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Ultimate Pietermaritzburg Cheat Sheet: 2025 Insider’s Guide to South Africa’s Hidden Gem

Ultimate 2025 Pietermaritzburg travel cheat sheet with insider tips, best things to do, local food spots, money-saving hacks, and practical advice from a frequent visitor to this South African gem.

Welcome to Pietermaritzburg: My Personal Love Affair with South Africa’s Sleepy Giant

The first time I stepped foot in Pietermaritzburg back in 2018, I made the classic rookie mistake of thinking I could “do” the city in a day trip from Durban. Oh, how wrong I was! What started as a quick visit to tick off the Tatham Art Gallery from my list turned into a three-day adventure that completely changed my South African itinerary. I still remember standing in the dappled light of the magnificent Colonial Building, feeling completely blindsided by the city’s charm and thinking, “Why hasn’t anyone told me about this place?”

Seven visits later, I’ve grown to love this administrative capital of KwaZulu-Natal province with its fascinating blend of Zulu, Indian, and European heritage. Nicknamed “Maritzburg” by locals (who might give you an approving nod if you use this shortened version), this city offers a refreshing break from South Africa’s more touristy destinations.

This cheat sheet compiles everything I’ve learned through trial, error, and countless conversations with locals. Whether you’re stopping by en route to the Drakensberg Mountains or making PMB (another local abbreviation I’ve picked up) your base for exploring the Midlands Meander, I hope my experiences help you discover the genuine heart of this underrated city.

Pietermaritzburg at a Glance: Essential Information

Before diving into specifics, here’s a quick overview of what you need to know:

Category Details
Best Time to Visit March-May (autumn) and September-November (spring)
Currency South African Rand (ZAR)
Language English, Zulu, Afrikaans
Local Greeting “Sawubona” (Zulu for “I see you”)
Tipping 10-15% in restaurants is standard
Emergency Number 10111 (Police), 10177 (Ambulance)
Weather Hot summers (Dec-Feb), mild winters (Jun-Aug)
Local Time SAST (GMT+2)

Remember, Pietermaritzburg sits at a higher altitude (596m) than nearby Durban, making evenings cooler than you might expect. I’ve shivered through many a night in summer because I didn’t pack a light jacket!

Getting to Pietermaritzburg: Transportation Guide

Most international travelers arrive in South Africa via Johannesburg’s OR Tambo International Airport (JNB). From there, you have several options:

By Air

While Pietermaritzburg does have its own airport (Oribi Airport), flights are limited and typically connect from Johannesburg. In 2025, Airlink operates daily flights, but they’re often pricier than other options.

Insider Tip: I usually find it more cost-effective to fly into King Shaka International Airport in Durban (DUR) and then take ground transportation to Pietermaritzburg.

By Car

Renting a car gives you the most flexibility. The drive from Durban to Pietermaritzburg takes approximately 1 hour via the N3 highway. From Johannesburg, it’s about a 5-hour drive.

I learned this the hard way: The N3 highway between Durban and Pietermaritzburg is undergoing major upgrades until late 2025. Allow extra travel time, especially during weekdays, and check the N3 Toll Concession website for updates on roadworks before your journey.

By Bus or Shuttle

Several operators run services between major cities and Pietermaritzburg:

  • Greyhound – Recently returned to South Africa in 2023, offering comfortable coaches.
  • Intercape – Budget-friendly option with multiple daily departures.
  • Baz Bus – Hop-on, hop-off service popular with backpackers.

By Train

The historic Pietermaritzburg Railway Station (where Gandhi was famously thrown off a train in 1893) connects with Durban and Johannesburg via Shosholoza Meyl trains. However, service has been unreliable since the pandemic, so check current schedules.

I once took the train from Durban just for the experience, and while it was fascinatingly nostalgic (and cheap at R70 one-way), it took nearly 3 hours for what should have been a 1-hour journey. Consider it if you’re not in a hurry and want the experience!

