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Ultimate Safi (Morocco) Travel Cheat Sheet 2025: A Local’s Guide to Morocco’s Pottery Capital

Discover my ultimate 2025 Safi, Morocco travel cheat sheet packed with insider tips, money-saving strategies, and authentic experiences from a frequent visitor. From navigating local customs to finding the best pottery deals.

Introduction: My Love Affair with Safi

The first time I visited Safi in 2018, I got completely lost in the medina, paid three times the local price for pottery, and couldn’t find a decent place to stay. Fast forward to 2025, and after eight visits to this captivating coastal gem, I’ve compiled everything I wish I’d known that first time. This coastal city often gets overshadowed by Marrakech and Essaouira, but that’s precisely what makes it special. The authentic experiences, stunning ceramics, and warm hospitality have kept me coming back year after year. Last September, as I sat watching the sunset from the Portuguese fortress with the scent of fish tagine wafting through the air, I realized how much I’ve grown to love this underrated Moroccan treasure – and how much I’ve learned about navigating it like a local.

Getting to Safi: Transportation Guide

Getting to Safi isn’t as straightforward as reaching Marrakech or Casablanca, but the journey is half the adventure! Most international travelers will first land at Casablanca’s Mohammed V International Airport (CMN) and then make their way to Safi.

From Casablanca to Safi

  • By Train: Take the ONCF train from Casa Voyageurs to Safi. The journey takes about 4.5 hours and costs around 120-150 MAD ($12-15) for first class (recommended). Trains run 4-5 times daily. Check the ONCF website for current schedules.
  • By CTM Bus: Premium buses run daily from Casablanca to Safi. The journey takes around 3.5 hours and costs 90-110 MAD ($9-11). Book in advance through the CTM website.
  • By Grand Taxi: Shared taxis leave when full from designated stations in Casablanca. Expect to pay around 150-180 MAD ($15-18) per seat, with the journey taking 3 hours.

Insider Tip: For the train journey, I always opt for first class – it’s only about $3-4 more than second class but gives you assigned seats and much more comfortable conditions. In summer 2024, I made the mistake of taking second class during a holiday period and had to stand for 2 hours!

From Marrakech to Safi

If you’re coming from Marrakech, the journey is shorter:

  • By CTM Bus: 2.5 hours, around 80 MAD ($8)
  • By Grand Taxi: 2 hours, approximately 120 MAD ($12) per seat

Where to Stay in Safi: Neighborhoods & Accommodations

Safi doesn’t have the abundance of luxury hotels you’ll find in Morocco’s more touristy cities, but it offers authentic stays with character. My recommendations based on multiple visits:

Best Neighborhoods to Stay

Old Medina

For the most authentic experience, stay in a riad in the Old Medina. You’ll be surrounded by history, though navigation can be challenging. I love the narrow streets and the calls to prayer echoing through the alleys at dawn.

Plateau/New City

More modern accommodations with better amenities. This area is cleaner and easier to navigate, but less atmospheric. Great if it’s your first visit to Morocco.

Charaf District

An up-and-coming area with mid-range hotels and good dining options. Still relatively undiscovered by tourists.

Accommodation Recommendations

  • Riad Safi – My personal favorite. A beautifully restored traditional home with just 6 rooms, a rooftop terrace, and home-cooked breakfasts. Prices from 550 MAD ($55) per night. Website
  • Hôtel Assif – Budget-friendly option in the new city with clean rooms and reliable WiFi. From 300 MAD ($30) per night.
  • Dar El Bahar – Stunning ocean views from this guesthouse near the fortress. Mid-range prices from 650 MAD ($65).

Money-Saving Tip: Stay slightly outside the tourist areas and negotiate your room rate, especially for stays longer than 3 nights. In November 2024, I got a 40% discount on a week-long stay at Riad Safi just by asking and paying in cash!

Accommodation Type Price Range (MAD) Best For Typical Amenities
Budget Hotels 200-350 Solo travelers, backpackers Basic room, shared bathroom
Mid-range Hotels 350-700 Couples, families Private bathroom, breakfast, WiFi
Riads/Guesthouses 450-900 Cultural experience seekers Traditional decor, breakfast, rooftop
Luxury Options 900+ Comfort seekers Swimming pool, restaurant, AC

Navigating Safi’s Highlights: What Not to Miss

Safi may be compact, but it packs a cultural punch that requires at least 2-3 days to properly explore. Here’s my curated list of must-see attractions based on what has consistently impressed both me and friends I’ve brought along.

