Introduction: My Journey Into The Hermit Kingdom
I’ll never forget my first glimpse of Pyongyang from the Air Koryo plane window in 2018. The capital sprawled below, a curious blend of monumental architecture and wide, eerily empty boulevards. The strange mix of anticipation and apprehension I felt then has evolved over my four visits to North Korea, each trip peeling back another layer of this enigmatic country. While mainstream media paints one picture, the reality of traveling in the DPRK is far more nuanced, regulated, and fascinating than most imagine.
This guide distills everything I’ve learned—sometimes the hard way—about navigating North Korea as a foreign visitor in 2025. From the strictly choreographed tours to those rare, genuine moments of connection with locals, I’m sharing the practical information and cultural insights I wish I’d had before my first visit.
Note: North Korea remains one of the world’s most politically sensitive destinations. This guide focuses on practical travel information rather than political commentary. Always check your home country’s current travel advisories before planning a trip.
Preparing for North Korea: The Essential Pre-Trip Checklist
Visiting North Korea requires more preparation than your average destination. There’s no such thing as independent travel here—every foreigner must be on an approved tour with official guides. Here’s what you need to know before you go:
Understanding the Visa Process in 2025
North Korea doesn’t issue traditional visas stamped in your passport. Instead, you’ll receive a visa on a separate paper that’s collected when you leave. The process works like this:
- Book a tour through an authorized tour operator (I recommend Koryo Tours or Young Pioneer Tours)
- Submit application materials (usually 6-8 weeks before travel)
- Receive visa approval number
- Collect actual visa in Beijing or Dandong, China (typically the day before departure)
A crucial 2025 update: Following post-pandemic reopening, the visa application now requires proof of COVID-19 vaccination and a negative PCR test taken within 72 hours of arrival. The application fee remains at approximately €50, payable through your tour operator.
Tour Options and Costs
Every visitor must be on a pre-approved, guided tour. These range from quick 3-day Pyongyang introductions to comprehensive 10-day journeys that include more remote regions like Wonsan, Hamhung, and even Mount Paektu. Here’s what to expect cost-wise in 2025:
| Tour Type | Duration | Approximate Cost | What’s Included |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget Pyongyang Weekend | 3-4 days | €900-1,200 | Basic hotels, transport, meals, guides |
| Standard DPRK Experience | 5-7 days | €1,500-1,900 | Yanggakdo Hotel, all meals, entry fees |
| Comprehensive Tour | 8-10 days | €2,200-2,800 | Multiple cities, premium accommodations |
| Special Interest (Marathon, National Day) | Varies | €1,800-3,000 | Event entry, special access |
Insider Tip #1: Book tours coinciding with national holidays like the Day of the Sun (April 15) or Party Foundation Day (October 10) for a chance to witness mass dances and military parades, though prices increase 15-20% during these periods.
What You Can (and Can’t) Bring
North Korea has strict regulations about what visitors can bring. Prohibited items include:
- Religious materials of any kind
- Books or publications about North Korea or South Korea
- GPS devices and satellite phones
- Drones
- American flags or South Korean items
In 2025, cell phones are no longer confiscated at the border, but there’s no connectivity for foreign devices. Cameras are allowed, but expect scrutiny of your photos when leaving. My second trip taught me this lesson the hard way when I had to delete several photos of construction sites and military personnel.
Getting There: Transportation to North Korea
Flying to Pyongyang
Most travelers fly to Pyongyang via Beijing on Air Koryo, North Korea’s national airline. Despite its reputation as the world’s only “one-star airline,” I’ve found their flights surprisingly decent. In 2025, they operate twice-weekly services (usually Tuesdays and Saturdays) from Beijing to Pyongyang on relatively modern Tupolev and Antonov aircraft.
The famous Air Koryo burger—a peculiar mix of mystery meat, cabbage and a sweet sauce—remains a quintessential part of the journey. Flight time is approximately 90 minutes, and a round-trip ticket costs around €500.