Where to Stay: Accommodation Options for Every Budget

Pietermaritzburg offers a surprising range of places to stay, from historical guesthouses to modern apartments.

Best Neighborhoods

  • Wembley – Upscale residential area with lovely guesthouses.
  • Scottsville – Near the university with a youthful vibe and affordable options.
  • Montrose – Quieter area with good access to Liberty Midlands Mall.
  • City Center – Convenient but can be noisy; best for historical accommodations.

Budget Options (Under R500/night)

  • Jock Cycle Lodge – Simple but clean rooms near the Botanical Gardens. I stayed here during my first visit and found the communal kitchen a great place to meet locals.
  • Duvet & Crumpets Guesthouse – Homey guesthouse with incredibly hospitable owners.
  • African Enterprise Conference Centre – No-frills rooms in a peaceful setting.

Mid-Range (R500-1200/night)

  • A Garden Suite – My personal favorite! This peaceful garden cottage in Wembley feels like your own private sanctuary.
  • Redlands Hotel – Good location near the university with reliable amenities.
  • Lincoln Cottages – Charming self-catering units with lovely gardens.

Luxury (R1200+/night)

  • Tala Collection Game Reserve – Not in Pietermaritzburg itself but just 40 minutes away. Combines luxury accommodation with wildlife viewing.
  • Fountains B&B – Elegant rooms in a renovated Victorian mansion with a pool.
  • Ascot Boutique Hotel – Upscale option with excellent service near the Scottsville Racecourse.

Money-Saving Tip: Many guesthouses offer significant discounts for stays of 3+ nights. Always email directly to ask about extended stay rates. I saved nearly 30% on my week-long stay at A Garden Suite by negotiating directly with the owner rather than booking through a platform.

Getting Around Pietermaritzburg

Pietermaritzburg isn’t the most walkable city, and public transportation is limited. Here’s how to navigate:

Car Rental

Having your own car is ideal. All major rental companies have offices at Oribi Airport. Current rates in 2025 start at around R400/day for a basic vehicle.

Warning: During my third visit, I nearly got stuck with a R3,000 damage fee for a tiny scratch because I declined the extra insurance. Learn from my mistake and get the comprehensive coverage!

Uber and Bolt

Both ride-sharing apps operate in Pietermaritzburg and are my go-to when I don’t have a rental car. Wait times can be 10-15 minutes in quieter areas, so plan accordingly.

Local Taxis

Minibus taxis are the main form of public transportation for locals. They’re very affordable (R10-20 per trip) but can be confusing for visitors. Ask a local to help you interpret the route signs and hand signals.

Walking

The CBD is compact enough to explore on foot during daylight hours, but I don’t recommend extensive walking in unfamiliar areas, especially after dark.

Top 12 Things to Do in Pietermaritzburg

Beyond the standard tourist attractions, here are my favorite experiences:

Historical Gems

  1. KwaZulu-Natal Museum – Don’t miss the exceptional fossil collection and Zulu cultural exhibits. Allow at least 2 hours.
  2. Pietermaritzburg City Hall – The largest red-brick building in the Southern Hemisphere. Take the guided tour (Wednesday and Friday mornings) to access the clock tower.
  3. Gandhi Statue at Church Street – Commemorating the spot where Mahatma Gandhi was thrown off a train in 1893, catalyzing his path to non-violent resistance.

Nature and Outdoors

  1. Botanical Gardens – South Africa’s oldest botanical garden is perfect for a morning walk. The tea garden serves excellent scones (R65 with jam and cream in 2025).
  2. World’s View – Drive up to this lookout point at sunset for spectacular panoramic views of the city and surrounding valleys.
  3. Queen Elizabeth Park – Spot zebras and antelope just minutes from the city center! Entry fee is R50 per person as of 2025.