Historical & Cultural Sites

  1. Kechla Fortress (Portuguese Castle) – This imposing 16th-century fortress offers spectacular ocean views and fascinating historical insights. Entry fee: 20 MAD ($2). Open daily 9am-6pm. Located at Place de l’Indépendance.
  2. National Ceramics Museum – Housed in an old koubbat (domed building), this museum showcases Safi’s renowned pottery tradition. The collection spans centuries and includes some truly breathtaking pieces. Entry fee: 10 MAD ($1). Located in the Old Medina.
  3. Old Medina – Get lost in the winding alleys of this authentic medina that hasn’t been overly commercialized like those in larger cities. The eastern section near Rue des Bijoutiers has the best craft shops.
  4. Great Mosque – While non-Muslims can’t enter, the exterior architecture is worth seeing, especially at sunset when the light hits the minaret.

Pottery District (Colline des Potiers)

Safi is Morocco’s pottery capital, and no visit is complete without exploring the Pottery Hill district. Here you’ll find dozens of workshops where artisans create everything from simple tagines to elaborate blue and white ceramics.

  • Watch potters working at traditional wheels
  • See kilns in action (usually firing on Wednesdays and Saturdays)
  • Purchase directly from artisans at a fraction of what you’d pay elsewhere

Money-Saving Insider Tip: Skip the large pottery showrooms that tour buses visit and instead head to the small workshops in the back alleys of the pottery district. Look for places where actual production is happening. I’ve found identical pieces for 60% less than in the tourist shops. My favorite hidden gem is Hassan’s workshop near the communal kiln – no website, no sign, just amazing craftsmanship.

Beaches & Natural Attractions

  • Safi Beach – The main city beach is more functional than beautiful, popular with local families
  • Lalla Fatna Beach – 15km south of Safi, this stunning beach has dramatic cliffs and far fewer visitors
  • Sidi Bouzid – About 25km north, this is where locals go for cleaner sands and good surfing conditions

Food Scene: Where and What to Eat in Safi

Safi’s cuisine blends traditional Moroccan flavors with coastal influences, creating a unique food scene dominated by seafood. As someone who’s eaten my way through the city multiple times, here’s my honest take on where to eat and what to try.

Must-Try Local Specialties

  • Fish Tagine – Safi’s signature dish. The local version uses preserved lemon, olives, and a unique blend of spices that’s more subtle than what you’ll find elsewhere in Morocco.
  • Grilled Sardines – Simple but extraordinary when fresh. Safi is a major sardine fishing port.
  • Seafood Pastilla – A coastal twist on the traditional sweet-savory pastry, filled with fish, shrimp, and vermicelli noodles.
  • Dorada à la Safiate – Local sea bream prepared with a saffron sauce unique to the region.

Language Tip: When ordering in restaurants, “shukran” (thank you) and “bsaha” (enjoy/to your health) go a long way. After a meal, try saying “tbarkallah” which locals use to express satisfaction with a good meal.

Where to Eat

Budget-Friendly Options

  • Restaurant Aisha – Hidden gem in the medina with no menu – just the catch of the day. Meals around 50-70 MAD ($5-7). Near the fish market.
  • Café Central – Great for breakfast with freshly baked msemen (Moroccan pancakes) and mint tea for just 25 MAD ($2.50). Located on Avenue Mohammed V.
  • The Fish Market Stalls – Pick your fish and have it grilled on the spot. My favorite budget experience! Around 80 MAD ($8) for a full meal.

Mid-Range Restaurants

  • Le Petit Pêcheur – My go-to recommendation for first-timers to Safi. Excellent seafood with a view of the harbor. Try their fish tagine. 120-150 MAD ($12-15) per person. View on map
  • Dar El Bahr – Located in the fortress area with panoramic ocean views. Great place to watch the sunset while enjoying grilled dorada. 150-200 MAD ($15-20) per person.

One of my most memorable meals in Safi was completely unplanned. During the October 2024 sardine festival, I wandered into a family-run place called Snack Mohammed where they were serving sardines stuffed with chermoula (a marinade of herbs, spices, oil, lemon juice, and pickled lemons). The tiny restaurant had just six tables and was filled with local workers, not a tourist in sight. The entire meal with bread, olives, and mint tea cost just 45 MAD ($4.50), and it remains one of the best meals I’ve ever had in Morocco.

Cultural Etiquette & Practical Tips

My first visit to Safi taught me some hard lessons about navigating cultural differences. I’ve made my share of faux pas, from inappropriate clothing to misunderstanding haggling protocols. Here’s how to avoid my mistakes and navigate local customs respectfully.

