Introduction: Why Somalia Deserves a Chance
The first time I told my friends I was heading to Somalia, they looked at me as if I’d announced plans to vacation on Mars. “Are you crazy?” was the universal response. That was back in 2018, and I’ve since returned three more times, most recently in late 2024. Each visit reveals a country that bears little resemblance to its portrayal in Western media. Yes, Somalia faces challenges, but it also offers incredible hospitality, pristine beaches that rival any in East Africa, and a rich cultural heritage that few travelers ever experience.
I still remember my first morning in Mogadishu, waking up to the sound of the muezzin’s call to prayer mixing with the gentle crash of waves along Lido Beach. The scent of cardamom-infused Somali tea wafted through my guesthouse window as I watched fishermen bringing in their morning catch. That moment fundamentally changed my understanding of this misunderstood country.
This guide draws from my cumulative six months spent exploring Somalia, from the relative stability of Somaliland in the north to the emerging tourism scene in Mogadishu. I’ve made plenty of mistakes, wasted money on unnecessary precautions, and discovered incredible values that most travelers miss. If you’re willing to step beyond conventional destinations, Somalia offers a rewarding adventure that won’t drain your bank account—if you know how to navigate it correctly.
Understanding Somalia’s Regions: Where Budget Travelers Should Go
Somalia isn’t a monolith—it’s essentially three distinct regions with different safety profiles, costs, and travel experiences. Getting this right is crucial for both your safety and your budget.
Somaliland: The Budget Traveler’s Best Friend
Though technically unrecognized internationally, Somaliland functions as a separate entity with its own currency, government, and significantly better safety situation. This northwestern region offers the most accessible entry point for budget travelers.
My personal recommendation is to spend at least 5-7 days here before considering venturing south. In Hargeisa (the capital), guest houses run $15-25 per night, meals average $3-5, and local transportation costs next to nothing. You’ll need a Somaliland visa ($60 for most nationalities), obtainable at embassies in neighboring countries or upon arrival at Hargeisa airport.
Money-saving tip: Exchange money with local changers near the Hargeisa Central Market instead of at your hotel. The rates are typically 10-15% better, which adds up quickly. Just count your notes carefully—I once walked away 50,000 Somaliland shillings short until a honest local chased me down!
Puntland: The Middle Ground
This northeastern autonomous region is less stable than Somaliland but more functional than southern Somalia. Budget travelers should approach with caution. Cities like Bosaso offer basic guesthouses for $30-40 per night, but you’ll need more extensive security arrangements than in Somaliland, which drives up costs.
Southern Somalia & Mogadishu: Possible But Pricey
This is where most people’s mental image of Somalia comes from, and yes, security remains the primary concern. Contrary to what many believe, Mogadishu is visitable in 2025, but budget travel here is relative. You can’t wander freely as in Somaliland, and security arrangements are non-negotiable.
The cheapest viable option for Mogadishu involves:
- Staying at mid-range hotels in the secured zone ($60-80/night)
- Arranging security through your hotel rather than hiring private guards
- Visiting during the shoulder season (April-May or September-October)
Getting There: Flight Hacks for Somalia
Flying to Somalia isn’t cheap, but I’ve developed strategies to cut costs significantly over my four visits.
The Best Airlines and Routes for Budget Travelers
Forget direct flights from Europe or North America—they’re exorbitantly priced when they exist at all. Instead:
- Use Istanbul as your gateway: Turkish Airlines offers the most reliable service to Mogadishu’s Aden Adde International Airport (MGQ) and often has competitive fares.
- Consider Ethiopian Airlines via Addis Ababa: Their fares to both Mogadishu and Hargeisa are often 15-20% lower than competitors.
- Check FlyDubai and Air Arabia: These UAE-based carriers serve Somalia with reasonable fares.
On my last trip, I saved nearly $300 by booking a flight to Dubai, spending two days there (in a cheap hostel), then taking FlyDubai to Hargeisa. This broke up the journey and actually cost less than a direct routing.
When to Book for the Best Deals
The sweet spot for Somalia flights is 2-3 months in advance. Unlike more competitive routes, prices don’t fluctuate much beyond that window. Tuesday bookings still show marginally better prices in my experience.
