Introduction: My Journey Through Goma’s Evolving Landscape
The first time I arrived in Goma in 2018, I was completely unprepared. Despite hours researching online, nothing could ready me for the stark contrast between the azure waters of Lake Kivu and the black volcanic rock that still blankets parts of the city from the 2002 Nyiragongo eruption. Seven visits later, including an extended stay during the pandemic, I’ve compiled this cheat sheet based on countless mistakes, unexpected joys, and hard-earned knowledge about this complex, fascinating gateway to eastern Congo.
Goma has transformed dramatically in recent years, with new infrastructure projects, shifting security situations, and a growing expat community working with the numerous NGOs based here. This guide reflects the current reality of traveling to Goma in 2025, with practical advice you won’t find in outdated guidebooks or generic travel sites.
“If you want to understand Congo’s resilience, spend time in Goma. The city rebuilds itself from volcanic ash time and again.” – Local saying I learned during my first visit
Essential Planning: Before You Go
Visa Requirements and Documentation
Obtaining a DRC visa has become significantly more streamlined in 2025, but it’s still not a last-minute process. As of my latest visit in January 2025, you have two main options:
- E-visa: Apply through the official government portal. Cost is $105 for most nationalities. Processing typically takes 3-5 business days, though I’d recommend applying at least 2 weeks before travel.
- Embassy visa: If you’re in a neighboring country, applying at a DRC embassy can sometimes be faster. I’ve done this in Kigali with a 48-hour turnaround.
Essential documentation to carry (physical copies plus digital backups):
- Passport valid for at least 6 months with blank pages
- Printed visa confirmation
- Yellow fever vaccination certificate (strictly enforced as of 2025)
- Proof of accommodation bookings
- Return/onward flight confirmation
- At least 2 passport photos (for unexpected permits or registrations)
Insider Tip: I always carry a USB drive with scanned copies of all my documents, plus $50 in small U.S. bills for unexpected “administrative fees” at border crossings. This has saved me countless times from arbitrary delays.
Getting to Goma: Transportation Options
Goma International Airport (GOM) has seen significant improvements since the 2021 renovations, but flights remain limited and relatively expensive. As of 2025, these are your best options:
By Air:
- Direct international flights: Ethiopian Airlines (from Addis Ababa), Kenya Airways (from Nairobi), and RwandAir (from Kigali) offer regular service.
- Domestic connections: Congo Airways and CAA connect Goma with Kinshasa several times weekly.
Overland from Rwanda:
The most common entry point remains the Grande Barrière border crossing from Gisenyi, Rwanda. This is how I’ve entered most frequently, and the process has become more organized, though still somewhat chaotic.
The border is open from 6 AM to 6 PM daily. Morning crossings (before 10 AM) typically have shorter queues. Budget at least 1-2 hours for the crossing process, and be prepared for unofficial “processing fees” of $5-10.
Accommodation Options: Where to Stay in Goma
Goma’s accommodation scene has expanded dramatically since my first visit. The post-pandemic tourism revival has brought new options at various price points:
High-End Options ($150-300/night):
- Hotel La Joie – My personal favorite for its reliable Wi-Fi and generator power (crucial during Goma’s frequent outages). The lakeside restaurant serves excellent fresh fish.
- Ihusi Hotel – The classic expat choice with the best pool in town, but showing its age in 2025.
Mid-Range Options ($60-120/night):
- VIP Palace Hotel – Centrally located with surprisingly good breakfast.
- Hôtel Beau Rivage – Basic but clean rooms with Lake Kivu views.
Budget Options ($25-50/night):
- Syaj Hostel – New in 2024, offering dorm beds and private rooms.
- Christ Roi Guest House – Simple, safe missionary-run accommodation.
Money-Saving Tip: For stays longer than 3-4 days, negotiate directly with hotels for significant discounts. On my three-week stay in 2023, I secured a 40% reduction at VIP Palace simply by paying cash upfront and requesting a weekly rate.