The Train Option
For the more adventurous, taking the 24-hour train from Beijing to Pyongyang via Dandong offers a fascinating glimpse into rural North Korea. The international train departs Beijing around 5:30pm, arriving in Dandong (the Chinese border city) the following morning, where you’ll have an extended customs check before crossing the Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge into Sinuiju.
In 2025, this option costs approximately €350 round-trip for a soft sleeper. The border crossing process has become slightly more efficient but still includes a thorough bag search and electronics inspection.
Insider Tip #2: Bring plenty of Chinese yuan or Euros (not USD) in cash, as there are no ATMs or credit card facilities for foreigners anywhere in North Korea. I typically bring €100 per day to cover souvenirs, drinks, and optional activities.
Daily Life on a North Korean Tour
The Guide Relationship
Your guides aren’t just escorts; they’re your constant companions, minders, translators, and the gatekeepers to your North Korean experience. You’ll typically have two guides plus a driver, and building rapport with them is essential. On my third visit, after sharing many meals and conversations with Mr. Kim, my guide, he finally felt comfortable enough to answer some of my more nuanced questions about daily life.
A few Korean phrases go a long way in building this relationship:
- Annyong-haseyo (안녕하세요) – Hello
- Kamsahamnida (감사합니다) – Thank you
- Chuchun ul putak hamnida (추천을 부탁합니다) – Please recommend something
Accommodation Reality
Most tourists stay at the 47-story Yanggakdo Hotel in Pyongyang, situated on an island in the Taedong River—effectively isolating visitors from unplanned interactions with locals. The hotel features a revolving restaurant, bowling alley, casino, and various shops.
In 2025, the newer Ryugyong Hotel has partially opened select floors to foreign tourists, though at a premium price point. Outside Pyongyang, accommodations become significantly more basic, with intermittent hot water and electricity not uncommon in places like Wonsan or Hamhung.
The infamous “fifth floor” at the Yanggakdo Hotel remains off-limits to tourists. Don’t attempt to visit it—this resulted in a tense situation during my second visit when a tour member tried to explore it.
The Choreographed Itinerary
Every moment of your North Korean journey is meticulously planned. A typical day includes:
- 7:00-8:00 AM: Breakfast at your hotel
- 8:30 AM: Meet guides in the lobby
- 9:00 AM-12:00 PM: Morning activities (monuments, museums)
- 12:30-2:00 PM: Lunch at a designated restaurant
- 2:30-5:30 PM: Afternoon activities (factories, schools, parks)
- 6:00-7:30 PM: Dinner
- 8:00-10:00 PM: Evening activity or return to hotel
Deviating from this schedule is not permitted. You cannot leave the hotel alone or wander off during site visits. Bathroom breaks must be requested, and the group stays together at all times.
Insider Tip #3: Save €50-100 by skipping the overpriced official souvenir shops and asking your guide to visit the Kwangbok Department Store, where locals shop. You’ll need to exchange foreign currency for local won (at the official rate), but prices are 30-40% lower for similar goods.
Must-See Sites in North Korea (Beyond the Standard Itinerary)
While the Kim Il Sung Square, Juche Tower, and DMZ are on every itinerary, here are some less-documented experiences worth requesting:
The Pyongyang Metro
Most tours visit just two showcase stations (Puhung and Yonggwang), but in 2025 it’s possible to ride the entire line if arranged in advance. The metro doubles as a nuclear bunker, with stations buried over 100 meters deep. The ornate chandeliers, socialist realist mosaics, and marbled platforms make this the world’s most elaborate subway system.
The scent of garlic and kimchi fills the carriages as locals squeeze in during rush hour, offering a rare glimpse of ordinary Pyongyang life. A full metro tour costs an additional €30 per person but provides invaluable people-watching.
Mount Myohyang
This mountain region three hours from Pyongyang offers North Korea’s most breathtaking natural scenery. The Pohyon Buddhist Temple, dating from 1042, provides a rare glimpse into pre-revolutionary Korean culture. Nearby, the International Friendship Exhibition houses over 300,000 gifts given to the Kim leaders from world dignitaries in a bizarre mountain bunker complex.