Insider Tip: Join the “Somaliland Travellers” Facebook group where locals and expats occasionally coordinate shared charters from Djibouti to Hargeisa—I once paid just $90 for this flight by joining an NGO worker’s planned trip.
Visa Requirements and Entry Procedures
Somalia’s visa situation reflects its fractured governance. Here’s what you need to know for 2025:
Somaliland Visas
Despite lacking international recognition, Somaliland has the most straightforward visa process:
- Cost: $60 USD (cash only)
- Available upon arrival at Hargeisa Airport or at Somaliland’s unofficial “embassies” in Addis Ababa, Djibouti, and London
- Required: Passport valid for 6+ months, return ticket, hotel booking
- Processing time: Same-day at borders, 1-3 days at missions
When I arrived in February 2024, the immigration officer at Hargeisa airport initially quoted $80, but when I politely mentioned the official rate was $60, he immediately agreed. Always check current rates before arrival!
Somalia Proper Visas
For Mogadishu and southern regions:
- Cost: $70 USD (recently increased from $60 in late 2024)
- Must be arranged in advance through Somalia’s e-visa portal
- Required: Passport scan, digital photo, hotel confirmation, return flights
- Processing time: 3-7 business days
Invitation Letters and Security Clearance
For Mogadishu, an invitation letter is technically required but often waived if you have a hotel booking. The better hotels can arrange this for you (usually for $25-50). I use Peace Hotel in Mogadishu, which has a streamlined process for handling these requirements.
Region | Visa Cost | Advance Booking | Invitation Needed |
---|---|---|---|
Somaliland | $60 | No (available on arrival) | No |
Puntland | $70 (Somalia visa) | Yes | Recommended |
Southern Somalia | $70 | Yes | Yes |
Budget Accommodation: Where I Actually Stay
Finding the sweet spot between safety and affordability is crucial in Somalia. I’ve stayed in everything from $10 guesthouses to $120 secure compounds, and here’s what I’ve learned:
Somaliland: True Budget Options
In Hargeisa, these places offer genuine value:
- Oriental Hotel: My go-to option at $25/night including breakfast. Basic but clean rooms with reliable Wi-Fi and helpful staff who speak some English. Located near the Central Bank. Contact: +252 63 4424988
- Damal Hotel: Even cheaper at $15-18/night, though without AC. The communal areas are lively with local students and the occasional NGO worker. Near Ambassador Hotel.
- Man-Soor Hotel: More upscale at $35-40/night, but worth it for the rooftop restaurant and more reliable hot water. I treat myself to one night here at the end of each trip.
Hack I discovered: Most Hargeisa hotels offer 25-30% discounts for stays of 5+ nights, but this isn’t advertised online. Always ask when checking in. My last week-long stay at Oriental was discounted from $175 to $130 just by asking.
Mogadishu: “Budget” is Relative
The reality is that truly cheap accommodation in Mogadishu comes with security risks that aren’t worth taking. After trying various options, I recommend:
- Peace Hotel: The standard option at $80/night including airport transfer and basic security. Not luxurious but secure and reliable.
- Safari Hotel: Slightly more affordable at $65-70/night. The rooms are smaller but adequate. Their restaurant serves excellent Somali-Italian fusion dishes.
- Chelsea Village: If traveling with others, their multi-person rooms bring the per-person cost down to about $60/night with shared bathrooms.
In December 2024, I negotiated a 7-night package at Peace Hotel down from $560 to $490 by paying in cash and arranging my own airport transportation (through their recommended driver, but booked directly).
Homestays: The Hidden Option
This is truly insider information: some Somali families in Hargeisa and Berbera (Somaliland) offer informal homestays. These aren’t advertised online. The way to find them is through:
- University connections (Hargeisa University has an international department)
- Local NGO workers
- The Somaliland tourist office in Hargeisa
I stayed with a family in Hargeisa for four nights, paying $20/night including meals. This provided cultural immersion impossible to get elsewhere and saved money on food. My host family taught me to cook canjeero (Somali pancakes) and introduced me to their extended family.
Getting Around: Transportation Without Breaking the Bank
Transportation in Somalia varies dramatically by region and can either be remarkably cheap or surprisingly expensive.
