Is Eritrea Safe for Travelers in 2025? An Honest Safety Guide - Xplrverse

My Eritrea Safety Experience: What You Need to Know

The first time I stepped off the plane at Asmara International Airport in 2018, I was filled with a mix of excitement and apprehension. After years of reading conflicting reports about Eritrea’s safety, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Seven visits later, I’ve developed a nuanced understanding of safety in this fascinating yet complex nation.

During my most recent three-month stay exploring everything from Asmara’s Italian colonial architecture to the remote coastal areas near Massawa, I was consistently struck by the disconnect between international perceptions and on-the-ground realities. One evening, sharing injera with a local family in Keren, my host Tekle laughed when I mentioned my initial fears: “Haddis ember hadash iyyu” – “A stranger is simply a friend you haven’t met yet” in Tigrinya.

This guide draws from my personal experiences navigating Eritrea’s safety landscape, from military checkpoints to health concerns, to provide you with honest insights for your 2025 travel plans.

Current Political Situation and General Safety (2025 Update)

Eritrea’s safety situation has evolved significantly since the 2023 peace developments in the region. The country remains politically stable but continues to operate under a single-party government led by President Isaias Afwerki since independence in 1993.

Key Safety Indicators for 2025

Crime rates: Violent crime against foreigners remains extremely rare
Terrorism threat: Low compared to neighboring countries
Political stability: Government control is firm, with minimal civil unrest
Border conflicts: Relations with Ethiopia improved since 2018 peace agreement, though tensions occasionally flare

The 2024 relaxation of certain travel restrictions has made independent travel more feasible, though government oversight remains significant. Most travelers will encounter a highly regulated but generally safe environment.

Travel Restrictions and Military Presence

One aspect of Eritrea that often surprises first-time visitors is the heavy military presence and movement restrictions. During my April 2024 visit, I had to obtain special permits (menkesakesi) for travel outside Asmara, a process that took three days at the Ministry of Tourism office on Harnet Avenue.

Traveler Tip: Always carry your travel permit, passport, and visa documentation. I once spent an uncomfortable four hours at a checkpoint near Massawa when I forgot my permit at the hotel. No amount of explaining or smiling could expedite the process!

Checkpoints are common on all roads between major cities, and soldiers may photograph or briefly hold your documents. This isn’t cause for alarm – it’s standard procedure and rarely leads to problems if your paperwork is in order.

Visa Requirements and Border Crossings

Obtaining an Eritrean visa remains one of the more challenging aspects of planning your trip.

How to Apply for an Eritrean Visa in 2025

Apply through your nearest Eritrean embassy or consulate (processing times range from 2-8 weeks)
Provide a detailed travel itinerary
Submit a letter of invitation from an Eritrean sponsor or tourism company
Include proof of accommodation bookings
Pay the visa fee (approximately $70 USD as of January 2025)

I strongly recommend working with a reputable local travel agency like Eritrean Tourism Services. During my 2023 visit, my visa application was initially rejected because my itinerary lacked sufficient detail. My contact at ETS, Senait, revised my application with proper formatting and specific locations, resulting in approval within 10 days.

Land Border Crossings

While land borders with Ethiopia reopened in 2018, crossing overland remains complicated and unpredictable. In February 2024, I attempted to cross at the Zalambessa border point but found it unexpectedly closed due to a local holiday. The border with Sudan remains technically open but is currently inadvisable due to the conflict in Sudan.

Crime and Personal Safety

Contrary to what many Westerners might expect, Eritrea boasts remarkably low crime rates. Petty theft exists but is far less common than in many European or North American cities.

Common Safety Concerns

Safety Issue	Risk Level	Notes
Violent crime	Very Low	Extremely rare against foreigners
Petty theft	Low	Occasional in markets and crowded areas
Scams	Low-Moderate	Currency exchange scams most common
Harassment	Low	Uncommon, though staring and curiosity are normal

My most concerning safety incident in seven visits was having my camera temporarily confiscated after accidentally photographing a government building in downtown Asmara. The police were professional but firm, checking my photos before returning the camera with a warning.

Nighttime Safety

Asmara feels remarkably safe after dark. The city’s Italian-inspired cafés and bars along Liberation Avenue create a lively but controlled atmosphere until around 11pm. Unlike many African capitals, walking alone at night in central Asmara generally poses minimal risk, though I still recommend basic precautions.

Money-Saving Insider Tip: Instead of hiring a taxi for evening transport in Asmara, use the informal shared vans that locals call “mini” that run until about 9pm. For just 5 Nakfa (approximately $0.30 USD), you can travel between most city destinations safely. Look for vans with a specific route number displayed in the window.

Health and Medical Safety

Eritrea presents several health challenges for travelers, from limited medical facilities to endemic diseases.

