Introduction: Why Myanmar Captured My Heart
The first time I set foot in Myanmar back in 2018, I was completely unprepared for how it would change me. I still remember standing in front of Shwedagon Pagoda as the setting sun transformed its golden surface into a blazing beacon. A young monk approached me, curious about where I was from, and we ended up talking for nearly an hour about life, philosophy, and our different worlds. That conversation sparked my love affair with this country, leading me to return six times since then. Each visit peels back another layer of this complex, beautiful nation that sits at the crossroads of Southeast Asia.
Myanmar (formerly Burma) offers a travel experience unlike any other in Southeast Asia. Less developed than its neighbors Thailand or Vietnam, it maintains an authenticity and cultural richness that’s increasingly rare in our globalized world. From the temple-studded plains of Bagan to the floating gardens of Inle Lake, from bustling Yangon to the remote villages of Chin State, Myanmar rewards travelers who come with an open heart and curious mind.
This guide compiles everything I’ve learned across my multiple visits, including my latest trip in early 2024. I’ll share not just the highlights but the practical realities of traveling in Myanmar, the mistakes I’ve made so you don’t have to, and the insider knowledge that will help you experience the real Myanmar beyond the tourist trail.
Understanding Myanmar’s Current Situation
Before diving into the travel details, it’s essential to understand Myanmar’s current context. The country has experienced significant political changes since 2021. While tourism is slowly rebounding, some areas remain off-limits, and the situation can change quickly.
As of 2025, most major tourist destinations are accessible, but I strongly recommend checking the latest travel advisories before planning your trip. The political situation shouldn’t deter you entirely—tourism brings much-needed income to local communities—but responsible travel means staying informed and being respectful of current realities.
When to Visit Myanmar
Myanmar has three distinct seasons:
- Cool season (November-February): The ideal time to visit with comfortable temperatures (25-30°C) and minimal rain. This is peak tourist season, but even then, crowds are manageable compared to other Southeast Asian destinations.
- Hot season (March-May): Temperatures can soar above 40°C, especially in central regions like Bagan. While challenging, you’ll find fewer tourists and lower prices.
- Rainy season (June-October): Frequent downpours can disrupt travel plans, particularly in coastal areas and the far north. However, the landscapes turn lush green, and you’ll have many places to yourself.
My personal favorite time is late October to early November when the rains have mostly subsided, the countryside is still green, temperatures are pleasant, and the tourist crowds haven’t fully arrived. I’ve found some of my most memorable experiences happened during this shoulder season.
Essential Planning Information
Visa Requirements
Most nationalities require a visa to enter Myanmar. The e-visa system has been reinstated after a pandemic hiatus, making the process relatively straightforward. Apply through the official government website at least two weeks before travel.
Cost: $50 USD for a 28-day tourist visa (as of January 2025)
Pro tip: Don’t leave this to the last minute! On my second trip, I procrastinated and had to pay an expedited processing fee that doubled the cost.
Getting to Myanmar
Yangon International Airport (RGN) is the main gateway to Myanmar, with direct flights from major Asian hubs like Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, and Seoul. Mandalay International Airport (MDL) offers fewer international connections but can be convenient depending on your itinerary.
Airlines that consistently offer reliable service to Myanmar include:
- Thai Airways (via Bangkok)
- Singapore Airlines/Scoot (via Singapore)
- Malaysia Airlines (via Kuala Lumpur)
- Myanmar Airways International (direct from various Asian cities)
I usually fly in via Bangkok, which offers the most frequent connections and often the best fares. My latest round-trip from Bangkok to Yangon cost approximately $220 USD in February 2024.
Money Matters
Myanmar’s currency is the Kyat (MMK), pronounced “chat.” The financial landscape has changed dramatically in recent years:
- ATMs are widely available in major cities and tourist areas but can be unreliable
- Credit cards are accepted at upscale hotels and restaurants in Yangon and Mandalay, but cash is king elsewhere
- U.S. dollars are widely accepted for hotels and some tourist services, but must be in pristine condition (no folds, marks, or tears)
Money-saving insider tip #1: The black market exchange rate can be significantly better than official rates. I’ve found that money changers near Bogyoke Market in Yangon often offer rates 5-8% better than banks. Just be sure to count your kyat carefully before leaving.
