Discovering Cox’s Bazar: My Journey from Tourist to Local Expert
The first time I visited Cox’s Bazar in 2018, I made just about every mistake possible. I arrived during monsoon season without checking the weather forecast, overpaid for everything from tuk-tuks to coconuts, and spent three days huddled in my overpriced hotel room watching the torrential rain through foggy windows. Fast forward to 2025, and after a dozen visits to this stunning Bangladeshi coastal gem, I’ve compiled everything I wish I’d known before my first trip.
I’ll never forget standing on Laboni Beach during my second visit, watching the sunset paint the world’s longest natural sea beach in gold and pink hues while savoring a freshly caught hilsa fish from a local vendor who now greets me by name whenever I return. “Apni kemon achen?” (How are you?), he always asks with a genuine smile that embodies the warmth I’ve come to love about this place.
Essential Planning: When to Go and What to Expect
Cox’s Bazar has transformed significantly since the pandemic, with new infrastructure, changing prices, and evolving tourist patterns. Here’s what you need to know for 2025:
Best Time to Visit
After years of trial and error, I’ve found that October to March offers the perfect balance of weather and crowd levels. Here’s my month-by-month breakdown:
| Month | Weather | Crowd Level | Price Level | My Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | Dry, 15-25°C | High (Local Holiday Season) | $$$$ | ★★★☆☆ |
| February | Dry, 18-27°C | Medium-High | $$$ | ★★★★☆ |
| March | Warming up, 20-30°C | Medium | $$$ | ★★★★☆ |
| April | Hot, 25-33°C | Low | $$ | ★★★☆☆ |
| May-September | Monsoon, Heavy Rain | Very Low | $ | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| October | Post-monsoon, 23-31°C | Low-Medium | $$ | ★★★★★ |
| November | Perfect, 20-28°C | Medium | $$$ | ★★★★★ |
| December | Cool evenings, 17-26°C | High | $$$$ | ★★★★☆ |
Pro Tip: I’ve discovered that the two weeks after Bengali New Year (mid-April) offer a sweet spot — the monsoon hasn’t fully arrived, prices drop as local tourists return to work/school, and many accommodations offer significant discounts.
Getting There in 2025
The transportation landscape has improved dramatically since the completion of the new Cox’s Bazar Airport terminal in late 2024:
By Air (Recommended)
- From Dhaka: 55-minute flights now operate hourly between 6am-9pm
- Airlines: Biman Bangladesh, US-Bangla, Novoair, and Regent Airways
- Cost: ৳4,500-8,000 ($42-$75) one-way depending on season
- Insider Tip: Book 3+ months in advance for the best fares. I’ve scored ৳3,200 ($30) tickets by booking early for shoulder season travel.
By Road
- From Dhaka: 5-7 hours by AC bus or private car
- Cost: ৳1,200-1,800 ($11-17) for luxury buses
- Warning: The highway conditions improve yearly, but safety remains a concern. I only recommend this option for adventurous travelers on tight budgets.
My Worst Mistake: In 2019, I decided to save money by taking the overnight “sleeping coach” bus from Dhaka. What the websites didn’t mention was that the road was under major construction. We arrived 6 hours late, completely exhausted, with my backpack covered in red dust that never fully washed out. The ৳3,000 I “saved” compared to flying wasn’t worth the lost day of vacation and laundry bills!
Navigating Neighborhoods: Where to Stay in Cox’s Bazar
Cox’s Bazar isn’t just one beach but a 120km coastline with distinct areas. After staying in virtually every neighborhood, here’s my honest assessment:
Laboni Beach Area (Central Cox’s Bazar)
This is the heart of tourist activity and where most first-timers stay. I recommend it for short trips (2-3 days) or first-time visitors.
Pros:
- Walking distance to the main beach
- Highest concentration of restaurants and shops
- Best transportation connections
- Most English-speaking services
Cons:
- Overpriced everything (30-50% premium)
- Extremely crowded during high season
- Aggressive hawkers on the beach
- Noisy until late hours
Where I Stay:
For mid-range budgets, Ocean Paradise Hotel (৳6,000-9,000/night) offers the best balance of comfort and location. For budget travelers, Hotel Seagull (৳3,000-5,000/night) provides basic but clean rooms within walking distance of everything.
Kolatoli Beach Area (My Personal Favorite)
Just 2-3km north of Laboni, this area offers the perfect balance between convenience and value. This is where I’ve spent most of my trips since 2021.