Essential Health Precautions

Vaccinations: Yellow fever (required for entry), hepatitis A and B, typhoid, rabies, and COVID-19 are recommended
Malaria prevention: Necessary when visiting lowland areas like Massawa and Keren, especially during rainy season (June-September)
Water safety: Drink only bottled or purified water; avoid ice in drinks
Travel insurance: Comprehensive medical evacuation coverage is essential

During my stay in Massawa in July 2023, I made the mistake of using only mosquito spray instead of taking prophylactic medication. I developed mild malaria symptoms and learned firsthand how limited medical facilities can be. The hospital had basic services but lacked diagnostic equipment, and I ultimately needed to return to Asmara for proper treatment.

Orotta National Referral Hospital in Asmara is the country’s best medical facility, but still falls short of international standards. For serious conditions, medical evacuation to Nairobi or Europe would be necessary.

Food and Water Safety

Eritrean cuisine is delicious but requires some precautions:

Traditional injera (fermented flatbread) is generally safe due to the fermentation process
Exercise caution with raw vegetables and unpeeled fruits
Street food safety varies; look for busy stalls with high turnover
Bring a water purification system to reduce plastic waste and save money

Sustainable Money-Saving Tip: I bring a SteriPEN water purifier on all my Eritrea trips. In three months, I saved nearly $200 on bottled water while avoiding creating plastic waste. The device paid for itself within two weeks!

Regional Safety Variations

Safety conditions vary significantly across Eritrea’s six administrative regions. Here’s my assessment based on recent visits:

Asmara and the Highlands (Maekel Region)

The capital Asmara and surrounding highlands are the safest areas for tourists. The moderate climate (Asmara sits at 2,325 meters elevation), well-maintained colonial architecture, and concentrated government presence make this region straightforward to navigate.

Coastal Areas (Northern Red Sea Region)

The port city of Massawa and the Dahlak Archipelago require additional permits but offer extraordinary experiences. Military presence is particularly heavy in coastal areas given their strategic importance. During my February 2024 visit, obtaining permission to visit the islands took seven days and required submitting a detailed day-by-day plan.

The scorching heat (regularly exceeding 40°C/104°F from May-September) presents a significant health risk. I once made the mistake of cycling from Massawa to Foro during midday heat and suffered severe dehydration despite carrying four liters of water.

Border Regions

Areas along the Ethiopian, Sudanese, and Djibouti borders have varying levels of restriction. The Gash-Barka region bordering Sudan is currently inadvisable due to spillover concerns from the Sudanese conflict. The southern border with Ethiopia (around Senafe) has opened to limited tourism since 2022 but requires special permits and local guides.

Current Regional Travel Advisories (2025)

Maekel (Central) Region: Generally safe for tourism
Northern Red Sea Region: Safe with proper permits and precautions
Southern Red Sea Region: Partially restricted, requires special permission
Anseba Region: Generally safe with permits
Gash-Barka Region: Travel discouraged near Sudanese border
Debub (Southern) Region: Mostly accessible with permits

Communication and Internet Safety

Internet access in Eritrea remains among the most restricted and slowest in the world, presenting challenges for travelers accustomed to constant connectivity.

Mobile and Internet Access

The state-owned EriTel remains the only telecommunications provider. SIM cards are available to foreigners with proper documentation (passport, visa, and accommodation details). In my experience, the process takes 1-2 days and costs about 200 Nakfa ($13 USD).

Internet access is primarily available through:

Internet cafés in major cities (slow connections, approximately 50 Nakfa/$3.30 USD per hour)
Major hotels in Asmara (unreliable and expensive)
Mobile data (extremely limited bandwidth and frequently unavailable)

During my January 2025 visit, I discovered that the Asmara Palace Hotel had upgraded its satellite internet connection, offering the fastest speeds in the country (though still comparable to dial-up elsewhere). At 400 Nakfa ($26 USD) per day for non-guests, it’s expensive but sometimes necessary for urgent communications.

Insider Money-Saving Tip: Instead of paying for hotel internet, visit the National Union of Eritrean Youth and Students center near the Cathedral in Asmara. For 30 Nakfa ($2 USD) per hour, their connection is often more reliable than hotel options, and the fee supports youth education programs.

Digital Security Considerations

Government monitoring of internet and communications is extensive. During your visit, be aware that:

Social media platforms are technically accessible but heavily monitored
VPNs are legally prohibited (though some travelers use them discreetly)
Criticism of the government online can lead to questioning
Photography restrictions are strictly enforced (no military, government buildings, or infrastructure)

My most embarrassing mistake came in 2022 when I posted photos of Asmara’s stunning modernist architecture to Instagram while still in the country, including a distant shot of what I didn’t realize was a government ministry. I was politely but firmly asked to delete the post by hotel staff the following morning.

Women’s Safety in Eritrea

As a female traveler who’s explored Eritrea extensively, I’ve found the country to be surprisingly comfortable compared to many other destinations.