Current exchange rate (January 2025): Approximately 2,100 MMK = 1 USD
Connectivity and SIM Cards
Internet access has improved dramatically since my first visit, but remains spotty outside major cities. I recommend:
- Purchasing a local SIM card upon arrival (MPT and Ooredoo offer the best coverage)
- A 10-day tourist SIM with data costs about 15,000 MMK ($7 USD)
- Downloading maps offline via Google Maps before venturing to remote areas
- Installing a VPN before arrival in case of internet restrictions
Must-Visit Destinations in Myanmar
Yangon: The Gateway City
Most journeys begin in Yangon (formerly Rangoon), Myanmar’s largest city and commercial hub. Far from a mere transit point, Yangon deserves 2-3 days of exploration.
Essential Experiences:
- Shwedagon Pagoda – Visit at sunset when local worshippers come after work and the golden stupa glows in the waning light. Entrance fee: 10,000 MMK ($4.75 USD)
- Colonial Walking Tour – Explore the crumbling grandeur of downtown’s British colonial architecture along Pansodan Street and Strand Road
- Circular Train – Ride the slow local train that loops around the city, offering glimpses into everyday life. Ticket: 200 MMK ($0.10 USD)
On my last visit, I stayed in the Sanchaung neighborhood, which offers a more local experience than the downtown tourist zone. This area is filled with teashops and small restaurants where I ate fantastic mohinga (fish noodle soup) for breakfast every morning for just 2,000 MMK ($0.95 USD).
Local phrase: “Mingalaba” (မင်္ဂလာပါ) – Hello/Greetings. Using this simple greeting always brings smiles and often starts wonderful conversations.
Bagan: Temple Wonderland
Bagan’s plain of 2,000+ ancient temples and stupas creates one of Southeast Asia’s most breathtaking archaeological sites. I’ve visited three times now, and it never fails to leave me speechless.
Essential Experiences:
- Sunrise temple viewing – While climbing temples is now prohibited, designated viewing hills offer spectacular panoramas
- E-bike exploration – Rent an electric scooter (20,000 MMK/$9.50 USD per day) to create your own temple-hopping adventure
- Balloon flight – Splurge on a dawn hot air balloon ride for an unforgettable experience ($350+ USD, book months in advance)
The archaeological zone fee is 25,000 MMK ($12 USD) and valid for three days. Stay in either New Bagan or Nyaung U, which offer accommodation options across all budgets.
My biggest mistake in Bagan was trying to see too many temples in one day. The heat is intense, and temple fatigue is real. I now recommend focusing on 3-4 key temples each day, with rest breaks in between. Pack plenty of water, sunscreen, and a hat—the Bagan plain offers minimal shade.
Inle Lake: Floating Gardens and Hill Tribes
Inle Lake offers a glimpse into a unique way of life, where entire communities live on and around the water. The Intha people are famous for their distinctive one-legged rowing technique and floating gardens.
Essential Experiences:
- Full-day boat tour – Visit floating villages, workshops, and markets (25,000-30,000 MMK/$12-14 USD for a private boat)
- Cycling to Red Mountain Estate – Rent bikes in Nyaungshwe and pedal to this lovely winery for sunset views and wine tasting
- Indein pagoda complex – Explore hundreds of weather-worn stupas in this atmospheric site
The lake entrance fee is 15,000 MMK ($7.15 USD). Stay in Nyaungshwe for budget options or at one of the overwater resorts on the lake itself for a splurge.
Money-saving insider tip #2: Share a boat with other travelers to split the cost. Most guesthouses in Nyaungshwe have sign-up sheets where solo travelers can join groups. I saved about 15,000 MMK ($7 USD) doing this on my last visit.
Mandalay: Cultural Heart
Myanmar’s second-largest city gets a bad rap from some travelers, but I’ve found Mandalay richly rewards those who look beyond its dusty, grid-like exterior. As the last royal capital, it remains Myanmar’s cultural and religious center.
