Introduction: Why Eritrea Should Be On Your Radar
The first time I set foot in Asmara back in 2017, I was utterly unprepared for how deeply this small African nation would capture my heart. Standing in Independence Avenue as the golden afternoon light illuminated the Italian modernist buildings, I actually felt tears welling up—there was something so powerful about this place that has remained largely untouched by mass tourism. After five visits and countless conversations with locals, I’ve assembled this comprehensive guide to help you experience Eritrea the way it deserves to be experienced.
Eritrea remains one of Africa’s least-visited destinations, which is precisely what makes it so special. This former Italian colony gained independence from Ethiopia in 1993 after a 30-year struggle, and today offers travelers a unique blend of African and Mediterranean cultures, breathtaking landscapes, and some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet.
While tourism infrastructure remains limited compared to neighboring countries, recent political developments including improved relations with Ethiopia and easing of some travel restrictions have made 2025 the perfect time to discover this hidden gem before everyone else does. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to make your Eritrean adventure unforgettable.
Understanding Eritrea: History and Culture
Before diving into activities, it’s crucial to understand Eritrea’s complex history. The country’s identity has been shaped by successive occupations—Ottoman, Egyptian, Italian, British, and finally Ethiopian—before gaining independence in 1993 after a 30-year struggle.
The Italian colonial period (1890-1941) left the most visible mark, especially in Asmara’s stunning architecture. The British administration (1941-1952) and subsequent federation with Ethiopia eventually led to annexation and the long independence war (1961-1991).
Today’s Eritrea is culturally diverse with nine recognized ethnic groups. The predominant religions are Christianity (Orthodox, Catholic, and Protestant) and Islam, which coexist relatively peacefully. You’ll hear Tigrinya most frequently, along with Arabic, English, and Italian in tourist areas.
Local Phrase Tip: Learn “Selam, kemey aleka/aleki?” (Hello, how are you? for male/female) in Tigrinya. Using this simple greeting earned me countless smiles and often led to invitations for coffee ceremonies!
Essential Things to Do in Asmara
Asmara, Eritrea’s capital and cultural heart, deserves at least 3-4 days of your itinerary. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2017 for its exceptional modernist architecture, the city offers a unique blend of African and Italian influences.
1. Explore Art Deco Asmara
Nicknamed “Little Rome” or “Africa’s Secret Modernist City,” Asmara boasts one of the world’s most concentrated collections of modernist architecture. The buildings date mostly from the 1930s when Italian architects used the city as a playground for experimental designs.
- Fiat Tagliero Building – This airplane-shaped service station from 1938 is the city’s most iconic structure. Visit in the early morning for the best photos when the light accentuates its dramatic wings. Learn more
- Cinema Impero – A perfectly preserved Art Deco theater still screening films. Tickets cost 15 Nakfa (about $1) for evening shows.
- Former Opera House – Now housing the National Museum but retaining its elegant façade.
- Central Post Office – A stunning modernist building where you can send postcards home (though they might take months to arrive!).
My mistake during my first visit was trying to see everything in one day. The buildings are best appreciated slowly, with coffee breaks at the Italian-style cafés in between. I recommend joining the walking tour organized by the Cultural Assets Rehabilitation Project office (200 Nakfa, ~$13) for expert commentary.
2. Visit the Markets of Asmara
Immersing yourself in local markets offers authentic glimpses into everyday Eritrean life:
- Medeber Market – My favorite place in Asmara! This recycling market showcases Eritrean resourcefulness as artisans transform war scrap metal and discarded materials into practical items. Watch craftsmen create coffee pots (jebenas) from old Italian army helmets and jewelry from bullet casings. Located in the northwestern part of the city.
- Merkato – The main market for fresh produce, spices, and daily goods. Go in the morning when it’s most active and follow your nose to the spice section for the freshest berbere.
Insider Tip: At Medeber, ask permission before taking photos (a small tip of 20-30 Nakfa is appreciated) and consider purchasing something small from the artisans. I found beautiful recycled aluminum bracelets for around 150 Nakfa ($10) that make perfect gifts.
3. Experience Eritrean Coffee Culture
Coffee isn’t just a beverage in Eritrea; it’s a cultural institution. The country lies in coffee’s ancestral homeland region, and Eritreans take enormous pride in their coffee traditions.
- Bar Impero – This historic café on Liberation Avenue serves excellent macchiatos for 15 Nakfa ($1) in an atmosphere that hasn’t changed since the 1950s. The afternoon crowd of elderly gentlemen reading newspapers creates a timeless ambiance.