Accommodation Type | Price Range (USD) | Typical Amenities | Power Reliability |
---|---|---|---|
Luxury Hotel | $150-300 | Pool, restaurant, Wi-Fi, AC, 24/7 security, generator | Excellent (24/7 with generator) |
Mid-Range Hotel | $60-120 | Restaurant, Wi-Fi, fans or limited AC, generator during peak hours | Good (16-20 hours/day) |
Budget Hotel/Hostel | $25-50 | Basic room, shared facilities, limited or no generator | Variable (8-12 hours/day) |
Guesthouse/Missionary | $15-30 | Very basic, often with curfews | Poor (dependent on city supply) |
Navigating Goma: Getting Around Safely
Transportation Within the City
Goma’s transportation infrastructure has improved somewhat, but remains challenging. The volcanic rock roads damage vehicles quickly, which is why you’ll see so many ancient Toyota Land Cruisers still in service.
Options for getting around:
- Moto-taxis (“boda-bodas”): The fastest way to navigate Goma’s traffic. Standard rates in 2025 are 1,000-2,000 Congolese Francs ($0.50-1) for short trips. Always negotiate before getting on and insist on helmets (bring your own if possible – I travel with a collapsible bicycle helmet).
- Taxi cars: Usually ancient Corollas or similar. Expect to pay 5,000-10,000 Francs ($2.50-5) for cross-town journeys.
- Private hire: Most reliable hotels can arrange drivers for $40-60 per day with a car, or $80-100 with a 4×4.
Safety Tip: After dark (post 6:30 PM), always use private arranged transportation rather than hailing vehicles on the street. My colleague learned this the hard way when he was robbed in an unmarked taxi in 2022.
“Pole pole” (slowly-slowly in Swahili) is the approach to take with Goma transportation. Nothing moves quickly, and patience is essential.
Safety Considerations: My Real Experience
Let me be candid: Goma’s security situation fluctuates. During my 2023 visit, the M23 rebel activity to the north created tension, while my early 2025 visit was relatively calm. Always check the latest security updates before and during your visit.
My personal safety rules for Goma have kept me incident-free across seven visits:
- Register with your embassy upon arrival (most maintain a presence in Goma)
- Avoid photography near government buildings, military installations, or the border
- Don’t walk alone after dark
- Keep valuables minimal and discreet (I wear a simple Casio watch rather than anything flashy)
- Carry only the cash needed for the day (with emergency $50 hidden separately)
- Be aware of your surroundings and trust your instincts
Mistake I Made: During my second visit, I attempted to photograph the stunning sunset over Lake Kivu from near the border area. Military police detained me for two hours and deleted all my photos. Now I know which areas welcome photography and which don’t.
Communication and Connectivity
Staying connected in Goma has become easier in 2025, but prepare for daily interruptions:
Mobile Networks:
- Vodacom and Airtel offer the best coverage in Goma
- SIM cards cost around $5 and require registration with your passport
- Data packages: 1GB costs approximately 10,000 Francs ($5)
Money-Saving Tip: Buy data bundles during promotional periods (usually announced via SMS). I’ve received up to 50% bonus data on weekend purchases.
Power Outages:
Electricity in Goma remains unreliable in 2025. Even high-end hotels experience daily outages. Essential items I always pack:
- High-capacity power banks (at least 20,000mAh)
- Multi-plug adapter with surge protection
- Headlamp (more practical than a flashlight for hands-free use)
Cultural Navigation: Etiquette and Local Customs
Language Essentials
French is the official language, while Swahili is widely spoken in Goma. English is limited to those working with international organizations. A few essential phrases I’ve found invaluable:
- “Jambo” (Hello)
- “Asante” (Thank you)
- “Pole sana” (I’m very sorry/excuse me)
- “Bei gani?” (How much?)
- “Kidogo” (A little/please reduce)
The phrase “Hakuna matata” (no problem) is genuinely used daily here, not just in Disney movies! When things go wrong—and they will—responding with “hakuna matata” rather than frustration will earn you respect.