Essential Experiences:
- U Bein Bridge – Visit this 1.2 km teakwood bridge at sunset for iconic photos
- Mandalay Hill – Climb barefoot for panoramic city views and to chat with monks practicing English
- Mahamuni Buddha – Witness the morning ritual of washing this sacred Buddha image
- Craft workshops – See traditional gold leaf making, marble carving, and woodwork in action
Don’t make my early mistake of trying to see everything in one day. The ancient cities around Mandalay (Amarapura, Inwa, Sagaing, and Mingun) deserve at least two full days of exploration.
Off the Beaten Path: Hpa-An and Mrauk U
For travelers with more time, these less-visited destinations offer rich rewards:
Hpa-An
This small town in Karen State is surrounded by dramatic karst mountains and cave temples. My most memorable experience here was watching thousands of bats emerge from Bat Cave at sunset, darkening the sky for nearly 30 minutes. Stay at the Soe Brothers Guesthouse, which organizes excellent day tours for around 12,000 MMK ($5.70 USD) per person.
Mrauk U
Often called “the Bagan of the west,” this remote archaeological site features temples with a distinctly different style. Getting here requires effort (flight to Sittwe, then boat journey), but the ruins rising from mist-shrouded hills create an almost mystical atmosphere that few foreign tourists experience.
Money-saving insider tip #3: Instead of hiring private transport between major destinations, use Myanmar’s expanding network of VIP buses. The JJ Express overnight bus from Yangon to Bagan costs around 25,000 MMK ($12 USD) and is surprisingly comfortable with reclining seats and onboard services.
Navigating Myanmar’s Food Scene
Myanmar cuisine remains one of Southeast Asia’s undiscovered treasures, blending influences from India, China, and Thailand while maintaining its distinctive character.
Must-Try Dishes
- Mohinga – Fish broth noodle soup, considered the national dish and typically eaten for breakfast
- Tea Leaf Salad (Lahpet Thoke) – Fermented tea leaves mixed with crunchy beans, nuts, garlic, and chili
- Shan Noodles – Rice noodles with chicken or pork in a light tomato sauce
- Curry Sets – A main curry served with multiple side dishes, rice, and soup
- Ohn No Khao Swè – Coconut milk noodle soup that inspired Thailand’s khao soi
My favorite food experience in Myanmar happens in the teashops found on virtually every street corner. These social hubs serve sweet milk tea (laphet yay) and various snacks. My go-to order is laphet yay with e-kyar kway (fried dough sticks) for dipping, all for about 1,500 MMK ($0.70 USD).
Local phrase: “Sar yit lite la?” (စားရှင်းပြီးလား) – Have you eaten yet? This common greeting reflects how central food is to Myanmar culture.
Where to Eat
Some of my favorite eateries across the country:
City | Restaurant | Specialty | Price Range (USD) |
---|---|---|---|
Yangon | 999 Shan Noodle House | Shan noodles | $2-5 |
Yangon | Feel Myanmar Food | Curry sets | $5-10 |
Bagan | The Moon (2) | Vegetarian cuisine | $3-8 |
Inle Lake | Pancake Kingdom | Avocado pancakes | $2-4 |
Mandalay | Aye Myit Tar | Mandalay-style curry | $5-12 |
One of my worst mistakes was avoiding street food during my first visit out of fear of getting sick. I later discovered that Myanmar street food is generally safe if you follow simple rules: choose busy stalls with high turnover, eat freshly cooked hot food, and avoid raw vegetables if you’re concerned.
Cultural Etiquette: Respecting Local Customs
Myanmar remains a deeply traditional country where observing cultural norms will enrich your experience and earn respect from locals.
Religious Etiquette
- Remove shoes and socks before entering temples, pagodas, and many shops
- Dress modestly at religious sites (shoulders and knees covered)
- Women should never touch or hand items directly to monks
- Ask permission before photographing people, especially monks and nuns
One of my embarrassing mistakes happened at Shwedagon Pagoda, when I sat with my feet pointing toward a Buddha image. A kind elderly man quickly corrected me, explaining that feet are considered the lowest part of the body and should never point toward sacred objects or people.
