Discovering All Saints, Antigua: My Love Affair with This Hidden Gem
The first time I visited All Saints in Antigua back in 2017, it was completely by accident. My rental car took a wrong turn heading to English Harbour, and suddenly I found myself in this charming, seemingly untouched village that most tourists completely miss. Eight visits later, I’ve formed a special connection with this central Antiguan community that feels worlds away from the resort-heavy coastline.
What strikes me most about All Saints is how it offers an authentic slice of Antiguan life that you simply won’t find in the tourist brochures. The genuine warmth of the locals who now greet me by name, the vibrant Saturday morning market where I’ve learned to haggle (poorly, I might add), and the rhythm of everyday island life continues to draw me back year after year.
In this 2025 guide, I’m sharing everything I’ve learned about navigating All Saints like a local—from the best places to eat real Antiguan food to cultural etiquette that will help you connect with residents. Consider this your insider’s cheat sheet to experiencing the heart of Antigua beyond the beaches.
Getting to All Saints: Transportation Tips
All Saints sits approximately 20 minutes from V.C. Bird International Airport (ANU) and about 15 minutes from St. John’s, making it surprisingly accessible despite feeling worlds away from the tourist crowds.
Your Transportation Options
From my experience (including one memorable breakdown on Fig Tree Drive), here are your best options:
- Rental Car: My preferred method. Expect to pay $45-65 USD daily in 2025 (prices have increased about 15% since the pandemic). Avis and Hertz have airport locations, but I’ve found better rates with local companies like Tropical Rentals.
- Taxis: Readily available but pricey for regular use. A one-way trip from the airport runs about $25-30 USD. Save the number of a reliable driver—mine is Winston at +1 (268) 726-4132, who has rescued me more than once when I’ve stayed out too late at Shirley Heights.
- Local Bus: The most economical option at just EC$3.50 (about $1.30 USD). Catch the #17 bus from St. John’s East Bus Station. They’re easily identifiable by their bright colors and “BUS” license plates.
One mistake I made repeatedly until 2023: not having small bills. Taxi drivers and buses often can’t break large notes, so keep EC$5 and EC$10 notes handy.
Driving in All Saints: What I Wish I’d Known
Driving around All Saints requires some adjustments if you’re from North America:
- Left-side driving: They drive on the left in Antigua, which took me a full day to adjust to my first visit. My tip: put a sticky note on your dashboard saying “STAY LEFT” as a constant reminder.
- Unmarked roads: Many smaller roads in All Saints remain unmarked. My worst navigation disaster was in 2019 when I spent two hours trying to find Betty’s Hope plantation. Use offline Google Maps as cell service can be spotty.
- Potholes: The roads have significantly improved since my first visit, but expect occasional potholes, especially after the rainy season (May-November).
Where to Stay in and Around All Saints
All Saints itself has limited accommodation options, which is part of its charm and why many tourists miss it entirely. However, there are several options within and just outside the village:
Within All Saints
- Seaview Heights Guest House: My personal favorite for experiencing authentic village life. The owner, Ms. Elaine, prepares the most incredible saltfish breakfast on request (EC$25). Rooms from $65 USD/night.
- Local Guesthouses: Several families in All Saints rent rooms informally. Ask at Emmanuel’s Mini Mart on All Saints Road for current availability.
Nearby Options (5-10 minutes drive)
Accommodation | Price Range (2025) | Distance from All Saints | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
Hammock Cove Resort | $550-800/night | 10 mins east | Luxury all-inclusive, my splurge stay in 2022 |
Mango Tree Cottage | $85-120/night | 7 mins south | Peaceful garden setting, kitchenette included |
The Tree House | $110-150/night | 5 mins west | Eco-friendly option with amazing sunset views |
INSIDER TIP: I’ve saved hundreds by staying in All Saints rather than coastal resorts. My strategy: book accommodation in the village and use the money saved to rent a car, giving me the freedom to visit a different beach each day while experiencing authentic Antiguan life.