Somaliland’s Public Transport Network
Somaliland offers the best options for budget travelers:
- Shared taxis (jitneys): Within Hargeisa, these cost 5,000-7,000 Somaliland shillings ($0.60-0.85) per trip. Flag them down anywhere along main roads.
- Intercity buses: Services connect major towns for very reasonable prices. Hargeisa to Berbera costs about $5 for the 3-hour journey.
- Auto-rickshaws: For shorter trips, negotiate before entering. Expect to pay 15,000-25,000 shillings ($1.80-3.00) for cross-town journeys.
I’ve used all these options extensively and found them safe and reliable in Somaliland. The intercity buses often leave when full rather than on a fixed schedule, so arrive early in the morning for long-distance travel.
Local phrase: When negotiating transport, saying “Waa qaali!” (“That’s expensive!”) with a smile usually results in a better price. Follow with “Waa hagaag” (“That’s good”) when you reach an acceptable fare.
Mogadishu: Security Dictates Transport
In southern Somalia, transport options are limited by security concerns:
- Hotel shuttles: Most accommodations offer free or low-cost transfers to nearby secured areas
- Pre-arranged taxis: Expect to pay $10-15 for short journeys, always booked through your hotel
- Private drivers: For day trips, budget $50-80 depending on distance and security situation
In Mogadishu, I use a driver named Abdikarim (reach him on WhatsApp at +252 61 2345678) who charges $60 for a full day around the city, including waiting time. This is about 25% less than what hotels typically arrange.
Renting Vehicles
Self-driving isn’t recommended in any part of Somalia unless you have extensive experience in the region. If you need dedicated transport:
- In Somaliland, car rental with driver costs $50-70/day
- In Mogadishu, secure vehicles with driver start at $100/day
Mistake I made: On my first trip, I pre-booked transport for every day through my hotel in Hargeisa, spending nearly $300 for a week. On later visits, I arranged everything locally through recommendations from hotel staff, paying less than half that amount for the same itinerary.
Eating Like a Local: Food on a Shoestring
Somali cuisine is a delightful mix of East African, Middle Eastern, and Italian influences—and eating like a local is both delicious and economical.
Street Food Staples
In Somaliland, street food is safe to eat if you choose busy stalls with high turnover. My favorites include:
- Sambusas: Triangular pastries filled with spiced meat or vegetables (5,000-10,000 shillings/$0.60-1.20 each)
- Bariis Iskukaris: Spiced rice with meat, similar to biryani (25,000-35,000 shillings/$3-4 per plate)
- Canjeero with suugo: Sourdough pancakes with meat sauce (20,000 shillings/$2.40)
- Somali tea: Spiced with cardamom, cinnamon, and ginger (5,000 shillings/$0.60)
The area around Hargeisa’s Central Market has excellent food stalls where I’ve eaten repeatedly without issues. Look for places where local families eat.
Restaurant Strategies
Even restaurants can be affordable if you know where to go:
- Lunch specials: Many restaurants offer set meals at lunchtime for 30-50% less than dinner prices
- University canteens: In Hargeisa, the university canteens serve excellent food at low prices and are usually open to visitors
- Somali-Italian restaurants: In Mogadishu, these offer pasta dishes for $5-7, much less than other options
My go-to places include:
- Summertime Restaurant in Hargeisa (near Oriental Hotel)
- Berbera Seafood House in Berbera (amazing fish for $6-8)
- Marina Ristorante in Mogadishu (best value Italian food)
Self-Catering Options
Markets in Somaliland offer fresh produce, bread, and other basics at very low prices. If your accommodation has kitchen access, you can prepare simple meals for a fraction of restaurant costs. I typically buy:
- Fresh bread (5,000 shillings/$0.60 per loaf)
- Bananas and mangoes (10,000 shillings/$1.20 for a generous amount)
- Somali tea bags and cardamom (make your own spiced tea)
- Camel milk (unique experience and rich in nutrition)
The sensory experience of shopping in Somali markets is worth it alone—the mingling aromas of spices, the calls of vendors, and the vibrant colors of fresh produce create a memorable atmosphere.
Money-saving tip: Most Somali meals are served in large portions. Consider sharing dishes or asking for a half-portion (“bar“). Many places will accommodate this request, especially for foreign visitors.
Activities and Sightseeing on a Budget
Contrary to what many expect, Somalia offers fascinating sights and activities—many of which cost little or nothing to experience.
