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The Ultimate Lomé (Togo) Travel Cheat Sheet for 2025: A Local’s Guide to West Africa’s Hidden Gem

Planning a trip to Lomé, Togo in 2025? Our local insider's guide covers everything from navigating the city safely to finding the best authentic experiences, money-saving tips, and cultural insights that guidebooks miss.

Introduction: Why Lomé Should Be on Your 2025 Travel Radar

The first time I stepped off the plane at Lomé-Tokoin Airport (LFW) back in 2018, I was immediately hit by the warm, humid air carrying scents of spices, diesel, and sea salt. I remember standing there, slightly overwhelmed, thinking I’d made a terrible mistake coming to Togo’s capital city alone. Fast forward seven visits later, and Lomé has become like a second home to me—a place where I’ve formed deep friendships, learned to navigate the chaotic markets with confidence, and discovered hidden corners that never make it into guidebooks.

Lomé is that rare West African destination that offers authentic cultural experiences without the overwhelming tourist infrastructure of more visited capitals. Nestled along the Gulf of Guinea with its palm-fringed beaches, colorful markets, and vibrant street life, this city of about 1.6 million people provides a perfect entry point to West African culture.

This cheat sheet compiles everything I wish someone had told me before my first visit—from navigating transportation and bargaining at the Grand Marché to understanding local customs and finding the best fufu in town. Whether you’re coming for business, volunteer work, or pure adventure in 2025, consider this your insider’s guide to experiencing Lomé like a local, not a tourist.

Essential Pre-Trip Planning for Lomé

Visa Requirements & Entry Formalities (Updated for 2025)

Most visitors need a visa to enter Togo, which can be obtained either in advance from a Togolese embassy or through the e-Visa system launched in 2023. The e-Visa process has been significantly improved for 2025, with approval times now averaging 48-72 hours (down from the frustrating 5-7 days it took when I first used it in 2021).

Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Passport valid for at least 6 months beyond your planned departure from Togo
  • Proof of yellow fever vaccination (they will check this at immigration)
  • Confirmation of accommodation in Lomé
  • Return/onward ticket (they’ve become stricter about this since 2023)
  • Visa fee of approximately 20,000 CFA (about $35 USD) for single entry

Insider Tip: In my experience, the e-Visa system occasionally goes offline. If you’re planning to travel during a holiday period, apply at least 3 weeks in advance. Also, print multiple copies of your visa approval—I once had to surrender my only copy at the airport and then faced issues at my hotel without it.

Best Time to Visit Lomé in 2025

Lomé has two distinct rainy seasons: April-July and September-November. For the most comfortable experience, plan your visit during:

  • December-February: My personal favorite period. Dry, hot days (28-32°C/82-90°F) with cooler evenings. The harmattan winds bring some dust from the Sahara, but the beaches are at their best.
  • July-August: A brief dry window between rainy seasons with slightly cooler temperatures.

Avoid the peak of rainy seasons unless you enjoy sudden, dramatic downpours that can flood streets and disrupt travel plans. I learned this lesson the hard way when I spent three days trapped in my hotel during an unusually heavy May rainfall in 2019!

Health Precautions & Vaccinations

Beyond the mandatory yellow fever vaccination, I recommend:

  • Updated routine vaccinations (MMR, DPT, etc.)
  • Hepatitis A and B
  • Typhoid
  • Malaria prophylaxis (consult your doctor for the best option)

Since 2023, private healthcare options in Lomé have improved, with Clinique Biasa and Clinique GTA offering the best emergency care for foreigners. However, for serious medical issues, evacuation to Ghana or Europe is still recommended. Travel insurance with evacuation coverage is absolutely essential.

Personal Mistake: On my second trip, I ran out of malaria pills and thought it wouldn’t matter for just a few days. I ended up with a nasty case of malaria that required hospitalization. Always bring more medication than you think you’ll need, as specific brands may not be available locally.