Cultural Experiences

  1. Tatham Art Gallery – Housed in the old Supreme Court building, this gem showcases South African art alongside international pieces. Free entry means you can visit multiple times.
  2. Macrorie House Museum – A perfectly preserved Victorian bishop’s residence that offers a glimpse into colonial life.
  3. Comrades Marathon Museum – Even if you’re not a runner, the stories behind the world’s oldest ultramarathon are fascinating.

Local Experiences

  1. Scottsville Racecourse – If you’re visiting during race season (typically weekends), the atmosphere is electric. Entrance fees start at R25.
  2. Liberty Midlands Mall – When the afternoon heat gets too much, this air-conditioned mall is where locals hang out. Great for people-watching.
  3. Golden Horse Casino – Not just for gambling; their weekend buffet (R275) is a local institution.

Insider Tip: The first Thursday of each month features an Art Walk through the CBD, where galleries stay open late and local artists showcase their work. I stumbled upon this by accident and ended up purchasing a beautiful Zulu beadwork piece directly from the artist for half what it would cost in tourist shops.

Day Trips from Pietermaritzburg

Pietermaritzburg makes an excellent base for exploring the surrounding region:

Midlands Meander

This scenic route through rolling countryside is dotted with artisan workshops, craft breweries, and farm stalls. Allow a full day to explore properly. My recommended stops:

  • Ardmore Ceramics – World-renowned ceramic studio showcasing incredible African-inspired designs.
  • Nottingham Road Brewing Company – Award-winning craft beers in a charming setting.
  • Swissland Cheese – Artisanal goat cheese farm where you can taste multiple varieties.
  • Blueberry Café – The panoramic views alone are worth the drive, but their blueberry cheesecake (R85) is legendary.

Howick and the Midmar Dam

Just 20 minutes from Pietermaritzburg, Howick is home to impressive waterfalls and the Nelson Mandela Capture Site monument. Nearby Midmar Dam offers swimming, fishing, and watersports.

Valley of a Thousand Hills

Head east toward Durban to experience traditional Zulu culture in this spectacularly beautiful landscape. The PheZulu Safari Park offers cultural shows and wildlife encounters.

Where to Eat: Food Guide to Pietermaritzburg

The city’s diverse cultural heritage is reflected in its culinary scene. Here are my tested favorites:

Best Breakfast Spots

  • Café Bloom (Wembley) – Their shakshuka (R85) with homemade bread is my weekend ritual when in town.
  • Rosehurst Garden Café (CBD) – Set in a Victorian house with a lovely garden. Try their banana bread French toast (R70).
  • Vida e Caffè (Liberty Midlands Mall) – For a quick coffee and pastry when you’re on the go.

Lunch Options

  • Sagewood Café (Athlone) – Farm-to-table concept with excellent salads and sandwiches. Their butternut and feta salad (R90) is refreshing on hot days.
  • Tandoor Palace (CBD) – Authentic Indian cuisine at very reasonable prices. The lunch buffet (R130) lets you sample multiple dishes.
  • Kara O’Mula Country Lodge (Townbush Valley) – Go for the views as much as the food. Their deck overlooks the city.

Dinner Favorites

  • Olive & Oil (Victoria Centre) – Mediterranean-inspired menu with excellent seafood. Book ahead for dinner.
  • Traffords (Athlone) – My splurge spot for special occasions. Their slow-roasted lamb shank (R255) is worth every penny.
  • Havana Restaurant (Liberty Midlands Mall) – Consistently good steaks and grills in a lively atmosphere.
  • Jaipur Palace (CBD) – The butter chicken (R140) here ruined me for all other butter chickens worldwide!

Hidden Gems

  • Karkloof Farmers’ Market (Saturday mornings) – Not a restaurant but my favorite place for breakfast. The vetkoek (fried dough) with mince (R45) is a local specialty worth trying.
  • Capital Caterers (Winston Road) – This unassuming takeaway spot serves the best bunny chow in town. A quarter mutton bunny costs R75.
  • The Cake Lady (Scottsville) – Looks like someone’s home because it is! Ring the bell and enter a world of incredible homemade cakes and pastries.