Pros:
- Cleaner, less crowded beaches
- 20-30% cheaper than Laboni
- Growing number of quality restaurants
- Easier beach access from hotels
Cons:
- 10-15 minute tuk-tuk ride to main town center
- Fewer budget accommodation options
- Beach vendors still present (though less aggressive)
Where I Stay:
My go-to is Long Beach Hotel (৳7,000-12,000/night) during shoulder season when they often run 30% off promotions. For longer stays, I rent apartments through Booking.com in the Kolatoli Beach Road area (৳4,000-6,000/night with kitchen facilities).
Inani Beach (For Peace Seekers)
Located about 35km south of central Cox’s Bazar, this stunning stretch of beach with unique stone formations is my recommendation for travelers seeking natural beauty and quiet.
Pros:
- Dramatically less crowded
- Crystal clear water (best for swimming)
- Unique rock formations for photography
- Authentic local fishing villages nearby
Cons:
- Limited dining options
- Few accommodation choices
- Requires taxi/car for access to main attractions
- Almost no nightlife
Where I Stay:
There’s really only one good option: Inani Bay Resort (৳8,000-15,000/night). While not cheap, it’s worth the splurge for the private beach access and stunning surroundings. I spent three glorious days here in 2024 and barely saw another tourist.
Money-Saving Secret #1: Most hotels in Cox’s Bazar dramatically inflate their online prices. I’ve consistently saved 30-40% by calling directly and negotiating, especially for stays of 3+ nights. Use the online price as your starting point, then politely ask for their “special discount for direct booking.” It works almost every time!
Beach Hopping: Beyond the Main Strand
While most tourists never venture beyond Laboni Beach, the coastline offers diverse experiences worth exploring. Here’s my ranked list of beaches from someone who’s visited them all multiple times:
- Himchari Beach – Just 10km south of town, this stunning beach with waterfalls (seasonal) and forested hills offers the perfect half-day escape. Entry fee: ৳50 for Bangladeshis, ৳300 for foreigners.
- Inani Beach – As mentioned above, the unique rocky shoreline creates stunning scenery unlike anywhere else in Bangladesh. Worth the 35km journey.
- Sonadia Island – This remote island with mangrove forests and pristine beaches requires a boat ride from Moheshkhali Ghat, but rewards with untouched nature and incredible bird watching.
- Teknaf Beach – At the southernmost tip of Bangladesh near Myanmar border, this wild beach offers an adventure for those willing to make the journey.
Money-Saving Secret #2: Rather than booking expensive tours through hotels, head to Burmese Market in central Cox’s Bazar and arrange transportation directly with local drivers. In 2025, a full-day private car with driver costs around ৳3,500-4,500 ($32-42) and can take you to multiple beaches. Gather 3-4 travelers to share the cost. Just be sure to clearly agree on all stops and duration before departing.
Local Cuisine: Where and What to Eat
Cox’s Bazar offers incredible seafood at prices that would make any coastal destination jealous. After countless meals (and a few memorable stomach upsets), here’s my culinary roadmap:
Must-Try Dishes
- Shutki Bhuna – Dried fish in spicy sauce, a regional specialty with an intense flavor. The aroma might initially shock you (I certainly was!), but the taste is incredible.
- Bhetki Fish Fry – Fresh sea bass marinated in Bengali spices and pan-fried to perfection.
- Chingri Malai Curry – Tiger prawns cooked in coconut milk curry. The local version uses fewer chilis than the Dhaka style.
- Loitta Shutki – A dried fish preparation unique to the Chittagong region.
- Pitha – Rice flour dumplings with coconut filling, often found at street stalls in the evening.
Where to Eat: My Tested Favorites
Seafood Excellence
- Mermaid Café – Exceptional seafood in a beautiful beachside setting. Try their signature lobster (৳1,200-1,800) and seafood platters. Located on Laboni Beach.
- Jhawban Restaurant – My personal favorite for authentic local seafood. Their Bhetki Fish Fry (৳400-600) and Chingri Malai Curry (৳500-700) are consistently excellent. Located near Hotel Seagull.
Budget Options
- Poushee Restaurant – Incredible value near Sugandha Beach. A full seafood meal costs ৳250-400 per person. Nothing fancy but absolutely delicious.
- Beach Food Stalls – The row of stalls near Laboni Point serves freshly caught fish grilled over open flames for ৳150-300. Eat where you see locals gathering!