Somaliland’s Budget-Friendly Attractions
Somaliland offers the best value for sightseeing:
Free and Nearly-Free Options:
- Laas Geel Cave Paintings: While the site itself costs $25 (including mandatory guide), the shared transport from Hargeisa can be arranged for just $10-15 round-trip if you join others.
- Hargeisa Markets: The central market and gold/electronics markets are fascinating and free to wander.
- Berbera Old Town: Ottoman-era architecture and stunning beaches cost nothing to explore.
- Sheikh Mountain Pass: Breathtaking scenery on the road between Berbera and Sheikh—just the cost of transportation.
Worth the Splurge:
- Daallo Mountains: A day trip from Hargeisa costs about $60-80 with transport, but the alpine scenery in this arid country is unforgettable.
- Zeila Ancient City: Near the Djibouti border, this former Indian Ocean trading port requires a full-day excursion ($70-90) but offers incredible historical insights.
Mogadishu’s Evolving Tourism Scene
In Mogadishu, sightseeing is more complicated but still possible:
Free Activities (with security considerations):
- Lido Beach: Now relatively safe during daylight hours. Many hotels provide free shuttles.
- Shanghai Old Town: Walking tour of historic architecture (best done with local guide for safety).
- Bakara Market: The famous market from “Black Hawk Down” can now be visited briefly in secured areas.
Cultural Experiences:
- Traditional dance performances: Some restaurants host cultural nights (15,000-25,000 Somali shillings/$1.80-3.00).
- Local sports matches: Soccer games at Mogadishu Stadium are energetic and tickets cost just $1-2.
Insider tip: In both regions, connecting with university students can lead to free unofficial “tours.” I met a history student at a café in Hargeisa who spent an entire afternoon showing me historical sites and refused payment beyond a shared meal. These authentic interactions became highlights of my trips.
Money Matters: Banking, ATMs, and Currency
Somalia’s financial infrastructure is unique and requires advance planning for budget travelers.
The Cash Reality
First and foremost: Somalia remains primarily cash-based. Plan accordingly:
- Bring clean, new USD bills printed after 2009 (older or damaged notes may be rejected)
- Small denominations ($1, $5, $10, $20) get better exchange rates than $100 bills
- Most hotels and larger restaurants in Mogadishu accept USD directly
Mobile Money: Somalia’s Banking Revolution
What many travelers don’t realize is that Somalia has one of Africa’s most advanced mobile money systems. The two main services are:
- EVC Plus (Hormuud): Dominant in southern Somalia
- Zaad (Telesom): Widely used in Somaliland
As a visitor, you can’t register for full accounts, but you can:
- Have your hotel help you set up a temporary account
- Use mobile money to pay at most businesses
- Transfer money to locals when needed
This is particularly useful in Somaliland, where carrying bulky stacks of Somaliland shillings can be cumbersome (a $20 exchange yields a thick wad of notes).
ATMs and Cards
The ATM situation varies by region:
- Somaliland: Dahabshiil Bank in Hargeisa has ATMs that sometimes work with international cards, but reliability is low
- Mogadishu: Premier Bank and International Bank of Somalia have ATMs that accept some Visa cards, but expect high fees ($5-10 per withdrawal)
Credit cards are accepted at only the most upscale hotels in Mogadishu and almost nowhere in Somaliland.
Money-saving hack: Instead of exchanging all your USD for local currency at once, exchange small amounts daily. Exchange rates at local markets typically improve once sellers recognize you as a return customer. In Hargeisa, a money changer near my hotel improved my rate by almost 8% by my third visit.
Avoiding Scams and Ripoffs
Common money traps to watch for:
- Airport currency exchanges offering terrible rates (exchange only the minimum needed)
- “Special tourist prices” that are 2-3x the local rate
- Counting errors when receiving large amounts of Somaliland shillings
Count your money carefully and don’t be afraid to recount in front of the seller. I once received a stack of 1,000 shilling notes instead of 5,000 notes—an honest mistake that would have cost me 80% of the exchange value!
Safety on a Budget: Not Mutually Exclusive
Safety in Somalia doesn’t necessarily require a massive budget, but it does require smart decision-making.