- Traditional Coffee Ceremony – If invited to a local home (which happens frequently if you make friends), you’ll likely experience the traditional coffee ceremony. Fresh beans are roasted over coals, ground by hand, and brewed in a clay pot called a jebena. The ceremony takes about an hour and typically includes three rounds of increasingly mild coffee.
During my second visit, I made the mistake of declining a third cup during a ceremony, not realizing this is considered impolite. The full ceremony is meant to be savored through all three servings, with the final cup believed to bestow a blessing.
Exploring Beyond Asmara
While Asmara is fascinating, Eritrea’s diverse landscapes and historical sites beyond the capital offer equally rewarding experiences. Here’s what not to miss:
4. Ride the Historic Asmara-Massawa Railway
The narrow-gauge railway connecting Asmara to Massawa is an engineering marvel, descending over 2,000 meters through breathtaking landscapes. Built by Italians in the early 1900s, it features 39 tunnels and 65 bridges along its 117km length.
While the full line isn’t operational year-round, a restored steam locomotive runs the section from Asmara to Nefasit on weekends (120km round trip). The journey costs 300 Nakfa ($20) and takes about 4 hours.
Money-Saving Tip: The train doesn’t run consistently due to fuel constraints. Instead of waiting indefinitely, arrange a shared taxi with other travelers to follow the railway route by road. You’ll see the same spectacular scenery, can stop for photos at the most dramatic bridges, and it typically costs 200 Nakfa per person when shared among four travelers.
5. Explore the Port City of Massawa
Massawa, on the Red Sea coast, feels worlds away from highland Asmara. The Ottoman-influenced old town on Batsi Island features coral-block buildings, intricate wooden balconies, and winding alleyways leading to the sea.
The city bears the scars of the independence war, with many buildings still showing damage from bombing. Don’t miss:
- Imperial Palace – Built for Emperor Haile Selassie, now partially destroyed but hauntingly beautiful
- Old Customs House – Offering views across the harbor
- Massawa’s seafood restaurants – Try Gianluca’s Restaurant where fresh catch of the day with Eritrean spices costs around 200 Nakfa ($13)
Massawa is extremely hot (often 40°C/104°F), especially from May to September. I made the mistake of visiting in July during my first trip and could barely explore for more than an hour at a time. Winter months (November-February) are much more comfortable.
6. Discover the Ancient Port of Adulis
About 60km south of Massawa lie the ruins of Adulis, once the principal port of the Axumite Empire and a major trading hub between Africa, Arabia, and the Mediterranean from the 1st to the 7th centuries CE.
Recent archaeological work has uncovered impressive structures including a basilica, residential areas, and harbor facilities. The site provides fascinating insights into ancient trade networks and early Christianity in the region.
You’ll need to arrange transportation from Massawa (about 1,200 Nakfa/$80 for a day trip with driver) and should bring water, sun protection, and good walking shoes.
7. Explore the Dahlak Archipelago
The Dahlak Archipelago comprises over 200 islands scattered across the Red Sea, offering pristine beaches, rich marine life, and excellent snorkeling and diving opportunities.
Dahlak Kebir, the largest island, features ancient cisterns, Islamic ruins, and pearl fishing communities. Smaller islands like Dissei and Madote offer secluded beaches where you might be the only visitor.
Boat trips depart from Massawa’s harbor, with options ranging from day trips (around 1,500 Nakfa/$100 per person) to multi-day excursions with camping on deserted islands (3,000-4,500 Nakfa/$200-300).
Insider Tip: While tour companies charge premium rates, I found I could negotiate directly with local fishermen in Massawa’s harbor for about half the price. The key is arranging a group of 4-6 travelers to share costs. You’ll need to bring your own provisions, but the experience feels much more authentic.
8. Visit the Ancient Monastery of Debre Bizen
Perched dramatically at 2,450 meters above sea level, Debre Bizen is Eritrea’s most important Orthodox Christian monastery. Founded in the 1350s, it houses remarkable religious manuscripts, ancient crosses, and a community of about 100 monks.
The monastery is reached via a challenging 1,000-step climb from the village of Nefasit (about an hour from Asmara). The hike takes 2-3 hours depending on your fitness level, but the spiritual atmosphere and panoramic views make it worthwhile.
Important note: Women are not permitted to enter the monastery itself, though they can enjoy the hike and views. All visitors should dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees.