Dress Code & Behavior

  • Safi is more conservative than tourist hotspots like Marrakech. Both men and women should cover shoulders and knees.
  • For women, I recommend loose pants or long skirts and tops that don’t reveal cleavage.
  • Beachwear should be limited to actual beaches – don’t walk through town in swimwear.
  • Public displays of affection are frowned upon.
  • During Ramadan, avoid eating, drinking, or smoking in public during daylight hours.

Photography Etiquette

One of my most embarrassing moments came when I snapped photos of local artisans without asking. I learned quickly that this is considered disrespectful.

  • Always ask permission before photographing people, especially women and elderly people.
  • Offer to show people the photo you’ve taken of them.
  • Be prepared to pay a small tip (5-10 MAD) if photographing craftspeople or performers.
  • Avoid photographing government buildings, police, or military installations.

Bargaining Protocol

Haggling is expected in markets, but there’s an art to it:

  1. Never show too much enthusiasm for an item you want to buy.
  2. Start at about 40% of the asking price and work up from there.
  3. Aim to pay around 60-70% of the initial price for most items.
  4. Be prepared to walk away – this often results in the vendor calling you back with a better price.
  5. Once you agree on a price, honor it – backing out is considered very rude.

Insider Tip: When I’m shopping for pottery, I always ask “Shhal akhir taman?” (What’s your last price?) rather than making a low initial offer. This phrase often gets the seller to immediately drop to a more reasonable starting point for negotiations.

Money & Payments

  • Currency: Moroccan Dirham (MAD). As of early 2025, 1 USD ≈ 10 MAD.
  • Cash is King: While larger hotels accept cards, most businesses in Safi are cash-only.
  • ATMs: Available in the new city center. Avoid ATMs in isolated areas.
  • Tipping: 10% in restaurants is appreciated; 20-50 MAD for guides or drivers per day.

Internet & Connectivity

During my 2024 visit, internet connectivity had vastly improved compared to previous years:

  • SIM Cards: Maroc Telecom, Orange, and INWI all offer tourist SIM packages. A 10GB data package costs around 100 MAD ($10) and can be purchased at any official store with your passport.
  • WiFi: Available in most accommodations but quality varies. Cafés like Café Maure and Café des Arts offer reliable free WiFi with purchase.

Safety Considerations

Safi is generally safe for travelers, but like anywhere, awareness is key. In my eight visits, I’ve never encountered serious problems, but I have learned to take certain precautions.

General Safety

  • Petty theft can occur in crowded areas like the medina. Keep valuables secure and be alert.
  • Solo female travelers should expect some unwanted attention but serious harassment is rare.
  • Avoid walking alone in poorly lit areas after dark, especially near the beach and outskirts of the medina.
  • Tourist police are stationed around major attractions and can assist with any issues.

Health Precautions

  • Drink bottled water only, which costs around 5-10 MAD ($0.50-1) for 1.5 liters.
  • Be cautious with street food, especially in summer. Look for busy stalls with high turnover.
  • Bring basic medications as pharmacies may not carry familiar brands.
  • The main hospital (Hôpital Mohammed V) has emergency services but for serious issues, Marrakech or Casablanca have better facilities.

Personal Experience: During my 2023 visit, I developed a minor food poisoning after eating at a quiet street stall (my mistake!). The local pharmacy was incredibly helpful, providing medication and advice in French and broken English for about 70 MAD ($7). They even called later to check on me – the kind of personal care you don’t often find elsewhere.

Sustainable Travel in Safi

Tourism in Safi is still developing, which gives visitors a rare opportunity to establish positive practices from the start. As someone who’s witnessed the environmental challenges facing Morocco’s coastal cities, here are my recommendations for responsible travel that also enhances your experience.

Environmental Considerations

  • Water Conservation: Morocco faces serious water scarcity. Take short showers, reuse towels, and be mindful of consumption.
  • Plastic Reduction: Bring a reusable water bottle and refill it at your accommodation. I use a SteriPen to purify tap water rather than buying plastic bottles.
  • Beach Cleanups: Local organization Zero Déchet Safi holds weekend beach cleanups you can join.

Money-Saving Sustainability Tip: Instead of paying for bottled water everyday, I bought a 20L water dispenser for 30 MAD ($3) from a local shop on Rue du Marché and used it to refill my bottle throughout my two-week stay. This saved me about 280 MAD ($28) and prevented using dozens of plastic bottles.

