Introduction: Why Liepaja Captured My Heart
The first time I visited Liepaja in 2018, I made just about every mistake possible. I arrived during a rainstorm with no waterproof jacket, spoke zero Latvian, and mistakenly thought I could see the whole city in a day. Seven visits later, I’ve fallen completely in love with this windswept Baltic gem on Latvia’s western coast that locals proudly call “the city where the wind is born.” After being caught in the rain (again) during my most recent trip in late 2023, I vowed to create the guide I wish I’d had years ago. This isn’t your typical tourist manual—it’s a collection of hard-earned lessons, local secrets, and genuine insights that will help you experience the real Liepaja in 2025.
Between the pristine Blue Flag beach, the gritty charm of Karosta (the former Soviet military district), and some of the best live music venues in the Baltics, Liepaja offers an authentically Latvian experience without the crowds of Riga. This guide aims to help you navigate like a local while avoiding the costly mistakes I’ve already made for you.
Getting to Liepaja: Transportation Options for 2025
Liepaja sits about 220km west of Riga, and the transportation landscape has evolved significantly since the pandemic. As of 2025, here are your best options:
From Riga International Airport (RIX)
The most economical route from RIX to Liepaja is:
- Take bus #22 from the airport to Riga Central Bus Station (€2)
- From Riga, choose between:
- Bus: 3-3.5 hours, €8.50-11 each way via Autoosta (most frequent option with hourly departures)
- Train: Recently improved service takes about 3 hours, €8.90 each way via Passenger Rail (limited schedule but more comfortable)
- Shared ride: Check the Facebook group “Braucam kopā / Liepāja – Rīga” for rideshares typically costing €10-15 per person
Money-saving tip #1: Book bus tickets 2-3 days in advance online for a 10-15% discount. I’ve saved nearly €20 on round trips this way!
Direct Flights to Liepaja Airport
The exciting news for 2025 is that airBaltic has expanded its seasonal direct flights from Riga to Liepaja (LPX), operating May through September. These 30-minute flights start around €39 one-way if booked well in advance. They’re particularly worthwhile if you’re short on time, though the airport is 6km from the city center (requiring a €10 taxi ride).
Getting Around Liepaja
Liepaja is extremely walkable, with most attractions concentrated in a compact area. However, these options make exploring easier:
- City buses: €0.90 per ride (pay the driver) or €2.20 for a day pass
- Bolt: The preferred rideshare app; typical rides cost €3-7 within city center
- Bicycle rental: Sixt offers daily rentals for €12, or try the Nextbike bike-sharing system (€0.90/30min)
Insider Tip: When taking a taxi from the train or bus station, never accept the first quoted price. My last driver initially asked for €10 for a ride to my hotel on Lielā iela, but agreed to €5 when I mentioned using Bolt instead.
Where to Stay: Neighborhoods and Accommodation
Liepaja has distinct neighborhoods, each with its own character. The 2025 landscape offers greatly improved options compared to my first visit.
Best Areas for Travelers
- Old Town (Vecliepāja): The historic heart with cobblestone streets, cafes, and cultural venues. Most convenient for first-time visitors.
- New Town (Jaunliepāja): More residential but close to the beach, with better value accommodations.
- Karosta: The former naval base with Soviet architecture and fascinating history. Stay here for unique atmosphere, but be aware it’s 9km from city center.
Accommodation Options
Type | Price Range (€) | Recommended Options |
---|---|---|
Budget | 20-40 | Pifagors Guesthouse (where I stayed in 2022, simple but clean with great location) |
Mid-range | 45-80 | Hotel Vilhelmine (my personal favorite, historic building with great breakfast) |
Luxury | 90-150 | Promenade Hotel (housed in a restored 18th-century warehouse) |
Apartments | 35-90 | Airbnb options (look near Rožu laukums for best location) |
Money-saving tip #2: Book accommodations outside July-August to save 30-40%. I paid €38/night at Hotel Vilhelmine in May 2023, but the same room was €65 in August. Also, many places offer discounts for stays of 3+ nights if you email them directly rather than booking through platforms.
Must-See Attractions: Beyond the Guidebooks
While most tourists visit the standard attractions, here’s my curated list based on seven visits, including lesser-known gems that reflect the true spirit of Liepaja:
Essential Experiences
- Karosta Prison: Former military prison turned interactive museum. The “Behind Bars” experience (€10) lets you live as a Soviet-era prisoner for 1.5 hours. Book the English tour at least a day ahead.