Unique Experiences in Eritrea
9. Attend a Traditional Music Performance
Eritrean music blends traditional instruments with influences from neighboring regions. In Asmara, catch performances at:
- Asmara Palace Hotel – Hosts cultural shows every Friday and Saturday featuring traditional instruments like the krar (lyre) and kebero (drum)
- Cinema Asmara – Occasionally features concerts by popular local artists
The haunting sound of the one-stringed violin-like masinko still gives me goosebumps when I recall hearing it during a small village celebration outside Keren. Ask your hotel staff about local events happening during your stay.
10. Experience Traditional Cuisine
Eritrean cuisine shares similarities with Ethiopian food but has distinct Italian influences and coastal seafood traditions.
The national dish is injera (sourdough flatbread) with various stews (tsebhi), typically eaten communally from a single large plate using pieces of injera instead of utensils.
Top restaurants in Asmara include:
- Ghibabo Restaurant – A local favorite serving excellent zigni (spicy beef stew) and shiro (chickpea puree)
- Blue Bird Restaurant – Offers both Eritrean and Italian dishes
- Milano Pizzeria – For authentic Italian cuisine with an Eritrean twist
Dish | Description | Where to Try | Price Range (Nakfa) |
---|---|---|---|
Zigni | Spicy beef stew with berbere | Ghibabo Restaurant | 150-200 |
Tibsi | Sautéed meat with peppers and spices | Blue Bird Restaurant | 180-220 |
Shiro | Seasoned chickpea puree | Asmara Restaurant | 100-150 |
Pasta Asmara | Pasta with spicy Eritrean-Italian sauce | Milano Pizzeria | 120-180 |
Kulwa | Lamb dish with tomatoes and jalapeños | Africa Restaurant | 200-250 |
Local Phrase Tip: “Kem’ti iyu” means “It’s delicious” in Tigrinya. Say this to your hosts after a meal, and you’ll make their day!
11. Take the Mountain Road to Keren
The journey to Keren, Eritrea’s second-largest city, takes you through spectacular mountain scenery and traditional villages. Located about 91km northwest of Asmara, Keren offers a more traditional atmosphere than the capital.
Don’t miss the Monday market, one of East Africa’s most vibrant, where Tigre, Bilen, and Hidareb peoples gather to trade livestock, handicrafts, and produce. The British and Italian war cemeteries provide sobering reminders of Eritrea’s role in WWII.
The best way to reach Keren is by shared minibus (100 Nakfa/$7) from Asmara’s main bus station. The journey takes about 2.5 hours with breathtaking views along the way.
12. Visit the Semenawi Bahri Green Belt
The “Green Belt” of Semenawi Bahri (Northern Sea) refers to the lush highland forests on the eastern escarpment between Asmara and Massawa. This microclimate area supports unique flora and fauna, including various bird species and the endangered Eritrean macaque.
Hiking trails range from easy walks to challenging day-long treks. The area around Filfil offers particularly good biodiversity spotting. During my third visit, I finally spotted the elusive Eritrean macaque after three days of patient early morning hikes!
Arrange a guide through your hotel in Asmara (around 800 Nakfa/$53 for a full day including transportation) or join one of the occasional trips organized by foreign residents in Asmara.
Practical Information for Visiting Eritrea
Visa and Travel Permits
Obtaining a visa for Eritrea requires some advance planning:
- Apply through your nearest Eritrean embassy or consulate at least 6-8 weeks before travel
- You’ll need a letter of invitation from an Eritrean sponsor (typically arranged through your hotel or tour operator)
- Visa fees vary by nationality but average around $50-70
Additionally, travel permits are required for journeys outside Asmara. These can be arranged through your hotel or the Ministry of Tourism office in Asmara (Harnet Avenue) for approximately 50 Nakfa per destination.
Money-Saving Tip: Apply for all your travel permits at once rather than individually. In 2023, I discovered that requesting permits for multiple destinations in a single application cut the processing time in half and saved about 150 Nakfa in administrative fees.
Getting Around
Transportation options in Eritrea include:
- Public buses – Inexpensive but often crowded and with limited schedules
- Shared taxis (Ligne) – More comfortable than buses and reasonably priced (100-200 Nakfa for intercity routes)
- Private taxis – Available in Asmara and Massawa, negotiate before entering
- Private car with driver – The most comfortable option, costing around 1,500-2,000 Nakfa per day
Roads between major towns are generally in good condition, though some remote areas have unpaved roads requiring 4WD vehicles.