Local Food Terms:
“Bunny chow” – Not rabbit! It’s a hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with curry, a KwaZulu-Natal specialty.
“Vetkoek” (pronounced “fet-cook”) – Deep-fried dough bread, often filled with savory mince.
“Boerewors” – Traditional South African sausage that you must try at least once.

Money-Saving Tips for Pietermaritzburg

Traveling in South Africa can be surprisingly affordable if you know where to look. Here are my best budget hacks:

Accommodation Savings

  • Stay longer – As mentioned earlier, many guesthouses offer substantial discounts for stays of 3+ nights. Always ask!
  • Consider university accommodation – During university holidays (June-July and December-January), the University of KwaZulu-Natal sometimes rents out student residences at bargain rates.
  • Look outside the city center – Properties in Hilton and Howick (15-20 minutes away) often offer better value and more space.

Food Hacks

  • Lunch specials – Many restaurants offer the same meals at lunch for 20-30% less than dinner prices.
  • Shop at Woolworths Food – Their ready-made meals are high quality and cost far less than eating out for every meal.
  • First Watch (CBD) offers an early bird special before 8:30am with coffee and breakfast for R65.
  • Fill up at farmers’ markets – The Karkloof and Pietermaritzburg Farmers’ Markets (Saturday mornings) offer fresh, affordable food in pleasant surroundings.

Transportation

  • Fuel up in the city – Petrol stations in rural areas charge more. Fill your tank before heading out to the Midlands.
  • Car rental tip – Book the smallest car category and you’ll often get a free upgrade, especially during weekdays.
  • Uber vs. Bolt – Always check both apps, as prices can differ significantly for the same route. I’ve saved up to 40% by comparing.

Attractions

  • Free museums – The Tatham Art Gallery and the Old Prison Museum don’t charge entrance fees.
  • Comrades House – Free entry to learn about the famous ultramarathon’s history.
  • Nature on a budget – While some nature reserves charge entry fees, the Botanical Gardens only requests a small donation.

Super-Saver Tip: The iSimangaliso Wetland Park Card costs R300 but gives you unlimited access for a whole year to all KZN Wildlife parks around Pietermaritzburg, including Queen Elizabeth Park and Midmar Dam. It pays for itself in just 3 visits!

Sustainable Travel in Pietermaritzburg

Sustainable choices often save money while helping to preserve the natural beauty and cultural heritage of the area:

Water Conservation

KwaZulu-Natal has faced severe droughts in recent years. Help by:

  • Taking short showers instead of baths
  • Reusing hotel towels
  • Reporting any water leaks to accommodation staff

Supporting Local Communities

  • Shop at Shweshwe Stop in the CBD for locally-made textiles and crafts where profits go directly to artisans.
  • Visit the Ubuntu Craft Shop at the KZN Museum, which supports local women’s cooperatives.
  • Join a community-led tour of Edendale Township through WowZulu Marketplace, where your fees directly benefit local guides.

Eco-Friendly Choices

  • The African Bird of Prey Sanctuary near Pietermaritzburg does critical conservation work. Your entrance fee (R90) supports their raptor rehabilitation efforts.
  • Choose accommodations like Granny Mouse Country House in the Midlands that have implemented water recycling and solar power.
  • Bring reusable shopping bags – South Africa charges for plastic bags in supermarkets.

Safety Tips for Pietermaritzburg

Pietermaritzburg is generally safer than larger South African cities, but it’s still wise to take precautions:

General Safety

  • Avoid walking alone after dark, especially in the CBD.
  • Use ATMs located inside shopping malls rather than street-facing ones.
  • Keep car doors locked while driving and don’t leave valuables visible.
  • Be cautious with your phone – avoid using it conspicuously on the street.

