The Dalmatian Dream: My Split Story
The first time I wandered into Split’s ancient alleyways back in 2018, I immediately regretted planning just two nights there. Seven visits later, I’m still discovering hidden corners in this 1,700-year-old city. Last summer, as I sat sipping travarica (herb grappa) at a tiny konoba tucked behind Diocletian’s Palace while chatting with the owner’s grandmother about her traditional peka recipe, I realized how much insider knowledge I’ve gathered about this Adriatic gem. This guide compiles everything I wish I’d known before my first trip—from avoiding the tourist traps along the Riva to finding the local beaches where you won’t hear a word of English.
Whether you’re planning your first Croatian adventure or returning to dig deeper into this fascinating coastal city, this Split cheat sheet distills my years of trial and error (and numerous sunburns) into practical advice for making the most of your 2025 visit. You’ll discover where to find the best ćevapi at midnight, how to navigate the ferry system without stress, and why the seemingly efficient taxi from the airport might be your biggest regret.
Getting to Split: Transportation Options for 2025
While Zagreb (ZAG) is Croatia’s main international airport, most visitors to Split fly directly to Split Airport (SPU), which has significantly expanded its routes for 2025. However, if you’re combining Split with a broader European itinerary, arriving via Zagreb might offer better long-haul connections.
From Zagreb to Split
If you’re flying into Zagreb International Airport (ZAG), you have several options to reach Split:
- Bus: The most economical option at 25-35€ one-way, with a journey time of 5-6 hours. GetByBus offers easy online booking.
- Train: The recently upgraded line has reduced travel time to 5 hours (down from 6+ hours in previous years). Tickets cost approximately 30€ and can be purchased through Croatian Railways.
- Flight: Quick 40-minute flights run multiple times daily, typically ranging from 70-120€ depending on the season.
- Car rental: The A1 motorway makes this a straightforward 4-hour drive, but beware summer traffic can add 1-2 hours.
Money-saving tip: I’ve found that booking the Zagreb-Split bus ticket at least 10 days in advance through FlixBus can save you up to 40%. The front-row upper deck seats offer spectacular coastal views for the same price!
Direct to Split Airport (SPU)
Split’s airport has grown tremendously, with 2025 bringing several new direct routes from major European cities. Getting from the airport to the city center is straightforward:
- Airport shuttle bus: 4€ one-way, departing every 30 minutes with a journey time of approximately 30-40 minutes
- Public bus #37: The local secret! Just 2€ one-way, though less frequent and slightly longer journey
- Taxi: Fixed rate of 35€ to the city center
- Uber/Bolt: Usually 20-25€, depending on demand
I learned the hard way that taxis waiting directly outside arrivals charge tourist prices. Walk just 100 meters to the main road and use the Uber or Bolt app for nearly half the price—a trick that saved me 15€ on my last visit!
Where to Stay: Split’s Best Neighborhoods for Different Travelers
After trying accommodations in nearly every part of Split across my visits, I’ve developed strong opinions about which neighborhoods suit different types of travelers. While Booking.com and Airbnb show plenty of options, where you stay dramatically impacts your experience.
Old Town (Diocletian’s Palace & Surrounding Areas)
Staying within the ancient walls means you’re literally sleeping inside a UNESCO World Heritage site. The maze-like streets are car-free, and you’ll step outside your door directly into history.
- Perfect for: First-time visitors, history lovers, photographers
- Drawbacks: Higher prices (expect to pay 30-50% more than other areas), noise from bars until late, dragging luggage over cobblestones
- Price range: 100-300€/night for decent accommodations in high season
When I stayed in a tiny apartment inside the palace walls last June, I loved waking up at 7 AM to photograph the empty alleys before cruise ship crowds arrived. By 10 AM, these same charming passages were packed shoulder-to-shoulder—something to consider if crowds bother you.
Varoš
This hillside neighborhood just west of the Old Town offers the perfect balance—traditional stone houses, quiet streets, yet just a 5-10 minute walk to all attractions.
- Perfect for: Travelers seeking authenticity without sacrificing convenience
- Drawbacks: Many accommodations involve climbing steps (pack light!)
- Price range: 70-180€/night in high season
I discovered this neighborhood on my third visit and haven’t stayed anywhere else since. The family-run Divota Apartment Hotel has become my go-to—they’ve converted traditional houses into stylish accommodations while preserving architectural details.