Western/International Options
- Salt Deck – Newly opened in 2024, this rooftop restaurant offers Mediterranean and international cuisine when you need a break from seafood. Relatively expensive (৳600-1000 per main dish).
- Taranga Restaurant – At Sayeman Beach Resort, offers decent attempts at continental cuisine. Their wood-fired pizzas (৳450-700) are surprisingly good.
My Embarrassing Food Mistake: During my first visit, I ordered “special Bhetki” at a beachside restaurant without asking the price. When the bill came, I discovered it cost ৳2,500 ($23) – more than ten times what locals pay for the same dish at non-tourist restaurants! Now I always confirm prices before ordering “specials” at beachfront establishments.
Cultural Experiences: Beyond the Beach
While most come for the endless shoreline, the Cox’s Bazar region offers rich cultural experiences that many tourists miss. Here are my favorite cultural discoveries:
Rakhine Communities
The indigenous Rakhine people have fascinating distinct traditions from mainstream Bengali culture. Visit the Rakhine villages in Moheshkhali Island (1-hour boat ride from Cox’s Bazar) to experience:
- Traditional handloom weaving – you can purchase authentic textiles directly from artisans
- Buddhist temples with unique architectural styles
- Culinary traditions including special brewing techniques
When visiting, greeting elders with “Mengalaba” (hello in Rakhine language) will instantly bring smiles and open doors to deeper cultural exchange.
Fishing Communities
The pre-dawn fish markets at Rezu Khal and Nazirartek offer an authentic glimpse into the coastal economy. Arrive around 5:30am to watch fishing boats return with their overnight catches. The symphony of voices haggling over prices amid the smell of fresh seafood creates an unforgettable sensory experience.
Buddhist Temples
The Aggmeda Khyang monastery houses ancient Buddhist manuscripts and offers a peaceful respite from beach activities. The head monk occasionally gives impromptu talks to visitors in surprisingly good English.
Money-Saving Secret #3: Most tourists pay ৳2,000-3,000 for organized “cultural tours” through hotels. Instead, hire a local guide directly from the tourism information center near Laboni Point for ৳800-1,000 for a half-day. These guides often provide more authentic experiences as they have personal connections in local communities. Ask specifically for guides who speak the local Chittagonian dialect to access places tourists rarely see.
Day Trips: Exploring Further Afield
If staying for more than 3-4 days, these day trips offer refreshing alternatives to beach time:
Maheshkhali Island
Just a 30-minute speedboat ride (৳300-500 per person), this island offers:
- Buddhist and Hindu temples with stunning views
- Salt farms where you can watch traditional salt production
- Adinath Temple complex on a hilltop
- Pristine beaches with far fewer tourists
I recommend hiring a local guide (৳500-700) upon arrival at the jetty who can arrange transportation around the island via motorbike or auto-rickshaw.
Dulahazra Safari Park
Located 50km north of Cox’s Bazar, this relatively new wildlife sanctuary makes a good half-day trip, especially for families. Entrance fee is ৳100 for nationals and ৳500 for foreigners. You’ll see Bengal tigers, various deer species, monkeys, and birds in semi-natural habitats.
Teknaf and St. Martin’s Island
The southernmost point of Bangladesh, Teknaf is about 80km from Cox’s Bazar. From there, boats depart to St. Martin’s Island, Bangladesh’s only coral island. However, note that environmental degradation has sadly impacted its beauty in recent years. If visiting, I strongly recommend:
- Staying overnight on St. Martin’s (day-tripping leaves only 3-4 hours on island)
- Visiting in January-February for clearest water
- Using eco-friendly tour operators like Experience Eco Tours
- Bringing all trash back to the mainland
My Hard-Learned Lesson: In 2022, I decided to visit St. Martin’s as a day trip from Cox’s Bazar. The journey took over 3 hours each way, seas were rough, and we only had about 4 hours on the island before having to return. Even worse, rough weather on the return journey meant a terrifying boat ride in high waves. If you want to visit St. Martin’s, plan to stay at least one night and check weather forecasts carefully!
Sustainable Travel in Cox’s Bazar
Cox’s Bazar’s natural beauty faces significant environmental challenges. Here’s how to enjoy this destination responsibly while also saving money:
Beach Conservation
- Refuse single-use plastics – Bring a reusable water bottle and refill it at your hotel. Many beach vendors now offer coconut water served in the natural coconut shell rather than plastic cups if you specifically request it.