Cultural Sensitivities
Eastern Congo has experienced decades of conflict, and Goma bears these scars. Some essential cultural awareness:
- Dress modestly (shoulders covered, no short shorts)
- Ask permission before taking photos of people
- Greet people before beginning any transaction or question
- Be patient with bureaucracy and service delays
- Avoid political discussions with new acquaintances
Personal Anecdote: During my 2022 visit, I made the mistake of rushing into a conversation with a shopkeeper without proper greetings. He refused to serve me until another customer explained I needed to start with “Jambo” and ask about his day before requesting what I wanted to buy. That simple lesson in courtesy has served me well ever since.
Goma’s Must-Experience Neighborhoods & Areas
Himbi Quarter
The expat heart of Goma, where you’ll find most international restaurants, upscale hotels, and NGO offices. Walking along Avenue du Lac provides beautiful Lake Kivu views and access to the lakeside restaurants.
Birere Market District
The bustling commercial heart of Goma, where you can find everything from fresh produce to electronics. The narrow alleys packed with stalls offer the most authentic local experience, but keep valuables secure and visit during daylight hours.
Insider Tip: The best fabric shopping is on the western edge of Birere, where Congolese women select materials for custom clothing. I’ve found stunning prints for $5-10 per yard that would cost $50+ in the US.
Volcanique Quarter
Named for the volcanic eruption that covered this area in 2002, Volcanique shows Goma’s resilience. Homes and shops built directly on the black lava rock create a surreal landscape. This is where I stay with local friends when not in hotels.
Unforgettable Experiences: What to Do in Goma
Virunga National Park Excursions
Africa’s oldest national park lies just outside Goma and offers some of the continent’s most spectacular experiences. Advance booking is essential through the official Virunga website.
Options include:
- Mountain gorilla trekking – $400 per person in 2025 (a significant decrease from the $700 price in 2022, implemented to boost tourism recovery)
- Nyiragongo volcano climb – $300 per person (an overnight trek to see the world’s largest lava lake)
- Tchegera Island boat trips – $100-150 for day visits
My Experience: The Nyiragongo climb was physically challenging but utterly worth it. Standing at the crater rim as darkness fell and the massive lava lake below illuminated the clouds from beneath remains the most otherworldly experience of my travels. Pack very warm clothes – temperatures at the summit drop below freezing!
Security note: Virunga activities occasionally suspend due to security concerns. As of early 2025, all activities have resumed with armed ranger escorts, but check the current situation before booking.
Lake Kivu Experiences
The stunning Lake Kivu forms Goma’s southern border and offers several activities:
- Beach clubs – Ihusi Hotel and Tam-Tam Beach Club offer day passes ($5-10) for swimming and lakeside relaxation
- Boat trips – Hire small boats at the port for $20-30/hour to explore the shoreline
- Sunset drinks – My favorite evening ritual, with VIP Palace’s terrace offering the best lake sunset views
Surprising Discovery: Lake Kivu contains high levels of dissolved methane gas, making it one of the few lakes in the world where you don’t feel fish brushing against you while swimming. The methane extraction project (visible from Goma) has become an important energy source for the region.
Goma’s Arts and Culture
Despite ongoing challenges, Goma has a vibrant creative scene that has flourished as a form of resilience:
- Yolé! Africa Cultural Center – Hosts music performances, art exhibitions, and dance workshops. I stumbled upon an incredible underground hip-hop showcase here that showcased Congo’s political consciousness through music.
- Talking Drums Studio – Recording studio that sometimes offers public sessions where you can watch local musicians work.
- Streetside Painting Galleries – Along Avenue du Marché, local artists display vivid paintings depicting Congolese life, landscapes, and wildlife.
Money-Saving Tip: Purchase art directly from Goma’s creators rather than from hotel gift shops. Not only will you pay 30-50% less, but 100% goes to the artist. I’ve bought stunning paintings for $30-50 that similar touristy areas would price at $150+.