Bačvice & Firule
These eastern neighborhoods offer easy beach access and a more residential feel, while still being within 15-20 minutes’ walk of the Old Town.
- Perfect for: Beach lovers, families with children, longer stays
- Drawbacks: Some parts feel less characterful, with more concrete apartment buildings
- Price range: 60-150€/night in high season
Insider tip: For long-term stays (2+ weeks), look at apartments in the residential area behind Bačvice beach. In May 2024, I rented a fantastic one-bedroom with sea views for just 700€/month through a Facebook group called “Apartments and Rooms in Split.” The listed price was 900€, but I messaged the owner directly and negotiated.
Accommodation Comparison for Different Budgets
Budget Level | Old Town | Varoš | Bačvice/Firule | Best For |
---|---|---|---|---|
Budget (Under 70€/night) |
Tiny studios, shared bathrooms, significant noise | Small but charming rooms, often with shared terraces | Basic but functional apartments, often with kitchenettes | Bačvice – more space for your money |
Mid-range (70-150€/night) |
Well-renovated studios inside historic buildings | Lovely apartments in stone houses, often with character features | Modern 1-2 bedroom apartments, sometimes with sea views | Varoš – best value-to-experience ratio |
Luxury (150€+/night) |
Designer apartments in prime locations, some with palace views | Renovated entire houses with private terraces and premium furnishings | Large sea-view apartments or boutique hotels with pools | Old Town – for the full historic immersion |
Exploring Split: Must-See Attractions Without Tourist Traps
Split’s ancient core can be fully explored in a day, but it deserves at least two or three to appreciate without rushing. Here’s how to experience the highlights while avoiding the crowds.
Diocletian’s Palace: Beyond the Obvious
This 4th-century Roman complex forms the heart of Split’s Old Town. While everyone visits, few explore it properly.
- The Peristyle: The central square is magnificent but swamped with tourists from 9 AM-6 PM. Visit before 8 AM or after 8 PM for a more magical experience.
- The Cellars: The underground halls (40 kuna/~5€ entry) are worth exploring, but skip the overpriced Game of Thrones merchandise stalls inside.
- Bell Tower: The climb offers spectacular views, but the line peaks between 10 AM-2 PM. Go first thing in the morning or in the late afternoon.
Local secret: Instead of paying to enter the Cathedral of Saint Domnius during the day (when it’s packed), attend the evening mass (usually 7 PM). It’s free, respectful, and you’ll experience the space as it was intended—filled with candlelight and choral music rather than selfie sticks.
Beyond the Palace Walls
Some of Split’s best attractions lie just beyond the historic core:
- Marjan Hill: This forested peninsula offers hiking trails, viewpoints, and secluded swimming spots. The 30-minute climb to the first viewpoint rewards you with panoramic city views.
- Meštrović Gallery: The former home and studio of Croatia’s greatest sculptor is surprisingly untouristed. The seaside setting, sublime artwork, and peaceful gardens make this my favorite cultural spot in Split.
- Sustipan: This small peninsula park west of the city center offers sunset views that rival any Mediterranean postcard. I’ve returned here on every visit to Split.
On my third trip to Split, I discovered that walking the full circuit around Marjan Hill takes about 2-3 hours and passes multiple small beaches where locals swim. Pack water shoes (the shoreline is rocky), a picnic from the Green Market, and make a day of it!
Morning-to-Night Split Itinerary
- 7:30 AM: Coffee at Luxor Café in the Peristyle before the crowds
- 8:30 AM: Bell Tower climb for morning views
- 10:00 AM: Explore the palace cellars and Jupiter’s Temple
- 12:00 PM: Lunch at Konoba Nona in Varoš
- 2:00 PM: Visit Meštrović Gallery
- 4:00 PM: Swimming at Kašjuni Beach beneath Marjan Hill
- 7:00 PM: Sunset drinks at Vidilica viewpoint
- 8:30 PM: Dinner at Konoba Hvaranin
- 10:30 PM: Nightcap in the atmospheric Ghetto Club
Local Cuisine: Where and What to Eat in Split
After multiple extended stays in Split, I’ve eaten everywhere from tourist traps charging 25€ for mediocre seafood risotto to grandmothers’ kitchens serving the best homecooked meals of my life. Here’s my authentic food guide.