Navigating Lomé Like a Local

Getting from LFW Airport to the City

Lomé-Tokoin Airport (LFW) is conveniently located just 7km from the city center. Your main options include:

  1. Pre-arranged hotel shuttle: Most mid-range and upscale hotels offer this service for 5,000-10,000 CFA ($9-18 USD). Worth it for peace of mind, especially for night arrivals.
  2. Official airport taxis: Available directly outside the terminal, with fixed rates of around 5,000 CFA ($9 USD) to central locations. Look for the yellow taxis with airport registration.
  3. Ride-hailing apps: Yango (the Russian equivalent of Uber) launched in Lomé in 2023 and works reasonably well in 2025, offering lower rates than airport taxis.

Money-Saving Insider Tip: If you’re feeling adventurous and traveling light during daylight hours, walk about 200 meters from the airport exit to Avenue de la Chance, where you can hail a shared taxi (“taxi-ville”) for just 300 CFA (about $0.50 USD) to the city center. I’ve done this several times and saved significantly, though it requires basic French skills and comfort with crowded transport.

Getting Around Lomé

Lomé is relatively compact, and getting around has become easier since the implementation of the new street naming system in 2022. However, locals still navigate primarily by landmarks rather than addresses.

Transportation Options:

Mode Cost Convenience Best For
Taxi-ville (shared taxi) 300-500 CFA per person ($0.50-0.90) Medium Budget travel along main routes
Private taxi 1,500-3,000 CFA ($2.70-5.40) High Direct trips, night travel
Motorcycle taxi (“Zémidjan”) 500-1,500 CFA ($0.90-2.70) High Quick trips, avoiding traffic
Yango (app-based) 2,000-4,000 CFA ($3.60-7.20) Very High Comfort, fixed pricing
Walking Free Medium Short distances in city center

The iconic “Zémidjan” (motorcycle taxis, literally “take me quickly” in Fon language) are everywhere, identifiable by their yellow shirts. While they’re the fastest way to beat Lomé’s increasing traffic, they come with obvious safety concerns. If you do use them:

  • Always negotiate the price before getting on
  • Insist on a helmet (many now carry spare helmets since the 2023 safety regulations)
  • Hold your bag securely between you and the driver
  • For women: sit side-saddle if wearing a skirt (as locals do)

Local Phrase: “Combien pour aller à…” (How much to go to…) followed by your destination is essential when negotiating with any taxi driver. For shared taxis, simply state your destination as a question: “Marché?” and the driver will nod or wave you off.

Neighborhoods Worth Exploring

Lomé’s neighborhoods each have distinct characters:

  • Kodjoviakopé: The beachfront area near the Ghana border, home to many embassies, upscale hotels, and the palm-lined Boulevard du Mono. This is where you’ll find the best restaurants and nightlife.
  • Centre-Ville: The bustling commercial heart around Grand Marché and Rue du Commerce, where you’ll experience the true pulse of Lomé.
  • Dékon: A residential area with good local restaurants and a more authentic vibe. The streets around Eglise St Augustin offer a glimpse into everyday Lomé life.
  • Bè: Home to the famous Akodessewa Fetish Market (the largest voodoo market in West Africa) and Lake Bè. More gritty but fascinating for cultural exploration.
  • Agbalépédogan: The rapidly developing northern district with modern shopping centers and the new administrative zone. Shows the city’s evolution.

Where to Stay in Lomé: Accommodation Guide

Best Areas to Base Yourself

After trying various neighborhoods across my visits, I’ve found these areas offer the best combination of safety, convenience, and atmosphere for visitors:

  • Kodjoviakopé: Best for first-time visitors, beach access, and proximity to restaurants. Most international hotels are here.
  • Centre-Ville: Perfect for experiencing local life and market culture. More budget-friendly options.
  • Tokoin: A good middle ground with some excellent mid-range accommodations and a more residential feel.

Accommodation Recommendations by Budget

Luxury & Business Travelers:

  • Radisson Blu Hotel 2 Février – The iconic landmark tower has been renovated in 2024 and offers the most reliable luxury experience with excellent facilities including the best pool in the city. From 120,000 CFA ($216 USD)/night.
  • Onomo Hotel Lomé – Sleek, modern business hotel with reliable services and good restaurant. From 70,000 CFA ($126 USD)/night.