- Liepaja Beach: The pride of the city with white sand stretching for kilometers. The southern section near the Hotel Amrita is less crowded but equally beautiful.
- St. Nicholas Orthodox Maritime Cathedral: The stunning gold-domed cathedral in Karosta, recently restored after years of Soviet-era neglect.
- Great Amber Concert Hall: An architectural marvel with incredible acoustics. Even if you don’t attend a performance, the €5 guided tour is worthwhile for the rooftop view.
Hidden Gems Only Locals Know
- Northern Breakwater: Located at the far end of Karosta, this 1,800-meter concrete pier offers the most dramatic Baltic views, especially during storms. I’ve visited five times and rarely encountered other tourists.
- Peter’s Market (Pētertirgus): The local market where babushkas sell homemade pickles, smoked fish, and forest berries. Come before 11am on Saturday for the best selection.
- Street Art at Vecā Ostmala: The old port area features impressive murals from the annual street art festival. My favorite depicts an old fisherman with seagulls, near warehouse #7.
- Swan Pond in Jūrmala Park: A peaceful spot with white swans and water lilies, perfect for escaping crowds. The nearby playground has excellent coffee at the small kiosk (€1.50 compared to €3-4 in Old Town cafes).
Mistake I Made: On my first visit, I completely missed Karosta, focusing only on the city center. It’s like visiting Paris and skipping the Eiffel Tower! Karosta offers Liepaja’s most distinctive experiences and photographs. Allow at least half a day here.
Food and Drink: Where Locals Actually Eat
Liepaja’s culinary scene has evolved tremendously since my first visit. The city now offers everything from traditional Latvian cuisine to modern fusion, often at prices 20-30% lower than equivalent places in Riga.
Traditional Latvian Food
- Pastnieka Māja: Located in a historic postmaster’s house. Their grey peas with bacon (€5.90) and beer soup with rye bread ice cream (€4.50) represent authentic Latvian cuisine. The garden seating is magical in summer.
- Barža “Prieks”: A restored barge serving smoked fish and craft beers. Their fish platter (€12) easily feeds two people. Only open May-September.
Modern Favorites
- Darbnīca: My personal favorite. This former workshop turned restaurant serves incredible burgers (€8-10) and craft beers. The mushroom burger with blue cheese is life-changing.
- Fontaine Palace: Part hotel, part music venue, part restaurant. Their weekday lunch special (€7 for soup, main course, and coffee) is the best deal in town.
- Kupfernams: Located in a copper craftsman’s historic house. Their tasting menu (€35) showcases modern interpretations of Baltic ingredients.
Coffee and Desserts
- Šokolāde: Handmade chocolates and exceptional hot chocolate. The sea buckthorn truffles (€0.90 each) blend sweet and tart perfectly.
- Coffee Inn: While it’s a chain, their Liepaja location on Lielā iela has the best working atmosphere with reliable WiFi and power outlets.
Money-saving tip #3: Most restaurants offer “business lunch” specials on weekdays (12-3pm) that are 40-50% cheaper than dinner prices for essentially the same food. I regularly eat at Darbnīca for €6 at lunch, while the same meal costs €12-14 in the evening.
Local Phrases: Impress servers by saying “Paldies, bija ļoti garšīgi!” (Thanks, it was very delicious!) or ask for the check with “Lūdzu, rēķinu.” The effort is always appreciated even if your pronunciation isn’t perfect.
Entertainment and Nightlife: The “City of Music”
Liepaja has proudly earned the nickname “Latvia’s Capital of Music,” hosting multiple festivals and nurturing countless bands. The city’s nightlife mirrors its laid-back yet creative atmosphere.
Live Music Venues
- Fontaine Palace: The epicenter of Liepaja’s music scene hosting everything from local rock bands to international acts. Shows typically cost €5-15.
- Hot Jazz Club: Intimate venue with excellent acoustics. Their Tuesday jam sessions (free entry) attract amazing local musicians.
- Great Amber Concert Hall: For classical and contemporary performances in world-class acoustics. Student tickets are half-price even for international visitors with valid student ID.
Bars and Pubs with Character
- Mierins&Duse: Craft beer bar with rotating taps featuring Latvian microbreweries. Their beer flights (4 samples for €7) are the best way to discover local brews.