Traditional Dalmatian Dishes to Try
- Peka: Meat or octopus slow-cooked under an iron bell—requires advance ordering (usually 3+ hours)
- Crni rižot: Black risotto colored with cuttlefish ink
- Pašticada: Beef marinated for days in prosecco, cooked with prunes and served with gnocchi
- Soparnik: A thin pie filled with Swiss chard, garlic and olive oil (the original flatbread pizza!)
- Fritule: Small donut-like pastries flavored with rakija and citrus zest
Language tip: When ordering, saying “Hvala lijepa” (hvah-lah lee-eh-pa) instead of just “hvala” for “thank you” will often get you a smile and sometimes even a complimentary rakija after your meal!
Where Locals Actually Eat
Avoid the restaurants with English menus and staff calling you in from the Riva. Instead, try these authentic spots:
- Konoba Marjan: Hidden in the Varoš neighborhood, this family-run spot serves the best pašticada I’ve had. Reservation essential.
- Konoba Fetivi: Another local institution where fishermen bring their daily catch. The owner Drazen will recommend dishes based on what’s fresh.
- Bebito: Modern place with local craft beers and excellent small plates. Perfect for lunch.
- Villa Spiza: Tiny spot with daily-changing menu written on a chalkboard. Go early (before 7 PM) or be prepared to wait.
One evening in Villa Spiza, I watched the chef run out mid-service to borrow olive oil from his grandmother who lives nearby when they unexpectedly ran out. That’s the kind of place you want to eat at!
Market Shopping for Self-Catering
If your accommodation has a kitchen, shopping at Split’s markets is both economical and rewarding:
- Green Market (Pazar): Open daily until around 2 PM, with the best selection before 10 AM. Prices drop dramatically around 1 PM as vendors prepare to leave.
- Fish Market (Peškarija): Located in a beautiful art nouveau building. Go around 8 AM to see the full selection. The smell will tell you it’s fresh!
- Joker Mall Supermarket: For everything else, this large supermarket has reasonable prices.
My biggest Split food revelation: buying a simple lunch of fresh bread, local sheep cheese (sir), pršut (prosciutto), cherry tomatoes, and peaches from the market costs about 8-10€ for two people—compared to 30-40€ at a restaurant—and makes for a perfect picnic on Marjan Hill.
Average Food Costs (2025 Prices)
Category | Tourist Area | Local Area | Best Value Option |
---|---|---|---|
Coffee | 2-3€ | 1-1.50€ | Kava bar Šare near the market |
Burek (pastry snack) | 3-4€ | 2€ | Bobis bakery, get there before 9 AM |
Seafood dinner | 25-40€ per person | 15-25€ per person | Konoba Nikola in Stobreč (worth the bus ride) |
Glass of local wine | 5-7€ | 2-4€ | Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar (happy hour 5-7 PM) |
Pizza | 10-14€ | 7-9€ | Pizzeria Galija, order takeaway and eat by the Riva |
Beaches in Split: From Popular Spots to Hidden Coves
When I first visited Split, I was surprised that its most famous beach, Bačvice, was small and crowded. Seven visits later, I’ve discovered that the city’s best swimming spots require a bit more effort to reach, which is exactly why they’re worth it.
Popular City Beaches
- Bačvice: The main city beach with sandy (rare in Croatia) shallow waters. It’s packed in summer but culturally significant as the home of picigin, a traditional ball game. Visit before 9 AM or after 7 PM for a more pleasant experience.
- Ovčice: Just past Bačvice, this smaller pebble beach has clearer water and a nice beach bar. Popular with local families.
- Firule: Continue east to find this local favorite with a relaxed atmosphere and small beach café.
The first time I tried playing picigin at Bačvice (the shallow-water handball game where players keep a small ball from touching the water), I was immediately invited into a group of local players who spent an hour teaching me. Despite my terrible skills, it became one of my favorite Split memories!
Marjan Peninsula Beaches
For clearer water and more natural settings, head to Marjan Hill:
- Kašjuni: Large pebble beach on the south side of Marjan with beach club facilities. Reachable by bus #12 or a 30-minute walk from town.
- Kaštelet: Smaller, quieter beach near the Meštrović Gallery.
- Ježinac: The closest Marjan beach to the city, with shaded areas and a café.
- Bene: On the north side of Marjan, this family-friendly spot has pine shade, recreation facilities, and fewer tourists.