Accommodation Options
Eritrea offers limited but adequate accommodation options:
City | Budget Option | Mid-Range Option | Luxury Option |
---|---|---|---|
Asmara | Crystal Hotel ($20-30/night) |
Sunshine Hotel ($50-70/night) |
Asmara Palace Hotel ($120-150/night) |
Massawa | Red Sea Hotel ($25-35/night) |
Grand Dahlak Hotel ($60-80/night) |
Massawa Palace ($100-130/night) |
Keren | Keren Hotel ($15-25/night) |
Sarina Hotel ($40-60/night) |
N/A |
My personal preference is the Sunshine Hotel in Asmara, which offers clean rooms, reliable hot water (not guaranteed everywhere), and a helpful staff who can assist with travel arrangements. Their rooftop terrace provides lovely city views at sunset.
Sustainable Travel Tip: Eritrea faces significant water conservation challenges. Most hotels won’t change your towels and sheets daily unless requested. Embrace this practice and take short showers to minimize your impact while saving money on optional water-usage surcharges that some hotels have implemented since 2022.
Money Matters
Eritrea’s currency is the Nakfa (ERN), named after the town where the independence struggle began. Important financial considerations include:
- Eritrea is predominantly cash-based; credit cards are rarely accepted
- Bring enough USD or EUR in cash for your entire stay
- Exchange money only at official banks or your hotel to get the best rates
- The official exchange rate is approximately 15 Nakfa to 1 USD, but rates fluctuate
During my most recent visit in late 2023, I found that using newer, crisp USD bills (series 2013 or newer) got me better exchange rates than older or worn bills.
Internet and Communications
Connectivity in Eritrea is limited:
- Internet access is available at major hotels and some internet cafés in Asmara, but is generally slow
- Mobile coverage exists in major towns but international roaming agreements are limited
- Local SIM cards can be purchased with proper documentation, but data packages are expensive
I’ve learned to embrace the digital detox aspect of visiting Eritrea. During my last trip, I prepared by downloading offline maps, translation tools, and reading material before arrival, which proved invaluable.
Health and Safety
Eritrea is generally safe for travelers, with low crime rates and friendly locals. Health considerations include:
- Bring all necessary medications as pharmacies have limited supplies
- Malaria is present in lowland areas including Massawa; consult your doctor about prophylaxis
- Drink only bottled or purified water
- Medical facilities are basic; comprehensive travel insurance is essential
The biggest health challenge I’ve faced in Eritrea was altitude adjustment in Asmara (2,325m above sea level). Give yourself 1-2 days to acclimatize before attempting strenuous activities.
Best Time to Visit Eritrea
Eritrea’s climate varies dramatically by altitude:
- Highland regions (Asmara, Keren): Mild year-round, with temperatures between 15-25°C (59-77°F)
- Coastal areas (Massawa): Hot and humid, especially May-September when temperatures regularly exceed 40°C (104°F)
- Western lowlands: Hot and dry most of the year
The optimal time to visit is October to March, when highlands are pleasant and coastal areas are bearable. The main rainy season occurs June-August in the highlands.
My mistake during my first visit was trying to see the whole country in July. The coastal heat was unbearable, making exploration difficult. I’ve since learned that November offers the best overall experience, with pleasant temperatures throughout the country and clear skies for photography.
Cultural Etiquette and Tips
Respectful behavior will enhance your experience in Eritrea:
- Dress modestly, especially when visiting religious sites (shoulders and knees covered)
- Ask permission before photographing people or government buildings
- Greet people before beginning conversations or transactions
- Remove shoes when entering homes
- Use right hand for eating and passing objects
During coffee ceremonies, it’s customary to accept at least three cups. The third cup is called “bereka” (blessing). Declining it can be considered impolite.
Local Phrase Tip: “Yekenyeley” (thank you) goes a long way in showing respect for local culture and traditions.
Conclusion: Making the Most of Your Eritrean Adventure
After multiple visits to this extraordinary country, I’m convinced that Eritrea offers one of Africa’s most unique and rewarding travel experiences. From the modernist splendor of Asmara to the timeless coastal charm of Massawa, from mountain monasteries to desert islands, Eritrea packs remarkable diversity into a relatively small area.
Yes, there are challenges—limited infrastructure, bureaucratic hurdles, and connectivity issues—but the rewards far outweigh them. Few destinations offer such authentic cultural experiences and warm hospitality with so few other tourists in sight.