Mid-Range Options:

  • Hôtel Résidence Paterson – My personal favorite for comfort and value. Spacious rooms, decent Wi-Fi, and a lovely garden setting. From 38,000 CFA ($68 USD)/night.
  • Ibis Lomé Centre – Reliable international standard with central location. From 42,000 CFA ($75 USD)/night.
  • Hôtel Sarakawa – Historic hotel with beach access and large grounds. Rooms are dated but spacious. From 45,000 CFA ($81 USD)/night.

Budget-Friendly:

  • Hôtel Côté Sud – Clean, family-run hotel with decent Wi-Fi and a good restaurant. From 25,000 CFA ($45 USD)/night.
  • Hôtel Ahoefa – Simple but clean rooms in a convenient location. From 18,000 CFA ($32 USD)/night.
  • Auberge du Grand Marché – Basic but authentic stay near the main market. From 15,000 CFA ($27 USD)/night.

Money-Saving Insider Tip: Many hotels quote prices in Euros but will give you a 3-5% discount if you pay in CFA. Always ask! Also, longer stays (5+ nights) can often be negotiated for 10-15% off the nightly rate, especially during low season (May-June and October).

Accommodation Considerations Specific to Lomé

Based on several uncomfortable nights before I learned better:

  • Power backup: Power outages remain common in 2025. Verify your accommodation has a generator.
  • Water pressure: Many hotels experience water pressure issues. Upper floor rooms often have the worst problems.
  • Wi-Fi reality: Even hotels advertising “high-speed Wi-Fi” often have spotty connections. I now carry a local SIM with data as backup.
  • Noise considerations: Lomé is a loud city, with early morning calls to prayer, street vendors, and weekend parties. Request rooms away from the street if you’re a light sleeper.
  • Air conditioning: Essential given Lomé’s humidity. Test it immediately upon check-in.

Experiencing Lomé’s Food Scene

Must-Try Togolese Dishes

Togolese cuisine blends West African staples with unique local flavors. Here are dishes I’ve grown to love and where to find them:

  • Fufu with Light Soup – This pounded cassava or yam paste served with spicy, protein-rich soup is Togo’s national dish. Best tried at Maquis du Plateau near the Grand Marché.
  • Akpan – Fermented corn yogurt drink served with sugar and milk. Refreshing on hot days. Street vendors around Boulevard du 13 Janvier sell the most authentic version.
  • Gboma Dessi – Spinach stew with crab or fish and spices, usually eaten with rice or ablo (fermented corn dough). Restaurant Le Galion in Kodjoviakopé makes an excellent version.
  • Agouti – Grilled bush rat (a delicacy!). Try it if you’re adventurous at the outdoor grills near the beach at Kodjoviakopé in the evenings.
  • Koklo Mémé – Grilled chicken with spicy peanut powder. The small place called Chez Mémé near Hôtel Ibis serves the tastiest version.

Sensory Detail: The first time I tried proper Togolese fufu, I was startled by its stretchy, gluey texture. The trick, I learned from watching locals, is to take a small piece, make an indentation with your thumb, and use it to scoop up the soup. Now the chewy texture and subtle sour notes are something I crave regularly!

Where to Eat in Lomé

Local Experiences:

  • Marché de Nuit d’Adawlato – Night food market with rows of women cooking fresh fish, chicken, and local dishes. I eat here at least twice during every visit. Meals from 1,500-3,000 CFA ($2.70-5.40).
  • Roadside “Maquis” – Small open-air restaurants serving grilled fish, chicken, and local staples. Try the strip along Boulevard du Mono for good options. Meals from 2,000-4,000 CFA ($3.60-7.20).
  • Le Petit Marché – Not actually a market but a local restaurant serving excellent Togolese classics in a simple setting. Meals around 3,000 CFA ($5.40).

Mid-Range & International Options:

  • Bellevue – Rooftop restaurant with good Lebanese-influenced menu and views over the city. Meals 7,000-12,000 CFA ($12.60-21.60).
  • La Galleria – Reliable Italian food in an elegant setting. Good pizzas and pasta. Meals 6,000-10,000 CFA ($10.80-18.00).
  • Che Nomenm Bistro – Contemporary Togolese cuisine in a stylish setting, showcasing local ingredients in innovative ways. My favorite special occasion spot. Meals 8,000-15,000 CFA ($14.40-27.00).