Hidden Swimming Spots Only Locals Know
After befriending several Split residents, I’ve been introduced to these lesser-known gems:
- The concrete platforms along the western side of Marjan Peninsula—no facilities but crystal clear deep water and few visitors.
- Duilovo Beach east of the city past the resort zone—wilder shoreline with dramatic cliffs.
- Institute Beach (Plaža Institut)—a small pebble cove near the Oceanographic Institute that’s never crowded.
Local swimming etiquette: Croatians consider swimming a morning and late afternoon activity. Between 12-4 PM, locals retreat from the sun. Follow their lead to avoid the strongest UV rays and experience beaches like a local. Also, topless sunbathing is common and normal at most beaches outside the main city beaches.
Day Trips from Split: Beyond the City Walls
While Split itself deserves several days, its position makes it the perfect base for exploring central Dalmatia. Based on my numerous visits, here are day trips ranked by their reward-to-effort ratio.
Island Escapes
The nearby islands offer distinctly different experiences:
- Brač: The closest island, just 50 minutes by ferry. Visit Zlatni Rat beach, the picturesque village of Pučišća, and the highest peak in the Adriatic islands (Vidova Gora).
- Hvar: The glamorous island takes 1 hour by catamaran (summer only) or 2 hours by ferry. Beyond the main town’s party scene, explore lavender fields and secluded coves.
- Šolta: My personal favorite for a quiet day trip. The waterfront restaurants in Maslinica serve incredible seafood at mainland prices.
- Vis: The furthest island (2.5 hours), it’s only feasible as a very long day trip. Better with an overnight stay, but worth mentioning for its unspoiled beauty and exceptional wines.
Money-saving ferry tip: A little-known fact is that foot passenger ferry tickets cannot be purchased online more than 24 hours in advance. The machines at the port often have long lines in summer. Instead, use the Jadrolinija office in the ferry building, which almost never has a queue because most tourists don’t realize it exists!
Coastal Excursions
Breathtaking destinations along the mainland coast:
- Trogir: This UNESCO-listed island town is just 30 minutes by bus. Its medieval core is more compact and preserved than Split’s. I prefer visiting in the evening when day-trippers have left.
- Omiš: A dramatic town where the Cetina River meets the sea, surrounded by towering cliffs. Great for zipline and rafting adventures.
- Makarska: This resort town has one of Croatia’s most spectacular beaches backdropped by the Biokovo mountain range. The coastal bus ride itself is worth the journey.
Inland Adventures
Don’t overlook the stunning interior regions:
- Krka National Park: Often overshadowed by Plitvice, Krka is actually more accessible from Split (1.5 hours) and allows swimming near its waterfalls (which Plitvice doesn’t).
- Klis Fortress: Just 20 minutes from Split, this mountain stronghold offers spectacular views and Game of Thrones filming locations without the crowds.
- Sinj: Experience authentic rural Dalmatian culture in this town famous for its annual Alka knights’ tournament in August.
My biggest day trip mistake was joining an overpriced organized tour to Krka when public transportation was easy and half the cost. The bus from Split’s main station leaves several times daily (more frequently in summer), drops you at Skradin, from where a national park boat takes you directly to the waterfalls—no guide necessary!
Day Trip Comparison Table
Destination | Travel Time | Transport Cost (round trip) | Best For | Avoid |
---|---|---|---|---|
Brač | 50 min ferry | 10-15€ | Beaches, villages, mountain views | Zlatni Rat beach between 11 AM-4 PM (extremely crowded) |
Hvar | 1-2 hours | 16-30€ | Historic town, nightlife, lavender fields | July-August unless you enjoy crowds and heat |
Trogir | 30 min bus | 5€ | Compact medieval architecture, fewer crowds | Midday in summer when cruise ships visit |
Krka NP | 1.5 hour bus | 15€ + 25€ park entry | Swimming near waterfalls, nature | Organized tours charging 70€+ for what you can do independently for 40€ |
Klis Fortress | 20 min bus | 4€ + 10€ entry | Views, history, Game of Thrones locations | Going without water in summer—no shade! |
Practical Travel Tips: Money, Language, and Local Etiquette
Over my seven visits to Split, I’ve made countless mistakes and discoveries that have made each trip smoother than the last. Here’s what you need to know to navigate Split like a seasoned visitor.
Currency and Money Matters
Croatia adopted the Euro on January 1, 2023, replacing the previous currency (kuna). Some practical financial advice:
- ATMs are plentiful, but those in tourist areas often have poor exchange rates and high fees. I recommend using ATMs attached to major banks (OTP, PBZ, Erste).