Social Customs
- Greet people with a slight nod or bow rather than handshakes
- Use both hands when giving or receiving items
- Ask permission before taking photos of people
- Public displays of affection are frowned upon
Local phrase: “Kyeizu tin ba de” (ကျေးဇူးတင်ပါတယ်) – Thank you. Pronouncing this correctly earned me many smiles and often better service!
Sustainable Travel Tips
Traveling responsibly in Myanmar means making choices that benefit local communities while minimizing environmental impact.
Supporting Local Economies
- Stay in locally-owned guesthouses rather than international chains
- Eat at local restaurants where your money goes directly to families
- Purchase souvenirs from artisans or fair-trade shops like Pomelo in Yangon
- Hire local guides who can provide authentic insights while earning fair wages
Environmental Considerations
- Bring a reusable water bottle with filter (I use a LifeStraw) to reduce plastic waste
- Pack out any trash when visiting remote areas
- Choose walking, cycling, or public transport when possible
- Support restaurants using local, seasonal ingredients
Sustainability tip that saves money: Refilling a water bottle at hotels and restaurants (most good ones have purified water stations) saved me approximately 10,000 MMK ($4.75 USD) per week compared to buying bottled water, while preventing dozens of plastic bottles from entering Myanmar’s waste stream.
Practical Travel Tips
Safety and Security
Despite political challenges, Myanmar remains relatively safe for tourists in permitted areas. Common sense precautions apply:
- Avoid political discussions or demonstrations
- Keep photocopies of your passport and visa separate from originals
- Register with your embassy upon arrival
- Don’t photograph government buildings, bridges, or military personnel
Health Considerations
- Visit a travel health specialist 4-6 weeks before departure
- Pack a comprehensive medical kit including diarrhea medication
- Drink only purified or bottled water
- Apply mosquito repellent, especially at dawn and dusk
On my second trip, I made the rookie mistake of not packing enough medications. When I caught a nasty cold in Hsipaw, I struggled to communicate my symptoms at the local pharmacy. I now bring a well-stocked medical kit with clearly labeled medications.
Getting Around
Transport Type | Best For | Approximate Cost | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
Domestic Flights | Long distances | $80-150 one-way | Time-saving but expensive |
VIP Buses | Overnight journeys | $10-20 | Comfortable, air-conditioned |
Local Buses | Budget travel | $2-8 | Basic, often crowded |
Trains | Scenic routes | $3-15 | Slow but atmospheric |
Taxis/Grab | City transport | $2-5 per ride | Grab app works in Yangon |
E-bikes/Scooters | Exploring sites | $5-10 per day | Popular in Bagan, Inle |
Accommodation Recommendations
Myanmar offers everything from basic guesthouses to luxury hotels. Some of my personal favorites include:
- Yangon: Little Yangon Hostel (budget) or Belmond Governor’s Residence (splurge)
- Bagan: Ostello Bagan (mid-range with pool)
- Inle Lake: Viewpoint Ecolodge (sustainable luxury)
- Mandalay: Hotel by the Red Canal (boutique)
Booking tip: During peak season (December-February), book accommodation at least 2-3 months in advance. I learned this lesson the hard way when I spontaneously decided to extend my stay in Bagan but found everything booked solid!
Conclusion: Making the Most of Your Myanmar Adventure
Myanmar isn’t always an easy country to travel through—expect occasional power outages, transportation delays, and moments of cultural confusion. But these challenges are far outweighed by the rewards: authentic interactions with some of the world’s friendliest people, spectacular landscapes largely untouched by mass tourism, and cultural experiences that feel genuinely different from anywhere else.
Despite having visited multiple times, I continue to discover new facets of this complex country with each trip. The Myanmar I experienced in 2024 was different from the one I first encountered in 2018, and I expect it will have evolved again by the time you read this guide in 2025.