Coffee & Light Bites:

  • Café Pomme Cannelle – French bakery with excellent pastries and decent coffee. Good breakfast spot. From 2,500 CFA ($4.50) for coffee and pastry.
  • Noek Café – Modern café serving local coffee beans and light meals. Great workspace with reliable Wi-Fi. From 1,800 CFA ($3.25) for coffee.

Food Safety & Money-Saving Tips

After one memorable bout of food poisoning during my second visit, I’ve developed some practical guidelines:

  1. Street food is often fresher than restaurant food, as turnover is higher. Look for busy stalls with locals lined up.
  2. For street food, watch for stalls where one person handles money and another handles food.
  3. If eating fish, check the eyes (should be clear) and gills (should be red) before ordering.
  4. Stick to bottled water and check that the seal is intact before accepting it.
  5. Fruits you can peel yourself (bananas, oranges, pineapple) are safe options.

Money-Saving Insider Tip: The best value meals in Lomé are found at “maquis” between 12-2pm when they serve a “plat du jour” (daily special) with a complete meal for just 2,500-3,500 CFA ($4.50-6.30). These typically include a protein, starches, and vegetables in generous portions. My favorite is Maquis Le Togolais near the university, where Thursday’s grilled fish with attieké (cassava couscous) could feed two people!

Cultural Essentials & Etiquette in Lomé

Language Navigation

French is Togo’s official language, and while many educated Lomé residents speak some English, you’ll have a much richer experience with basic French phrases. Most locals also speak Ewe or Mina as their first language.

Essential phrases beyond the basic French greetings:

  • “Akpe” (Ah-kpay) – “Thank you” in Ewe, always appreciated when used
  • “Yoo” (Yoh) – “OK” or “I understand” in Mina
  • “C’est combien?” – “How much is it?”
  • “C’est trop cher” – “That’s too expensive” (essential for bargaining)
  • “On peut diminuer un peu?” – “Can you reduce it a little?”

Personal Anecdote: During my third visit, I made a point to learn ten phrases in Mina. The simple effort transformed how people responded to me—from being treated as just another foreigner to receiving warm smiles, better prices, and invitations into homes. When I greeted a fabric seller at the Grand Marché with “Efon na wo?” (How are you?), she literally hugged me with delight before giving me a significant discount.

Social Etiquette & Cultural Sensitivity

Some important cultural considerations I’ve learned (sometimes the hard way):

  1. Greetings matter enormously. Always begin interactions with “Bonjour” or “Bonsoir” and handshakes. Rushing straight to your question or request is considered rude.
  2. Eat right-handed. The left hand is traditionally considered unclean in West Africa.
  3. Ask before photographing people. This is not just polite but sometimes viewed as spiritually significant. Some may request a small payment.
  4. Dress modestly. Despite the heat, locals rarely wear revealing clothing. Shorts are fine for men in tourist areas, but women should keep shoulders covered and skirts/shorts at knee length or longer, especially when visiting markets or residential areas.
  5. Remove shoes when invited into someone’s home.

Religious & Cultural Practices

Lomé’s religious landscape is diverse, with Christianity, Islam, and traditional Vodun (Voodoo) practices often blending together. Some cultural insights:

  • Don’t be surprised to see Christian churches next to Vodun shrines—many Togolese practice both simultaneously
  • If invited to a traditional ceremony, bring a small gift (schnapps is traditionally appropriate)
  • Friday afternoons see increased activity around mosques
  • Many businesses close on Sunday mornings for church
  • Traditional chiefs still hold significant influence in many communities

Unexpected Detail: One of my most memorable experiences was witnessing an Egungun masquerade performance near the Bè Lagoon. These masked dancers are believed to embody ancestral spirits, and when they appear, women and children typically run away (as spirits can be dangerous). Not understanding this tradition, I stood my ground while photographing—causing considerable concern until a local friend pulled me away, explaining that my behavior was seen as both dangerous and disrespectful.