- Many small businesses still prefer cash, especially for amounts under 20€.
- Tipping culture has evolved: 10% is standard in restaurants, though locals often round up the bill instead.
- Price ranges vary dramatically between tourist and local areas—walk just 5 minutes from the Riva to find coffee and meals 30-50% cheaper.
ATM warning: Avoid the yellow Euronet ATMs that dominate tourist areas! On my second trip, I lost nearly 30€ in hidden fees from one transaction. Bank-affiliated ATMs offer much better rates.
Essential Croatian Phrases
While many Split residents speak excellent English, learning a few Croatian phrases goes a long way:
- Dobar dan (DOH-bar dan) – Good day (standard greeting)
- Hvala (HVAH-lah) – Thank you
- Molim (MOH-leem) – Please/You’re welcome
- Doviđenja (doh-vee-JEN-yah) – Goodbye
- Živjeli! (ZHEE-vye-lee) – Cheers!
- Koliko košta? (KOH-lee-koh KOSH-tah) – How much does it cost?
- Gdje je…? (g-DEH yeh) – Where is…?
My favorite local phrase unique to Dalmatia is “Pomalo” (POH-mah-loh), which literally means “little by little” but functions as a philosophy for taking things slowly and without stress. When a shopkeeper or waiter seems unhurried despite your tourist impatience, remember: pomalo!
Local Customs and Etiquette
Understanding these cultural norms will help you blend in:
- Greetings: Locals always greet shopkeepers when entering and thank them when leaving, even without making a purchase.
- Coffee culture: Coffee is never rushed or taken to-go. Expect to sit for at least 30 minutes, and don’t be surprised if your server doesn’t bring the bill until you request it.
- Dress code: While beachwear is fine at beaches, wearing just swimwear in the city center is considered inappropriate. Bring a cover-up when moving between beach and town.
- Meal timing: Locals eat lunch between 1-3 PM and dinner rarely before 8 PM. Restaurants serving dinner at 6 PM are catering exclusively to tourists.
One cultural mistake I made on my first visit was trying to rush my coffee experience. I grew increasingly frustrated when the waiter seemed to be ignoring me after serving my espresso. I later learned that bringing the bill quickly would have been considered rude, as it signals you want the customer to leave!
Avoiding Common Tourist Pitfalls
- Falling for “Free Walking Tours” that pressure for large tips at the end. Instead, use the excellent audio guides available online or book a fairly-priced tour with local guides like Ivana from Secret Split Tours.
- Buying bottled water when tap water is perfectly safe and free. The city has numerous water fountains, including historical ones within Diocletian’s Palace.
- Paying fixed price at markets without friendly negotiation. A smile and buying multiple items can typically get you 10-20% off quoted prices.
- Eating on the Riva where restaurants charge premium prices for average food. The best meals are found in the small streets behind the waterfront.
Seasonal Considerations: When to Visit Split
Having visited Split during every season over the years, I’ve experienced the dramatic differences between the peaceful off-season city and its bustling summer incarnation. Here’s my honest assessment of each season’s pros and cons.
Peak Season (June-August)
Pros:
- Perfect beach weather with water temperatures of 23-26°C (73-79°F)
- Vibrant atmosphere with street performances and festivals
- All tourist facilities, ferries, and excursions operating at full schedule
- Long daylight hours (sunset around 8:30 PM)
Cons:
- Overwhelming crowds, especially July-August
- Accommodation prices 2-3x higher than shoulder season
- Midday heat can reach uncomfortable 35°C+ (95°F+)
- Restaurant wait times and need for reservations
During my August 2023 visit, the Old Town was so crowded at midday that moving through certain streets took three times longer than normal. If you must visit in summer, structure your day to explore popular sites before 9 AM or after 6 PM.
Shoulder Seasons (April-May & September-October)
Pros:
- Pleasant temperatures (20-25°C/68-77°F) perfect for sightseeing
- Swimming possible, especially in late May and throughout September
- Significantly fewer crowds
- Accommodation prices 30-50% lower than peak season
- More authentic local experience
Cons:
- Some island ferry routes run reduced schedules
- Evening can be cool, requiring a light jacket
- Occasional rainy days, especially in October
My personal recommendation: Late September has become my favorite time to visit Split. The summer crowds have dissipated, the sea is still warm from months of sunshine, accommodation prices drop significantly after September 15th, and restaurants are more relaxed while still fully operational.