- Silva: Retro Soviet-style bar that’s barely changed since the 1980s. Beers cost around €2.50, attracting an interesting mix of locals.
- Red Sun Buffet: Beach bar operating May-September. Watching sunset here with a €3.50 craft beer is a quintessential Liepaja experience.
Annual Festivals Worth Planning Around
- Summer Sound (July): Baltic beach festival with multiple stages and camping options. Book at least 3 months ahead.
- LiVe (March): Independent music showcase spread across multiple venues in one weekend.
- Milk Paradise (August): Eclectic arts festival in the former industrial district with installations, performances, and food trucks.
Mistake I Made: I once showed up at Fontaine Palace on a Friday night without checking their schedule, only to find it closed for a private event. Always check venues’ Facebook pages for current events—websites aren’t reliably updated.
Shopping: From Souvenirs to Local Designs
Skip the typical tourist trinkets and discover unique items that genuinely represent Liepaja and support local creators.
Best Local Products
- Lino House: Beautiful linen products made right in Liepaja. Their table runners (€25-40) make perfect gifts that pack easily.
- Peter’s Market: For local food products like smoked fish, honey, and pickles. The amber jewelry stands offer better prices than Old Town shops.
- Molberti Studio M: Gallery featuring works by local artists, often depicting Liepaja’s landscapes. Prints start at €15.
- Liepāju Raksti: Small shop selling items adorned with traditional Liepaja patterns and symbols. Their wool mittens (€18-25) feature designs specific to the Kurzeme region.
Sustainable Shopping
- Otrreiz: Excellent vintage and second-hand store with carefully curated clothes, accessories, and home items.
- Zero Waste Liepāja: Package-free store selling everything from food to toiletries. Bring your own containers or purchase reusable ones there.
Insider Tip: Many shops close early (5-6pm) even during tourist season, except on Fridays when they remain open until 7pm. Almost everything except supermarkets and restaurants closes on Sundays, and Monday mornings many small shops open later (around noon).
Seasonal Considerations and Weather
They don’t call it “the city where the wind is born” for nothing! Liepaja’s coastal location means weather can change dramatically within hours.
Best Times to Visit
- Peak Season (June-August): Warmest weather (18-25°C) and all attractions open, but accommodations cost 30-50% more.
- Shoulder Season (May and September): My personal recommendation. Mild weather (12-20°C), fewer tourists, and lower prices. May offers beautiful spring blooms while September has warm Baltic water.
- Off-Season (October-April): For budget travelers and those seeking authenticity. Many attractions have limited hours, but you’ll experience the real, non-touristy Liepaja. Winter beach walks during storms are spectacular if you dress properly.
Weather Realities
Season | Temperature | What to Expect | What to Pack |
---|---|---|---|
Summer | 18-25°C | Sunny days with occasional rain; consistent wind | Windbreaker, swimwear, light layers |
Autumn | 5-15°C | Frequent rain, strong winds, beautiful foliage | Waterproof jacket, scarf, umbrella |
Winter | -5 to 5°C | Snow, dramatic storms, shorter daylight (7 hours) | Waterproof boots, warm coat, gloves |
Spring | 5-15°C | Unpredictable—can be beautiful or stormy | Layers, raincoat, walking shoes |
Mistake I Made: I once visited in April with only a light jacket, forgetting about Liepaja’s famous wind. Even on a sunny 12°C day, the windchill made it feel much colder. Always bring one warmer layer than you think you’ll need!
Local Events Calendar 2025
- February: International Stars Festival (classical music)
- March: LiVe Music Festival
- May 4: Latvia’s Restoration of Independence Day celebrations in Kūrmājas prospekts
- June 15-16: Liepaja City Festival (street performances, concerts, food stalls)
- July 12-14: Summer Sound Festival
- August 19-21: Milk Paradise Arts Festival
- September: Piano Stars Festival at Great Amber
- December 6-31: Christmas Market in Rožu laukums
Day Trips From Liepaja
While Liepaja offers plenty to fill 3-4 days, these nearby destinations make excellent additions to your itinerary:
Within 1 Hour
- Kuldīga (75km): Charming medieval town with Europe’s widest waterfall. The red-brick bridge and cobblestone streets feel like a fairytale. Bus takes 1h20m (€5.40 each way).
- Ventspils (60km): Coastal city with an excellent maritime museum, adventure park, and clean beaches. The cow sculptures throughout town make for fun photos. Bus takes 1h10m (€5.10 each way).