Practical Matters: Money, Health, and Essentials
Currency and Payments
The official currency is the Congolese Franc (CDF), but US dollars are widely accepted for larger purchases. As of February 2025, $1 ≈ 2,000 CDF, though this fluctuates frequently.
Money tips:
- Bring crisp, new US dollar bills printed after 2013 (older or damaged notes are often rejected)
- Small denominations ($1, $5, $10) are invaluable for daily expenses
- ATMs exist but are unreliable – Trust Bank and Equity Bank ATMs near the Rwanda border are most dependable
- Credit cards are accepted only at high-end hotels and some tour operators (with 3-5% surcharge)
- Always count change carefully – mistakes are common
Money-Saving Hack: Exchange money with trusted hotel staff rather than at forex bureaus. I’ve consistently received 3-5% better rates this way. My contact at Hotel La Joie has given me excellent rates for years without commission.
Health Considerations
Medical infrastructure in Goma is limited. Prevention is your best strategy:
Essential preparations:
- Yellow fever vaccination (required for entry)
- Malaria prophylaxis (I use doxycycline, but consult your doctor)
- Comprehensive travel insurance with evacuation coverage
- Basic medical kit including:
- Prescription antibiotics
- Antimalarial standby treatment
- Oral rehydration salts
- Anti-diarrheal medication
- Strong insect repellent (DEET 30%+)
Recommended Clinic: In emergencies, Heal Africa Hospital (formerly DOCS) on Avenue de la Corniche has the most reliable care. Save their number: +243 992 902 632.
Personal Mistake: During my 2020 visit, I ran out of insect repellent and thought one night without it wouldn’t matter. I received over 20 mosquito bites and spent the next day worried about malaria. Now I carry double my anticipated needs of crucial supplies.
Packing Essentials for Goma
Beyond standard travel items, these Goma-specific essentials have saved my trips:
- N95 masks – For volcanic dust that still occasionally blows through the city
- Portable water filter or purification tablets – Tap water is unsafe
- Lightweight rain jacket – Sudden downpours are common year-round
- Closed shoes with thick soles – The volcanic rock is sharp and damaging to regular shoes
- Photocopies of all documents – Officials sometimes request copies and don’t return them
- Portable door lock – For added security in budget accommodations
- Protein bars – For unexpected transportation delays
Unexpected Essential: Baby wipes are invaluable during water outages, dusty travel days, and for cleaning hands before meals at local restaurants. I go through a pack every 2-3 days in Goma.
Food and Dining: From Street Food to Fine Dining
Local Cuisine Worth Trying
Congolese food blends influences from across Central Africa, with these standout dishes in Goma:
- Grilled tilapia – Caught fresh from Lake Kivu, often served whole with pili-pili (hot sauce)
- Fufu – Starchy side dish made from cassava flour, eaten with stews
- Chikwangue – Fermented cassava paste wrapped in banana leaves
- Pondu – Cassava leaves cooked with palm oil and spices (similar to collard greens)
- Sambaza – Tiny sardine-like fish from Lake Kivu, fried crispy and eaten whole
The aroma of grilling fish along Lake Kivu’s shore at sunset, mixed with the charcoal smoke and pili-pili sauce, remains one of my most vivid sensory memories of Goma.
Where to Eat: My Tested Recommendations
High-End ($15-30 per meal):
- Coco Lodge – Excellent international cuisine with lake views. Their mushroom risotto surprisingly rivals what I’ve had in Italy.
- La Petite Goma – French-Congolese fusion in a colonial-era building. Try the fish in coconut sauce.
Mid-Range ($8-15 per meal):
- Olive Garden (no relation to the American chain) – Reliable Italian options and great coffee.
- Salt & Pepper – Indian cuisine with good vegetarian options.
Budget-Friendly ($3-7 per meal):
- Mama Samia’s – No sign, just look for the blue door near Hotel Cap Kivu. Best local food in town. Order the “plat complet” (complete plate) for a sample of daily offerings.