Cultural Considerations

Eritrean society blends traditional values with the legacy of women’s significant role in the independence struggle. Women travelers generally report fewer instances of harassment than in neighboring countries.

Key observations:

Conservative but not restrictive dress is appreciated (covering shoulders and knees)
Catcalling exists but is less aggressive than in many Western cities
Solo female travelers may attract curiosity but rarely unwanted attention
Evening walks in Asmara are generally safe, though having companions after 10pm is wise

During my solo visit to the markets in Keren, I initially felt uncomfortable with the stares but quickly realized they stemmed from genuine curiosity rather than hostility. When I began greeting people with “Selam” (hello in Tigrinya), the atmosphere immediately warmed.

Practical Tips for Women Travelers

Pack modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees
Bring feminine hygiene products, as selection is limited
Consider wearing a wedding ring (even if unmarried) to reduce unwanted attention
Learn basic Tigrinya phrases to establish rapport
Connect with local women through organized tours when possible

LGBTQ+ Traveler Considerations

This is a sensitive topic in Eritrea, where same-sex relations remain illegal and socially taboo. During my visits, I’ve traveled with LGBTQ+ friends who navigated the country safely by exercising discretion.

Important considerations:

Same-sex activity is technically criminalized (though prosecutions are rare for foreigners)
Public displays of affection are discouraged for all couples
LGBTQ+ travelers typically face no issues when presenting as friends or travel companions
No visible LGBTQ+ scene or community spaces exist

If you’re an LGBTQ+ traveler, I recommend exercising discretion while in Eritrea. The local approach is generally “don’t ask, don’t tell,” and respect for this cultural context is important for safety.

Transportation Safety

Getting around Eritrea safely requires understanding the transportation landscape, which is unlike most tourist destinations.

Road Safety

Eritrea’s road infrastructure varies dramatically:

Major highways (Asmara-Massawa, Asmara-Keren) are generally well-maintained
Secondary roads can be extremely rough, requiring 4WD vehicles
Road accidents are relatively common due to aging vehicles and challenging terrain
Night driving is strongly discouraged due to poor lighting and wildlife hazards

I learned this lesson the hard way during a 2023 trip when our vehicle suffered a broken axle on the road from Senafe to Dekemhare. We waited six hours for assistance, as there was no mobile coverage and minimal passing traffic.

Public Transportation

Public transportation options include:

Transport Type	Safety Level	Cost	Notes
Buses (Asmara city)	High	3-5 Nakfa ($0.20-0.33 USD)	Slow but reliable within the capital
Shared taxis	Moderate	15-30 Nakfa ($1-2 USD)	Often overcrowded but convenient
Long-distance buses	Moderate	Varies by distance	Basic comfort, variable schedules
Private taxis	High	200-500 Nakfa ($13-33 USD)	Most reliable option for foreigners

Money-Saving Insider Tip: Instead of hiring a private taxi for the spectacular Asmara to Massawa journey, take the early morning train when operating (check schedule at the Eritrean Railway). For just 200 Nakfa ($13 USD) compared to 2,000 Nakfa ($133 USD) for a private taxi, you’ll enjoy a safer, more scenic journey on one of Africa’s most historic railways.

Domestic Flights

Eritrean Airlines operates limited domestic flights between Asmara and Massawa/Assab. The safety record is reasonable, but schedules are unreliable and subject to last-minute cancellations. I’ve found ground transportation to be more dependable despite taking longer.

Currency and Financial Safety

Managing money safely in Eritrea requires planning and awareness of the country’s unique financial landscape.

Currency Considerations

The Eritrean Nakfa (ERN) is a closed currency, meaning:

You cannot obtain it before arriving in Eritrea
It cannot legally be taken out of the country
Exchange rates are strictly controlled by the government
A significant black market exists (though participating carries legal risks)

During my February 2025 visit, the official exchange rate was approximately 15 Nakfa to 1 USD, while the black market rate approached 60 Nakfa to 1 USD. This creates obvious temptation, but undercover police actively target illegal currency exchange.

Cautionary Tale: In 2023, I naively accepted an offer from a seemingly friendly shop owner to exchange currency at a “better rate.” Minutes after the transaction, I was approached by plainclothes officials who questioned me for an hour. I was let off with a warning, but the experience was deeply uncomfortable.

Banking and Payments

Eritrea remains predominantly cash-based:

International credit/debit cards are virtually unusable
ATMs exist but rarely work with foreign cards
Travelers should bring sufficient US dollars or Euros in cash
Official exchanges occur at banks and major hotels

I recommend changing money at Himbol Financial Services in Asmara (near the Cathedral) as they offer slightly better rates than hotels and more reliable service than other banks.

Emergency Procedures

Understanding emergency response in Eritrea is essential, as services differ significantly from Western expectations.