Top Experiences in Lomé

Must-Visit Sites & Activities

Cultural & Historic Sites:

  • Grand Marché & Marché des Féticheurs d’Akodessewa – Lomé’s central market is a sensory overload of fabrics, food, and daily life, while the fetish market offers a fascinating glimpse into traditional spiritual practices. Allow at least 2-3 hours for both. The fetish market typically expects a “guide fee” of 5,000-7,000 CFA ($9-12.60).
  • Independence Monument (Monument de l’Indépendance) – Impressive modernist structure commemorating Togo’s 1960 independence.
  • Lomé Cathedral – German-built colonial-era cathedral with distinctive red and white stripes.
  • Village Artisanal – Craft village where you can watch artisans create and purchase quality souvenirs directly from makers.

Natural & Outdoor Experiences:

  • Beaches: Lomé’s beaches along Boulevard du Mono are pleasant for walking but often not ideal for swimming due to strong currents. For swimming, head to Coco Beach about 7km east of the city center, where there are beach clubs with better facilities.
  • Lac Togo: Take a day trip to Lake Togo (about 45 minutes from Lomé) for boat rides and views of traditional fishing villages.
  • Foret de Bè: Small forest reserve within the city with walking trails and birdwatching opportunities.

Contemporary Lomé:

  • Palais de Lomé – Former colonial governor’s palace beautifully restored and reopened in 2019 as a contemporary arts center with gardens. One of my favorite places to escape the city’s hustle. Entry 2,000 CFA ($3.60).
  • Port Autonome de Lomé – Watch massive container ships at West Africa’s deepest port from the public viewing area.
  • Institut Français du Togo – Cultural center with regular art exhibitions, film screenings, and performances.

Unique Lomé Experiences

Some of my most memorable moments have come from these less obvious activities:

  • Early Morning Fish Market – Head to the beach at Katanga neighborhood around 6am to watch fishing boats return and the lively auction that follows.
  • Sunday Church Choir – Attending a Sunday service at Lomé Cathedral or any Evangelical church for the incredible musical experience, even if you’re not religious.
  • Nana Benz Textile Shops – Visit the shops around Grand Marché run by the famous “Nana Benz” women (named for the Mercedes-Benz cars they could afford from their successful businesses). These powerful businesswomen control much of West Africa’s textile trade.
  • Nightlife at Pure Plage – Beach club with weekend parties featuring local DJs and a mix of tourists and affluent locals.
  • Football Match at Stade de Kégué – If the national team or local clubs are playing, the atmosphere is electric.

Sustainability Tip: Instead of buying bottled water constantly, I now bring a good quality water filter bottle (like LifeStraw) and refill from hotel taps. This has saved me around 30,000 CFA ($54) on each two-week trip while preventing dozens of plastic bottles from ending up in Lomé’s already challenged waste system. The city has a serious plastic pollution problem, particularly evident on the beaches.

Shopping & Souvenirs from Lomé

Best Places to Shop

  • Grand Marché – The central market is maze-like but offers the best prices on fabrics, clothing, and everyday items. Tuesday and Thursday mornings are less crowded.
  • Marché de Hedzranawoé – Huge fabric market with better organization than Grand Marché. Best for wax prints and traditional textiles.
  • Village Artisanal – Government-supported craft village with fixed prices (no bargaining) but authentic, quality crafts.
  • Assigamé Market – For electronics, household goods, and secondhand items. Known for better prices than other markets.
  • Boulevard du Mono shops – Air-conditioned boutiques selling designer goods, quality souvenirs, and international products at higher prices.

What to Buy

Authentic souvenirs that represent Togolese craftsmanship:

  • Wax Print Fabrics – Vibrant patterned fabrics used for clothing and home décor. Look for “Vlisco” or “Woodin” brands for higher quality. From 5,000 CFA ($9) per 6-yard piece for basic prints to 50,000 CFA ($90) for high-end Vlisco.
  • Recycled Glass Beads – Traditional glass beads made from recycled bottles, often in beautiful patterns. From 2,000 CFA ($3.60) for a simple strand.
  • Carved Wooden Masks and Sculptures – Represents various spirits and deities from Togolese traditions. From 5,000 CFA ($9) for small pieces.
  • Basket Weaving – Practical and decorative baskets made from palm fronds. From 2,500 CFA ($4.50).
  • Local Music – CDs of Togolese artists like King Mensah or Bella Bellow make unique souvenirs. Around 2,000-3,000 CFA ($3.60-5.40).