- Pāvilosta (50km): Tiny fishing village with wild beaches and the best seafood in Latvia. Try the local “Laiva” restaurant for garlic smoked fish. Limited bus connections; consider a taxi (€35-40 each way) or shared ride.
Nature Escapes
- Bernāti Beach and Latvia’s Western Point (15km): The westernmost point of Latvia marked with a stone monument “You’re not alone.” Pristine beaches with fewer people than in Liepaja. Take bus #704 (€1.70) or rent bicycles.
- Grobiņa Viking Settlement (10km): Archaeological site with Viking-era artifacts and reconstructions. The small museum displays findings from the 9th century. Take bus #702 or #705 (€1.50).
Insider Tip: During summer, locals often gather for spontaneous sunset picnics at Bernāti Beach. If you see groups with blankets and baskets boarding the afternoon bus #704, that’s where they’re headed.
Practical Information and Money-Saving Hacks
These practical tips will help you navigate Liepaja more efficiently while saving money:
Currency and Payments
- Latvia uses the Euro (€). As of 2025, most places accept cards, but keep €50-100 in cash for small businesses and markets.
- ATMs from Swedbank and SEB offer the best rates with minimal fees.
- Always choose to be charged in local currency (EUR) if given the option during card transactions.
Budget Breakdown
Expense | Budget (€) | Mid-range (€) | Splurge (€) |
---|---|---|---|
Accommodation (per night) | 20-40 | 45-80 | 90-150 |
Meal | 5-8 | 10-15 | 20-40 |
Local transport (daily) | 2-3 | 5-10 | 15-25 |
Attractions (daily) | 0-10 | 15-25 | 30-50 |
Money-Saving Strategies
- Liepaja Card: Available at the tourist information center (€15), offering free entry to multiple museums and discounts on restaurants. Worth it if you plan to visit at least 3-4 attractions.
- Free activities: Beach walks, Jūrmala Park, street art tours, and the Naval Port Gates don’t cost anything.
- Museum free days: Most museums offer free entry on the last Sunday of each month.
- Set lunches: Business lunch specials (€5-8) offer the best value Monday-Friday from 12-3pm.
- Water strategy: Tap water is safe to drink. Bring a reusable bottle to save money and reduce plastic waste.
Sustainability Tip that Saves Money: Local public beach showers operate free of charge from May through September. After a beach day, rinse off there rather than using hotel water. You’ll save on your hotel’s water consumption while avoiding tracking sand everywhere.
Language Tips
While most people under 40 speak good English, learning a few Latvian phrases goes a long way:
- “Labdien” (lab-dee-en) – Hello
- “Paldies” (pal-dees) – Thank you
- “Lūdzu” (looh-dzoo) – Please/You’re welcome
- “Uz veselību!” (ooz ve-sel-ee-boo) – Cheers!
Internet and Connectivity
Latvia has excellent mobile coverage and fast internet. For stays longer than 3 days, consider purchasing a local SIM card:
- LMT or Tele2 shops offer tourist SIMs with 5-10GB data for €5-10
- Free WiFi is available in most cafes, the city center, and along the beach promenade
Conclusion: Your 5-Step Action Plan for Liepaja
After seven visits spanning different seasons, I’ve developed a strategic approach to experiencing the best of Liepaja while avoiding common pitfalls. Here’s your action plan to make the most of your visit:
Your Liepaja 5-Step Action Plan
- Book strategically: Choose accommodations in Old Town for a first visit, schedule during May, June, or September for the best balance of good weather and lower prices, and book transportation at least a week in advance.
- Plan your first day around Old Town: Start with a morning walking tour along Lielā iela and the canal, have lunch at a business special, spend the afternoon at the beach (weather permitting), and end with dinner at Pastnieka Māja.
- Dedicate a full day to Karosta: Visit the prison in the morning (book ahead), explore the Northern Breakwater, see St. Nicholas Cathedral, and have lunch at a local spot like “Silva” for an authentic experience.
- Connect with local culture: Check event calendars at Great Amber and Fontaine Palace, visit Peter’s Market on a Saturday morning, and plan at least one evening around live music.
- Include a nature day: Rent bicycles and ride to Bernāti, or take a half-day trip to Pāvilosta or Kuldīga to see a different side of the region.
