Why Turkey’s Asian Side Captured My Heart
The first time I crossed the Bosphorus from European Istanbul to the Asian side, I felt like I’d discovered a secret universe. Away from the tourist crowds at Hagia Sophia, I found myself in a world where calls to prayer mixed with the clinking of tea glasses, where locals played backgammon in neighborhood cafés, and where I could wander for hours without hearing a single tourist accent. After seven visits to Turkey spanning nearly a decade, I’ve come to believe that travelers who skip the Asian side of Turkey are missing the country’s soul.
During my most recent trip in early 2023, I watched the sun set over the Bosphorus from Kadıköy, sipping çay (Turkish tea) alongside local university students who warmly corrected my broken Turkish phrases. “Çok güzel,” I attempted (meaning “very beautiful”), to which my new friends laughed and taught me the proper pronunciation. These are the moments that no travel brochure can deliver – and exactly why I’ve crafted this 5-day itinerary focusing exclusively on Turkey’s less-explored Asian treasures.
“Turkey’s Asian side offers the perfect blend of authentic cultural experiences, breathtaking landscapes, and significantly lower prices than its European counterpart. It’s the Turkey that Turks themselves cherish.” – Local proverb: “Anadolu’nun kalbi, Türkiye’nin ruhu” (Anatolia’s heart is Turkey’s soul)
Day 1: Asian Istanbul – The Local Experience
After landing at Istanbul Airport (IST), save money by taking the Marmaray Line directly to the Asian side (30 TL, approximately $3.50) rather than an expensive taxi. I once made the mistake of taking a cab and paid nearly 400 TL ($45) – never again!
Morning: Kadıköy Market Immersion
Start your adventure in vibrant Kadıköy, my favorite neighborhood on the Asian side. As you exit the ferry terminal, the scent of fresh bread and grilled fish will guide you to the famous market streets. The Kadıköy Market is less touristy than the Grand Bazaar, with significantly better prices. Last year, I bought spices here for literally one-third the price of what they cost in tourist areas!
- Çiya Sofrası (Caferağa, Güneşli Bahçe Sk. No:43) – This legendary local spot serves regional dishes from across Anatolia. Order the “günün yemeği” (daily special) for around 85 TL ($10).
- Baylan Pastanesi (Caferağa, Muvakkithane Cd. No:19) – An historic patisserie serving the famous “Kup Griye” dessert since 1923. The first time I tried this layered ice cream confection, I nearly wept with joy.
- Mandabatmaz (Kadıköy Çarşı) – For the richest Turkish coffee you’ll ever taste. Watch how they prepare it using hot sand!
Afternoon: Hidden Architectural Gems
While the European side boasts famous mosques, the Asian side holds architectural treasures without the crowds. The Beylerbeyi Palace along the Bosphorus showcases Ottoman luxury with intricate details that rival the more famous Dolmabahçe Palace, yet tickets cost just 65 TL ($7.50) compared to 300 TL ($35) for Dolmabahçe.
I discovered the magnificent Selimiye Mosque in Üsküdar by pure accident when I got lost walking along the waterfront. Built in 1801, this architectural masterpiece sees barely any tourists despite its incredible dome and peaceful courtyard.
Money-saving insider tip: Purchase the Museum Pass Istanbul on the Asian side at Beylerbeyi Palace where lines are nonexistent. You’ll save both money and hours of waiting compared to buying it at crowded European-side attractions.
Evening: Sunset on the Bosphorus
As the day winds down, head to Moda Sahil Yolu in Kadıköy. This waterfront promenade offers the most spectacular views of Istanbul’s European skyline at sunset. Locals bring blankets and picnics, creating a festive atmosphere that tourists rarely experience.
For dinner, avoid the overpriced tourist traps and dine where locals eat at Çınaraltı Restaurant (Caferağa, Moda Cd. No:196) under ancient sycamore trees. Their grilled sea bass (85 TL/$10) paired with rakı (Turkish anise liquor) is my traditional first-night meal in Istanbul.
Day 2: Princes’ Islands Escape
Morning: Ferry Adventure
From Kadıköy, catch the early ferry (departing at 8:30am) to Büyükada (Big Island), the largest of the Princes’ Islands. The 60-minute journey costs just 40 TL ($4.50) and offers stunning views of Istanbul’s coastline.