Shopping Mistake: On my first trip, I bought what I thought was an authentic ceremonial mask from a beach vendor, only to later discover it was mass-produced for tourists. Now I know that genuine traditional pieces are rarely sold on beaches or streets—authentic ceremonial items should be purchased from established craft markets or directly from artisans, and often cost significantly more than tourist versions.

Bargaining Etiquette & Tips

Bargaining is expected in markets but should be done respectfully. My approach after many market visits:

  1. Start by greeting the vendor properly and making small talk
  2. Ask the price and don’t show too much excitement about items
  3. Counter with 40-50% of the initial price for market goods
  4. Expect to settle around 60-70% of the original asking price
  5. Be prepared to walk away (often you’ll be called back with a better offer)
  6. Once you agree on a price, honor it—backing out is considered rude

Money-Saving Insider Tip: For fabrics and crafts, prices drop significantly if you buy multiple items. When buying wax print fabric, I’ve saved up to 30% by purchasing 3-4 patterns from the same vendor instead of individual pieces from different sellers. Also, shopping near closing time (around 4-5pm) often yields better prices as vendors are eager to make final sales.

Safety & Practical Tips for Lomé

General Safety Considerations

Lomé is relatively safe compared to many West African capitals, but sensible precautions are necessary:

  • Avoid displaying valuables – Phones, cameras, and jewelry should be kept discreet, especially in crowded areas
  • Be cautious at night – Stick to well-lit, populated areas after dark and use registered taxis rather than walking
  • Watch for motorcycle theft – A common crime is thieves on motorcycles snatching phones or bags from pedestrians
  • Keep copies of documents – Store digital and physical copies of your passport, visa, and insurance separately from originals
  • Use hotel safes for valuables and excess cash

Personal Experience: During my second visit, I made the mistake of checking my phone’s map while standing on a street corner. Within seconds, a motorcycle zoomed by and the passenger attempted to grab it. Luckily, I had a firm grip, but it taught me to check directions in shops or restaurants, never openly on the street.

Money Matters

Togo uses the West African CFA franc (XOF), shared with seven other West African countries. Important financial tips:

  • Cash is king – While major hotels and upscale restaurants accept credit cards, most transactions are cash-only
  • ATMs are available but not always reliable. Ecobank and Orabank generally have the most functional machines. Withdrawal limits are typically 200,000-400,000 CFA ($360-720) per transaction
  • Currency exchange is best done at banks or official bureaux de change. Avoid street money changers despite better rates
  • Euros are widely accepted for exchange, with US dollars a close second. Other currencies may be difficult to change
  • Small denominations are essential—breaking 10,000 CFA notes can be challenging in markets and with taxi drivers

Communication & Connectivity

Staying connected has become much easier since my first visit:

  • Local SIM cards are inexpensive and provide good data coverage in Lomé. Togocom and Moov are the main providers. A SIM card costs about 1,000 CFA ($1.80) and 10GB of data about 5,000 CFA ($9). Bring your passport for registration.
  • Wi-Fi quality varies significantly. Even places advertising “high-speed” often have intermittent service. The most reliable Wi-Fi is at upscale hotels and newer cafés like Café des Pins and Noek Café.
  • Power banks are essential as power outages occur regularly.
  • WhatsApp is the preferred communication method for most locals and businesses.

Insider Tip: Since 2023, the government has implemented a “tourist corridor” of free public Wi-Fi hotspots along Boulevard du Mono and near major hotels. Look for the “Togo_Free_WiFi” network, which provides 30 minutes of free access before requiring registration for continued use.