- Doga Doga – Simple lakeside grill serving the freshest fish.
Street Food ($1-3): The grilled corn with pili-pili along the lake shore is a must-try, as are the meat skewers (brochettes) sold from portable grills in the evening.
Food Safety Tip: The rule “cook it, peel it, or forget it” serves well in Goma. I’ve had the most digestive issues from fresh salads and unpeeled fruits. When trying street food, patronize stalls with high turnover and where you can see the food being cooked.
Budget Navigation: Managing Costs in Goma
Typical Costs and Budgeting (2025 Prices)
Expense Category | Budget Range | Mid-Range | Comfort |
---|---|---|---|
Accommodation (per night) | $15-30 | $60-120 | $150-300 |
Meals (per day) | $10-15 | $20-35 | $40-60 |
Local Transportation (per day) | $3-5 | $10-15 | $40-60 (private hire) |
Activities/Excursions | $0-20 | $50-100 | $300+ (Virunga) |
Water/Drinks (per day) | $2-4 | $5-8 | $10-15 |
Daily Budget Totals:
- Backpacker/Budget: $50-70 per day
- Mid-Range Traveler: $120-200 per day
- Comfort Traveler: $300-500+ per day
Money-Saving Insider Tips
- Transportation pooling: Connect with other travelers at your hotel to share private transportation costs, especially for airport transfers which can cost $30-40 each way.
- Meal timing strategy: Many restaurants offer 20-30% discounts for early dinner (before 6 PM) or lunch specials that are the same portions as dinner at half the price.
- Local SIM arbitrage: Buy a Rwandan SIM if crossing from Rwanda – data packages are about 40% cheaper, and the signal works in Goma.
- Bulk water savings: Instead of buying individual water bottles, purchase 5-10L jugs from supermarkets and refill a personal bottle. This saved me approximately $5-7 daily.
- Accommodation negotiation: Goma hotels regularly operate below capacity. I’ve successfully negotiated 25-40% discounts for stays longer than 3 nights, especially during weekdays and the rainy season (November-January).
Surprising Savings: When I needed new hiking shoes after the volcanic rock destroyed mine, I discovered Goma’s secondhand clothing market (“mitumba”) near Virunga Market. I purchased nearly-new name-brand hiking shoes for $15 that would cost $120+ at home.
Sustainable and Ethical Travel Choices
Making ethical choices in Goma also often translates to cost savings:
- Refillable water bottle + purification tablets – Saves money while reducing plastic waste in a city with limited waste management
- Local markets over supermarkets – Supporting local vendors directly while paying less
- Community tourism initiatives – Organizations like Virunga Community Tourism offer authentic experiences where proceeds support local development
- Solar chargers – Reduce generator dependency while ensuring your devices stay powered
Ethical Consideration: North Kivu province has suffered from conflict minerals trading. When purchasing jewelry or crafts, ask about material sourcing. Reputable vendors will be transparent about their supply chains.
Conclusion: Your 5-Step Goma Action Plan
Goma challenges visitors with its complex history, infrastructure limitations, and security considerations. Yet it rewards the prepared traveler with extraordinary experiences, from glowing lava lakes to encounters with mountain gorillas, all against the backdrop of Congolese resilience and creativity.
As someone who’s navigated Goma’s evolution over seven years, I can assure you that preparation makes all the difference between a stressful ordeal and a transformative journey.
Your 5-Step Goma Preparation Plan:
- Documentation & Security: Apply for your visa at least 2 weeks ahead, arrange comprehensive insurance with evacuation coverage, and register with your embassy upon arrival.
- Health Preparation: Complete required vaccinations (especially yellow fever), pack a comprehensive medical kit, and arrange malaria prophylaxis.
- Financial Planning: Bring new USD in various denominations, notify your bank of travel, and budget 15% extra for unexpected expenses.
- Connection Arrangement: Book accommodation with generator backup, organize airport pickup in advance, and download offline maps of Goma.