Off Season (November-March)
Pros:
- Experience the city as locals do
- Bargain accommodation prices (often 70% less than summer)
- No lines or waits at attractions
- Mild winter compared to northern Europe (usually 8-14°C/46-57°F)
Cons:
- Many tourist facilities closed or operating limited hours
- Some restaurants closed for vacation (especially January-February)
- Limited ferry schedules to islands
- Rain more common, especially November-December
- Swimming not feasible
During my February visit, I was initially disappointed by how many places were closed, but I ended up having amazing experiences when local friends showed me the winter side of Split—like joining a group of elderly men playing boules in Varoš, being invited to a home-cooked Sunday lunch, and having Diocletian’s Palace almost entirely to myself for photography.
Annual Events Worth Planning Around
- Carnival (February) – Colorful parades and traditions
- Days of Diocletian (Late May) – Historical reenactments within the palace
- Ultra Europe Music Festival (July) – Major electronic music event
- Split Summer Festival (July-August) – Cultural performances in historic venues
- Split Film Festival (September) – International independent film showcase
- Christmas Market (December) – Festive atmosphere with local crafts and food
Money-Saving Strategies: Split on a Budget
Croatia’s tourism boom has pushed prices upward, especially in coastal hotspots like Split. However, after multiple extended visits (including a month living on a tight budget), I’ve discovered numerous ways to enjoy this magnificent city without emptying your wallet.
Accommodation Hacks
- Location flexibility: Staying just 10-15 minutes walk from the Old Town in neighborhoods like Lučac or Manuš can save 30-40% on accommodation costs.
- Longer stays: Many apartment owners offer significant discounts for stays of 5+ nights. For my 3-week stay last spring, I negotiated a 40% discount from the listed nightly rate.
- Off-platform booking: Once you find a place you like on Booking.com or Airbnb, try searching for the property name online. Many owners have direct booking options that save on platform fees.
- University dorms: During summer break (mid-June to mid-September), Split’s university rents clean, basic rooms for approximately 30€/night—an incredible deal for budget travelers.
Insider budget tip: The Facebook group “Split Accommodation” has listings from local owners often 15-25% cheaper than international booking platforms, especially for last-minute bookings. I found a studio apartment for 35€/night in June when similar places on Booking.com were 55€+.
Eating and Drinking for Less
- Marenda lunch specials: Many konobas offer fixed-price lunch menus (marenda) between 12-4 PM, typically 8-12€ for 2-3 courses. Konoba Fife and Konoba Matejuška have excellent options.
- Market meals: The Green Market (Pazar) offers fresh produce, cheese, and bread for picnic meals at a fraction of restaurant costs.
- Bakery breakfasts: Local bakeries like Bobis and Luka sell filling pastries for 1-2€. Try burek (cheese or meat-filled pastry) for a substantial morning meal.
- Refillable water bottles: Split has numerous public water fountains with perfectly safe drinking water. The historic Onofrio’s Fountain in the Old Town is both a landmark and a free water source.
- Happy hour specials: Several bars offer 2-for-1 drinks between 5-7 PM, including Paradox Wine Bar and Leopold’s.
My biggest food budget discovery came when a local friend introduced me to the student cafeteria near the university. With a student ID (or sometimes just by looking like a student), you can get a complete meal with meat, sides, salad, and dessert for around 5€. It’s not gourmet, but it’s authentic local food at an unbeatable price.
Transportation Savings
- Walking: Split’s compact center means you rarely need public transport for city exploration.
- Bus passes: If staying longer than a week, the 15€ weekly bus pass pays for itself with just 5 round trips.
- Bike rentals: Numerous shops offer daily rentals for 10-15€, cheaper than multiple bus tickets if exploring further areas like Marjan Hill.
- Airport transfers: The public bus #37 costs just 2€ to/from the airport versus 35€ for a taxi.
Sightseeing on a Budget
- Free walking tours: While these expect tips, setting your own price can be economical. Split Free Tour offers quality introductions to the city.
- Museum timing: Many museums offer free entry on specific days—the Archaeological Museum is free on Fridays.
- Split Card: If visiting multiple museums and attractions, the Split Card provides free entry to various sites and is complimentary for stays of 3+ days in participating hotels.