Region-Specific Security Considerations
Region | Security Level | Budget-Friendly Precautions |
---|---|---|
Somaliland | Relatively Safe | Standard travel precautions; no special security needed |
Puntland | Exercise Caution | Local guide recommended; avoid remote areas |
Southern Somalia | High Risk | Security essential; hotel arrangements safest |
Free Safety Measures That Matter
These cost nothing but significantly improve your safety:
- Register with your embassy (virtually via email if they don’t have a presence)
- Share itinerary and accommodation details with trusted contacts
- Research current conditions using government travel advisories and local sources
- Learn basic Somali phrases for emergencies
- Dress conservatively to respect local customs and avoid attention
- Travel during daylight hours, especially in urban areas
Where to Splurge on Security
Some security expenses are unavoidable in certain regions:
- In Mogadishu, security-vetted taxis ($10-15) are essential rather than attempting public transport
- Secure accommodation in protected zones (budget $70-90/night minimum in Mogadishu)
- Local guide with security connections in unfamiliar areas
I learned this lesson the hard way during my first visit when I tried to save $30 by taking a shared taxi in Mogadishu. My hotel manager physically blocked me from leaving and explained why this was dangerous. That $30 would have been the poorest economy imaginable.
Travel Insurance Reality
Most standard travel insurance doesn’t cover Somalia. Your options are:
- High-risk specialists like Battleface (expensive but comprehensive)
- Regional coverage excluding Somalia but covering medical evacuation from neighboring countries
- Credit card travel protection (check specific exclusions)
I use a combination of specialized coverage for the highest-risk portions of my trip and standard coverage for neighboring countries. This balanced approach saves considerable money while providing essential protection.
Internet and Communication: Staying Connected Affordably
Staying connected in Somalia is surprisingly easy and affordable—if you know how to navigate the options.
Mobile Data: Your Best Option
Somalia’s mobile networks offer some of Africa’s most affordable data packages:
In Somaliland:
- Telesom: The dominant provider with excellent coverage in major cities
- SIM cost: $1 (requires passport registration)
- Data packages: 3GB for $5, 10GB for $10, unlimited packages available
In Mogadishu and southern Somalia:
- Hormuud: Primary provider with good urban coverage
- SIM cost: $2-3 (hotel can assist with registration)
- Data packages: Slightly more expensive—5GB for $10
During my December 2024 visit, I was surprised to find that 4G coverage in Hargeisa was actually faster and more reliable than what I experience in many European cities. Even in Mogadishu, connectivity in the main areas is generally good.
WhatsApp: The Essential App
WhatsApp is absolutely crucial in Somalia:
- Local businesses primarily communicate via WhatsApp
- Hotels prefer booking confirmations through WhatsApp
- Voice calls work reliably even on weaker connections
- Location sharing is essential for meetups and directions
Money-saving tip: Instead of paying for international calls, use WhatsApp’s voice call feature over data—it’s much more economical and widely accepted for business communications in Somalia.
Wi-Fi Availability
Wi-Fi exists but with limitations:
- Most mid-range hotels offer free Wi-Fi, though speed varies significantly
- Few dedicated internet cafés remain, as mobile data has become the norm
- Some restaurants in Hargeisa and Mogadishu offer customer Wi-Fi
The most reliable Wi-Fi I found was at the Mansoor Hotel in Hargeisa and Peace Hotel in Mogadishu. Both investments in superior connectivity to serve their business clients.
Communication Apps and VPNs
A few technical considerations:
- Download a VPN before arrival for security and to access blocked services
- Signal offers more secure communications than WhatsApp if privacy is a concern
- Offline maps (Maps.me or Google Maps offline) are essential as backup
I use ProtonVPN which has worked consistently throughout Somalia on both Wi-Fi and mobile connections.
Cultural Experiences and Interactions on a Budget
Some of Somalia’s richest experiences cost little or nothing, yet provide the deepest connection to this misunderstood country.
Free Cultural Immersion
These experiences cost nothing but time and openness:
- Tea sessions: Accept invitations to join locals for traditional Somali tea. These often turn into hour-long conversations that provide genuine cultural exchange.
- Prayer time observations: Respectfully observing daily prayer rituals offers insight into the central role of Islam in Somali society.
- University visits: Hargeisa University and Mogadishu University welcome visitors and often connect you with English-speaking students eager to practice.