In 2025, newly opened hiking trails allow for 2-3 hour guided walks through the forested mountains—a welcome respite from the intensity of Pyongyang.
The Rason Special Economic Zone
This remote northeastern region bordering Russia and China operates under different rules than the rest of North Korea. In Rason, you can visit the country’s only official market where tourists can shop alongside locals, exchange money at near-black market rates, and even access experimental semi-public WiFi in designated hotels.
Getting to Rason requires special permits and typically means entering from China via the Tumen border crossing rather than from Pyongyang, making it ideal as part of a longer Northeast Asia itinerary.
Food and Dining: The Real North Korean Cuisine
North Korean food isn’t just about the famous cold noodles (naengmyeon). The culinary landscape offers fascinating insights into a country where food security remains challenging.
Beyond Tourist Restaurants
Standard tours feature large banquet-style meals with numerous small dishes. While impressive, these don’t reflect everyday North Korean cuisine. When possible, request these more authentic experiences:
- Pyongyang’s Duck BBQ Restaurant on Chollima Street – One of the few genuinely good restaurants where locals with means also dine
- Kwangbok Department Store Food Court – Serving simple dishes like kimbap and tofu soup to ordinary Pyongyang residents
- Roadside Rest Stops – When traveling between cities, these basic facilities offer simple but authentic meals
Drinking Culture
Sharing drinks is one of the few ways to break down barriers with your guides. North Korean liquor includes:
- Soju – The clear rice-based spirit (typically 25% alcohol)
- Taedonggang Beer – The surprisingly good local lager
- Snake Wine – Medicinal rice wine with actual serpents inside
My most memorable North Korean moment came after sharing several soju shots with Mr. Park, my guide in Wonsan. As the alcohol loosened the formal atmosphere, he shyly asked me about ordinary life in Europe—not politics, just daily routines, shopping, and family life. These rare moments of genuine curiosity are precious.
Cultural Etiquette: Critical Do’s and Don’ts
Nowhere are cultural sensitivities more important than in North Korea. Missteps can create serious problems not just for you but for your guides, who bear responsibility for your behavior.
Respecting the Leadership
The most important rule in North Korea concerns the treatment of the leadership figures. You must:
- Never fold, damage or discard newspapers containing images of the leaders
- Refer to Kim Il Sung, Kim Jong Il, and Kim Jong Un with their full titles
- Stand properly (not casually) when visiting monuments to the leaders
- Follow guides’ instructions for taking photos of statues (capturing them in their entirety)
During my first visit, I almost caused a serious incident by folding a newspaper with Kim Jong Un’s image on the front page to read an article inside. My guide quickly stopped me and explained the protocol.
Photography Rules
The rules around photography have relaxed slightly in 2025, but remain strict:
- Always ask guides before taking photos
- Never photograph military personnel or checkpoints
- No photos of construction sites or infrastructure
- No close-up photos of locals without permission
- When photographing leader statues, capture the entire figure (not partial shots)
Your camera and phone will be checked when leaving the country. Photos deemed inappropriate will be deleted, and in serious cases, memory cards or devices may be confiscated.
Conversation Topics to Avoid
While guides have become somewhat more open to questions in 2025, certain topics remain off-limits:
- Criticism of the leadership or political system
- Questions about nuclear weapons programs
- Detailed questions about the military
- South Korean culture, K-pop, or Korean dramas
- Asking about political prison camps
Safe Conversation Topics
- Family life and children
- Education and career paths
- Sports (football is particularly popular)
- Food and local cuisine
- Traditional Korean culture and history
Money Matters and Sustainability in North Korea
Currency and Spending
North Korea operates on a closed currency system. The local won is not officially available to foreigners, though this has loosened slightly in specific contexts:
- Euros are the preferred currency (€50 and €100 notes get better rates)
- Chinese yuan are accepted everywhere
- US dollars are technically accepted but often at poor rates
- Credit cards and ATMs don’t exist for tourist use
In 2025, visitors can exchange foreign currency for local won at the Kwangbok Department Store to shop alongside locals, providing a unique glimpse into ordinary commerce.