Your 5-Step Action Plan for Visiting Eritrea in 2025:
- Start visa preparations at least 2 months in advance, working with a local hotel or tour operator to secure your invitation letter
- Book accommodations early, especially if visiting during peak season (November-February)
- Pack thoughtfully for diverse climates, including modest clothing for cultural sites and lightweight options for coastal areas
- Download offline resources before arrival: maps, translation tools, and reading material about Eritrean history and culture
- Cultivate patience and flexibility, embracing the relaxed pace and occasional logistical challenges as part of the authentic experience
Remember, the genuine connections you’ll make with locals and the insights you’ll gain into this resilient culture are what make an Eritrean journey truly unforgettable. Come with an open mind, a respectful attitude, and a sense of adventure, and Eritrea will reward you many times over.
Frequently Asked Questions About Traveling to Eritrea
Is Eritrea safe for tourists?
Yes, Eritrea is generally very safe for tourists. The crime rate is low, and violent crime against foreigners is extremely rare. The biggest safety concerns are road safety and health issues rather than crime. However, it’s important to respect local laws and customs, avoid photographing military installations or government buildings, and follow any guidance from local authorities.
How difficult is it to get a visa for Eritrea?
Getting an Eritrean visa requires patience and advance planning. You’ll need a letter of invitation from an Eritrean sponsor (usually arranged through a hotel or tour operator), and processing can take 4-8 weeks. Apply through your nearest Eritrean embassy or consulate. Tourist visas are typically valid for one month and cost approximately $50-70 depending on your nationality.
What is the best way to get to Eritrea?
The main international gateway is Asmara International Airport (ASM). As of 2024-2025, airlines serving Asmara include Egyptian Air (via Cairo), Turkish Airlines (via Istanbul), and FlyDubai (via Dubai). There are also flights from Addis Ababa on Ethiopian Airlines following the peace agreement between Ethiopia and Eritrea, though schedules can be inconsistent.
Can I travel independently in Eritrea or do I need a guide?
Independent travel is possible in Eritrea, though having local assistance for arranging permits and transportation is highly beneficial. While formal guides aren’t mandatory, travel permits are required for journeys outside Asmara. These can be arranged through hotels or at the Ministry of Tourism office. For remote areas, hiring a guide improves the experience and helps navigate language barriers.
What languages are spoken in Eritrea?
Tigrinya is the most widely spoken language, followed by Arabic. In tourist areas, English and Italian are understood to varying degrees, especially among educated Eritreans and those working in hospitality. Learning a few basic phrases in Tigrinya will be greatly appreciated by locals.
Is there reliable internet access in Eritrea?
Internet access is limited and generally slow. Major hotels in Asmara offer WiFi, though connection speeds are typically adequate only for basic browsing and messaging, not video streaming or large downloads. Internet cafés exist in major towns. Mobile data is available but expensive and can be unreliable. Plan to be less connected during your visit.
What should I pack for a trip to Eritrea?
Pack for variable climates depending on your itinerary. For highland areas like Asmara, bring layers as mornings and evenings can be cool. For coastal regions, lightweight clothing is essential. Other essentials include:
- Modest clothing covering shoulders and knees
- Sturdy walking shoes
- Sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses)
- Basic medical kit including prescription medications
- Flashlight (power outages are common)
- Adapters (Eritrea uses Type C and L plugs, 220V)
How much should I budget per day in Eritrea?
Eritrea can be relatively inexpensive compared to other African destinations. A rough daily budget would be:
- Budget: $30-50 (basic accommodations, local restaurants, public transportation)
- Mid-range: $80-120 (comfortable hotels, better restaurants, occasional taxis)
- Luxury: $150-250 (best available accommodations, private transportation, guided excursions)
Are there photography restrictions in Eritrea?
Yes, photography restrictions exist for government buildings, military installations, airports, bridges, and sometimes public infrastructure. Always ask before photographing people, especially in rural areas. Some sites charge small photography fees (typically 50-100 Nakfa). When in doubt, ask local guides or authorities if photography is permitted.
References and Further Reading
- UNESCO World Heritage Centre – Asmara: A Modernist City of Africa
- Lonely Planet – Eritrea Travel Guide
- Official Website of the Government of Eritrea
- BBC Country Profile – Eritrea
- Shabait – Eritrean Ministry of Information Website
- Asmera.nl – Comprehensive Guide to Asmara’s Architecture
- Atlas Obscura – Fiat Tagliero Building
- U.S. Department of State – Eritrea Travel Advisory
- UCL Geography – Asmara: Africa’s Modernist City
- The Architecture of Italian Colonialism in Eritrea as a Contemporary Heritage
- Journeys by Design – Travel Guide to Eritrea
- CNN Travel – Asmara: A Playground for Bold Architectural Ideas