Must-Try Local Eateries in All Saints
The food scene in All Saints is where you’ll experience the real Antigua—vibrant flavors, incredibly fresh ingredients, and prices that make resort dining seem like highway robbery.
Breakfast & Coffee
- Phyllis’ Corner Bakery: This unassuming spot on All Saints Road makes the best saltfish bakes on the island. Arrive before 8:30 AM as they sell out daily. A full breakfast with bush tea costs just EC$22 (about $8 USD).
- Antigua Village Bakery: Their coconut bread brings tears to my eyes every visit. The sweet, slightly dense loaf pairs perfectly with their strong coffee. Bread EC$7, coffee EC$5.
Lunch & Dinner Spots
- Jerk Center: Located at the junction of All Saints and Liberta Road, this open-air gem serves the most incredible jerk chicken I’ve ever tasted. The smoky, spicy flavor profile is completely different from Jamaican jerk. A quarter chicken with two sides runs EC$35 (about $13 USD).
- Marva’s Kitchen: A true local spot with no website, no sign—just look for the yellow house with plastic tables out front. Thursday is “pepperpot day” when Marva serves this traditional Antiguan stew (EC$40). The rich, slightly sweet flavor comes from locally-grown ingredients.
- Russell’s Bar & Restaurant: The place where I’ve spent countless evenings chatting with locals. Their fried red snapper (market price, usually around EC$65) has ruined me for all other fish dishes. Go on Friday nights when local musicians often stop by.
MONEY-SAVING TIP: Restaurants in All Saints often offer “lunch specials” that are 30-40% cheaper than dinner menu items but with similar portions. I typically eat my largest meal at lunch and have a lighter dinner to save significantly.
Local Food Market
The Saturday morning market in All Saints (7 AM-noon) is my weekly ritual when visiting. Local farmers sell incredibly fresh produce at a fraction of supermarket prices. Look for:
- Black pineapples: Antigua’s special variety, sweeter than any pineapple you’ve tried (EC$5-8 each)
- Christophene (chayote): A mild squash used in many local dishes (EC$3 each)
- Soursop: A large, spiny fruit with creamy white flesh that makes amazing juice (EC$15-20)
My embarrassing market moment: In 2018, I tried to buy soursop, but kept calling it “sourpuss” to the complete amusement of everyone around me. The vendor still calls me “Sourpuss Lady” whenever I return!
Cultural Experiences & Activities in All Saints
Beyond its charming streets and friendly residents, All Saints offers several cultural experiences you won’t find in the typical tourist itineraries.
Community Events Worth Planning Around
- All Saints Anglican Church Sunday Service: Even if you’re not religious, the 9:30 AM Sunday service is a cultural experience with incredible gospel singing. The 175-year-old church building itself is beautiful.
- Dominoes at Russell’s: Sunday afternoons, the sound of dominoes slapping against wooden tables fills the air. Join a game to make instant friends (but be prepared to lose—these players are serious).
- Full Moon Drum Circle: Held monthly at Wallings Nature Reserve just outside All Saints. Local drummers gather from 7-10 PM under the full moon. Donation entry (suggested EC$20).
Cultural Workshops & Classes
One of my favorite discoveries on my third visit was the range of cultural workshops available in All Saints:
- Pottery with Sonia: At her home studio on Church Street, Sonia teaches traditional Antiguan pottery techniques using clay from the island. 2-hour class EC$125 (about $46 USD). Contact her at +1 (268) 723-9016.
- Cooking with Marva: Learn to make authentic Antiguan dishes like ducana (sweet potato dumplings) and fungee (cornmeal okra). EC$150 per person, includes meal and recipes. Arrange through Russell’s Bar.
- Basket Weaving: At the All Saints Community Center, seniors teach traditional sisal basket weaving every Wednesday morning, 9-11 AM. EC$50 donation, materials included.