Insider Saving Tip: Pre-purchase essentials like snacks, toiletries, and gifts in China before entering North Korea. In-country prices for imported goods can be 3-4 times higher.
Sustainable Travel Practices
Sustainability might seem like a strange concept in North Korea, but responsible tourism matters here just as anywhere:
- Bring reusable water bottles – The tap water isn’t safe, but most hotels provide boiled water that you can cool in your room
- Pack out difficult-to-recycle items like batteries or medicine packaging
- Bring practical gifts for guides rather than disposable items – quality pens, notebooks, or small tools are appreciated
- Request local, seasonal food when possible to reduce imported ingredients
These practices not only reduce your environmental impact but also save money. A quality reusable water bottle saves about €5-7 daily on bottled water purchases.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
My four visits to North Korea have taught me valuable lessons—often through mistakes I hope you can avoid:
Mistake #1: Treating North Korea as a Political Zoo
My first visit was colored by a desire to “catch” evidence of propaganda or control. This attitude was not only disrespectful but prevented genuine interactions. Remember that despite the political system, ordinary North Koreans are people with families, hopes, and daily lives—not exhibits in a museum of communism.
Solution: Approach with genuine curiosity about the culture, focus on human connections, and leave preconceptions at the border.
Mistake #2: Not Preparing for Physical Constraints
During my second trip, I struggled with the physical limitations of North Korean tourism: long days on buses with no stops except those scheduled, limited bathroom access, and accommodation with unreliable hot water and heating.
Solution: Pack accordingly with medications, toilet paper, wet wipes, layered clothing, and portable chargers. Mentally prepare for physical discomfort and limited privacy.
Mistake #3: Asking Political Questions Through Translators
In Wonsan, I asked a factory worker about economic changes through my guide’s translation. This put both the worker and guide in an impossible position, as the guide couldn’t translate anything politically sensitive.
Solution: Save complex or potentially sensitive questions for private moments with guides, not when they’re translating for others.
Mistake #4: Not Bringing Enough Cash
On my third visit, I underestimated expenses and ran short of cash, missing out on souvenirs and optional activities.
Solution: Bring at least €100 per day plus an emergency reserve. There’s no way to access additional funds once inside the country.
Seasonal Considerations and Unique Events
When to Visit North Korea
Each season offers different advantages:
| Season | Weather | Advantages | Challenges |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring (April-May) | 10-20°C, occasional rain | Cherry blossoms, May Day celebrations | Higher prices during April holidays |
| Summer (June-August) | 25-30°C, humid with monsoon rains | Lush countryside, Mass Games performances | Flooding can affect travel plans |
| Autumn (September-October) | 15-25°C, dry and pleasant | National Day celebrations, fall colors | Limited availability during October holidays |
| Winter (November-March) | -10 to 5°C, dry and very cold | Snow-covered monuments, fewer tourists | Limited heating in some locations |
Special Events Worth Planning Around
Certain events make a North Korean visit particularly memorable:
Pyongyang Marathon (April)
The annual Mangyongdae Prize International Marathon allows foreign amateur runners to participate in 10K, half, or full marathon distances through Pyongyang’s streets. It’s the only time you’ll experience the city without guides at your side every moment, though the course is heavily monitored. Registration costs approximately €100 on top of tour costs.
Mass Games (Usually August-September)
This spectacular performance involves over 100,000 participants in synchronized gymnastics, dance, and human mosaic displays. The 2025 performance, titled “Glorious Country,” features new technological elements including drone formations. Tickets range from €100-300 depending on seating.
National Day (September 9)
The founding day of the DPRK features military parades, mass dances in main squares, and special performances. The energy in Pyongyang during this period is unlike any other time, with locals dressed in their finest clothes participating in organized celebrations.