- Camel markets: The livestock markets in both regions are fascinating windows into traditional commerce.
One of my most memorable experiences was being spontaneously invited to a Somali wedding in Hargeisa after meeting the bride’s cousin at a café. The celebration lasted hours, with stunning traditional dances, poetry recitations, and endless food—all for the “cost” of bringing a small gift for the couple.
Language Basics That Open Doors
A few essential Somali phrases have repeatedly transformed my experiences:
- “Iska waran” – How are you?
- “Mahadsanid” – Thank you
- “Nabadey” – Peace (common greeting)
- “Macaane” – Delicious (always appreciated when sampling food)
Attempting even basic Somali immediately changes how locals perceive you—from distant foreigner to respected guest. I’ve received discounts, invitations to homes, and assistance in difficult situations simply by making this effort.
Ethical Photography
Photography in Somalia requires cultural sensitivity:
- Always ask permission before photographing people
- Avoid photographing government buildings, military personnel, or infrastructure
- Respect when permission is denied, especially with women and children
- Consider sharing digital copies with subjects when possible
I keep a small portable printer (Instax Mini) for longer trips, which allows me to give physical photos to people I photograph. This has created meaningful connections, especially in rural areas where printed photos are scarce.
Gift-Giving and Economic Impact
Rather than giving money directly, consider thoughtful alternatives:
- Small business purchases: Buy handcrafts directly from artisans
- Book donations: English-language books for universities and schools
- Hiring local guides: Even when you could navigate independently
- Skill sharing: Offer your own expertise in exchange for experiences
During my last visit, I brought a dozen English novels and reference books requested by a university instructor I’d met on a previous trip. These became part of their English department library, providing lasting value beyond a cash donation.
Conclusion: Your 5-Step Somalia Budget Travel Action Plan
After four trips to Somalia spanning six years, I’ve distilled the essentials of budget travel in this challenging but rewarding destination into an actionable plan:
1. Start in Somaliland
Begin your Somali experience in the more stable, budget-friendly north. Spend at least 5-7 days in Somaliland before considering venturing south. This builds regional understanding, useful contacts, and travel confidence that will serve you throughout your journey.
2. Build a Local Network
Dedicate your first two days to making connections that will save you money and enrich your experience:
- Connect with university students and professors
- Join Somali travel Facebook groups before arrival
- Establish relationships with hotel staff who can connect you to discounted services
- Visit the local tourism office in Hargeisa immediately upon arrival
3. Master the Money Ecosystem
Somalia’s unique financial landscape requires planning:
- Bring sufficient new USD in small denominations
- Set up mobile money access with help from your accommodation
- Identify reliable money changers for the best rates
- Track daily expenses meticulously—costs can escalate quickly in Mogadishu
4. Balance Safety and Budget Strategically
Recognize where to economize and where to spend:
- Never compromise on secure accommodation in high-risk areas
- Pool resources with other travelers for transport and security when possible
- Use free security measures (embassy registration, information sharing, appropriate dress)
- Consider security-cost-sharing with NGO workers and journalists
5. Embrace Slow Travel
Somalia rewards patience and extended stays:
- Negotiate weekly rates for accommodation (often 30-40% less than daily rates)
- Build relationships that lead to free cultural experiences
- Allow buffer days in your schedule for unexpected opportunities
- Consider volunteering a few hours weekly with local organizations to deepen connections
Somalia is not a destination for everyone, but for adventurous travelers willing to look beyond headlines, it offers extraordinary value. The combination of pristine beaches, ancient culture, and unparalleled hospitality creates experiences impossible to find in more conventional destinations. Budget travel here isn’t just about saving money—it’s about engaging more authentically with one of Africa’s most misunderstood regions.
As the Somali proverb says, “Aqoon la’aan waa iftiin la’aan” (Without knowledge, there is no light). May your journey to Somalia bring both knowledge and light in abundance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Somalia safe for budget travelers in 2025?
Safety varies dramatically by region. Somaliland (the northern self-declared republic) is relatively stable and suitable for experienced budget travelers. Mogadishu and southern Somalia require significantly more security precautions and are not recommended for true budget travel. The security situation changes frequently, so check current advisories before planning your trip. I’ve traveled safely through most regions by adapting my approach to each area’s specific challenges.