- Join beach clean-ups – Organizations like Save Our Sea host regular weekend clean-up events where you can meet environmentally conscious locals.
- Sustainable souvenirs – Instead of shell products (which damage marine ecosystems), purchase handmade textiles from Rakhine artisans or locally-made jute products.
Ethical Wildlife Tourism
Avoid the unethical elephant rides sometimes offered near Himchari. Instead, consider:
- Guided birdwatching tours in Himchari National Park (around ৳800-1,000)
- Supporting Marine Life Alliance conservation programs
- Visiting the sea turtle conservation project on Sonadia Island during nesting season (November-March)
Supporting Local Communities
The massive Rohingya refugee camps are located 1-2 hours from Cox’s Bazar. While casual visits are inappropriate, you can support ethical initiatives:
- Purchase crafts made by Rohingya artisans through organizations like Rohingya Artisan Group
- Donate to reputable NGOs working in the camps like Action Against Hunger
- Support local businesses rather than international chains
Sustainability Tip That Saves Money: Local fishermen often sell their catch directly on beaches in early morning (5-7am) at prices 40-60% lower than restaurants or markets. Bringing your own reusable container means less plastic waste and often earns you an extra fish or discount from appreciative sellers. I’ve successfully negotiated with beachfront restaurant chefs to cook fish I purchased directly – they typically charge ৳100-200 for preparation, still saving significantly on menu prices while ensuring ultra-fresh seafood.
Safety and Cultural Considerations
Cox’s Bazar is generally safe for tourists, but understanding local customs enhances both safety and cultural appreciation:
Dress Code and Behavior
Bangladesh is a predominantly Muslim country with conservative dress standards, though Cox’s Bazar, as a beach destination, has slightly more relaxed attitudes:
- Women: On main beaches, knee-length shorts/skirts and t-shirts are acceptable. I recommend wearing a lightweight cover-up when moving between beach and hotel. For local markets or non-beach areas, shoulders covered and pants/long skirts are more appropriate.
- Men: Shorts are fine on beaches, but shirt-wearing is expected even while swimming for locals. When visiting religious sites or local communities, long pants show respect.
- Public affection: Keep displays of affection discreet, even on tourist beaches.
Water and Beach Safety
- Cox’s Bazar has strong undercurrents in some areas. Swim only in designated safe zones, typically marked by flags.
- Lifeguards are present on main beaches but may not meet international standards.
- Water quality varies seasonally; avoid swimming after heavy rains.
- The safest swimming conditions are typically found at Laboni and Kolatoli beaches where lifeguards monitor swimmers.
Health Precautions
- Drink only bottled or properly filtered water
- Use mosquito repellent, especially at dawn/dusk
- Bring basic medicines including anti-diarrheal medication and rehydration salts
- The best medical facility is Cox’s Medical Centre near Hotel Seagull, though serious issues require evacuation to Chittagong or Dhaka
Cultural Mistake I Made: During my second visit, I innocently offered to shake hands with an elderly female shopkeeper. She politely declined, and I later learned that many conservative Bangladeshi women avoid physical contact with men outside their family. Now I wait for locals to initiate handshakes or simply greet with a slight bow and “Assalamu alaikum” (peace be upon you), which is always appreciated.
Your 2025 Cox’s Bazar Action Plan
After numerous visits spanning seven years, I’ve developed this 5-step blueprint for making the most of your Cox’s Bazar experience:
1. Time Your Visit Strategically
Book your trip during the October-November or February-March shoulder seasons for the optimal balance of good weather, lower prices, and manageable crowds. Avoid Bengali holiday periods, particularly the Eid festivals when domestic tourism peaks.
2. Diversify Your Beach Experience
Don’t spend your entire trip on one beach. Dedicate days to exploring Himchari, Inani, and at least one island excursion to experience the full spectrum of coastal landscapes. The morning light at Inani Beach creates magical photo opportunities that I still treasure years later.
3. Connect With Local Culture
Allocate at least one full day to non-beach activities: visit a Rakhine village, explore Buddhist temples, or wander through local markets like Burmese Market. Learning a few Bengali phrases opens doors to authentic experiences tourists rarely encounter.
4. Support Sustainable Initiatives
Choose accommodations with environmental commitments, participate in a beach clean-up, and patronize restaurants that source seafood responsibly. The new zero-waste shop near Hotel Sayeman provides refillable toiletries perfect for travelers.