Supporting Local Communities

  • Women’s Cooperatives: The Coopérative Féminine de Safi near the pottery district sells beautiful ceramics and textiles, with profits supporting local women’s education.
  • Local Guides: Hire local guides through Tours By Locals rather than national tour companies. Prices around 200-300 MAD ($20-30) for a half-day.
  • Language Exchange: Consider offering English conversation at Café Littéraire on Thursday evenings – I’ve met amazing locals this way and gained invitations to family homes.

Unique Experiences: Beyond the Guidebooks

After multiple visits to Safi, I’ve discovered experiences that rarely make it into conventional travel guides. These hidden gems have provided my most authentic and memorable moments in the city.

Offbeat Activities

  • Dawn at the Fishing Port: Arrive at the port around 5:30 AM to watch fishing boats return with the night’s catch. The colors, sounds, and smells create a sensory experience like no other. The auction that follows is fascinating – just stay out of the way of the busy workers.
  • Hammam Al Jadida: This local bathhouse is where residents actually go (not a touristy spa). Women go during the day, men in the evenings. Bring your own soap and scrubbing mitt, or purchase them at nearby shops. Entry: 15 MAD ($1.50).
  • Sunset Mint Tea Ceremony: Head to Café Maure near the fortress around sunset. Order mint tea (15 MAD) and watch as waiters pour it from impressive heights, creating a foam that locals claim is the mark of properly prepared tea.
  • Pottery Workshop Experience: While many tourists just buy pottery, I arranged a half-day workshop with master potter Ahmed on Pottery Hill where I learned to throw a basic tagine on the wheel. One of my most memorable experiences! 300 MAD ($30) for 3-4 hours.

Seasonal Events Worth Planning Around

  • National Ceramic Festival (May): The city comes alive with exhibitions, competitions, and demonstrations. The 2025 edition will feature expanded international participation.
  • Chaâbana Music Festival (July): Three nights of traditional and fusion Chaâbi music performances in the open-air theater.
  • Sardine Festival (October): A relatively new event celebrating Safi’s fishing industry with culinary competitions, music, and incredibly fresh seafood at special prices.

I’ve timed my last two visits to coincide with the Ceramic Festival, and it’s remarkable to see the transformation of the city. Streets are decorated with ceramic installations, workshops open their doors to visitors, and even the most skilled artisans take time to demonstrate their techniques to curious onlookers.

Day Trips from Safi

Using Safi as a base, you can explore several fascinating locations that offer a different perspective on Moroccan life. These day trips have provided some of my most memorable experiences outside the city limits.

Oualidia (1 hour north)

This tranquil lagoon town is known for its oyster farms and flamingo populations. I consider it Morocco’s best-kept coastal secret.

  • Getting There: Grand taxi from Safi costs about 40 MAD ($4) per seat, or rent a car for around 350 MAD ($35) per day.
  • Don’t Miss: Fresh oysters at La Sultana’s deck (120 MAD/$12 for half dozen), bird watching in the lagoon, and the uncrowded beaches.
  • Insider Tip: Visit oyster farms in the morning and arrange to sample oysters straight from the water – an unforgettable experience for around 80 MAD ($8).

El Jadida (1.5 hours north)

A UNESCO World Heritage site featuring impressive Portuguese fortifications and the beautiful cistern.

  • Getting There: CTM bus costs 50 MAD ($5) one-way, with several departures daily.
  • Don’t Miss: The atmospheric Portuguese Cistern (entry: 60 MAD/$6), walking the ramparts at sunset, and the lively central market.

Essaouira (2.5 hours south)

Though this requires an early start, Essaouira makes for a magnificent day trip with its artistic vibe, bustling port, and Game of Thrones filming locations.

  • Getting There: Morning CTM bus at 7:30 AM (90 MAD/$9 one-way), returning at 6:30 PM.
  • Don’t Miss: The bustling fish market, Skala du Port fortifications, and the medina’s art galleries.
  • Timing Tip: I prefer visiting on Sundays when the weekly rural market brings farmers and craftspeople from surrounding villages.

Doukkala Wine Region (1 hour inland)

Few visitors realize Morocco produces wine, but the Doukkala region has several vineyards offering tours and tastings.

  • Getting There: Best accessed with a private driver (around 500 MAD/$50 for the day) or rental car.
  • Don’t Miss: Domaine du Val d’Argan winery offers tours and tastings for 150 MAD ($15), including local goat cheese pairings.
  • Reservation Required: Call at least 2 days ahead to arrange visits as these are working facilities, not tourist attractions.