- Self-guided walks: Download free audio guides from the tourist board website instead of paying for guided tours.
Complete Day in Split for Under 25€
- Breakfast: Burek and coffee from a local bakery (3€)
- Morning: Self-guided walking tour of Diocletian’s Palace using a free downloadable guide
- Lunch: Marenda daily special at Konoba Fife (8€)
- Afternoon: Beach time at Bačvice or hiking on Marjan Hill (free)
- Sunset: Climb the Marjan stairs to Vidilica viewpoint (free)
- Evening: Market-bought picnic dinner with a bottle of local wine (12€)
- Night: Free summer concerts often held in Republic Square
Sustainability tip that saves money: Split has a problem with plastic water bottle waste. Bringing a reusable water bottle and refilling at public fountains not only saves approximately 3-5€ per day but also reduces plastic consumption. The tap water in Split is excellent quality and completely safe to drink.
Your Split Action Plan: Making the Most of Your Visit
After seven visits to Split spanning every season, I’ve refined the perfect approach to experiencing this remarkable city. Here’s my five-step action plan to help you make the most of your time, regardless of how long you’re staying.
Step 1: Orient Yourself Within the First Few Hours
Start with a purposeful walk that gives you the lay of the land:
- Begin at the Riva waterfront, taking in the harbor view
- Enter Diocletian’s Palace through the Bronze Gate (southern entrance)
- Pass through the basement halls and emerge into the Peristyle
- Exit through the northern Iron Gate into People’s Square (Pjaca)
- Continue west to Republic Square (Prokurative)
- Circle back east along the market area
This 30-45 minute walk covers the core historic area and helps you understand Split’s compact layout. Stop for a coffee at Luxor Café in the Peristyle to absorb the atmosphere and watch the world go by.
Step 2: Balance Cultural Exploration with Relaxation
Split’s magic lies in the contrast between its ancient stones and Mediterranean lifestyle:
- Reserve mornings (8-11 AM) for cultural sites when temperatures are cooler and crowds thinner
- Schedule beach time during midday heat (12-4 PM) when sightseeing becomes uncomfortable
- Return to the old town for late afternoon exploration when lighting is perfect for photography
- Enjoy the evening promenade (šetnja) along the Riva like locals do
This rhythm follows the natural flow of the city and prevents the burnout I experienced during my first visit when I tried to sightsee continuously through the midday heat.
Step 3: Connect with Local Life Through Food and Drink
Food is your gateway to authentic Split:
- Shop at the Green Market in the morning, practicing a few Croatian phrases with vendors
- Try the marenda (set lunch) specials where you’ll dine alongside locals
- Visit a konoba in the evening, asking for the owner’s recommendations rather than ordering familiar dishes
- End with a nightcap at a neighborhood bar away from the main tourist areas
When I started asking what’s fresh or special today rather than ordering from the menu, my dining experiences transformed. I’ve been invited into kitchens, served off-menu family recipes, and even received impromptu rakija tastings from proud restaurant owners.
Step 4: Expand Beyond the Historic Core
Many visitors never venture beyond Diocletian’s Palace and the Riva, missing Split’s full character:
- Spend at least half a day exploring Marjan Hill and its hidden beaches
- Walk through residential neighborhoods like Varoš or Lučac
- Visit the Meštrović Gallery and surrounding Kastelet area
- Take at least one day trip to either an island or nearby coastal town
The contrast between tourist Split and everyday Split is striking. Some of my most memorable experiences have been in ordinary neighborhoods—discovering a tiny family bakery making traditional soparnik in Lučac, or happening upon an impromptu klapa (traditional a cappella) performance in a Varoš courtyard.
Step 5: Allow for Spontaneity and Connection
The Mediterranean pace of life rewards those who don’t overschedule:
- Leave at least one day in your itinerary completely unplanned
- Accept invitations from locals, even if they disrupt your plans
- Spend time simply sitting in a café or on a bench people-watching
- Be willing to get lost in the labyrinthine streets
- Return to places or experiences you particularly enjoyed rather than checking off more sights
During my third visit to Split, I canceled a planned day trip to accept an invitation from my Airbnb host to join her family’s Sunday lunch. That impromptu gathering, which stretched into the evening with music, stories, and homemade wine, remains my single most treasured memory of all my time in Croatia.