Nature & Outdoor Activities
The areas surrounding All Saints offer some of Antigua’s most beautiful natural settings:
- Wallings Nature Reserve: Just a 10-minute drive from All Saints center. The Signal Hill hike (moderate difficulty, 45 minutes up) rewards you with panoramic views of the island and on clear days, neighboring Montserrat and Guadeloupe. Entry fee: EC$10 (about $3.70 USD).
- Fig Tree Drive: This scenic rainforest drive begins just south of All Saints. The winding road passes through lush vegetation, fruit stands, and small villages. My favorite stop is Marcia’s fruit stand about 10 minutes in, where she serves fresh-squeezed juice (EC$10).
- Body Ponds: These natural swimming holes east of All Saints remain virtually unknown to tourists. Ask locally for directions as they’re unmarked. Bring water shoes as the rocks can be slippery.
INSIDER TIP: Visit Wallings Nature Reserve early (before 9 AM) to avoid both the heat and the occasional cruise ship groups. I’ve often had the trails completely to myself at this time.
Shopping Like a Local in All Saints
Skip the tourist shops in St. John’s and support the local economy while finding unique items:
Where to Shop
- Emmanuel’s Mini Mart: My go-to for basic groceries and surprisingly good local rum (check out the unmarked bottles behind the counter—the owner’s brother makes it). Much cheaper than supermarkets in tourist areas.
- All Saints Craft Market: Open Tuesday and Saturday mornings. Look for handmade dolls, woven straw items, and local art at a fraction of resort gift shop prices.
- Ms. Hyacinth’s Jams: From her home on Church Road (green house with the red fence), she sells incredible homemade preserves. The pineapple-ginger jam (EC$15) makes a perfect gift to take home.
What to Buy
The most unique souvenirs I’ve found in All Saints:
- Sea island cotton items: Antigua is famous for this ultra-soft cotton. Find scarves and small items at the craft market for 1/3 the price of St. John’s shops.
- Local spice mixes: Pre-blended season-all packets (EC$10) make recreating Antiguan flavors at home much easier.
- Tamarind balls: Sweet-sour candy made from local tamarind (EC$5 for a bag). An acquired taste that I’m now addicted to.
MONEY-SAVING TIP: Prices in All Saints are rarely marked up for tourists because so few visit. However, if you’re obviously foreign, you might still get the “visitor price.” My strategy: ask “How much would you charge your neighbor for this?” with a smile. It usually gets a laugh and a better price.
Connecting with Locals: Language & Etiquette
English is the official language in Antigua, but the local dialect includes unique phrases and pronunciations that have taken me years to fully understand.
Useful Local Phrases
- “Wah gwaan” – What’s going on/How are you? (Reply with “Me deh yah,” meaning “I’m good”)
- “Liming” – Hanging out/relaxing (“We liming later at Russell’s” means we’re meeting there to socialize)
- “Mash up” – Broken, damaged, or sometimes very drunk (“The car mash up” means it’s broken down)
Cultural Etiquette Tips
A few things I’ve learned (sometimes the hard way) about respecting local customs:
- Greetings matter: Always greet people before asking for something. Walking into a shop and immediately asking for an item without saying good morning/afternoon first is considered extremely rude.
- Dress code: All Saints is more conservative than beach areas. I made the mistake of walking into the local mini-mart in a bikini top and shorts my first trip and received very disapproving looks. Shoulders covered and no very short shorts in the village.
- Photos: Always ask before photographing people or their property. I’ve found most Antiguans are happy to be photographed if asked respectfully.
- Island time: Punctuality works differently here. My American impatience has had to adjust—if someone says “right now,” it usually means “sometime soon.”
Practical Information & Money-Saving Tips
Currency & Payments
Antigua uses the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$), currently about EC$2.7 = $1 USD. In All Saints:
- Most small shops and restaurants are cash-only
- The nearest ATM is at the ECAB Bank near the Epicurean supermarket, about 10 minutes drive toward St. John’s
- US dollars are widely accepted but you’ll usually get change in EC$
Insider Money-Saving Tips
- Water strategy: Tap water is safe to drink in Antigua, but I found the taste took some getting used to. Rather than buying bottled water, I bring a filter bottle that’s saved me at least $50 per week. At the Epicurean supermarket, you can also refill water jugs for EC$10.