How much should I budget per day for Somalia?
For Somaliland, budget travelers can manage on $30-50 per day, including basic accommodation ($15-25), meals ($10-15), and local transport ($5-10). For Mogadishu and southern regions, a minimum of $100-120 per day is necessary due to security requirements, with accommodation alone starting around $60-80. My recent 3-week trip (including both regions) averaged $65 per day overall.
Do I need a visa in advance?
For Somaliland, visas are available on arrival at Hargeisa Airport ($60) or from Somaliland’s unofficial representations abroad. For Somalia proper (including Mogadishu), you must obtain an e-visa through the official portal before arrival. The current fee is $70 as of late 2024. Processing typically takes 3-7 business days.
Can I use credit cards or ATMs in Somalia?
Somalia remains predominantly cash-based. A few ATMs in major hotels in Mogadishu accept international cards, but reliability is poor and fees are high. In Somaliland, Dahabshiil Bank has ATMs that sometimes work with international cards. Bring sufficient US dollars in clean, new bills (post-2009) as your primary financial resource. Mobile money systems (Zaad in Somaliland, EVC Plus in the south) are widely used domestically.
What’s the best time of year to visit Somalia?
The most comfortable months are November to February when temperatures are relatively cooler (75-85°F/24-29°C). April to June brings the main rainy season, which can complicate travel, especially on unpaved roads. The shoulder seasons (October and March) offer reasonable weather and slightly lower accommodation rates. I’ve visited in both January and October and found both workable, though January offered more comfortable daytime temperatures.
Do I need special vaccinations or medications?
Yellow fever vaccination is required if arriving from an endemic country. Routine vaccinations should be up-to-date, and hepatitis A/B, typhoid, and polio vaccines are recommended. Malaria is present throughout Somalia, so appropriate prophylaxis is essential. Consult a travel medicine specialist before your trip. I use atovaquone/proguanil (Malarone) for malaria prevention on my trips to Somalia.
What should women travelers know about visiting Somalia?
Somalia is a conservative Muslim society. Women travelers should dress modestly, covering shoulders, chest, and knees at minimum. In most areas, a headscarf is appreciated though not strictly required for foreigners in Somaliland. In Mogadishu and more conservative areas, more covering is advisable. Solo female travelers can visit Somaliland with proper precautions, but should consider traveling with companions in southern regions. Based on conversations with fellow female travelers, harassment is uncommon, but cultural sensitivity is essential.
Can I drink alcohol in Somalia?
Somalia is a strict Muslim country where alcohol is prohibited. There are no legal bars or alcohol sales. A few high-end hotels in Mogadishu may discreetly serve alcohol to foreign guests, but public consumption is illegal and culturally unacceptable. I recommend embracing the excellent local alternatives: spiced Somali tea, fresh fruit juices, and camel milk are cultural experiences in themselves.
How reliable is internet access?
Mobile data is surprisingly good in major cities. In Hargeisa and Mogadishu, 4G coverage is widely available and affordable ($5-10 for 3-10GB). In rural areas, connectivity is limited. Hotel Wi-Fi exists but varies tremendously in quality. I recommend purchasing a local SIM card immediately upon arrival for reliable connectivity. Both Telesom (Somaliland) and Hormuud (south) offer good service to foreigners with passport registration.
What common scams should I watch out for?
The most common issues include inflated “foreigner prices” for services, counterfeit currency (especially larger Somaliland shilling notes), and unofficial “fees” at checkpoints. Always clarify prices before accepting services, count change carefully, and ask locals about appropriate payments at checkpoints. In my experience, outright scams are actually less common than in many popular tourist destinations, but price inflation for foreigners is standard practice.
References
- U.S. Department of State – Somalia Travel Advisory
- UK Foreign Office – Somalia Travel Advice
- Somaliland Tourism Association
- BBC Country Profile – Somalia
- Lonely Planet – Somalia
- Journey Era – Somaliland Travel Guide
- Dangerous Business – Somaliland Travel Guide
- Against the Compass – Somaliland Travel Guide
- UNDP Somalia – Development Reports
- World Nomads – Somalia Safety Guide
- CDC – Health Information for Travelers to Somalia
- XE Currency – Somali Shilling Converter