5. Create a Balanced Itinerary
A perfect 5-7 day Cox’s Bazar trip includes:
- 2-3 days at main beaches (Laboni/Kolatoli)
- 1 day exploring Himchari National Park
- 1 day trip to Maheshkhali or Sonadia Island
- 1 day visiting cultural sites and local markets
- 1 day relaxing at Inani Beach
By following this approach, you’ll experience the destination as a traveler rather than a tourist, creating lasting connections with this beautiful part of Bangladesh.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Cox’s Bazar safe for solo female travelers?
Cox’s Bazar is generally safe for solo female travelers with proper precautions. Stay in well-reviewed accommodations in main tourist areas, dress modestly (covering shoulders and knees), and avoid isolated beaches after dark. Local women rarely swim in public, so be prepared for extra attention if you do. Consider joining group tours for more remote explorations. I’ve met several solo female travelers who had positive experiences by respecting local customs while still enjoying the destination.
What’s the internet/connectivity situation in Cox’s Bazar?
As of 2025, 4G coverage is excellent in central Cox’s Bazar and good in most popular tourist areas. Major hotels offer reliable WiFi, though speeds vary. For independent connectivity, I recommend purchasing a local SIM card from Grameenphone or Robi at the airport in Dhaka or from official shops in Cox’s Bazar town (bring your passport for registration). A 10GB data package costs approximately ৳350-500 ($3-5) and typically lasts a week for normal usage.
How much cash should I bring, and can I use credit cards?
While credit card acceptance has improved dramatically since 2022, cash remains king in many situations. Mid-range and upscale hotels, restaurants, and some shops accept Visa and Mastercard, but smaller establishments, transportation, and markets are cash-only. Most hotels charge a 3-5% fee for card payments. ATMs are available in central Cox’s Bazar but may have withdrawal limits of ৳10,000-30,000 per transaction. I recommend bringing enough cash for your entire stay, with ৳5,000-8,000 ($45-75) per day as a comfortable budget for mid-range travelers.
What should I pack that’s not obvious?
Beyond the usual beach essentials, I recommend:
- Reef-safe sunscreen (difficult to find locally)
- Water shoes for rocky beaches like Inani
- Modest swimwear that covers more than typical western styles
- Lightweight scarf/sarong for women (useful for impromptu temple visits)
- Portable water filter if you’re environmentally conscious
- Power bank (occasional power outages occur)
- Basic first aid supplies including rehydration salts
Is it possible to visit the Rohingya camps near Cox’s Bazar?
The Rohingya refugee camps are not tourist attractions, and casual visits are discouraged and often prohibited without proper authorization. If you have a professional or academic interest, you must coordinate with NGOs working in the camps well in advance. These organizations sometimes accommodate researchers, journalists, or volunteers with relevant skills, but this requires significant advance planning and official clearance. Instead of visiting, consider supporting humanitarian organizations working with refugees through donations.
What’s the tipping culture in Cox’s Bazar?
Tipping expectations have evolved with increased tourism. In upscale restaurants, a 5-10% tip is appreciated but not mandatory (check if service charge is already included). For hotel staff, ৳50-100 per day for housekeeping is generous. Tour guides typically expect ৳500-1,000 for a full day, while taxi/tuk-tuk drivers don’t expect tips for standard fares but appreciate rounding up. Small gestures like offering cold drinks to drivers on hot days often create more goodwill than conventional tipping.
References and Further Reading
- Lonely Planet: Cox’s Bazar Travel Guide – Comprehensive overview with regularly updated practical information
- Bangladesh Tourism Board: Cox’s Bazar – Official government tourism information
- Responsible Travel: Bangladesh Guide – Ethical tourism considerations
- Weather and Climate: Cox’s Bazar – Detailed monthly weather information
- The Daily Star: Environment Section – Bangladesh’s leading English newspaper with articles on coastal environmental issues
- Backpackers Bangladesh Facebook Group – Active community of travelers sharing current information
- Wikitravel: Cox’s Bazar – User-generated travel information
- TripAdvisor: Cox’s Bazar – Recent reviews and traveler photos
- Civil Aviation Authority of Bangladesh – Flight information and airport details
- World Nomads: Bangladesh Safety Guide – Updated safety information
- Marine Life Alliance – Local conservation organization working on beach and marine protection
- DigFind Bangladesh Travel Guide – Locally produced travel content with insider tips