- Mobile phone hack: Tourist SIM cards sold at the airport are overpriced. Instead, visit the Digicel shop in St. John’s and ask for a local prepaid SIM. I paid EC$20 for the SIM and EC$50 for 6GB of data—about 70% less than the “tourist package.”
- Beach access secret: All beaches in Antigua are public, but access points can be hidden. Near All Saints, Valley Church Beach has a path that avoids the resort access and their parking fee. Look for the small dirt path on the right about 100 yards before the main entrance.
SUSTAINABILITY TIP: Bring a reusable shopping bag—plastic bags are still common in Antigua but creating significant waste issues. When you shop with your own bag at Emmanuel’s Mini Mart, they’ll often give you a small discount or throw in extra fruit.
Health & Safety
All Saints is generally very safe, but sensible precautions help:
- There’s no hospital in All Saints. The nearest medical facility is All Saints Medical Station (basic care only) or Mount St. John’s Medical Centre in St. John’s (full hospital).
- Mosquitoes can be persistent, especially during rainy season. I bring breathable long sleeves and natural repellent.
- Sunburn happens incredibly quickly in Antigua, even on cloudy days. My worst sunburn was on a completely overcast day in 2019 when I skipped sunscreen—I couldn’t move for two days!
Day Trips From All Saints
All Saints makes an excellent base for exploring the island. Here are my favorite day trips that are easily accessible:
English Harbour & Nelson’s Dockyard (20 minutes)
Nelson’s Dockyard, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is Antigua’s most famous historical attraction. Visit on Thursdays to combine with Shirley Heights Lookout for sunset and the weekly barbecue with live steel drum music.
My unexpected find: Skip the touristy restaurants at the Dockyard and eat at Grace Before Meals just up the hill for authentic Antiguan food at half the price.
Devil’s Bridge & Long Bay (30 minutes)
On the eastern side of the island, natural limestone has formed an impressive bridge where the Atlantic crashes beneath. The area provides dramatic photo opportunities, especially at sunrise. Combine with a stop at Long Bay Beach, which has some of the calmest waters for swimming.
Betty’s Hope Sugar Plantation (15 minutes)
This restored sugar plantation offers a sobering look at Antigua’s colonial history. The windmills and historical displays help understand the island’s past and the legacy of the sugar and slave trades. No entry fee, but a donation of EC$5-10 is appreciated.
St. John’s (15 minutes)
Antigua’s colorful capital is worth visiting on Saturday mornings when the local market is in full swing. I recommend:
- Exploring the vibrant produce market for exotic fruits
- Visiting the Museum of Antigua and Barbuda (EC$10 entry)
- Shopping for spices and hot sauces at the craft market
Your 5-Step Action Plan for Experiencing All Saints
After eight visits spanning nearly eight years, I’ve refined the perfect approach to experiencing All Saints authentically:
- Base yourself centrally: Book accommodation in or near All Saints for 3+ days to truly experience the rhythm of village life rather than making it a quick day trip.
- Start with a local connection: Your first morning, visit Phyllis’ Corner Bakery early (7:30-8:30 AM) for breakfast. Introduce yourself and mention you’re staying in the area—this simple act will likely lead to recommendations and introductions that guidebooks can’t provide.
- Mix structured activities with wandering: Plan to visit specific sites like Wallings Nature Reserve, but also allow time for spontaneous exploration—some of my most memorable experiences came from simply walking the village roads and accepting impromptu invitations.
- Participate, don’t just observe: Join a cooking class, attend a church service, or participate in a dominoes game. Active engagement creates memories that passive observation never will.
- Give back in small ways: Purchase snacks from school fundraisers, tip generously at restaurants, or contribute to the Wallings Nature Reserve conservation efforts to ensure your tourism benefits the community.
