiFi starting at 280,000 Gs ($39 USD). Located near the university. They’ve recently renovated in 2024, and the new rooms are significantly improved.
Aparthotel San Lorenzo – Apartment-style accommodations with kitchenettes starting at 350,000 Gs ($49 USD). Perfect for longer stays.
Money-Saving Tip #2: Most hotels offer a significant discount (often 15-20%) for stays of 3+ nights. Always ask about extended stay rates, even if you’re just staying for 3 nights. On my second visit, simply asking saved me almost $60 over a 4-night stay!
My Personal Mistake #1
During my first visit, I stayed in Asunción and tried to visit San Lorenzo as a day trip. This was a huge mistake! Not only did I waste time and money commuting, but I completely missed experiencing San Lorenzo’s evening atmosphere when university students fill the cafes and bars. Don’t repeat my error – stay in San Lorenzo for at least a couple of nights.
Top Things to Do in San Lorenzo
San Lorenzo isn’t overflowing with traditional tourist attractions, but that’s precisely its charm. Instead, it offers a genuine slice of Paraguayan urban life, especially its university culture.
Must-Visit Locations
1. Universidad Nacional de Asunción
The National University is the heart and soul of San Lorenzo. Even if you’re not a student, walking through the sprawling campus gives you a feel for Paraguayan academic life. The grounds are pleasant to stroll, and there’s often cultural events happening. I still remember watching an impromptu student guitar performance under the shade of a lapacho tree that was absolutely magical.
2. Mercado Municipal de San Lorenzo
The city’s main market is a feast for the senses. Located on Calle Mcal. Estigarribia, the market is where locals shop for everything from fresh produce to clothing. The food section is particularly worth exploring, with stalls selling traditional Paraguayan ingredients and ready-to-eat foods.
The mercado has recently expanded in 2024, adding a new section for artisanal crafts. Visit in the morning (before 11 am) when it’s most active and the produce is freshest.
3. Plaza Cerro Corá
The main square is a hub of activity, especially on weekends. Named after the site of Paraguay’s final battle in the devastating War of the Triple Alliance, the plaza features monuments to national heroes. It’s also where locals gather in the evenings to drink terere (cold mate tea) and socialize.
In 2025, the city has added new seating areas and expanded the weekend artisan fair that takes place here on Saturdays.
4. Iglesia San Lorenzo Mártir
This historic church facing the main plaza dates back to the early 20th century and is named for the city’s patron saint. The interior is simple but peaceful, featuring some lovely wooden carvings. Even if you’re not religious, it’s worth popping in to see this important local landmark and experience a moment of tranquility.
5. Parque Ecológico Ñu Guasu
While technically located between San Lorenzo and Luque, this large ecological park is easily accessible from San Lorenzo and offers a welcome respite from urban life. Locals come here to exercise on the walking trails, have picnics, or just relax under the trees. The park has significantly improved its facilities since my first visit, with new paths and exercise stations added in 2024.
Off-the-Beaten-Path Experiences
1. Arroyo San Lorenzo
Few tourists ever visit this stream that runs through parts of the city, but local students often gather along its banks in certain sections to study or socialize. The area near the Defender del Chaco avenue bridge has been recently cleaned up and is a pleasant spot.
2. Biblioteca Municipal
The city’s public library isn’t just for books – it regularly hosts cultural events, small art exhibitions, and workshops. Check their bulletin board for current activities. I once stumbled upon a fascinating exhibition of historical photos of San Lorenzo that gave me wonderful insight into how the city has evolved.
3. Universidad Católica “Nuestra Señora de la Asunción” – Campus San Lorenzo
While the National University gets most of the attention, the Catholic University’s San Lorenzo campus also hosts interesting cultural events that are often open to the public, especially film screenings and theatrical performances.
Local Phrase #3: “¿Hay algún evento cultural hoy?” (Is there any cultural event today?) – Perfect for finding out about local happenings.
My Personal Mistake #2
On my second visit, I stuck too closely to the main areas and missed the charming residential neighborhoods just a few blocks from the center. These areas, particularly the streets around Calle Saturio Ríos, offer a glimpse into everyday Paraguayan life that you won’t find in any guidebook. Taking random walks through these neighborhoods has led to some of my most memorable encounters with friendly locals.
Where to Eat: Best Food in San Lorenzo
San Lorenzo’s food scene has evolved significantly since my first visit. While still not a culinary capital, it offers plenty of opportunities to sample authentic Paraguayan cuisine at prices far lower than in Asunción.
Traditional Paraguayan Food
Comedor Doña Julia
Located just two blocks from the main plaza on Calle Mcal. López, this unassuming local restaurant serves some of the best traditional Paraguayan food in the city. Their sopa paraguaya (a solid corn bread) is exceptional, and the daily puchero (beef stew) on Thursdays is worth planning your schedule around. Lunch for two with drinks will cost around 80,000 Gs ($11 USD).