On my first visit, I foolishly booked an expensive tour (650 TL/$75) when I could have easily navigated this trip independently. Don’t repeat my mistake!
The ferry terminal can be confusing, so look specifically for Şehir Hatları ferries, which are public and much cheaper than private boats. When boarding, sit on the right side for the best photographs of Istanbul’s receding skyline.
Afternoon: Car-Free Island Exploration
What makes Büyükada magical is the absence of cars – the island is traversed only by bicycles, electric scooters, and horse-drawn carriages (though I recommend avoiding the latter for animal welfare reasons).
Rent a bicycle from shops near the ferry terminal (50 TL/$5.50 for the day) and circle the island at your own pace. The 14km route takes you through pine forests, past Byzantine monasteries, and to secluded beaches.
Visit the hilltop Monastery of St. George, which requires a steep climb but rewards you with panoramic views of the Sea of Marmara. I’ve done this trip five times, and I still discover new hidden coves and pathways each visit.
For lunch, avoid the overpriced harbor restaurants and instead head to Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu on the island’s less-visited southern side. Their fresh meze platter (130 TL/$15) paired with cold Efes beer is perfect after a morning of cycling.
Evening: Return to Asian Istanbul
Catch the 6:15pm ferry back to Kadıköy and head to Bağdat Caddesi, the elegant shopping street often called the “Champs-Élysées of Istanbul.” Unlike touristy İstiklal Avenue, Bağdat Caddesi is where affluent locals shop and dine.
For dinner, I recommend Çiya Sofrası (Caferağa, Güneşli Bahçe Sk. No:43), where each dish tells a story of regional Turkish cuisine. Their “fırın kebabı” (oven kebab) changed my understanding of what Turkish food could be.
Island | Main Attraction | Time Needed | Best For |
---|---|---|---|
Büyükada | St. George Monastery | Full day | Hiking, swimming, history |
Heybeliada | Naval Academy | Half day | Quieter atmosphere, pine forests |
Burgazada | Sait Faik Museum | 3-4 hours | Literary history, fewer tourists |
Kınalıada | Armenian heritage | 2-3 hours | Rocky beaches, closest to mainland |
Day 3: Anatolian Side Road Trip
Morning: Ancient Nicomedia
Rent a car for the day (approximately 650 TL/$75 through Avis or local company RentGo) and drive east to İzmit (ancient Nicomedia), just 90 minutes from Istanbul.
I originally discovered İzmit by accident when my Istanbul tour was canceled due to a holiday. This former Roman capital is now an industrial city, but it holds archaeological treasures that tourists never see, including the remarkably preserved İzmit Archaeological Museum (entrance 30 TL/$3.50).
The star attraction is the partially reconstructed Roman Theater, where excavations continue to this day. On my last visit in 2023, I watched archaeologists uncovering new mosaics – a living archaeological site without any tourist infrastructure or entrance fees.
Afternoon: Sapanca Lake Retreat
Drive 30 minutes further to Lake Sapanca, a serene freshwater lake surrounded by mountains. While wealthy Istanbulites frequent luxury resorts here, you can enjoy the same views for free at public beaches.
For lunch, stop at one of the lakeside restaurants in Sapanca town. I recommend Kıyı Restaurant, where freshwater fish specialties cost around 120 TL ($14) – half what you’d pay for similar quality in Istanbul.
Insider tip: Instead of paying for expensive bottled water, bring empty bottles to fill at one of the many “içme suyu” (drinking water) springs around Sapanca. Locals line up to collect this pure mountain water – it’s a cultural experience and absolutely free!
Evening: Return via the Coastal Road
Take the scenic D100 coastal road back to Istanbul rather than the toll highway (saving about 40 TL/$4.50 in tolls). This route follows the Sea of Marmara shoreline, offering spectacular sunset views.
Stop in Hereke, a small town famous for its handmade carpets since Ottoman times. The Imperial Carpet Factory offers free tours where you can watch master weavers at work – much more authentic than carpet shops targeting tourists.
Return to Istanbul for dinner at Köfteci Yusuf in Üsküdar. Their Inegöl köfte (grilled meatballs) recipe dates back generations and costs just 70 TL ($8) for a full meal.
Day 4: Black Sea Coastal Adventure
Morning: Şile Lighthouse and Beaches
Take bus 139 from Üsküdar to Şile (70 TL/$8 round trip), a charming Black Sea fishing village 70km northeast of Istanbul. During my first visit, I foolishly took a taxi for 400 TL ($45) not realizing the excellent public transportation option!