- Itinerary Creation: Reserve Virunga activities weeks in advance if interested, but maintain flexibility for security changes or transportation delays.
Remember that Goma operates on “Congo time” – patience is not just a virtue but a necessity. The city’s nickname among expats, “Go-Maybe,” reflects the need for adaptability with flights, services, and plans.
Despite the challenges, or perhaps because of them, my connections with Goma and its people remain among my most valued travel experiences. The friend who helped me when I was stranded by a canceled flight, the guide who shared family stories while showing me the lava-covered cathedral, the artist who captured Nyiragongo’s eruption in vibrant paintings – these human connections transcend the logistical complications.
If you approach Goma with preparation, respect, and flexibility, you’ll discover a destination that few experience but none forget.
Frequently Asked Questions About Traveling to Goma
Is Goma safe for tourists in 2025?
Goma itself has stabilized significantly since 2022-2023, with improved security in the city center. However, the surrounding North Kivu province continues to experience periodic conflict. Tourists who stay in recommended areas, register with their embassy, follow security updates, and use reputable transportation generally have safe experiences. Solo female travelers should take additional precautions, particularly after dark.
What’s the best time of year to visit Goma?
The dry seasons (June-August and December-February) offer the most reliable conditions for gorilla trekking and volcano climbing. However, June-August sees higher tourist numbers and prices. I personally prefer January-February when visitor numbers are lower but weather remains mostly favorable.
Can I use credit cards in Goma?
Credit card acceptance remains limited to high-end hotels, tour operators, and a few restaurants as of 2025. Even where accepted, system outages are common. Cash (USD and Congolese Francs) remains essential for most transactions.
Is it possible to visit Goma as a day trip from Rwanda?
Technically yes, but I strongly advise against it. Border crossings can be time-consuming and unpredictable. Additionally, Goma deserves more than a few hours, and day visitors miss the city’s evening atmosphere when locals gather along Lake Kivu. If your schedule is tight, a minimum one-night stay allows for a more authentic experience.
How reliable is internet connectivity in Goma?
Internet has improved significantly since 2020, with 4G coverage now available through Vodacom and Airtel in central Goma. However, outages remain common, especially during power cuts or heavy rain. For crucial online tasks, mornings typically offer the most reliable connectivity before peak usage times.
What vaccinations do I need for Goma?
Yellow fever vaccination is legally required for entry. Additionally, the CDC and WHO recommend typhoid, hepatitis A and B, meningitis, and updated routine vaccines (measles, tetanus, etc.). Rabies vaccination is recommended if you’ll spend significant time outdoors or around animals.
Is tap water safe to drink in Goma?
No. Tap water is not safe for drinking, brushing teeth, or washing fruits and vegetables. Use bottled water or purify tap water with reliable methods like boiling for 1+ minutes, using purification tablets, or employing a quality water filter.
How much cash should I bring to Goma?
Plan to cover nearly all expenses in cash. For a week-long trip at mid-range comfort level, I recommend bringing $700-1000 in USD (plus emergency funds) if not doing gorilla trekking, or $1500-2000 if including Virunga activities. Bring mostly small denominations ($20s, $10s, $5s, and $1s).
References and Additional Resources
- Virunga National Park Official Website – Essential for booking gorilla trekking and volcano climbs
- US Department of State – DRC Travel Advisory – Current safety information
- UK Foreign Office – DRC Travel Advice – Alternative security perspective
- DRC E-Visa Application Portal – Official visa application site
- CDC DRC Health Information – Updated health recommendations
- MONUSCO – UN Mission updates that indicate regional security
- Official DRC Tourism Website – Government tourism information
- Kivu Travel Agency – Local tour operator with reliable Goma information
- BBC DRC News – Current events and context
- Harvard Congo Research Program – Academic research about Eastern Congo
- Heal Africa – Information about local healthcare and community development
- Yolé! Africa Cultural Center – Cultural events and community arts in Goma