5-Step Action Plan for Your Myanmar Trip
- Start planning 3-4 months ahead – Research current conditions, apply for e-visa, and book key accommodations
- Create a focused itinerary – For a first-time two-week trip, I recommend Yangon (3 days) → Bagan (4 days) → Inle Lake (3 days) → Mandalay (3 days) → Yangon (1 day)
- Prepare culturally – Read a book about Myanmar’s history (I recommend “The River of Lost Footsteps” by Thant Myint-U), learn basic phrases, and pack appropriate clothing
- Arrange key transport in advance – Book domestic flights and VIP bus tickets through your accommodation or a reliable agency like 12Go Asia
- Go with an open mind and flexible attitude – The most magical moments often come from unexpected encounters and detours from your planned itinerary
The Myanmar that has captured my heart over six visits isn’t found in any single temple or view, but in countless small moments: sharing tea with a family on a train, joining locals in dawn prayers at a monastery, or watching children play chinlone (a traditional sport) in the golden evening light. Come with patience, curiosity, and respect, and Myanmar will reward you with experiences that linger long after you’ve returned home.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Myanmar safe to visit in 2025?
The main tourist areas (Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake) are generally safe for visitors, though the political situation can change. Always check current travel advisories before booking and while traveling. I’ve personally felt safe during all my visits, including my most recent trip in early 2024.
What’s the best time of year to visit Myanmar?
November to February offers the most pleasant weather—dry and not too hot. December and January are peak tourist season. March to May is very hot, especially in central Myanmar. June to October brings monsoon rains, making some areas difficult to access.
How much money should I budget per day?
Budget travelers can manage on $30-40 USD per day, mid-range travelers should budget $50-80 USD, and luxury travelers $150+ USD. My last trip averaged about $65 USD per day, including comfortable accommodations, good meals, and all activities.
Can I use credit cards in Myanmar?
Credit cards are accepted at upscale hotels, restaurants, and some tour agencies in major cities, but you’ll need cash for most purchases. ATMs are widely available in tourist areas but can be unreliable, so bring US dollars as backup.
Do I need to book tours in advance?
For specialized experiences like hot air ballooning in Bagan, book months ahead. For standard day tours and activities, you can usually arrange these through your accommodation a day or two in advance, often at better prices than booking online.
Is the food safe to eat?
Generally yes, especially in established restaurants. Street food is usually safe if you select busy stalls where food is cooked fresh to order. I’ve eaten widely across Myanmar with only minor stomach issues over my six visits.
How should I dress in Myanmar?
Myanmar is conservative—both men and women should cover shoulders and knees, especially at religious sites. Lightweight, loose-fitting clothing is best for the climate. In major cities like Yangon, younger locals dress more modernly, but modest dress is still appreciated.
Can I travel independently or should I join a tour?
Independent travel is entirely possible and my preferred way to experience Myanmar. However, a good guide can provide valuable cultural context and help navigate language barriers. Consider hiring local guides for specific sites rather than booking an entire package tour.
Is it ethical to visit Myanmar?
This is a complex question with no simple answer. Tourism brings much-needed income to ordinary people, but some tourism revenue does benefit the authorities. Focus on supporting locally-owned businesses and communities. I believe thoughtful, responsible tourism can be a positive force.
What’s one thing most visitors miss?
Many visitors rush between the “big four” destinations without experiencing rural Myanmar. Consider adding a hiking trip around Hsipaw or Kalaw, or visiting Hpa-An’s karst landscapes. These less-visited areas often provide the most memorable experiences.
References and Further Reading
- UK Foreign Office Travel Advice for Myanmar – Current safety information
- Official Myanmar e-Visa Portal – For visa applications
- Lonely Planet Myanmar – Reliable travel information
- Myanmar Responsible Tourism Institute – Guidelines for ethical travel
- Myanmar Water Portal – Information on water safety
- The Irrawaddy – Independent news source on Myanmar
- Go Minh Tun – Excellent Myanmar travel blog by a local
- Ethical Travel in Myanmar – Thoughtful article on responsible tourism
- Tomma Huang’s Myanmar Travel Guide – Detailed blog with practical tips
- Myanmar Times – Local English-language news source