Areas to Exercise Caution

Parts of the CBD become quiet after business hours and on weekends. I recommend taking Ubers rather than walking through these areas when they’re deserted.

The area around the long-distance taxi rank can be chaotic, especially on weekends. Keep your wits about you if passing through.

Phone Numbers to Know

  • Police Emergency: 10111
  • Ambulance: 10177
  • Tourist Police: 082 331 5261
  • Mediclinic Pietermaritzburg (Hospital): 033 845 3700

Personal Experience: I once left my backpack in a coffee shop in the CBD and realized 30 minutes later. When I rushed back, not only was it still there, but the staff had kept it safely behind the counter. While it’s important to be cautious, I’ve found most Pietermaritzburg residents to be incredibly honest and helpful.

Seasonal Considerations and Events

Pietermaritzburg has distinct seasons that affect your travel experience:

Summer (December-February)

Hot and humid with afternoon thunderstorms. Temperatures can reach 35°C (95°F).

  • Royal Show (Late May/Early June) – The largest agricultural show in KZN with exhibitions, competitions, and entertainment.
  • Christmas Market (December) – Local crafts and food at the Botanic Gardens.

Autumn (March-May)

My favorite time to visit! Mild days, cool evenings, and beautiful fall colors.

  • Art in the Park (May) – Outdoor art exhibition in Alexandra Park.
  • Dusi Canoe Marathon (February) – World-famous canoe race from Pietermaritzburg to Durban.

Winter (June-August)

Cool, dry days and cold nights. Pack warm clothes for evenings when temperatures can drop to 5°C (41°F).

  • Comrades Marathon (June) – The world’s oldest and largest ultramarathon alternates direction each year between Durban and Pietermaritzburg.
  • Hilton Arts Festival (September) – Outstanding theater and arts festival at Hilton College just outside the city.

Spring (September-November)

Warm days with occasional rainfall. The jacaranda trees bloom, painting parts of the city purple.

  • Garden Show (September) – Gardening exhibition with plants for sale and landscaping ideas.
  • Midlands Literary Festival (November) – Celebrating South African literature.

Practical Information for Visitors

Internet and Connectivity

WiFi is widely available in cafes and accommodations, but mobile data is often more reliable:

  • Purchase a local SIM card at any Vodacom, MTN, or Cell C store (bring your passport).
  • 1GB of data costs approximately R85-R100 in 2025.
  • Major shopping malls offer free WiFi, though it’s often time-limited.

Shopping Hours

  • Malls: 9am-6pm (Monday-Saturday), 9am-3pm (Sunday)
  • Supermarkets: 8am-7pm (some open until 8pm)
  • Small shops in the CBD: Many close early on Saturday (1pm) and don’t open on Sunday

Banking

  • ATMs are widely available in shopping centers and near supermarkets.
  • Major banks include ABSA, Standard Bank, FNB, and Nedbank.
  • Credit cards are widely accepted, but keep some cash handy for smaller establishments and markets.

Medical Facilities

Pietermaritzburg has good medical facilities:

  • Mediclinic Pietermaritzburg – Private hospital with 24-hour emergency room.
  • Daymed Private Hospital – Smaller facility with good care.
  • Grey’s Hospital – Public hospital with capable emergency services.
  • Pharmacies are plentiful, with Clicks and Dis-Chem having the widest selection of medications.

Conclusion: Making the Most of Your Pietermaritzburg Experience

Pietermaritzburg may not have the immediate draw of Cape Town’s Table Mountain or Kruger’s wildlife, but it’s precisely this under-the-radar quality that makes it special. After seven visits, I’ve come to appreciate the city’s slower pace and authentic character that offers a glimpse into everyday South African life away from the tourist trail.

What started as a quick stopover on my first South African trip has evolved into a place I now consider a second home – somewhere I know the cafe owners by name and have favorite corner tables at local restaurants.