Health & Emergency Information

Being prepared for health issues is crucial:

  • Recommended clinics: Clinique Biasa (+228 22 21 11 37) and Polyclinique St Joseph (+228 22 21 89 93) offer the best care for foreigners
  • Pharmacies: Grande Pharmacie du Grand Marché and Pharmacie du Zénith are well-stocked and often have staff who speak some English
  • Emergency numbers: 117 (Police), 118 (Fire), 8200 (Medical Emergency)
  • Common health issues: Dehydration, foodborne illness, and mosquito-borne diseases are the most common problems visitors face

Essential items for your personal medical kit:

  • Oral rehydration salts
  • Anti-diarrheal medication
  • Pain relievers/fever reducers
  • Antihistamines
  • Bandages and antiseptic
  • Insect repellent (with DEET)
  • Antimalarial medications

Day Trips from Lomé

Nearby Destinations Worth Exploring

One of Lomé’s advantages is its proximity to several interesting destinations, all accessible as day trips:

1. Agbodrafo and Lake Togo (30-45 minutes east)

This colonial-era town (formerly Porto Seguro) offers a glimpse into Togo’s slave trade history and access to Lake Togo’s peaceful shores.

  • Don’t miss: Woold House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves), a preserved slave house with underground chambers where captives were held before transport.
  • How to get there: Shared taxis from Lomé’s eastern taxi station (3,000 CFA/$5.40 round trip) or hire a private taxi for the day (25,000-30,000 CFA/$45-54).
  • Tip: Have lunch at Chez Armand by the lake, where you can eat fresh fish while looking over the water.

2. Togoville (1 hour east)

This historic town across Lake Togo is considered the spiritual heart of the country, where the German colonial treaty was signed giving the country its name.

  • Don’t miss: The cathedral, traditional voodoo shrines, and colonial-era buildings.
  • How to get there: Take a taxi to Agbodrafo, then a pirogue (wooden boat) across the lake (about 5,000 CFA/$9 for the boat crossing).
  • Tip: Hiring a local guide (3,000-5,000 CFA/$5.40-9) is worthwhile as many historical sites aren’t marked.

3. Aného (45 minutes east)

Togo’s former colonial capital has beautiful decaying architecture and important historical sites.

  • Don’t miss: The colonial governor’s building, German cemetery, and the beach where the Atlantic meets the Mono River.
  • How to get there: Shared taxis from Lomé’s eastern taxi station (4,000 CFA/$7.20 round trip).
  • Tip: Visit on a Saturday when the weekly market brings the town to life.

4. Kpalimé (2 hours north)

This mountain town surrounded by coffee and cocoa plantations offers cooler temperatures and beautiful natural scenery.

  • Don’t miss: Mount Agou (Togo’s highest peak), Kpime Waterfall, and the artisan center.
  • How to get there: Shared taxis or minibusses from the northern station (7,000 CFA/$12.60 round trip). For more flexibility, hire a driver for the day (45,000-60,000 CFA/$81-108).
  • Tip: If you have time, stay overnight at Hôtel La Paix to fully appreciate the mountain atmosphere and cooler evenings.

5. Ghana Border Experience (20 minutes west)

For a unique cross-border experience, visit the Ghana-Togo border at Aflao, where you can literally stand with one foot in each country.

  • Don’t miss: The bustling border market and the stark contrast between countries just meters apart.
  • How to get there: Shared taxi to Aflao border (1,000 CFA/$1.80 each way).
  • Tip: You can get your passport stamped and cross into Ghana for a few hours if you have the appropriate visa.

Personal Experience: During my fourth visit, I hired a motorcycle guide to take me to some of the vodun sacred forests between Lomé and Aného. For 20,000 CFA ($36) for the day, he showed me places I would never have found on my own—including a small forest shrine where local fishermen make offerings for safe voyages. These unscripted moments away from tourist sites have given me my deepest understanding of Togolese culture.

Conclusion: Making the Most of Your Lomé Experience

5-Step Action Plan for an Authentic Lomé Visit

  1. Prepare culturally, not just logistically: Learn 5-10 basic French phrases and at least two greetings in Mina or Ewe. Download offline Google Maps of Lomé before arrival. Exchange some money to CFA before arriving if possible.
  2. Establish a local connection: On your first day, find a reliable taxi driver and get their WhatsApp contact or consider using a local guide for at least one day to gain deeper insights. The staff at your accommodation can often recommend someone trustworthy.
  3. Balance your itinerary: For each major tourist site you visit, add one local experience—a neighborhood market, a local restaurant without an English menu, or a Sunday church service.
  4. Practice cultural immersion daily: Try one new local food each day. Spend time sitting at beach cafés or street-side bars where locals gather. Accept invitations when they feel safe and appropriate.
  5. Give back meaningfully: Rather than giving money to child beggars (which perpetuates the cycle), purchase crafts directly from artisans, overtip service workers who’ve been helpful, or bring needed supplies for community organizations. SOS Children’s Villages Togo accepts visitor donations of school supplies.