Mercado Municipal Food Stalls
For the most authentic (and budget-friendly) food experience, head to the food section of the municipal market. Various stalls serve different Paraguayan specialties. My favorites include:
- Puesto #14 – Known for their mbeju (starchy pancake made from mandioca flour and cheese)
- Puesto #23 – Serves excellent vori vori (corn and cheese dumplings in chicken soup)
- Puesto #8 – The place for fresh chipa (cheese bread)
Expect to pay just 15,000-25,000 Gs ($2-3.50 USD) for a filling meal at these stalls.
Modern Dining Options
Café Universitario
This trendy café near the university has become a student favorite since opening in 2023. They serve excellent coffee, light meals, and some creative fusion dishes that blend Paraguayan ingredients with international techniques. Their terere smoothies (a modern take on Paraguay’s traditional yerba mate drink) are refreshing and unique. Prices are moderate, with most dishes between 30,000-45,000 Gs ($4-6.50 USD).
La Esquina Restaurant
Located on the corner of Mcal. Estigarribia and Del Maestro, this mid-range restaurant serves both Paraguayan and international dishes. Their grilled meats are excellent, particularly the vacío (flank steak). Dinner will cost around 70,000-100,000 Gs ($10-14 USD) per person excluding drinks.
Money-Saving Tip #3: Look for restaurants offering an “Ejecutivo” lunch menu. These set meals typically include a main dish, side, and sometimes a simple dessert for a fixed price of around 35,000-45,000 Gs ($5-6.50 USD). They’re only available during lunch hours (usually 11:30am-2:00pm) and represent the best value for a proper sit-down meal.
My Personal Mistake #3
During my early visits, I was hesitant to try the small, family-run comedores (eateries) because they looked too basic from the outside. What a mistake! These places often serve the most authentic and delicious food at the best prices. I now make a point to look for places with simple plastic chairs, no English menus, and lots of local customers – they never disappoint.
Street Food You Must Try
San Lorenzo has a vibrant street food scene, particularly around the university and main plaza. Look for these traditional treats:
- Chipa – Cheesy bread rings, best when fresh and warm (3,000-5,000 Gs / $0.40-0.70 USD)
- Empanadas – Fried or baked pastries with various fillings (8,000-10,000 Gs / $1.10-1.40 USD)
- Mbeju – Starchy pancake made from mandioca starch and cheese (10,000 Gs / $1.40 USD)
- Cocido – Hot yerba mate with burnt sugar and milk, perfect for cooler mornings (12,000 Gs / $1.70 USD)
Practical Information for Travelers
Money Matters
The Paraguayan currency is the Guaraní (Gs). As of 2025, the exchange rate is approximately 7,100 Gs to 1 USD, though this fluctuates.
- ATMs: There are several banks with ATMs on Mcal. Estigarribia Avenue. Banco Itaú and Banco Continental typically have the most reliable ATMs for international cards.
- Cash vs. Cards: While larger establishments accept credit cards, small shops, markets, and transportation generally require cash. Always keep some Guaraníes on hand.
- Tipping: Not strictly expected but appreciated. 10% is generous in restaurants.
Safety Tips
San Lorenzo is generally safe for visitors, but like any urban area, it’s wise to take precautions:
- Avoid displaying expensive electronics or jewelry, especially around the market and bus terminals
- Use official taxis or rideshare apps, particularly at night
- Keep valuables secure and be aware of your surroundings when using ATMs
- The area immediately around the university is generally safe even in the evening due to student presence
Weather and When to Visit
San Lorenzo has a subtropical climate with distinct seasons:
- Summer (December-February): Hot and humid with temperatures regularly exceeding 35°C (95°F). Afternoon thunderstorms are common.
- Fall (March-May): Pleasant temperatures between 18-28°C (64-82°F) with decreasing humidity.
- Winter (June-August): Mild with occasional cold snaps. Temperatures typically range from 10-22°C (50-72°F).
- Spring (September-November): Warming temperatures and increasing humidity.
The best times to visit are April-May and September-October when the weather is most pleasant. I’ve visited during all seasons, and while summer can be oppressively hot, the advantage is that many students are on break, making accommodations more available.
Internet and Connectivity
Wi-Fi is widely available in cafes, restaurants, and accommodations. For mobile data, you can purchase a local SIM card from providers like Tigo or Personal. A basic data package (5-10GB) costs around 70,000-100,000 Gs ($10-14 USD) and can be purchased at any of their shops on Mcal. Estigarribia Avenue.
Sustainable Travel Tips
San Lorenzo, like many Paraguayan cities, is working to address environmental challenges. Here’s how you can travel more sustainably (while also saving money):
- Use public transportation instead of taxis when possible
- Bring a reusable water bottle – tap water is not recommended for drinking, but many establishments will refill bottles with filtered water
- Support small, local businesses rather than international chains
- Consider homestays rather than hotels – they typically use fewer resources and provide a more authentic experience
- Participate in local environmental initiatives – the university sometimes organizes community clean-up events that welcome visitor participation
Post-Pandemic Changes (2025 Update)
San Lorenzo has seen several changes since the pandemic:
- Many restaurants now offer expanded outdoor seating areas
- Digital payment options have become more widely accepted, even in smaller establishments
- The municipal market has implemented improved ventilation systems
- Public buses are generally less crowded than pre-pandemic as some routes have added more vehicles
- Prices have increased approximately 15-20% since 2022, particularly for accommodations and dining
Conclusion: Your 5-Step San Lorenzo Action Plan
After seven visits to San Lorenzo, I’ve distilled my experiences into this actionable plan for making the most of your visit. Paraguay’s university city may not be on most tourist itineraries, but that’s precisely why it offers such an authentic experience. Far from the well-trodden South American tourist trail, San Lorenzo provides a window into contemporary Paraguayan life that few visitors ever see.