Liepaja rewards those who approach it with curiosity and patience. Unlike more polished tourist destinations, its charm lies in authentic moments: conversations with locals at a neighborhood bar, discovering a hidden courtyard off Kuršu iela, or watching fishing boats return at sunset from the end of the breakwater. Each of my seven visits has revealed new layers to this complex, creative city that remains refreshingly off the mainstream tourist path.
The wind-swept beaches, Soviet history, and vibrant arts scene combine to create an experience that feels distinctly Latvian yet unlike anywhere else in the country. Whether you’re drawn by the music, the architecture, or simply the desire to explore somewhere different, Liepaja offers an authentic Baltic experience that stays with you long after you leave.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Liepaja safe for tourists?
Yes, Liepaja is very safe by European standards. Like any city, use common sense after dark, particularly in Karosta and around the port area. I’ve walked alone at night many times without issues, but as a solo female traveler, I stick to well-lit streets after 10pm. The beach area is patrolled during summer months, and tourist-targeted crime is extremely rare.
How many days should I spend in Liepaja?
I recommend 3-4 full days to experience Liepaja properly. This allows time for both the city center and Karosta, plus a day trip if desired. If you’re visiting during summer and enjoy beaches, add an extra day for relaxation. Two days is the absolute minimum to see the highlights, but you’ll be rushing.
Can I visit Liepaja as a day trip from Riga?
Technically yes, but I strongly advise against it. The one-way journey takes 3+ hours, leaving you with only 4-5 hours in Liepaja before needing to return. You’d miss the evening atmosphere and barely scratch the surface. If extremely limited on time, stay overnight at minimum.
What’s the difference between Liepaja and Ventspils?
Both are coastal cities in western Latvia, but they offer different experiences. Ventspils is more family-friendly with manicured parks, a water park, and the Cow Parade sculptures. Liepaja has stronger cultural offerings (music scenes, theaters), more interesting architecture, and a grittier, more authentic feel. Ventspils feels more organized and maintained, while Liepaja has more character and artistic energy.
Is English widely spoken in Liepaja?
In tourist areas, hotels, and restaurants, English is commonly spoken, especially by people under 40. In more local establishments, markets, and with older residents, communication might require gestures and simple phrases. Learning a few Latvian greetings goes a long way. Russian is also widely understood, especially among older residents.
What’s the best way to get from Riga Airport to Liepaja?
The most convenient option is taking bus #22 from the airport to Riga Central Bus Station (€2, 30 minutes), then catching a direct bus to Liepaja (€8.50-11, 3-3.5 hours). Alternatively, during summer months (May-September), airBaltic operates direct flights from Riga to Liepaja (30 minutes, from €39 each way), though you’ll need a taxi from Liepaja Airport to the city center (€10).
Is Liepaja suitable for families with children?
Yes, especially during summer. The gentle-sloping beach is perfect for kids, and Jūrmala Park has excellent playgrounds. The Zinoo Science Center offers interactive exhibits, and the Naval Port tour can be interesting for older children. However, some attractions like Karosta Prison may not be suitable for very young children. For rainy days, the Puppet Theater offers performances that transcend language barriers.
What are typical weather conditions in Liepaja?
Liepaja is known for its wind and changeable weather. Summer (June-August) temperatures typically range from 18-25°C, though occasional heat waves can push it to 30°C. Winter (December-February) ranges from -5 to 5°C with snow possible. Spring and fall are unpredictable, with temperatures between 5-15°C and frequent rain showers. Regardless of season, always be prepared for wind and sudden weather changes—locals joke you can experience all four seasons in one day!
Are there any local customs I should be aware of?
Latvians tend to be reserved at first but warm up quickly. When visiting someone’s home, bring a small gift (chocolates, flowers in odd numbers, but never yellow flowers). Remove your shoes when entering private homes. Tipping 10% is customary in restaurants if service was good. Latvians value personal space—loud conversations in public places may draw disapproving looks. When visiting religious sites like St. Nicholas Cathedral, modest dress is appreciated.
References
- Official Liepaja Tourism Website
- Latvia Travel: Liepaja Guide
- Lonely Planet: Liepaja
- Cultural Portal of Latvia: Liepaja
- Karosta: Naval Port Prison Museum
- Great Amber Concert Hall Official Website
- Latvia Country Tourism: Liepaja Region
- Latvian Public Broadcasting: Liepaja News
- Summer Sound Festival
- The Baltic Times: Liepaja Articles
- Liepajniekiem: Local News Portal
- Liepaja for Travellers Facebook Group