My most profound Antigua memories come not from pristine beaches but from the evenings spent “liming” on Russell’s porch, learning dominoes from locals who became friends, and the moment three years ago when Ms. Elaine at the guesthouse introduced me to other visitors as “practically Antiguan now.”
All Saints offers what luxury resorts cannot—genuine connection with a place and its people. In a world of increasingly manufactured travel experiences, this unassuming village provides something authentic that stays with you long after your tan fades.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is All Saints safe for tourists?
Yes, All Saints is generally very safe for visitors. Like anywhere, use common sense—don’t display expensive items openly and be aware of your surroundings after dark. I’ve walked throughout the village alone during daylight hours without any concerns. The biggest safety issues I’ve encountered were actually the occasional loose dogs and uneven sidewalks!
When is the best time to visit All Saints, Antigua?
The ideal time is December through April when the weather is drier and temperatures hover around 75-85°F (24-29°C). I’ve found February and March particularly perfect. Hurricane season (June-November) brings more rain and humidity, though prices are significantly lower. My September 2021 visit had several rainy days but was still enjoyable with 40% discounts on accommodations.
Do I need to rent a car to visit All Saints?
While not absolutely necessary, I highly recommend it. Public transportation exists but is limited in frequency. Having a car allows you to explore the surrounding areas and beaches at your own pace. If you’re comfortable with left-side driving and occasional unmarked roads, it’s well worth the investment.
Are there beaches near All Saints?
All Saints is inland, but Antigua is small enough that no beach is more than 20-25 minutes away by car. The closest beaches are Jolly Beach (15 minutes) and Valley Church Beach (15 minutes) to the west, both offering white sand and calm waters. Darkwood Beach (18 minutes) is also stunning and usually less crowded.
What’s the typical budget needed for staying in All Saints?
All Saints is significantly more affordable than coastal areas. For 2025, expect to spend approximately:
- Budget stay: $70-120 USD/day (local guesthouse, eating at local spots, public transport)
- Mid-range: $150-250 USD/day (nicer accommodation, rental car, mix of local and tourist dining)
- Luxury: $300+ USD/day (upscale nearby resort, rental car, upscale dining)
My typical 7-day trips cost around $1,500 including accommodation, car rental, food, and activities—about half what I’d spend staying in a coastal resort area.
Is the tap water safe to drink in All Saints?
Yes, the tap water in Antigua, including All Saints, is generally safe to drink. It comes primarily from desalination plants and is treated. However, the taste can be off-putting to some visitors. I use a filtered water bottle or purchase 5-gallon jugs for longer stays.
Are there medical facilities in All Saints?
All Saints has a basic medical station for minor issues, but for anything serious, you’ll need to go to Mount St. John’s Medical Centre in St. John’s (15 minutes away). I always recommend travel insurance that covers medical evacuation just in case. The closest pharmacy is in Jolly Harbour, about 15 minutes away.
What unique souvenirs should I buy in All Saints?
Look for local hot sauces made with Antiguan Scotch Bonnet peppers, handmade soaps using local ingredients (available at the Saturday market), and sea island cotton items. My favorite unique souvenir is a hand-carved calabash bowl—local artisans transform this native gourd into beautiful, useful items that are lightweight for packing.
References and Additional Resources
- Antigua and Barbuda Tourism Authority – Official tourism website with updated information on entry requirements and events
- Wallings Nature Reserve – Information on trails, conservation efforts, and guided tours
- Antigua Nice – Local website with current events and business listings
- National Parks Antigua – Details on historic sites including Betty’s Hope and Nelson’s Dockyard
- Antigua and Barbuda Meteorological Services – Local weather forecasts and climate information
- Caribbean Journal – Regional news and travel updates
- Things To Do Antigua – Comprehensive activity listings with local insights
- Lonely Planet: Antigua and Barbuda – General travel information and cultural context
- Antigua Observer – Local newspaper for current events and island news
- Island Life Antigua – Blog with insider tips and local business spotlights