Climb the iconic Şile Lighthouse (25 TL/$3) for panoramic views of the rugged coastline. Built in 1859, it’s one of the tallest lighthouses in Turkey and offers fantastic photography opportunities.
Şile’s beaches are popular with Istanbul residents but virtually unknown to foreign tourists. Unlike Mediterranean beaches, the Black Sea has a wild, untamed quality with dramatic cliffs and powerful waves – a refreshing alternative to crowded resort areas.
Afternoon: Local Craft Shopping
Şile is famous for its handmade cotton fabric called “Şile bezi.” Unlike tourist souvenirs in Istanbul, these lightweight cotton garments are actually worn by locals, especially in summer.
Visit Şile Evi workshop where you can watch the traditional weaving process and purchase directly from artisans. I bought a beautiful handmade beach cover-up for 120 TL ($14) that would cost triple in tourist areas.
For lunch, follow fishermen to Köşem Restaurant near the harbor. Their “hamsi tava” (fried Black Sea anchovies) for 65 TL ($7.50) are caught daily and prepared simply with cornmeal coating – the way locals prefer.
Evening: Black Sea Sunset
As the day winds down, head to Ocaklı Ada, a small island connected to the mainland by a causeway. This spot offers the most dramatic sunset views over the Black Sea.
Return to Istanbul by evening bus. For dinner, try Kanaat Lokantası in Üsküdar, an institution since 1933. Their “hünkar beğendi” (sultan’s delight) – tender lamb over smoky eggplant purée – costs 95 TL ($11) and rivals versions served in luxury restaurants for three times the price.
Sustainability tip: When visiting beaches, participate in the local “Mavi Bayrak” (Blue Flag) initiative by collecting at least one bag of plastic waste. The Black Sea has significant pollution problems, and responsible tourism makes a genuine difference.
Day 5: Culinary Exploration in Üsküdar
Morning: Breakfast with Locals
Begin your final day in Üsküdar, one of Istanbul’s oldest neighborhoods. For breakfast, avoid tourist spots and head to Tarihi Çınaraltı Çay Bahçesi (Selimiye Mh., Harem İskele Cd. No:2), where Istanbul’s senior citizens gather for morning discussions over endless glasses of tea.
Order a traditional “serpme kahvaltı” (spread breakfast) for 85 TL ($10) – a lavish array of cheeses, olives, honey, clotted cream, and freshly baked bread. The first time I experienced this meal in 2018, I embarrassingly tried to finish everything, not realizing it’s meant for grazing over hours of conversation!
Afternoon: Ancient Religious Sites
Üsküdar contains religious landmarks spanning centuries, yet they receive a fraction of the visitors compared to those in the European side.
Visit Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, designed by the legendary architect Sinan for Suleiman the Magnificent’s daughter. Unlike the Blue Mosque where you’ll queue for entry, here you’ll likely be the only visitor admiring the sunlight filtering through ornate windows.
Nearby, explore the Yeni Valide Complex, which includes a mosque, madrasah, and Ottoman-era public fountain. I once spent a peaceful hour in its courtyard where an elderly imam surprised me by offering impromptu explanations of Islamic architectural elements in limited but enthusiastic English.
Late Afternoon: Turkish Hamam Experience
For an authentic bathing ritual, visit Çinili Hamam (Çavuşdere Cd. No:204), a historical bathhouse dating to 1640. Unlike tourist-oriented hammams in Sultanahmet that charge upwards of 900 TL ($100), this local establishment costs just 250 TL ($29) for the full treatment.
During my first hamam experience in 2017, I made the embarrassing mistake of wearing swimwear (locals use only the small cloth provided). The attendants were gracious about my cultural confusion, and the vigorous scrubbing removed not just dead skin but seemingly years of stress!
Traditional Hamam Etiquette:
- Begin in the sıcaklık (hot room) to open pores (15-20 minutes)
- Proceed to marble platform for scrubbing by an attendant
- Rinse with cool water from copper bowls
- Relax in the soğukluk (cool room) with tea
- Tip your attendant 50-75 TL ($6-9)
Making the Most of Your Turkey Asian Adventure
After exploring Turkey’s Asian treasures for five days, I’ve learned that the magic of this side of the country lies in its authenticity and connection to daily Turkish life. On my first trip, I rushed through neighborhoods trying to see everything. Now I know to slow down, linger in tea gardens, and accept spontaneous invitations from locals.