Final Thoughts

Lomé isn’t a polished tourist destination, and that’s precisely its charm. It’s a city of contrasts—colonial architecture alongside traditional markets, luxury SUVs navigating roads shared with laden cargo bikes, international business executives dining a few doors down from local street food vendors.

What keeps me returning to Lomé is not just its sights but its spirit—the resilience and warmth of its people, the vibrant street life, and the way traditions are not preserved for tourists but lived authentically every day. Even with its challenges and occasional frustrations, Lomé rewards those willing to embrace its rhythm rather than fight it.

As Togolese say, “Doucement, doucement, l’oiseau fait son nid” (Slowly, slowly, the bird builds its nest). Give yourself time to appreciate Lomé slowly, beyond superficial impressions, and you’ll discover why those who know West Africa consider it one of the region’s most livable and fascinating cities.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Lomé safe for solo travelers?

Lomé is relatively safe for solo travelers compared to many West African capitals, but common-sense precautions are essential. As a solo traveler on multiple visits, I’ve found that avoiding night walking, keeping valuables concealed, and staying in well-populated areas minimizes risks significantly. Solo female travelers should be prepared for more attention and occasional harassment, but firm responses usually suffice. The biggest threats are typically petty theft and scams rather than violent crime.

What’s the best time of year to visit Lomé?

December through February offers the most pleasant weather—dry conditions with temperatures between 23-32°C (73-90°F). This period avoids both rainy seasons and provides clear skies for beach activities. However, this is also when accommodation prices peak. For budget travelers, the July-August mini dry season offers a good compromise between decent weather and lower prices.

How much money should I budget per day in Lomé?

Based on my various visits with different budgets:

  • Budget traveler: 30,000-45,000 CFA ($54-81) per day, including basic accommodation, street food/local restaurants, public transportation, and modest activities
  • Mid-range: 60,000-90,000 CFA ($108-162) per day, covering better hotels, nice restaurants, occasional taxis, and paid attractions
  • Luxury: 120,000+ CFA ($216+) for top hotels, upscale dining, private transportation, and specialized guides

Do I need a visa in advance, or can I get one on arrival?

Most visitors require a visa, and getting one in advance is strongly recommended. While technically an “arrival visa” exists, it’s inconsistently implemented and can involve long waits or even denied entry. The e-Visa system implemented in 2023 has made advance application much easier. Citizens of ECOWAS countries (Economic Community of West African States) don’t need visas for entry.

Is it safe to eat street food in Lomé?

Street food can be safe if you follow some guidelines: choose busy stalls with high turnover, watch for proper food handling, eat freshly cooked hot foods, and avoid raw vegetables unless you peel them yourself. My personal rule after one bad experience: if locals are lining up at a particular food stall, it’s usually both delicious and safe. Some of my best meals in Lomé have been from street vendors, particularly the grilled fish near the beach at sunset.

What’s the electricity situation? Will my devices work?

Togo uses 220V with European-style round two-pin plugs (Type C and E). Power outages occur frequently, though major hotels have generators. I recommend bringing a universal adapter, portable power bank, and surge protector for sensitive electronics. If you’re coming from a country using 110V (like the US), check that your devices are dual voltage (most modern electronics and chargers are).

Is English widely spoken in Lomé?

French is the official language, and English proficiency is limited. In tourist areas, upscale hotels, and some restaurants, you’ll find English speakers, but outside these zones, French is essential. I’ve found that even basic French phrases open many doors. Younger, educated Togolese are more likely to have some English ability, especially those working in international businesses or tourism.

What should I wear in Lomé?

Dress modestly despite the heat. For women, shoulders should be covered and skirts/shorts at knee length or longer, especially when visiting markets, residential areas, or religious sites. Men have more flexibility but should avoid very short shorts outside beach areas. Togolese people take pride in their appearance and often dress formally despite the heat—you’ll see men in pressed shirts and women in beautiful traditional outfits even for everyday activities.

References

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