Remember the Dalmatian philosophy of “pomalo” (little by little, take it easy). Split has stood for 17 centuries and will still be there tomorrow—there’s no need to rush through it in a day.
Frequently Asked Questions About Split
Is Split safe for tourists?
Split is extremely safe by international standards. Violent crime is rare, and most safety concerns involve petty theft in crowded tourist areas. Basic precautions like not leaving valuables unattended at the beach and being aware of your surroundings at night are sufficient. As a solo female traveler during several of my visits, I felt completely comfortable walking alone, even late at night in the city center.
How many days should I spend in Split?
Three full days is the minimum to experience Split properly—one for the historic core, one for beaches and Marjan Hill, and one for a day trip. However, five to seven days allows a more relaxed pace and the ability to take multiple day trips to nearby islands and coastal towns. I’ve stayed as long as three weeks and still found new things to discover.
When is the best time to visit Split?
Late May to mid-June and September to early October offer the ideal balance of pleasant weather, swim-friendly sea temperatures, and manageable crowd levels. July and August bring perfect beach weather but also peak crowds and prices. Winter visits (November-March) provide an authentic local experience but with many tourist facilities closed.
Do I need to rent a car in Split?
A car is unnecessary and often inconvenient within Split itself, as the historic center is pedestrianized and parking is expensive (15-20€ per day). Public transportation and occasional taxis can meet most needs. However, a car is useful if you plan to explore smaller towns and rural areas of Dalmatia beyond the reach of buses and ferries.
Is Split suitable for families with children?
Split is excellent for families, offering safe beaches with shallow water (especially Bačvice), interactive museums like the Split City Museum with its miniature city model, and family-friendly accommodations. Children particularly enjoy the Green Market, climbing Marjan Hill, and exploring the “basement” of Diocletian’s Palace, which feels like an adventure maze.
How expensive is Split compared to other European destinations?
Split is moderately priced by European standards—more expensive than Eastern Europe but still more affordable than Western European hotspots. Budget travelers can manage on 50-70€ per day (including accommodation), while mid-range travelers should budget 100-150€ daily. Restaurant meals range from 8-15€ for lunch to 15-30€ for dinner, with higher prices in prime tourist locations.
Is English widely spoken in Split?
Yes, English proficiency is excellent in Split, especially among younger people and those working in tourism. You’ll have no problem communicating in hotels, restaurants, and shops. Learning a few basic Croatian phrases is appreciated but not necessary. I’ve found that attempting even basic Croatian often leads to friendly conversations and occasionally preferential treatment.
What should I pack for Split that tourists often forget?
Bring water shoes for rocky beaches (though they can be purchased locally for 10-15€), a hat and high-SPF sunscreen (the Adriatic sun is intense), a reusable water bottle to refill at public fountains, and a light sweater or jacket for evening sea breezes even in summer. If visiting historic churches, pack something to cover shoulders and knees. Many tourists forget adaptors for the European-style plugs (type C/F).
Are credit cards widely accepted in Split?
Most established restaurants, hotels, and shops accept major credit cards, but smaller businesses, market vendors, and some family-run restaurants remain cash-only. Always carry some cash for small purchases, and note that American Express is less widely accepted than Visa and Mastercard. ATMs are plentiful, but stick to bank-affiliated machines to avoid excessive fees.
Is Split a good base for exploring other parts of Croatia?
Split makes an excellent base for exploring Central Dalmatia, with easy access to islands (Brač, Hvar, Šolta, Vis), coastal towns (Trogir, Omiš, Makarska), and national parks (Krka). However, for visiting Istria, Zagreb, or Dubrovnik, you’d be better off changing bases as each is 3+ hours away by car.
References and Further Reading
- Official Split Tourism Board – The definitive source for events and official information
- Jadrolinija Ferry Company – Schedules and booking for island ferries
- Total Croatia News – Current events and developments in Split in English
- In Croatia, An Ancient City with Youth Appeal – Thoughtful NPR piece on Split’s evolution
- Lonely Planet: Split – Reliable overview and planning information
- Honest Croatia Travel Blog – Detailed insights from long-term visitors
- Expat in Croatia – Practical advice from foreign residents
- Dalmatia Express – Comprehensive bus information for day trips
- Traditional Dalmatian Recipes – Learn to cook what you’ve enjoyed in Split
- Krka National Park – Information for planning a day trip
- Time Out Split – Current dining and entertainment recommendations
- Croatia Week – News and cultural insights in English