Conclusion: Making the Most of Your Safi Journey

After eight visits and countless discoveries, I’m still finding new reasons to love Safi. This underrated coastal city offers an authentic glimpse into Moroccan life without the tourist crowds of Marrakech or Fez. The warm hospitality, stunning ceramics, delicious seafood, and genuine cultural experiences make it worth adding to your Morocco itinerary.

5-Step Action Plan for Visiting Safi in 2025

  1. Plan your visit around local events – Time your trip to coincide with the Ceramic Festival in May or the Sardine Festival in October for an enhanced cultural experience.
  2. Book accommodations in the Medina – Stay in a traditional riad like Riad Safi or Dar El Bahar for the most atmospheric experience, but book at least 3 months in advance for these smaller properties.
  3. Connect with local artisans – Arrange a pottery workshop experience through your riad or directly with workshops on Pottery Hill at least a week before arrival.
  4. Prepare for authentic interactions – Learn a few Arabic or French phrases, dress conservatively, and bring small denominations for tips and purchases in the medina.
  5. Allocate adequate time – Give Safi at least 2-3 full days, plus an extra day for a side trip to Oualidia or El Jadida. Most travelers rush through, missing the rhythm of local life that makes this city special.

My most recent visit in late 2024 revealed a city slowly awakening to sustainable tourism, with new local guides offering specialized food tours and pottery experiences. Prices remain reasonable, people are genuinely welcoming, and the city retains an authenticity that’s increasingly rare in Morocco’s more visited destinations.

As I sat at Café Maure on my final evening of my last trip, watching fishermen return to port as the sun set behind the Atlantic, I realized that Safi’s magic lies precisely in what it lacks: crowds, tourist traps, and pretension. It offers instead something increasingly precious: a chance to experience a slice of real Moroccan coastal life.

Final Money-Saving Tip: If you’re continuing to other Moroccan destinations, buy your pottery in Safi directly from workshops. The same pieces I saw for 900 MAD in Marrakech tourist shops cost just 250-300 MAD when purchased directly from artisans here. Just be sure to wrap them carefully in your luggage!

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Safi safe for solo female travelers?

Yes, Safi is generally safe for solo female travelers, though you should take standard precautions. I’ve traveled there alone on three occasions and felt comfortable, though I did receive occasional unwanted attention. Dress conservatively (covering shoulders and knees), avoid walking alone after dark, and project confidence. Many women find wearing a wedding ring (real or fake) reduces unwanted approaches.

How many days should I spend in Safi?

I recommend 2-3 full days in Safi itself, plus an extra day if you want to take a day trip to nearby attractions like Oualidia or El Jadida. Most visitors rush through in a single day, but this doesn’t allow time to experience the pottery workshops properly or explore the medina at a relaxed pace.

What’s the best time of year to visit Safi?

Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) offer the most pleasant weather, with temperatures between 18-25°C (65-77°F). Summer can be hot but is moderated by ocean breezes. Winter is mild but can be rainy. If possible, time your visit to coincide with the Ceramic Festival in May or the Sardine Festival in October.

Do I need to speak Arabic or French to visit Safi?

While knowing some French or Arabic will enhance your experience, you can get by with English, especially in accommodations and larger restaurants. I’ve found that learning a few basic phrases in Darija (Moroccan Arabic) like “salaam aleikum” (hello), “shukran” (thank you), and “bshhal” (how much) goes a long way and is appreciated by locals.

Is tap water safe to drink in Safi?

I don’t recommend drinking tap water in Safi. Stick to bottled water, which is inexpensive (5-10 MAD/$0.50-1 for 1.5 liters). If staying longer, consider a water purification system like a SteriPen or LifeStraw to reduce plastic waste.

How much should I expect to pay for pottery in Safi?

Prices vary widely depending on quality, complexity, and where you purchase. From my experience, a small decorative plate might cost 50-80 MAD ($5-8) directly from a workshop, while larger elaborate pieces can range from 300-1000 MAD ($30-100). The same items would cost 2-3 times more in tourist shops in Marrakech or Fez.

Can I visit Safi as a day trip from Marrakech?

While technically possible, I don’t recommend it. The journey takes about 2.5 hours each way, leaving very little time to actually experience Safi. If you’re pressed for time, consider staying one night to at least give yourself a full day to explore.

Are credit cards widely accepted in Safi?

No. Outside of larger hotels and a few upscale restaurants, Safi remains largely a cash economy. ATMs are available in the new city center, and I recommend withdrawing sufficient cash upon arrival. Most riads and guesthouses require cash payment.

References & Further Reading