Emergency Contacts

Police: 113
Ambulance: 114 (limited service outside Asmara)
Fire: 116
Your embassy: Keep contact details accessible

Response times and service quality vary dramatically between Asmara and other areas. When I suffered a minor motorcycle accident near Keren in 2023, local assistance was immediate and hospitable, but formal emergency services took over two hours to arrive.

Embassy Support

Few countries maintain full embassies in Eritrea. As of 2025:

The UK has a limited diplomatic presence
The US Embassy closed in 2018, with the US represented by the Italian Embassy
Various European nations maintain small diplomatic missions
China, Russia, and several African nations have full embassies

Register your travel plans with your home country’s diplomatic service before arrival. For US citizens, this means enrolling in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP).

Conclusion: Is Eritrea Safe for You?

After seven visits across different regions and seasons, my conclusion is nuanced: Eritrea is physically quite safe for travelers who respect local regulations, but it requires significant preparation and flexibility compared to conventional destinations.

The remarkable lack of violent crime, theft, and tourist-targeting scams makes daily travel surprisingly relaxed. However, the political context, movement restrictions, and limited infrastructure create a unique risk profile that isn’t for everyone.

Your 5-Step Eritrea Safety Action Plan

Apply for visas and permits early – Start the process at least 3 months before travel and work with a local agency to navigate the bureaucracy
Arrange comprehensive travel insurance – Ensure it covers medical evacuation and verify they actually cover Eritrea (many exclude it)
Prepare financially – Bring sufficient cash in USD or EUR and understand the closed currency system
Create communication contingencies – Inform family of your itinerary and establish check-in protocols given limited internet
Pack strategically – Bring necessary medications, appropriate clothing, and physical maps/guides as digital resources may be inaccessible

For those willing to embrace its complexities, Eritrea offers extraordinary rewards: pristine beaches without development, ancient historical sites without crowds, and magnificent architecture without tour buses. The Eritrean people’s warmth and resilience have made each of my visits profoundly meaningful despite the logistical challenges.

As Tekle in Keren told me over coffee last year: “Hanti metsi kemtserya, kab rihuk aytekees” – “To know a place’s water, you must drink it yourself.” No safety guide can fully capture the experience of visiting this complex nation.

Frequently Asked Questions About Safety in Eritrea

Is it safe for Americans to travel to Eritrea?

Americans can travel safely to Eritrea but should be aware that the US lacks direct diplomatic representation in the country (the Italian Embassy provides limited consular services). The political relationship between the US and Eritrea remains complicated, so Americans should maintain a low profile, avoid political discussions, and strictly follow local regulations.

Is Eritrea safe for solo female travelers?

Eritrea is relatively safe for solo female travelers compared to many destinations. Harassment is less common than in neighboring countries, and violent crime is rare. However, women should dress modestly (covering shoulders and knees), exercise standard precautions after dark, and be prepared for curious attention, especially outside Asmara.

Can I use my cell phone and access the internet in Eritrea?

Cell service exists but is limited to the state provider EriTel. Internet access is among the slowest and most restricted globally, with social media platforms frequently blocked or monitored. Purchasing a local SIM requires proper documentation. Prepare for digital disconnection during your visit and inform contacts that you’ll have limited communication abilities.

How do travel restrictions affect safety in Eritrea?

Travel restrictions primarily affect convenience rather than safety. The permit system means tourists must stick to approved itineraries, but this typically keeps travelers in areas the government deems secure. The main safety implication is that spontaneous itinerary changes are difficult, so emergency situations might require working through bureaucratic channels before relocating.

What are the main health risks in Eritrea?

The primary health concerns are malaria (in lowland areas and coastal regions), waterborne illnesses, and limited medical facilities. Asmara’s high elevation (2,325m) can cause altitude sickness in some travelers. Healthcare outside the capital is extremely basic, and medical evacuation insurance is essential for any serious condition.

Is photography restricted in Eritrea?

Photography is heavily restricted. Never photograph military personnel, checkpoints, government buildings, infrastructure (bridges, dams, airports), or anything that could be considered politically sensitive. Always ask permission before photographing people. Violations can result in questioning, equipment confiscation, or in severe cases, detention.

How does Eritrea’s political situation affect tourists?

While Eritrea’s political system is authoritarian, tourists who avoid political engagement rarely encounter problems. The government values tourism revenue and generally ensures visitors’ physical safety. The main effects tourists notice are movement restrictions, limited internet, and the omnipresent security apparatus, rather than direct political interference.

Are credit cards accepted in Eritrea?

Credit cards are virtually unusable in Eritrea. The banking system is largely disconnected from international networks, meaning you must bring sufficient cash (preferably USD or EUR) for your entire trip. Official exchange occurs at banks and major hotels, while unofficial exchange carries legal risks despite better rates.