Your 5-Step Action Plan:
- Base yourself centrally – Book accommodation near Plaza Cerro Corá or the university for easy access to everything San Lorenzo has to offer. Contact places directly for the best rates.
- Start with a walking tour – Spend your first morning walking the area between the main plaza and the university to orient yourself. Don’t hesitate to greet locals with a friendly “Adió” (informal hello in Paraguayan Spanish).
- Dive into local flavors – Have at least one meal at the Mercado Municipal food stalls and try a different Paraguayan specialty each day. Ask vendors to explain the dishes – they’re usually proud to share their culinary traditions.
- Connect with university life – Visit the National University campus, sit in a student café, and check notice boards for cultural events that might be happening during your stay.
- Explore beyond the center – Take at least one half-day to visit Ñu Guasu park or explore the residential neighborhoods that show a different side of the city.
What makes San Lorenzo special isn’t grand attractions but rather its rhythm of everyday life, its university atmosphere, and the warmth of its people. Give yourself time to absorb these qualities rather than rushing through a checklist of sights.
The sounds of students debating over terere, the aroma of chipa baking in the morning, the friendly curiosity of locals when they hear a foreign accent – these are the sensory memories that will stay with you long after you’ve left Paraguay. San Lorenzo may be just 9km from Asunción, but it offers a distinctly different experience of Paraguay that’s well worth your time.
Frequently Asked Questions About San Lorenzo
Is San Lorenzo worth visiting if I’m already staying in Asunción?
Absolutely! While Asunción has more historical attractions, San Lorenzo offers a more authentic, less touristy experience of contemporary Paraguayan life. The university atmosphere creates a dynamic energy you won’t find in the capital, and prices for food and shopping are generally lower. I’d recommend at least a full day visit, but staying overnight allows you to experience the evening café culture.
Do people speak English in San Lorenzo?
English is not widely spoken outside university circles. You’ll find some English speakers among university students and in hotels, but for most interactions, basic Spanish is very helpful. Learning a few key phrases in Guaraní (the indigenous language spoken alongside Spanish) will earn you extra appreciation from locals. Even a simple “mba’éichapa” (hello/how are you) brings smiles.
Is San Lorenzo safe for solo female travelers?
Yes, with standard precautions. I’ve visited solo several times and found San Lorenzo to be generally safe. The university area has plenty of students around, creating a secure environment even in the evening. As anywhere, avoid isolated areas after dark, keep valuables secure, and be aware of your surroundings. Catcalling can occasionally occur, but it’s usually not threatening.
What’s the best day trip from San Lorenzo?
Ypacaraí Lake is just 20km away and makes an excellent day trip. You can take a bus from San Lorenzo to the town of Areguá (known for its pottery and strawberry farms) on the lakeshore. The journey takes about 45 minutes, and the last bus back usually leaves around 6:30pm. Another option is Itauguá, famous for ñandutí lace-making, just 15km from San Lorenzo.
How many days should I spend in San Lorenzo?
For a thorough experience, 2-3 days is ideal. This gives you time to explore the city at a relaxed pace, try different restaurants, and perhaps take a day trip to nearby attractions. If you’re just interested in the highlights, you could see the main areas in a full day trip from Asunción, but you’d miss the evening atmosphere.
Can I use US dollars in San Lorenzo?
While some hotels might accept US dollars, most businesses only take Paraguayan Guaraníes. It’s best to exchange money or withdraw local currency from ATMs. Exchanging dollars at casas de cambio (exchange houses) on Mcal. Estigarribia Avenue usually offers better rates than hotels or the airport.
What’s the best souvenir to buy in San Lorenzo?
The artisan section of the Mercado Municipal offers authentic Paraguayan crafts at better prices than tourist shops in Asunción. Look for ñandutí lace, carved wood items, or yerba mate sets. For something uniquely local, university-themed items from shops near the National University make interesting souvenirs you won’t find elsewhere.
References and Further Reading
- National Secretariat of Culture – Information on cultural events throughout Paraguay
- National Tourism Board of Paraguay – Official tourism information
- Universidad Nacional de Asunción – Official website with campus information and events
- Ministry of Public Health – Current health recommendations for visitors
- Municipality of San Lorenzo – Local government information and events
- Welcome Paraguay – Comprehensive travel information for the country
- CDC Travel Information for Paraguay – Health and safety information for travelers
- Lonely Planet: Paraguay – General travel information on Paraguay
- US Department of State: Paraguay Travel Advisory – Current travel advisories and information
- World Food Travel Association: South America – Information on culinary tourism in the region
- La Aldia – Local Paraguayan news source (Spanish)
- ABC Color – Major Paraguayan newspaper (Spanish)