5-Step Action Plan for Your 2025 Turkey Trip
- Book accommodations in Kadıköy or Üsküdar rather than touristy Sultanahmet – you’ll save at least 30% on hotel rates and experience authentic neighborhood life.
- Purchase an Istanbul Kart immediately upon arrival and load it with 300 TL ($35) – this reloadable card works for all public transportation and offers significant discounts over single tickets.
- Learn basic Turkish phrases like “Teşekkür ederim” (thank you) and “Çok güzel” (very beautiful) – in Asian neighborhoods, even minimal Turkish effort is warmly appreciated.
- Download the BiTaksi app for reliable, metered taxis – it prevents common scams and language barrier issues when you need a cab.
- Bring a large water bottle and refill it at public fountains seen throughout Asian Istanbul – the tap water is perfectly safe and you’ll save money while reducing plastic waste.
Whether you’re wandering through Kadıköy’s vibrant market streets, watching the sunset from Moda, or exploring the peaceful Black Sea coast, Turkey’s Asian side offers experiences that feel discovered rather than delivered. As we say in Turkish, “Yolun açık olsun” – may your path be open!
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to visit Turkey’s Asian side?
Absolutely! In many ways, neighborhoods like Kadıköy and Üsküdar are safer than tourist areas because they’re residential communities where locals live and work. I’ve walked alone at night in these areas numerous times without any concern. Basic precautions apply as in any major city, but violent crime is rare. The biggest risk might be aggressive driving in some areas – be careful crossing streets!
Do I need to cover my head when visiting mosques on the Asian side?
Women should bring a scarf to cover their hair when entering mosques, but the enforcement is typically more relaxed on the Asian side at neighborhood mosques. However, major mosques like Mihrimah Sultan do provide head coverings if needed. For all visitors, modest clothing covering shoulders and knees is expected, and you’ll need to remove shoes before entering prayer areas.
How much Turkish do I need to know to navigate the Asian side?
While English is less commonly spoken than in tourist areas, younger Turks often speak some English, especially in Kadıköy with its university population. Learning basic phrases like greetings, numbers, and food terms will significantly enhance your experience. In my experience, locals appreciate even minimal efforts with the language. The Google Translate app with downloaded Turkish language pack is invaluable.
What’s the best way to get to the Asian side from Istanbul Airport?
The most cost-effective route is taking the M11 metro from the airport to Üsküdar (transfer at Gayrettepe), which costs around 75 TL ($8.50) and takes about 80 minutes. For greater comfort, Havaist buses run to Kadıköy for 120 TL ($14). Taxis are convenient but expensive at approximately 650-800 TL ($75-90) depending on traffic.
Can I use credit cards on the Asian side, or should I carry cash?
Credit cards are widely accepted in established restaurants and shops across the Asian side, but smaller establishments, markets, and street food vendors often require cash. ATMs are abundant, but I recommend carrying at least 800-1000 TL ($90-115) in cash for daily expenses. When using credit cards, choose to pay in Turkish lira rather than your home currency to avoid unfavorable conversion rates.
What’s the best season to visit Turkey’s Asian side?
Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) offer ideal weather with temperatures between 15-25°C (59-77°F) and fewer crowds. Summer (June-August) can be hot and humid with temperatures regularly exceeding 30°C (86°F), though coastal areas like Şile offer relief with sea breezes. Winter (November-March) brings occasional rain and temperatures around 5-12°C (41-54°F), but you’ll have most attractions to yourself and significantly lower prices.
References and Further Reading
- Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism – Üsküdar Guide
- Istanbul Museum Pass Official Website
- Beylerbeyi Palace – Official Tourism Portal
- Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality Transportation Guide
- Şehir Hatları Ferry Schedules and Routes
- All About Turkey – Princes’ Islands Guide
- Culinary Backstreets Istanbul – Food Guides
- The Guide Istanbul – Local Events and Recommendations
- İzmit Archaeological Sites – Cultural Portal
- Go Turkey Tourism – Şile and Black Sea Coast
- Yemek.com – Kadıköy Restaurant Guide (Turkish)
- Istanbul On Foot – Walking Tours and Routes