5-Step Action Plan for Your Visit

  1. Start in the center – Begin with a morning walking tour of the colonial CBD to appreciate the Victorian and Edwardian architecture.
  2. Connect with nature – Spend your afternoon in the Botanical Gardens, followed by sunset at World’s View.
  3. Embrace local culture – Dedicate a day to the excellent museums, particularly the KZN Museum and Tatham Art Gallery.
  4. Explore the surroundings – Use Pietermaritzburg as your base for at least one day trip to the Midlands Meander.
  5. Connect with locals – Whether at a farmers’ market or local cafe, strike up conversations. KwaZulu-Natal residents are known for their friendliness, and local insights will enrich your experience immeasurably.

Remember, the beauty of Pietermaritzburg isn’t in rushing from attraction to attraction but in the gentle rhythm of life, the colonial-meets-African aesthetic, and the genuine warmth of its people. Go slowly, observe carefully, and you’ll discover the subtle charms that keep drawing me back year after year.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Pietermaritzburg worth visiting?

Absolutely! While often overlooked in favor of Durban or the Drakensberg, Pietermaritzburg offers authentic South African experiences, beautiful Victorian architecture, excellent museums, and serves as the perfect gateway to the Midlands Meander. It’s ideal for travelers who prefer to explore beyond the typical tourist trail.

How many days should I spend in Pietermaritzburg?

I recommend at least 2-3 days in the city itself, plus an additional 2 days if you plan to explore the surrounding Midlands Meander. This gives you enough time to appreciate the historical sites, museums, and local culture without rushing.

What’s the best time of year to visit Pietermaritzburg?

Autumn (March-May) and spring (September-November) offer the most pleasant weather with mild temperatures and less rainfall. Winter (June-August) is also good, though evenings can be quite chilly. Summer (December-February) can be very hot and humid with frequent afternoon thunderstorms.

Do I need a car in Pietermaritzburg?

While not absolutely essential for exploring the city center, having a car will significantly enhance your experience, especially for visiting attractions like World’s View or taking day trips to the Midlands Meander. If you don’t drive, Uber and Bolt services are reliable within the city.

Is Pietermaritzburg safe for tourists?

Pietermaritzburg is generally safer than larger South African cities, but normal precautions should still be taken. Avoid walking alone after dark, particularly in the CBD, keep valuables secure, and be aware of your surroundings. Most tourist areas and attractions are quite safe during daylight hours.

What unique souvenirs can I buy in Pietermaritzburg?

Look for Zulu beadwork, especially the colorful love letters (coded messages in beaded patterns), handcrafted ceramics from the Midlands artisans, locally roasted coffee beans, and Shweshwe fabric products which make excellent, authentic souvenirs that support local artisans.

What local dishes should I try in Pietermaritzburg?

Don’t miss trying bunny chow (curry served in a hollowed bread loaf), boerewors (traditional sausage), malva pudding (sweet dessert), and if you’re adventurous, try a traditional Zulu meal including pap (maize porridge) with chakalaka (spicy vegetable relish) at Ezinkawini in Imbali township.

Can I use credit cards in Pietermaritzburg?

Yes, credit cards (especially Visa and Mastercard) are widely accepted in restaurants, supermarkets, and larger establishments. However, it’s advisable to carry some cash for smaller vendors, markets, and tips. ATMs are readily available throughout the city.

How do I get from Durban to Pietermaritzburg?

The most convenient way is by car, taking approximately 1 hour via the N3 highway. Alternative options include regular bus services (Greyhound, Intercape) or the less reliable but more scenic Shosholoza Meyl train service. Minibus taxis also operate this route and are the most economical option.

Are there any health concerns I should be aware of?

Pietermaritzburg is not in a malaria zone, so antimalarial medication is not necessary. The tap water is safe to drink. The biggest health concern is the strong African sun – wear sunscreen, even on cloudy days. Medical facilities in the city are excellent if needed.

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