Your 5-Step Action Plan for a Successful North Korea Trip
After four visits to this complex country, I’ve distilled the preparation process into these essential steps:
- Research and Select a Reputable Tour Company
Compare at least three operators, read reviews, and choose based on itinerary flexibility and guide quality rather than just price. - Prepare Documentation Meticulously
Submit visa materials well ahead of deadlines, ensure your passport has at least six months validity, and obtain necessary Chinese visas for transit. - Pack Strategically and Ethically
Include practical items (medicine, snacks, toiletries), appropriate clothing (modest and respectful), and avoid prohibited materials. - Set Realistic Expectations
Accept the limitations of a highly controlled tour, prepare for the psychological aspects of constant supervision, and focus on the unique cultural insights rather than freedom of movement. - Engage Respectfully
Learn basic Korean phrases, bring small gifts for guides (chocolate, cigarettes, or cosmetics are appreciated), and approach interactions with cultural sensitivity rather than political judgment.
The most meaningful North Korean experiences come from connecting with people through shared humanity, not from confrontation or judgment. My most treasured memory remains joining an impromptu volleyball game with hotel staff in Wonsan—a rare moment of genuine, unscripted interaction that transcended political differences.
Frequently Asked Questions About North Korean Travel
Is it safe to visit North Korea?
For tourists who follow the rules, North Korea is physically very safe with virtually no crime against foreigners. The real risks are political—straying from your group, taking prohibited photos, or bringing banned materials can lead to serious consequences. In 2025, no Western nations recommend travel to North Korea, and some (including the US) prohibit their citizens from visiting without special permission.
Can I use my phone or access the internet?
As of 2025, North Korea offers a tourist SIM card for approximately €50 that allows international calls (but not to South Korea) at around €5/minute. There’s no internet access for tourists except in specialized business hotels in Pyongyang where limited email checking is possible for approximately €6 per hour. Social media, most foreign websites, and messaging apps remain blocked.
What happens if I get sick in North Korea?
Medical facilities for foreigners are extremely limited. The Friendship Hospital in Pyongyang treats tourists but lacks modern equipment and medications. Serious medical emergencies require evacuation to Beijing, which can be complicated and expensive. Comprehensive travel insurance with evacuation coverage is essential, and you should bring any prescription medications you might need.
Are Americans allowed to visit North Korea?
The US government currently prohibits the use of US passports for travel to North Korea, with exceptions requiring special validation from the State Department. These are rarely granted for tourism purposes. Other nationalities face no specific restrictions beyond the standard North Korean visa process.
How strictly are tourists monitored?
Monitoring is comprehensive but often subtle. Your guides stay with you from morning until night. Hotel rooms likely contain listening devices, especially in Pyongyang’s main tourist hotels. Your movements are tracked, and deviating from approved activities is not possible. That said, the monitoring is rarely intrusive if you follow the expected program.
Is it ethical to visit North Korea?
This remains a complex question with no universal answer. Tourism brings hard currency to the regime but also increases person-to-person contact between North Koreans and the outside world. Some argue that this exposure, however limited, helps gradually open the country, while others contend that tourism primarily funds a repressive system. Each traveler must weigh these considerations personally.
What souvenirs can I bring back?
Popular legal souvenirs include propaganda posters, stamps, local artwork, Pyongyang soju, handcrafted items, and books published by the Foreign Languages Publishing House. When returning home, check your own country’s import restrictions—some nations restrict North Korean goods under sanctions programs.
References and Further Reading
- Official DPRK website – The official North Korean government portal
- Koryo Tours Blog – Regularly updated information from the longest-running North Korea tour operator
- Young Pioneer Tours North Korea Guide – Practical information and tour reports
- NK News – Independent journalism covering North Korean affairs
- 38 North – Analysis of North Korean politics and society
- UK Foreign Office Travel Advice – Official British government travel advisories
- US State Department Information – Official US position on North Korean travel
- “Without You, There Is No Us” by Suki Kim – Memoir of teaching at Pyongyang’s elite university
- “Nothing to Envy” by Barbara Demick – Award-winning account of daily life in North Korea
- “See You Again in Pyongyang” by Travis Jeppesen – A writer’s experiences studying in North Korea